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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 54, Issue 8 - Dec 2004
Volume 54, Issue 7 - Nov 2004
Volume 54, Issue 6 - Oct 2004
Volume 54, Issue 5 - Aug 2004
Volume 54, Issue 4 - Jul 2004
Volume 54, Issue 3 - May 2004
Volume 54, Issue 2 - Mar 2004
Volume 54, Issue 1 - Jan 2004
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Measurement and Shape of Lower Body of Sportmen
Lee Hyun-Min ; Kim Soo-A ; Choi Hei-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 1~14
The aim of this study is to provide fundamental data on the development of ready-to-wear clothing appropriate for the lower body types of male students who play sports in college. The study was conducted by means of targeting 151 male sports majors between
years of age. Characteristics of the respondents were ascertained by means of questionnaires and an evaluation of a total of 36 lower body features. The results of the study are as follows. 1. A comparison of anthropometric measurements with the National Anthropometric Survey of Korea (1997) revealed that the main characteristics of the lower somatotypes of male sports college students are large circumferences and developed muscles of the lower body. 2. Sports were classified into the following five categories : soccer, bodybuilding, wrestling, judo, and taekwondo. In particular, bodybuilding students demonstrated a somatotype with an increased circumference, depth, and width of the thigh and lower body. 3. Somatotypes were classified into 3 types by means of a cluster analysis employing S factors. Type 1 somatotype exhibits a large circumference in the lower body. Type 2 is a lower somatotype of a middle size. Finally, Type 3 encompasses a smaller group in weight and circumference with a developed calf and ankle. 4. Each group was evaluated using a discriminatory analysis as a check to see if the groups had been discriminated with accuracy. The total accuracy rate was
A Study In the Preference of Tone on Tone Coloration in Traditional Korean Dress
Kang Kyung-Ja ; Paeng Suk-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 15~26
The purpose of this research was to compare the preference of tone on tone coloration of traditional Korean dress by Korean and American women college students. The respondents were asked to evaluate 48 stimuli of the traditional Korean skirt and jacket with different tone of color. It could be supposed that the different evaluation were caused by their different cultural backgrounds. The results of research can be summarized as follows. As to the red colors, Korean students preferred vivid and light tone coloration, and disliked dull and dark tone coloration, the same tone coloration. but American students preferred usually the same tone coloration and preferred coloration of 4 tone skirts and vivid jacket, dull and dark tone coloration. As to the yellow colors, Korean students preferred dull and dark tone coloration and disliked the same tone coloration. American students preferred vivid and light tone coloration and disliked dull tone coloration as dull jacket and skirt. As to the green colors, Korean students preferred dull and dark tone coloration and disliked the same tone coloration. American students preferred dull and dark tone coloration and preferred the same tone coloration.
A Study on the Mending Work Based on the Excavated Costume of Jang Heung Lim's
Ahn Myung-Sook ; Lee Mee-Sik ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 27~34
Jang Heung Lim's is a nephew's wife of Kim Duk Ryung, who had been served as a general of Chosun dynasty. When her Tomb was removed to another places there were excavated some articles such as six Korean traditional costume, Korean socks, Korean shoes (Mituri) and so on. The unearthed costume was designated as a monentous folk materials, No.112, and placed on Gwangju folklore museum. At that time, the mending work in the lost part of costume was not implemented. Only an act of textile conservation was worked. In the article, we go through the mending principles and mending methods in damaged parts of costume. First, the mending principles on the damaged costume are as follows : (1) minimize the repaired parts, (2) mend the only damaged parts, (3) use the same color and cloth as that of original ones, (4) use the appropriated stitching method (5) act the fixed framework in case of missing a outer cloth. Second, the mending method related to the damaged part are as follows : (1) the repairing method in the bodice and sleeve part of costume, (2) the repairing method in the hem of steeve, (3) the repairing method in the collar of costume, (4) the repairing method in the armpit part of costume, (5) the repairing method in the connecting parts between one and another width of Korean traditional long skirt. With this article, we wish that the repairing method in the cultural costume will be developed scientifically and specified efficiently
A Study on Avatar's Fashion Marketing Strategies of Casual Wear
