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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 54, Issue 8 - Dec 2004
Volume 54, Issue 7 - Nov 2004
Volume 54, Issue 6 - Oct 2004
Volume 54, Issue 5 - Aug 2004
Volume 54, Issue 4 - Jul 2004
Volume 54, Issue 3 - May 2004
Volume 54, Issue 2 - Mar 2004
Volume 54, Issue 1 - Jan 2004
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Comparison of Direct Anthropometric Measurement between Dress Form and the Human Body -Focused on the 18-24 Year-Old Target Brands md 25-29 Year-Old Target Brands-
Song Hwa-Kyung ; Choi Hei-Sun ; Lee Kyung-Mi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 1~14
The purpose of this study is to provide specific size data for developing a standard dress form for Korean Females between the ages of 18 and 29. Differences in sizes between dress forms used in 18-24 year-old target brands and 25-29 year-old target brands and the human body were ascertained through direct anthropometric measurements. In the 18-24 year-old target brands. 83.0-83.8cm is suitable for the bust circumference of the dress form, while in the 25-29 year-old target brands, 85.0-86.0cm is suitable. The waist circumferences of most dress forms are similar except for the Japanese C form, and there is no difference between the two groups. For hip circumference in the 18-24 year-old target brands, about 90.0cm is suitable while the 25-29 year-old target brands use additional dress forms of 91.0-92.0cm. The center front length, neck tc waist length, and front interscye breadth is 1cm shorter and the back interscye breadth is 1cm longer than indicated by the 1997 National Anthropometric Survey data.
Study on Adolescents′ Clothing Behavior, Purchase Evaluative Criteria, and Information Source According to the use of Internet
Jang Nam-Kyung ; Ko Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 15~26
The internet is one of the modern facilities that has been diffused very rapidly in recent years and tremendously influenced on our life. Although the adolescents are major users of internet, the literature in clothing and textile area has not addressed the relationships between adolescents' internet use and clothing behavior, The purpose of this study was to examine the differences of adolescents clothing behavior. purchase evaluative criteria, and information source according to the use of internet. Descriptive statistics, t test, Analysis of Variance (ANOVA), and Duncan test were employed to analyze the data collected from the convenience sample of 572 middle and high school students in Gyeongnam, Korea. The use of internet was partially related to the adolescents' clothing behaviors. purchase evaluative criteria. and information source. Also, it was observed that the frequency and purpose of fashion website tended to be related more than the amount and purpose of internet did. Marketing implications from the results were suggested.
18th Century Costume Malting for Korean Theatre I -Focused on the habit a la francaise-
Choe Ji-Eun ; Yun Sun-Mi ; Yun Bo-Yeun ; Bae Soo-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 27~40
The purpose of this paper is to make it easy to reproduce the Pattern and sewing technique of men's coat in 18th century. which are modified in order to be made readily available in Korean theatre costume. The investigation was performed in three steps. 1st, The papers and records about development and change of men's coats were reviewed. End; The whole process of the way how to make a typical 18th century men's coats were sewn. 3rd ; The modification or revision into the more simplified pattern using by CAD system and sewing technique were suggested in detail. The size of the pattern in the original one, which we chose for this research, was generally small. with the side line being moved back a little. Moreover, arm movements were severely restricted because of the small arm-hole. The problems of original pattern were corrected by making both front and back pattern snug and side line being moved to the front, and making arm-hole wider. In the sewing technique, the simple way how to use of Padding, inter-linings and linings and to create the most noticeable figure of 18th century men's coat. This article may help theatre costume production in Korean performing art.
