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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 54, Issue 8 - Dec 2004
Volume 54, Issue 7 - Nov 2004
Volume 54, Issue 6 - Oct 2004
Volume 54, Issue 5 - Aug 2004
Volume 54, Issue 4 - Jul 2004
Volume 54, Issue 3 - May 2004
Volume 54, Issue 2 - Mar 2004
Volume 54, Issue 1 - Jan 2004
Selecting the target year
Assessing the Impact of Internal Reference Price on Clothing Purchase Process
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 1~12
Price is one of the most important components of marketing mix. For consumers, price is an always-existing cue and definite evaluation criteria. However, information on price is meaningful only when it is perceived. Sources of price perception can be the actual retail price at the selling point, the internal reference price expected by consumers for a certain clothing product, and the external reference price advertised by marketer such as the price before mark-down. The purpose of this study was to investigate the influence of internal reference price on consumers' purchasing process of clothing products. A questionnaire including clothing stimuli was developed in order to assess consumers' internal reference price level. Usable data from 680 adult female urban residents were used for data analysis. Results indicated that consumers with relatively lower internal reference price tend to react low-price focused external reference price and use discount stores and unit price promotions. Consumers with relatively higher internal reference price advertisement are likely to have higher level of education, tend to infer price information to higher quality or prestige of products, and purchase clothing with regular retail price or coupons.
A Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Italian Fashion - Through the Artworks of Versace and Armani -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 13~23
To date, Italian fashion rans the top even its rise is far behind Paris and New York. The purpose of this study is to analyze and compare the aesthetic characteristics of the italian fashion through two representative designers who contributed to italian fashion. Italy had unique industrial system and craftsmanship from the history and sense of the beauty and the uniqueness from the culture. After the World War II, Italy started to produce elegant sportswears influenced by the progressive manufacturing techniques and practical culture of America. Italian fashion of 'easy elegance' is spearheaded by Vesace and Armani. The aesthetic characteristics of Italian fashion which are shown in the artworks of them are as follows. First, the characteristics of Versace dated from southern sensibility are sensualism, expressionism, historicism. 1) Sensualism: tight silhouette, overexposure, glamorous form, brilliant color, fabric showing femininity, gaudy accessaries 2) Expressionism: brilliant print and color, trimmings and accessaries 3) Historicism: form and motifs that are shown in the historical costume Second, the characteristics of Armani succeeded from northern tailoring are purism, functionalism, and multi-culturism. 1) Purism: clean lines, architectural and geometric forms, natural body line, neutral tones, luxurious fabric 2) Functionalism: functional form, neutral tone, natural fabrics 3) Multi-culturism: design and motif inferred from ethnic costume As such. competition between two different groups made it possible that Italian fashion occupies a special place in the international fashion system.
A Study on the Characteristics of Rainbow Colors and Rainbow Fashion Images
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 25~40
The rainbow has been considered as a perfect representative of color harmony in nature. In this study rainbow's colors include seven spectral colors and changeable colors according to observational angle. This study performed a bibliographical inquiry into rainbow colors and the survey research for classification of rainbow color images in fashion design. First, a bibliographical inquiry includes the definition of rainbow colors, physical formation principles of the rainbow, and its aesthetical attributes and symbolism. Second, this survey classifies rainbow color images in fashion design. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The rainbow was the religious and symbolic object before 17th century, and after that period, the rainbow became an aesthetical object. The main symbolic meanings are similar in eastern and western culture: temporary bridge between two world, divine nature, hope/beauty/richness, war/ death/flood/drought. 2. This survey shows that 6 main factors of rainbow color images in fashion design are 'vigorous', 'colorful'. 'fairy', 'fresh', 'mysterious', 'brilliant'. Rainbow color image in fashion design shows past and futuristic image at the same time. The purpose of this study is to systematized the images theoretical bases which are applied to color expression and of rainbow colors and to find out the development about rainbow theme by designers.
Aesthetic Characteristics of the Ballerina Look Presented in Modern Fashion - Focused on the Design Since 1990 -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 41~52
The objective of this study is to contemplate both the formation and the aesthetic characteristics of the ballerina look represented in modern fashion by analyzing a ballet costume. The results of this study could be summarized as the following: the ballerina look is formed by ballet costume itself with being stick to or exposing human body line, or by casual dress mixed with a ballet costume; the materials consist of both the major materials for a ballet costume such as silk, chiffon, tulle, lace, or organza, and the usual materials for casual dress: a variety of color such as transparent, pastel etc. is also used with typically used colors like white and black: decoration is basically composed of ruffle, drape, gather and the distinctive accessory like toe shoes, ribbon tape, ankle warmer is used to show a feature of a ballet costume These formative characteristics of the ballerina look presented in modern fashion implies illusory, pure, and hybridity. traits. First, illusion of the ballerina look not only implicitly expresses a womans wish to experience a ballerina's fantastic world, but also recreates woman herself into a ballerina on a stage. Second, purity of the ballerina look makes design look feminine and smooth, which is expressed with girlish taste through materials and colors. Third, hybridity of the ballerina look suggests a standard of a new trend, which is active style, by adding comfortableness and flexibleness to romantic femininity.