Jang Seung-Hee ; Lee Sun-Jae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 35~48
This thesis researches consumers' behaviors in Purchasing avatar fashion products depending on their motives and point of reference as the avatar fashion marketing is conducted. Also, it explores the correlation between avatar's fashion products and the point of reference by which consumers actually purchase casual wear. The results were as follows: First, Avatar's fashion product purchasing motivation is done through four classified dimensions, conformity, differentiation, fashionability, and substitution. The standard of Avatar's fashion product choice was classified by the symbol (Product name recognition) and two dimensions of aesthetics. Second. the more valued the aesthetic component of Avatar's fashion product the greater effect on the order the dimensions used in correlation in this case being substitution, differentiation, conformity, and fashionability. Should the consumer place greater value on the Product symbol the dimension order is affected in order by fashionability, conformity, and differentiation. Third, fashionability was a stronger consideration for women as opposed to men in terms of demographical feature. whereas symbol (Product recognition) was of greater importance to higher income people. Last, when aesthetics is considered to buy Avatar's fashion products it is favorably comparable to other casual wear lines. In other words, symbol is considered to buy casual's, it brings to the same result when buying Avatar's. Avatar's fashion product was great tool to research new casual wear line because of approving by the correlation to each other.
A Photomontage Expression and an Effect in Fashion Illustration
Kwon Ji-Young ; Yoo Young-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 49~58
The purpose of this study is to develop a Photomontage expression in order to express a characteristic personality and creativity of artists of effectively in fashion illustration. The results of this study were as follows : 1) Because of a fashion and a human body were the major subjects in fashion illustration, human body transformation and composition between a human body and heterogeneous objects by photomontage appeared with a lot of works. 2) Photomontage appeared with a parody in a truth recurrence differ from a visual art, a parody seemed to be a humor with recurrence image of the original and it appeared with the general public image and it is effective in message delivery. 3) It was a stopped screen. but photomontage was expressed through overlapping and reiteration was characteristic, and it appeared with movement. a direction, a speed and rhythm effectively. 4) One screen of general chapter was only to express limited meaning, but after screen of a lot of chapter, it was able to express that was borrowed and reconstructive with a lot of contents or different contents are more than before. 5) It is changed, and composited images have a multiple point of time, and it extend a space-time limit, visual limit and an expression enabled a multidimensional space-time. Moreover, photomontage neglects unique sincerity and fact of a photo by development and utilization of computer graphic. and it can get a screen effect to spread in the virtual world as abstraction and hyper-reality. Therefore, if various photomontage expression apply to fashion illustration works, it can overcome a limit of a visual expression. and it is able to become an important way for expanding a filed of expression and enhancement of a practical function gradually in fashion illustration
Investigations into the Causes of Wardrobe Pveferene/Dispreference through Open-ended Response Questionnaire
Kim Saehee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 59~74
The Purposes of this study are to investigate consumers' causes of clothing preference and dispreference separately, and to get 'real' descriptions about that causes using an open-ended response questionnaire. The sample was composed of 81 undergraduate students. Subjects were asked to select their preferred clothing and disprefered clothing respectively among wardrobes they have and to describe the causes of that preference/dispreference. The data was collected through an open-ended response questionnaire and analyzed using content analysis. The system for content analysis was divided into the view Point of image, clothing itself, wearer's physical characteristics, wearing situation, others' response, wearer's values, wearer's consciousness, and purchase process. Image was the primary cause that raised clothing preference, and clothing itself, wearer's physical characteristic, wearing situation, others' response, wearer's consciousness, wearer's values, and purchase process followed. In audition. wearer's physical characteristic was the primary cause that raised clothing dispreference. and image, clothing itself. wearer's consciousness, wearer's values. wearing situation, purchase process, and others' response followed. Finally, the framework for the causes of clothing preference/dispreference was developed.