Charaeteristics of Women′s Fashion in the 20th Century Based on the Threefold Structure of Semiotics
Kim Eun-Kyoung ; Kim Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 41~54
This study purposed to apply function form content, the three concepts that have been discussed by many philosophers since ancient times, to fashion design. Specific research goals are : first, to define fashion design based on the three concepts : and second, to examine how each of the three concepts function-oriented, form-oriented and content-oriented design have been expressed in women's fashion in the
century. For these purposes. the author considered Morris' semiotics, which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, reviewed previous researches in design area, and applied the findings to fashion design. According to the result of applying the threefold structure of semiotics. which is the theoretical background of the three concepts, the pragmatic dimension of fashion design comprehends all functional rules related to the use of dress such as body motion and protection, health and safety. air flow and durability, and its syntactic dimension comprehend all the formal elements of visual design such as the structure, shape, line, color and material of dress. The semantic dimension of fashion design includes the symbolic meanings of dress expressed by emotion, sentiment and images. The three dimensions exist interdependently with one another. According to the result of considering the characteristics of the three concepts in the scope of women's fashion in the
century. function-oriented design is characterized by practicality and simplicity, and has been expressed as the fashion of functionalism in the 1920s, that of minimalism in the 1960s, and the basic style from 1970s to 1980s, 1990s and the present. Form-oriented design has pursued aestheticism, putting stress upon form, and has been expressed with organic shapes imitating patterns found in nature in the 1950s and with optical art fashion in the 1960s. Content-oriented design attaches importance to transmission of delicate meanings related to the mental world of human beings, and is represented with symbolic forms. Such a characteristic has been expressed in fashion in the early 20th century influenced by surrealism and, with various types of design breaking established forms as well as metaphors and humors that characterize design in the late 20th century.
A Study on the Dyeing Method of the Dot-Patterned Costumes on the Mural Paintings of Goguryeo
Yang Kyung-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 55~62
Research into the ancient dyeing and weaving culture is of critical importance to the fact that they constitute an integral part of the Korean costume. Due to the absence of the originals reflecting ancient costume cultures, it is difficult to figure out what the dyeing and weaving culture was like in ancient times. Because of limited visual materials available from the wall paintings of ancient tombs, studies conducted so far concerning the costume culture for the Goguryeo have focused on visual elements such as shape, structure, and type. As a result, research into ancient Korean dyeing and weaving cultures hasn't been properly made. Thanks to the presence of both some dyeing fabric originals from Goguryeo's neighboring countries and some visual materials like the wall paintings of the Goguryeo, it may be possible to obtain some clues to the dyeing and weaving culture. The dotted Pattern costumes were selected such as Muyongchong, No. 1 Jangcheon Tomb, Gakjeochong, Samsilchong, Ssangyeongchong, Susanri Tomb. According to a book titled ‘Hanwon’, the Goguryeo people manufactured fabrics in such a way that resist-dyed spots produced elaborate patterns over the purple fabric. It can be safely said that such dot patterns were produced by means of dyeing rather than weaving, because identical patterns aren’t well produced by means of painting and embroidery. Considering Goguryeo’s natural features, the dot patterns mentioned in historical literatures are thought to have been produced using animal’s skin. However, there is highest possibility that the dot Patterns were Produced using tie-resist dyeing or wax-resist dyeing techniques. With respect to the dyeing and weaving culture for the Goguryeo, one must refer to neighboring countries’ dyeing and weaving environments, given that the Goguryeo had engaged substantial cultural exchanges with China.
A Study of the Make-up Aesthetic Characteristics in Techno-Cyber Fashion
Chung Kwi-Sook ; Cho Kyoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 63~78
The purpose of this study examines the characteristics of the Techno-Cyber fashion in modern fashion, and especially, how the make-up in the Techno-Cyber fashion is expressed artistically, and finally how much the make-up has its aesthetic value and significance. This study has its meaning in studying the relationship between the Techno-Cyber fashion and the make-up. Further more, the study has its significance in that it is possible to consider the interaction of the make-up by the fashion trend. The way of the study is to analyze its features that are shown in the documents of the inside and outside of the country. the study precedent, the technical journal, and the fashion picture. And also the study refers to the related contents in the searching for internet. The aesthetic characteristics of the expressed make-up is shown with the various aesthetic styles, as follows : First, the future-oriented characteristics is shown as the expression of the metallic make-up that emphasizes the glitter and glossy texture, and of the transparent make-up that emphasizes the simplicity of the body. Second, the surrealistic characteristics is expressed to the collage make-up that expresses the unexpected character with the introduction of the special materials and the position changing and the graphic make-up that destroys the standardized form. Third, the anti-cultural characteristics is expressed to the Cyber-Punk make-up that expresses the destructive and challenging image. Finally, the compromise characteristics is shown in the Ethno make-up combined the concept of the ethnic with the high technology and the Androgynous make-up which destroys the bounds of the sex.