A Study of North Korea′s Traditional Dress in Cultual Aspect
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 53~64
North Korea's traditional dress(chosun-ot) has developed as follows: right after the liberation(l945). North Korea tried to get rid of Japanese style and empty formalities and vanity, so chosun-ot became simple and practical. And from the Korean war to 1950's North Korea had tried to establish through a restoration of the war and chosun-ot is more easy and simple. For 1960's People became to be interested in their clothes owing to a stable socialistic economy and politics, and tried new style due to the influence of the Korea-Japanese. Since 1972 North Korea has claimed a dictational socialist organization, and constructed its own culture. Therefore North Korea emphasized its own clothing habit. and its garment style developed differently from South Korea. Since 1984 North Korea tried to change its policy dramatically. and chosun-ot has changed to a modern and various style. But on the other hand, traditional style of chosun-ot was more emphasized. North Korea especially tried to succeed its traditional style. it pursued only partial changes by sticking to its original style. And its color to bright and magnificent one with additional ornaments. Because it tried to change the style within the limits of its tradition, traditional dress has a quite fragmentary and flat appearance.
Development of Textile Design with a Rice-cake Pattern
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 65~76
At the global times, each country is developing various designs, symbolizing its own country's original images. So significant and continual developments must be made in the aspect of the national identity and image promotion as well as for producing added value by commercializing the designs in the manner of discriminating against cultures. So this study is trying develop the textile design that express the beauty of Korean traditional pattern. For textile design, it was selected a rice-cake pattern and developed a textile pattern design by using computer design program of adobe illustrator 10.0.
A Study on Actual Conditions of Glove Size Standards - Focused on KS and ISO Sizing System-
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 77~90
The purpose of this study was to provide basic information requisite in the new sizing system for gloves. KS glove standards' size dimensions, size designation and labeling systems were analyzed. Also, KS glove standards' control sizes were compared to the anthropometric data of 824 Korean adults taken in the previous study. As well, the ISO hand size system was also compared to the anthropometric data of the previous study according to frequency tables of hand length and hand circumference. The size dimensions showed differences among KS standards and there was no size designation and labeling systems existed in KS standards. Among KS glove size systems, protective rubber gloves for radioactive contamination and surgical rubber gloves' size which followed ISO system were accurately indicate the hand size of the person a glove is intended to fit. ISO glove sizing system comprised the control dimensions of hand length and hand circumference. The coverage of ISO size A was 84.8% which was highest among ISO size A. B, C. And in hand circumference 178, 191, 203, 216mm showed the frequencies above 3% and in hand length 167, 175. 183, 191, 199mm showed the frequencies above 3%.
A Study on the 1950s and 1960s T-Shirts Design′s Influence of Actor′s Image
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 91~100
The purpose of this study is to evaluate the influence of T-shirt as a movie costume on the modem mass fashion. The way of study is to analyze the changes of men's image with T-shirt as Hollywood actors costume in 50's and 60's. The costumes create the characters with meanings and symbols moreover they lead fashion as well as promoting artistic value of films. At the end of the 19th century, this shirt learnt the ropes in the U.S. Navy well before it won the hearts of sportsmen and workers alike, with its twin virtues of comforts and hygiene. When American soldiers returned home after World War II showing their T-shirts in the sweltering heat of the Tropics, their shirts were as heroic as they were. Furthermore the new stars of Hollywood, going by such names as Marlon Brando and James Dean, gave the T-shirt its rebel cachet and showed the whole world. Be it tom open on Marlon Brando's torso in Elia Kazan's 'A Streetcar Named Desire', or peeping out dazzlingly white from under James Dean's red jacket in 'Rebel Without a Cause', the T-shirt flaunted its sexuality and emanated the sweet smell or revolt. It would be the banner of rebellion for a whole generation. The T-shirt had finally found its way into the history of fashion and was there to stay.d was there to stay.
