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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 54, Issue 8 - Dec 2004
Volume 54, Issue 7 - Nov 2004
Volume 54, Issue 6 - Oct 2004
Volume 54, Issue 5 - Aug 2004
Volume 54, Issue 4 - Jul 2004
Volume 54, Issue 3 - May 2004
Volume 54, Issue 2 - Mar 2004
Volume 54, Issue 1 - Jan 2004
Selecting the target year
The Characteristics of the Popular Culture Contemporary Fashion Shows -Focus on Pret-a-Porter collections after the mid of 1990s-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 1~14
This study suggests the popular culture theory as a basic framework to find out the characteristics of contemporary fashion show meeting the popular culture, and describes that the show is the popular culture of this generation. The culture is the way of our life unifying the world at common area of human being. The popular culture is to subdivide it into the public culture that shares aesthetic taste, and to borrow each other and develop it mutually because of the collapse of dichotomous boundary with high quality culture, and to represent the people’s thought and behaviour expanding their areas. The author has examined the characteristics of popular culture of modern fashion show by four collections, that is, commercialism, mass media, political relationship and interaction, etc： Firstly, at the commercialism, the fashion show combines it with other genre organically to do mass production and sales and produces cultural consumption goods supplying a lot of sight-seeing. Secondly, at the mass media, the image of contemporary fashion show has been spread out with mass media such as fashion magazines, cable TV and Internet beyond time and space to produce advertisement effects and makes new fashion and bring democratic culture. Thirdly, at political relationship, the fashion in its peak can make a big stream of wealth, so that it plays important roles under governmental regulations in this era and governments make efforts to support and develop it. Lastly, at interaction, the fashion show shares media functions to let users participate in the program and to exchange information as a feedback to influence each other.
A Study on the Marketing Strategy for Domestic Fashion Multi-shop dealt with Imported Products only(II) - Focusing on Distribution Strategy／Promotion Strategy -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 15~26
The study was done to provide domestic fashion multi-shops with basic Information about the distribution and the promotion strategies through an investigation the marketing strategies for domestic multi-shop dealt with imported product only. Data were collected from Interview with a buyer or a staff of marketing department of Domestic Fashion Multi-shop dealt with Imported Product only. The results were as follows： For the distribution strategies, these fashion multi-shops as chosen were all placed in department stores. Their distribution channels were diverse like road shop, shop in department store and shop under direct management of department store. In case of shop in department store, it was common that the shop paid a definite commission to the department store. But S shop was managed directly by a department store as an advanced buying system that department store bought and sold goods and held themselves responsible for overstock. For the promotion strategies, these fashion multi-shops didn't make a definite budget for advertising and publicity contrary to other one-brands. But they attached importance to visual merchandising (VMD) because they had to harmonized the concept of a shop with various brands. Also they concentrated on seasonal fashion show, management of their customers and personal sales.
An Effect on the Costumes in the Middle Ages of the Culture of Knight from the 11th Century to Middle of the 15th Century
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 27~40
In this thesis, the connectivity between the military culture in the Middle Ages and costumes by researching the effect on the clothing in the Middle Ages of the culture of knight from the 11th century to middle of the 15th century was tried to be recognized. The culture of knight was widely divided into 4 articles - Chivalry, Tournamemt, The equipment of knight, Heraldry - and then researched. The conclusion after researching the influence of the culture of knight upon the clothing in the Middle Age in the above is as follows. Regarding the clothing, the military culture such as the crusader war, armor, and heraldry was popularized over the entire Middle Ages as the military-look style, and regarding the ornament the result of the crusader war caused the introduction of the Eastern civilization and development of the commerce and industry, and also trade, and consequently the ornament became luxurious. Regarding the footwear, when seeing the Gothic shoes, it can be found that it is similar with the knight's shoes made of the metal. As seen in the above, it can be recognized that the culture of knight caused the huge influence upon the whole politics, culture, and society in the Middle Ages as well as upon the costumes.