An Analysis of the Denim Clothing Considered from the Contemporary Culture
Lee Hyo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 75~86
This study aims at considering and analyzing the stature of denim clothing as an ornament as well ai how aesthetic meaning and human being's mental side indwell in the development of denims. which will be proceeded in the future, from the view of contemporary culture of dressing. It is found that the stylishness expressed through denim clothing is formed on the basis of the cultures of party, drawing and disorganization, and the result of the study was as follows. Firstly, the culture of party became the source of for decoration of denim clothing, and denim clothing more glamorize women as a party-look which makes the most use of its advantage to be comfortable and able to display in various ways with splendid artificial jewelry, patchwork, dyed pattern which is elaborately embroidered. Secondly, Such culture of drawing is applied to denim clothing so that denims are expressed to make people feel more human being's warmth as being free from the existing stereotype and formality. Thirdly, the most outstanding feature of denim clothing showed in the culture of disorganization is to make the most use of vintage style as it is. This reflects an image of the culture of disorganization under postmodernism, which is free from the traditional conception of the existing dressing by destroying the original form, in the way of slashing, making a hole and tearing. That is, people can sufficiently express not only free sense of release based on postmodernism by wearing denim clothing, but also human being's intrinsic desire for restoration of humanism or human warmth with splendid decoration or various techniques such as handicraft. It can be recognized these features as the reasons, that make denim clothing place themselves as an original fashion item, by giving denim clothing technical decoration in recent years.
The Types and Characteristics of Korean Traditional Wool Fabrics
Jang Hyun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 87~100
This study is to understand the types and characteristics of wool fabrics of the Korea. It classifies the types of wool fabrics whose name can be found in the documents by their weaving methods and it researches their characteristics by type, time, usage, and pattern. In Wool fabric of the ancient age were there compound weaving fabric, such as Gyesoo. which is made with embroidery method, Gyegum, which is made with embroidery in gold threads, as well as general fabric, such as plain-weaved Gal, twill-weaved Sagal, gauze-weaved Mosa, Mora, etc. There were also various weaving methods, such pile-weaved Yung, tapestry-weaved Tabdung, or Guyoo, or Dahm, felt-weaved Jeon, etc. It was found in documents that wool fabric such as Gye, Jeon, Dahm were produced in Korea and China. In case of Korea, wool fabric was enormously developed in Koguryo, Shilla, Balhai, United Shilla. Koryo era. Particularly in Koguryo and Balhai, the stock-farming and hunting were the main parts of their occupation. In Koryo era, the weaving technique of wool fabric had made great development. The wool fabric was used not only in clothing but also in official hats, rugs. wall-tapestries, etc.
A Study of Present Circumstance of Uniform Design for Korean Restaurant Employees in Hotels
Kim Eun-Jung ; Kang Soon-Che ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 101~112
The purpose of this study was to survey the present circumstance of uniform's design and to suggest a design for employees who work for Korean restaurants in Hotels. The subject of study are 10 restaurants which are located in the first class hotels in seoul. And the period of research were 2 months between November, 2003 and December, 2003. The result of research was analyzed by various methods - which consider the frequency, percentage, T-test, crosstabs, and one-way ANOVA. The results are as follows:
of subject adopt a general style which is not traditional style and
of subject do a Han-Bok or casual Han-Bok which is traditional style. 2. About satisfaction of uniforms,
of people who is wearing general style has been satisfying their uniform. And
of people who is wearing traditional style has only been satisfying. 3. People prefer uniform that is made of wrinkle free fabrics and has pockets. In shape of design, they want that ankle-length of trousers, 7/8 sleeves's jackets with waist line-length, and narrow ends. They prefer that a coat has a knob button and there is a zipper in a skirt.