The Aesthtic Consciousness of Voluminous Enlargement in the Western Costume - From Ancient to the Modern Times -
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 101~117
Opposed to following the contours of the human body, the voluminous enlargement in costume, which characterizes the distinguished enlargement in space rather than the contour of human body, mean the enlargement aspect involving the vertical protrusion and the expansion of shape and volume as well as the extension of length. The costume enlargement as a different method of expression is a symbol showing a meaning of something and an aesthetic expression containing man's will. This voluminous enlargement of costume, as an aesthetic expression, has different formative characteristicsand immanent meanings according to ideals and thoughts as well as social and cultural background of each age Accordingly, the aesthetic consciousness also differaccording to the change of the times. To study the aesthetic consciousness of costume's voluminous enlargement, focous had been given to milieus that shaw comparatively conspicuous voluminous enlargement Periods that have been subjected to this study include costumes of the ancient Egypt, the Gothic period in the Middle age, the Renaissance, the Baroque Rococo of the recent times, and the modern era (Empire, Romantic, Art Nouveau. etc) With focus given to the principle of design obtained through this study were used to analyze the aesthetic characteristics, Futhermore, based on the spirit of the times and the socio-cultural symbolism, research on immanent meanings, as supported by objectivity and universal validity, was also made, the enlargement beauty of costume had been placed under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness, the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To Conclude, the aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costumes in history was found to have following characteristics: (l) Metaphorical (2) Unlooked-for irregularity (3) feeling of satis faction driven by self-enlargement (4) Dignified sublimity (5) Symbol of wealth and class (6) Ceremonial dignity (7) Tradition of the nobility (8) Aesthetic ornament (9) Ideal contour of the body
An Analysis of Internal Meaning Expressed Oversize Fashion of 1980′s
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 119~130
The purpose of this study was to analyze the characteristics of 1980s' oversize fashion. Especially in 1980s, there were some characteristics that the leading style did not exist as the other decades, but instead of that, various styles coexisted and the existing traditional rule of fashion was destroyed. On the basis of such background, the moulding nature resident in oversize fashion is considered and analyzed as follows. Firstly, 1980s is the time of power suit booming and through such clothes, women disclosed their consciousness that they want to be equal with men. Secondly, In contrast to that a shoulder pad was the trademark of 1980s' clothes, the social aspect that Japanese designers' clothes of layered look and them of grunge look coexisted is directly expressed through these oversize clothes. Thirdly, In 1980s of the time that people's interest to health risen, sports wear was developed to be everyday wear and furthermore, it had variously influences on high fashion so that developed to big look. Fourthly, when it comes to 1980s' clothes, the atmosphere of society denying apparent boundary between sex at that time was resident in androgynous look and the folklore image of sexless style by their appearance in oversize fashion. What is this situation that the style of the past time is popular in the 21st century even such intentional spirit of challenge already passed？ Maybe for women, the one way of expressing themselves is through their clothes, and for such reason, it can be considered that the social meaning resident in 1980s' clothes is re-examined in the present age.
A Study on the Image Perception and Preferences of the Color of Male′s Jacket, Shirt, and Necktie
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 131~140
The objectives of this study were to investigate the effect of the color of jacket. dress shirt, necktie. and perceiver's gender on image perceptions of male, and to examine how clothing color preferences varies according to perceiver's gender and age. The stimuli of 8 pictures of male and the semantic differential scale were used to evaluate image perception. Subjects were 192 males and females in Seoul. The colors of jacket gave significant influences on perception of potency. elegance, preference, and manliness. The colors of dress shirt gave a significant influence on perception of manliness, the necktie's colors gave influences on elegance and visibility. Perceiver's gender did not give significant influences on the image perception. Visibility had an interaction effect by the colors of jacket and dress shirt. Potency and preference evaluation had interaction effects by the colors of jacket. dress shirt. and necktie. White dress shirt had positive effects on the perception of potency and preference in the case of matching with dark blue jacket and red necktie, and blue shirt had a positive effect on the perception of potency and preference in matching with dark blue jacket and blue necktie. The preference of dark grey suit and black shirt showed significant differences according to gender. Dark blue suit, white shirt, and blue shirt had significant differences according to the age group.
Natural Dyeing of Fabrics with a Dyebath Extracted from C. Umshiu Mandarin Peel
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 6, 2004, Pages 141~148
This study examines the dyeability of fabrics in relation to dyeing temperature, time, concentration, and the number of repeated dyeings. For this study, at first we extracted natural dyes from the peel of C.umshiu mandarin, which is fast as a dye and considered as recycling agricultural wastes. Additionally, it represents the image of Jeju Island. Then, we dyed cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics with the extracted dyes. The findings of this study are as follows. 1) Dyed cotton, wool, silk and nylon fabrics with the extract of C.umshiu mandarin peel are generally yellow. 2) Wool, nylon, silk, and cotton, in this order, are of good dyeability; Wool fabrics have the highest dyeability and cotton fabrics have the lowest. The dyeabilty of cotton fabrics was not improved even after dyeing in different conditions. 3) Colorfastness with washing, rubbing and perspiration are all good, while colorfastness with light is poor. 4) Higher dyeing concentration makes better dyeability. 5) Dyeability is enhanced as the dyeing temperature increases, while the dyeability of silk and nylon is relatively good even at low temperatures. 6) Looking at dyeability according to dyeing time, the longer the dyeing time, the better the dyeablility. Sixty minutes of dyeing time is appropriate to dye fabrics. 7) With an increase in the number of repeated dyeings, increased dyeability is obtaihed.