A Research on the Chinese Color through the Costume of Qing Dynasty
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 41~53
The significant role of colors in fashion design is not enough to emphasize in terms of one of the important design elements and its influences on the behaviors of the people. The purpose of this research is to examine the traditional Chinese colors and its ways of color combinations to appreciate the Chinese culture and its people. The Chinese traditional costume of Ching Dynasty were investigated through historic records, historic nobles, costume accessories and so on. The results of the study were summarized as follows： (1) The Blue was the most favoured color for clothing among men and women during Ching dynasty and various blues in terms of hue, value and intensities were used. (2) The bright Yellow which had been a symbol of Emperor were prohibited being used among people. Though, the late period of Dynasty, the regulation became not to strict and various shades of yellow families were adapted among People. (3) The Red which had been preferred during Ming Dynasty were constantly favoured for the formal wears of auspicious events such as weddings. (4) Dark color groups were loved for the clothing which were used as a ground colors against the flamboyant patterns revealing strong visual effects through value contrast or primary color combinations. (5) The White had a symbol of mourning and there were some intentions to adopt pale color groups such as mint, jade, gray, moon whit,. silver white to make up for white. (6) Contrast color combinations were one of the basic ways of color combination in Chinese traditional costume. Therefore Chinese color combinations has a strong visual effect and easy to draw attention of people by the contrast of the hue, value or intensity of color. (7) Multi-color combinations were another characteristics of Chinese costume in the formal wears which bears many surface designs. The surface decorated with full of motifs, were appreciated by the people expressing their longings and hopes through the auspicious meanings of patterns and striking visual effects of color combinations.
A Study on the Symbolism of Mourning Dress - Focused on Mourning Dress -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 55~62
The ceremonies were roughly categorized into four： coming of age, marriage, funeral and ancestral worship. Among them, the funeral was a representative example to show ancestral worship. As it symbolizes the worship to ancestors, its procedure was complicated and formalized. It was undoubtedly certain that formalized mourning dresses and complicated table setting for sacrificial services to ancestors were burdens. Although what was symbolized by mourning dresses was different depending on the wearers purposes, it was thought that no clothing had such unusual symbolism as mourning dress. When the composition of mourning dress was examined, it was shown that Taoism, family relation of Confucianism or symbolic clothing system of Shamanism were combined. Mourning dress first represented the Confucian idea of ancestral worship. For the composition of clothing in which a shamanistic element was inherent, forms of birds were used to guide the dead soul to the other world. In cutting out mourning dress, opposite concepts of Yin and Yang, and closure and openness were used to show a harmony between heaven and the earth. Male and female were represented through sewing techniques. The period of observing the mourning period depended on the degree of kinship. The degree to which the clothing was loose indicated the degree of sadness and kinship. Load blocks and tear pads indicated the degree of sadness. In considering the above indicators, family relation and filial piety to ancestors had a great effect on the form and details of mourning dress. Shamanistic elements as well as Confucian ones were inherent in mourning dress, which resulted in the combination of Taoism and Confucianism.
A Study of Clothing Design in the Digital Age
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 63~74
This study shows that clothes to be just the same as the real thing can be Produced through the third dimension computer graphics, and then presents that not only the area of fashion design can be expanded in the virtual reality field by doing the simulation of the fashion show, but also the information can be made the real time public ownership and the communication can be fulfilled smoothly. In this study, analyzing the third dimension computer graphic programs to be used much at present, Alias Wavefront Company's Maya software which was the most effective in the clothes simulation and the clothes CAD SGS OptiTex 8.7 which went well substitutive for it were used of them. The conclusions of this study that got through the work manufacture are as follows： The first, if the file manufacturing in the clothes CAD by using the computer was stored, the pattern used 3D simulation was available because it could be summoned in 3D software. The second, if the data of DXF form in Maya program was summoned, they could not be applied by Maya Cloth supported in Nurbs only because they were recognized as the DXF＿layer. So the curve along the outer lines of the pattern was drawn and Maya Cloth was applied to be possible to get the natural silhouette of clothes. The third, when the clothes were manufactured by 3D, if the draping character was applied according to the textile special quality, not only the control of textile's thickness, weight, quality feeling, and silhouette was available, but also the clothes were available to graft the special textile materials. The fourth, the natural motion of model was produced by capturing the actual model's walking action In order to produce the fashion show motion and also the dynamic fashion show was available by the angle of camera, the establishment of lighting, and etc. in the final rendering. The clothes manufactured by 3D are available to change the design by changing the materials, or by adding the details, or by utilizing the special materials on clothes. Therefore, the trial and error following at the clothes manufacture can be reduced. But the elevation of the rendering speed, the price down, the strengthening of personal security, and etc. are required.