Topographic Variations of the Seasonal Skin Color -A Study for the Map of the Skin Color 1-
Park Myung-Hee ; Kim Kyung-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 79~90
In this study we tried to find the skin color of Koreans according to the change of seasons, and to the degree of make-up used by men and women. in order to furnish foundation data that could be used in the cosmetics and clothes industries. The skin color was measured with Minolta's Chrome Meter CR-200 in seven parts of the body with Munsell's hue, value, chroma. The difference in skin color in men and women's groups, and the difference in skin color of each group in March and in September were treated with SPSS's Anova and t-test. 1. In both seasons. March and September, a big difference could be observed between the two groups (men and women's). The body was more yellowish than the face. The men's group had a reddish skin color than the women's groups. In all groups we could observe a big difference in color between seasons, and in March, the skin was more reddish whereas in September, it became more yellowish. 2. As for the value, both in March and in September, the hairline was darkest, and the lightest areas were the jaw and the inner arm which showed a similar value. The group of women who put on make-up had the highest value, whereas the men's group showed the lowest result in value. We suppose it to be due to the fact that Putting on make-up prevented the melanin pigmentation by blocking the UV rays. 3. We could observe the highest value in chrome in the chin area both in March and in September, and there was no significant change. There was a difference in men and women's groups, but not a significant one within the women's groups.
An Analysis of Previous Researches on Clothing Image and Make-up Image
Lee Hyun-Jung ; Kim Mi-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 91~106
The purpose of this study was to review the previous researches, analyze the clothing image, the make-up image and compare the analyses of clothing image and make-up image. The previous researches of clothing image and make-up image were reviewed in 6 kinds of Journal. The results of previous research review and analysis were followed as : Measuring mean of image are used to similarly that semantic differential technique and summated rating technique. Attention to proposed researcher abstraction image in make-up image, but there is problem that this hard to explain objectivity of image abstraction. There are a lot of occasions that 4 or 5 image factors were extracted by factor analysis. The make-up image researches that presented image stimulus were more than study that do not present. Image words were classified which were compiled words have similar sub image. Grace, activeness, lively. unique, modernity attractive, feminine. sexy and ripeness clothing images were classified factors. which were representative clothing image. Elegance, Sophisticate. romantic, natural, modern and youthfulness make-up image for factor were representative make-up image factors. However the problems were found that some representative image factor included the sub images which were different from some factor image. Compared with representation image words, same image words were used to not agree what clothing image and make-up image. Standardization of word should be made that show that clothing image and make-up image.
A Study on the Female Adolescents′ Dissatisfaction Factors and Preferred Images of Underwear -Focused on 13-18 Aged Female Adolescents in Busan-
Choi Eun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 107~120
In this study. with the discovery of adolescents' dissatisfaction factors and preferred images of underwear, the Potentiality of adolescents' underwear market was illuminated. For the purpose of this study, focused group interviews were performed to develop a questionnaires. And data was collected from 309 adolescents female consumer in the age of 13-18 living in busan. The fellowing are the results from the study. First. the female adolescents' dissatisfaction with underwear was analyzed into seven factors. such as buying decision, deformation after laundring, feeling from putting on, price/product variety, the lack of effective design considering body shape, inconvenience for activity and aesthetics. And degree of dissatisfaction was significant different among groups classified by consumer's level of product involvement and consumer's age. Second, the female adolescents' preferred images of underwear are gorgeous/elegant, simple/plain, pure & innocent/modest. active and lovely. From these results, it can be concluded that adolescents' desires of underwear product are different from adults'. Managerial Implications are provided for adolescents' underwear market.