A Study on Fabrics and Pattern of the Excavated Costume During
Century in Joseon Period
Yim Hyun-Joo ; Cho Hyo-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 113~128
This study examined textiles used for ancient costumes of the
century in Joseon period, focusing on fabric types and patterns of the costumes from tombs. The purpose of this study was focused on investigating the relationship between fabrics and social backgrounds, especially change in using fabrics through the war from Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. Since the war must have had an effect on the life of people's. The result of the study is that silk occupies
of all textiles, and cotton, linen follow The weaving method of silk was primarily Plain and satin weaves. However the use of twill, gauze, and double weave, that had led weaving methods of silk during the Koryo Period, were considerably decreased in Joseon Period. Types excavated fabrics in the
century Joseon period can be said various. Of this, silk was the most remarkable one till Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592, when the ratio of patterned silk dramatically decreased. Contrarily, the ratio of cotton and plain fabric increased rapidly in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592. It is supposed that the result is largely due to unusual condition of the war time. After the war, it is estimated that use of pattened fabric as well as silk was decreased. Patterns of textile fabrics in
century were various. In result of surveying a trend of increment and decrement, it is known that the ratio of patterned textile fabrics decreased dramatically in Hidyoshi's Invasion of Korea in 1592 and Manchu war of 1636. Tendency of textile use by social Position is more notable. It is appeared that a lot of silk fabrics were used in High hierarchy. The excavated remain and ratio of silk were the highest in Kyonggi Province including Seoul.
Anti-decoration Culture in Contenaporary Japanese Fashion
Chae Keum-Seok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 129~146
The Purpose of this study is to search the characteristics of aesthetic sense from the spiritual root of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings inside contemporary Japanese fashion. This study considered contemporary Japanese fashion design from 1970 to 2000 to figure out the anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japanese anti-decoration culture. 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the anti-decoration culture 3. finding aesthetically the inside meaning of anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion. The conclusion on this study is as the followings. Anti-decoration culture has three aesthetic ideology. First, faintful aesthetics implies the aesthetic ideologies of Wabi, Sabi from Heian period and it appears the aesthetic sense to be natural beauty. simplicity, minimalism and temperance. Second, ambivalence aesthetics is based on nothingness and has the characteristic of multivocal and variableness without biased view. Third. playful aesthetics has the meaning of humorous. witty and mischievous which is the basic factor of Japanese formative arts. The aesthetic range of this study are the beauty of simplicity. poverty, incompletion, vagueness and humor. First, beauty of simplicity is composed of minimal lines and area through strict temperance and elimination. Second, beauty of poverty came from the aesthetic concept of Wabi which means honorable poverty and plainness. Third, beauty of incompletion means emptiness which is within the range of possibility. Forth, beauty of vagueness could be explained as incorporeal, colorlessness and voiceless. Fifth, Okashi which was the middle ages in Japan, shows the vein of humor in anti-decoration culture. As a result, anti-decoration culture does not mean the opposite of decoration culture, but accomplishes extreme artificial beauty by strict temperance and elimination. Also it is concerned as intentional poverty of decorative effect.
A Study on the Characteristics of Grotesque in Contemporary Fashion -Focused on since the 1990's-
Nam Mi-Hyun ; Park Myung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 54, issue 8, 2004, Pages 147~162
The purpose of this study is to investigate the characteristics of Grotesque in Contemporary Fashion. The study selected the 1990's or after fashion material by the material of both
collection and haute couture collection based on Europe. These days, the characteristics of grotesque have been categorized into four groups based on the theory of representative scholars of the Post Modernism era. The results are as follows.
The devilism creates shocking and destructive cruelty and fear by using frightening object and mysterious and devilish motif which symbolize the death of fashion
Hatred produces physical destroy of human body, anatomical expression inside human body, cruelty by naked sex expression, pains, cruel treatment, disillusion and unpleasantness, which have been caused by the disturbance and ideological confrontation of the society, and is said to be a kind of self-confession against dislike and fear of the disclosure of human existence.
Playfulness distorts and exaggerates clothes and human body forms, and produces abnormality and mystery because of vague sex identity. The playfulness of fashion can open fixed and closed world and lead it flexibly.
Heterogeneity is divided into both primitiveness and virtuality The primitiveness distorts or transforms human body through the human body decoration of primitive race, and expresses a grotesque form combining human being and other animals. It gives a question to the existence of alienated and suppressed life through the world. in which everything is mixed and not separated. The virtuality introduces not only cyborg form combining human being and machines but also state of the art technology factors, so that it emphasizes non-mechanical and non-human grotesque images.