A Study on the Design of Functional Playing Costumes - focusing on Female Harpist -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 75~84
Stage costumes perform not only the instrumental but also the expressive functions. The major goal of this study is to develop the functional and aesthetic costume designs for musical players considering the characteristics of instruments. players’ postures. The scope of this study is restricted to the musical costumes for female adult soloists playing the wind and string instruments. This study is composed of theory research, empiricalresearch and manufacturing a real costume. First, theory research contains theory of musical costumes and that of pure musical areas. Concept, characteristics and wearing effects are analysed in theory of musical costumes. Second, designs of instruments and playing postures are analysed in the theory of pure musical areas. Proper and improper designs are compared based on the survey asking the favorite designs of 56 wind and string players. Third, I manufacture a stage costume for a harpist. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, wind and string players think the functionality of costumes more importantly than the esthetic sense. And there are differences in design preferences for different playing postures. Second, string Players basically use arms, fingers and the upper body. Wind players use fingers more than string players and do abdominal breathing. Third, string players think the design of arms and sleeves because of frequent usage of bow and prefer the design without sleeves. On the contrary, wind players think the silhouette importantly because of standing playing posture. Fourth, players don't think that the accessory is not important and want it so long as it doesn't hinder playing. Fifth, shoes plays more important role than costume in case of playing posture with using pedals and moving legs frequently. Lastly, both wind and string players prefer the design with simplicity and comfort most.
A Study on a Phase of Clothing in Korean Proverb
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 85~95
The Purpose of this study was to find a phase of clothing in Korean proverb. The results of the analysis of this research was as follows： In the case of headgear, was expose that symbolize handsomeness, conduct of life, personality that display charm and position which is not usage as only head protection. Upper wear was expressing aspect and person's similarity, and was symbolizing conduct of life by meaning of dress and its ornaments according to a person that dress displays that change. Trousers(bottom wear) was expose that it means aspect or conduct of life(a 4 case, 40％) through site. Overcoat showed that overcoat that is clothes that is symbolizing wearer's situation, aspect and wear most on face because is involved with behavior that is not right in clothes usage is used by standard that foretell personality. Underwear can know that expressed being involved with right behavior, nature by the basic clothes. I was able to know that I express an attitude of a life or a form through shoe, and the accessories won an minor order but that I have a large influence on a character or the appearance of a person. Silk fabrics expresses Position, and hemp cloth expressed by symbol that display ability. Also, silk fabrics had meaning that hint person's background. Dress and its ornaments that is used in proverb by these result can know that have function as symbolic symbol that display Person's nature or situation, aspect that is wearing clothes that is not function as only simple clothes.
A Study on Clothing Names in Sino-Korean Study Books in Choseon Period
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 97~111
To study the clothing names has been one of the research subjects in the history of clothing since the name could be the basic tool to understand the clothing. In the past, the name of clothing were used in Chinese character which is hieroglyphic. Each character of Chinese has special meaning. They had been changed into Korean after Korean characters were invented. During the period when they were changed into Korean, some of them retained the original meaning while others widened the original meaning. Some of them even translated into totally different meaning. Accordingly, it could be a clue to survey the changing process of Chinese names into Korean by analysing the vocabulary in the books published in Choseon dynasty. In this study, the first step is to survey the children's Chinese vocabulary learning material, Hunmongahoe(1527), Sinzeungliuhap(1576) and Ahackpyun(1804). These books were widely used from 16 to 19 centuries. It has been surveyed how the meaning of clothes names has changed and the special features of changed names. The names appeared in these Chinese vocabulary learning books included headgear, footwear, dress, part names of dress, ornaments, color and names of textile. The followings are observed by studying the names appeared in more than two books above： 1. The same Chinese character were translated differently. 2. Recently the meaning of Chinese character has been reduced or changed into new Chinese character. 3. Some of them retained the same meaning but used different character. It has been observed that some clothing names retained the original meaning but others changed the meaning, or translated into different names. It shows that the appropriate meaning of names should be properly selected when we study the history of clothing.