A Study on the Artistic Character of Textile Design of the Wiener Werkstaette
Lim Young-Ja ; Choi Og-Su ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 121~134
Wiener Werkstaette(workshop) established in 1903 was an artistic handicraft working group, the central figure of which was an architecture, J. Hoffman. Especially its textile design part established in 1910 produced good results. The textile design part of Wiener Werkstaette took total artwork (Gesamtkunstwerke), which Pursued artistic work in all visual parts of life, as a central concept of their work and tried to insert the artistic creativity into the textile design. Regarding the influence relationship between Wiener Werkstaette textile design and formative art, it was influenced by the geometric tendency of C.R. Mackintosh and the style and motive of Japanese art. From 1910's, bright, vivid and cheerful designs were mass-produced by uniquely using various motives, techniques and colors. The formative significance of Wiener Werkstaette textile design are as follows. Firstly, the pattern includes both rational and sensual elements. Secondly, the aesthetic patterns of Wiener Werkstaette include formative elements anticipating the modernism. The leading artistic sense like this played role of catalyzer through which the golden age of artistic decoration, art deco, came. The significance of the textile was made aware through clothes design . The clothes design made with Wiener Werkstaette textile conveyed message as art to everyone and provided the elite of society supporting them with Proud that they are fashion leader ahead of times and have artistic sense. Wiener Werkstaette textile design like this played big role as an instrument for realizing the total artwork by attaining the new artistic formative fruits.
The Study on Drag Queen′s and Drag King′s Fashion
Chung Sehui ; Yang Sook-Hi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 135~150
The purpose of this research was intended to investigate drag queens' and drag kings' gender identity not only as a comic and desexualized drag borrowing external characteristics of the opposite sex but also as the subject visualizing and performing' the third sex'. It also aimed to examine formative aesthetic characteristics and aesthetical value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion and to confirm the functions of drag queen's and drag kins's fashion to establish, visualize and Perform the discordant sex. For this process, research steps were as follows : 1. Understanding drag, drag queen and drag king in social, psychological context as well as in gender context. 2. Finding visualized forms which drag performance interchange with mass media 3. Analyzing similarities and differences between drag queen's fashion and drag king's fashion. 4. Examining the aesthetical characteristics and the value of drag queen's and drag king's fashion. The results of characteristics of drag queen's fashion could be categorized into stereotype, mimicry, kitch, inconsistency and commercialism. And the characteristics of drag king's fashion could be divided into reality, self-consciousness, mimicry, inconsistency, subversion and multiplicity. Drag queens create plausible impressions of feminity through the use of wigs, dresses, jewelry, makeup, hormones and through &role Playing&. Similarly drag kings produce a plausible masculinity taking gay male aesthetic using suits, crotch stuffers, facial hair, and greased hair. Male and female impersonation produce very different notions of gender performance for male and female embodiment. Drag kings' performance of masculinity demands authentic property of bodies so rather nonperformative, while drag queens' performance of femininity depends on more visible and theatrical fashion.
The Aesthtics Consciousness of Voluminous Enlargement in the Western Costume - In the 20th Century -
Sung Kang-Sook ; Lee Soon-Hong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 7, 2004, Pages 151~164
This Studies on 20th century fashion was carried out according to the classification of the times as made up Belle Epoque, New Look, Big Look, and Body-Consciousness. Aside from research in literatures, research into 20th fashion also include the analysis of photo had been taken from various collection. The enlargement beauty of costume had been place under the aesthetic category and, by interpreting the analogies of presented in aesthetic consciousness. the true nature of the voluminous enlargement in costume had been traced. To conclude, this study finds there are between the aesthetic characteristic differences in the aesthetic consciousness of the costumes in history and the present-day fashion. The aesthetic consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the present-day was found to have the following characteristic ; (1) History-oriented tradition (2) Metaphorica autonomous (3) Freedom of breaking with restriction (4) Dismantling the irregularity (5) Hedonistic play instinct (6) Psychological compensation (7) Sexual sensuality (8) Ideal of the times (9) Aesthetic ornament (10) Feeling of satisfaction through self-enlargement. From list above. metaphorical sensuality, aesthetic ornament and the feeling of satisfaction driven by Self-Enlargement are the same characteristics found in the aesthetics consciousness of the voluminous enlargement of the costume In history in that they are the aesthetic consciousness above time and space. It is metaphorical sensuality which transform woman's body in to distorted images as influenced by both capitalism and materialism in the last 20 years. These are represented by the sadomasochistic and fetish images as the woman's metaphorical voluminous enlargement is apparently becoming more positive, radical and obscene especially in terms of expression.