The Sensibility Image and Preference Degree of Pattern which Appeared on Men′s Clothing
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 113~127
This study examined the trend of pattern which appeared throughout men's clothing fashion magazine from 1999 to 2002 and the influence which the demographic characteristic have on the sensibility dimension of pattern and the preference degree of kinds of pattern. The results of study were as follows. 1) The pattern which was used most frequently on recent men's clothing was a length stripe, and the representation technique which was used most frequently on recent men's clothing was the technique of a geometric expression. 2) The pattern which men and women preferred most out of ten kinds of patterns-length stripe, width stripe, oblique stripe, check, square, waterdrop, paisley, flower of style shape, flower of realistic shape, flower of shape-was a length stripe. 3) The sensibility dimension of pattern image was composed of fascination, dignity, daring, gentleness, and reality. 4) Because sensitivity dimension and kinds of pattern were significant according to the distinction of sex, vocation, academic career, income, this study can conclude the demographic characteristic have an influence on sensitivity dimension and kinds of pattern.
A Study of a Fashion Subject Matter Development by the Multiheaded Embroidery Machine
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 129~144
The modems who lives complicated society, the silence which the Orient thought asserts leads and to get comfortable. It is becoming, the like this social atmosphere will in the interest regarding a manual example and the Orient material, the use of the embroidery textile goods is increasing specially. The purpose of this article is to suggest a model for development of machine embroidery fabric material and highly value added apparel industries. The multi-headed embroidery machine where the application scope is wide from the dissertation, we are requested' NaNa company'. The multiheaded embroidery machine uses TAJIMA TMFD-G620 and SUNSTAR SWF-／B-WD(X) 620-100 the embroidery textile uses the silk, the cotton and the synthesis fertile goods etc 24 type, the embroidery thread Maraton thread(viscose rayon 100％) with used the cord. The 8 Korean motives are made on 23 fabrics, 6 of which are full-sized manufactured one-pieces and the other 17 of which are produced to home interior goods such as curtains or fashion accessories like handbags as simulations. Among the products, the pattern-4-1 and the pattern-4-2 are contracted with local fashion industry, and the pattern-1-1～3 are dealing with other companies in Japan. The computerized machine-embroidering and simulation producing of fashion items are available to reduce the cost in making samples and transfer the old labor ＆ toil-centered industry into the new technique ＆ knowledge centered one.
A Visual-perceptive Study on Closed and Open Forms of Ethnic Looks since the 1980s
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 4, 2004, Pages 145~156
This study is regarding closed and open forms, which have relatively high recognition among visual perception phenomena in costumes. In particular, this study reviewed closeness and openness of ethnic look, which is a representative open costume. Closed form can be summarized as simple and clear silhouette, conspicuous differentiation from the background, simple construction of the costume and colors with low brightness and clearness. It Is modern, functional, rational and modest. On the other hand, open form can be summarized as complicated and inconspicuous edge line, complicated inner shape and colors with high brightness, high clearness and vividness. It includes concepts of pleasure, entertainment, joy, eroticism, rebel and resistance. Modern costumes have been simplified for a long time and they have functional and closed characteristics in their shape, structure and form. On the other hand, modern open form costumes are usually found in sub-cultural styles such as punk, hippie, kitsch and vintage, and some ethnic looks. Following is a summary of the characteristics of open form shown in the ethnic look. 1. The shape, structure of costumes, hair accessories, lace, ruffle and ornaments are complicated and irregular. 2. The silhouette is inconspicuous because of ambiguity between backgrounds and ABC (Apparel-Body-Construct) or the use of see-through materials. 3. It makes complicated visual shapes because it does not have a single type but is composed of various clothing items together. 4. It gives complex feelings by matching various colors or more than two different fabrics. 5. It looks like the open type because of the complex patterns shown in the costumes.