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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 55, Issue 8 - Dec 2005
Volume 55, Issue 7 - Nov 2005
Volume 55, Issue 6 - Sep 2005
Volume 55, Issue 5 - Aug 2005
Volume 55, Issue 4 - Jul 2005
Volume 55, Issue 3 - May 2005
Volume 55, Issue 2 - Mar 2005
Volume 55, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Romantic Image in Modern Fashion
Kim Young-Hyun ; Yang Chieu-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 1~12
The modern society which is going through the big turbulence of civilization experiences the lost of humanity and the phenomenon that the standard of our thoughts, like those for good and evil, truth and false is not clear anymore as the technology is being improved. This makes us miss the past when everything is simple and the standards are very clear and being attracted by the metaphorical culture symbolizing something from the past, like memories of youth, fantasies, fairy tales or myths and we are now having a great interest in the joy of life and the affluent life. Influenced by this kind of tendency in modern society, the minimalism, which had the great influence in the nineties, went out of fashion and at last the romantic susceptibility seems to be the trend forming the major mood of the late 20th century - the early 21st century. This study focus is: (1) the theoretical aspects of romantic images such as the concept, the historical tendency and the character are considered. (2) the variety and multiplicity of the romantic images is discussed after the romantic image is classified into four types of retro character, natural character, ethnic character, erotic character according to major trends in our modern. The purpose of this study is to understand the romantic images in modern fashion, by analyzing the fashion trends together with the various features of romantic images.
Pop Art-Inspired Fashion
Yim Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 13~24
Throughout the history of fashion and fashion collections, fashion design has been influenced by fine arts. Philosophy and concept of fine arts has been inspiration on the development of fashion design which brings on the close interrelation between fine arts and modern fashion. In order to analyze the affect of fine arts such as Pop art on fashion this study inquires into new perspective that considers different social contexts on the premise that acknowledges the essential difference between the genre of fine arts and design. This study researches the influence of Pop art which has been inspiration on fashion designers since the birth in the 1960s and often appears in recent fashion trends. In view of the results achieved in this study, Pop art-inspired fashion does not concern the aesthetic contemplation of everyday life in western society anonymously as in Pop art but deals with pop art as new ideas in a way that adopts images randomly from designer's convenience which is equivalent to the conception of pastiche. In addition, it was inferred that Peter Pan syndrome exert influence as a mental process and Kidult trend operate on Pop art-inspired fashion as a social phenomenon. On the basis of the theoretical background, the formative features in Pop art-inspired fashion from Spring/Summer 2000 to Spring/Summer 2004 collection has been analyzed. The results fall on the following four categories; those are the use of Pop color which resembles the Hard-edge technique in Pop art, direct appropriation of Pop art such as Andy Warhol and Roy Lichitenstein's works on clothes and accessories, adaptation of Pop art's subject using brand names of mass products or icons in mass culture as design motives, and application of representation method in Pop art such as Andy Warhol's silk screen techniques or Tom Wesselman's composition of pictures.
A Study on the Casual Wear Design based on the Image of the Modernized Korean Costume
Park Young-Seon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 25~42
Costume is a formative art expressed by active human unlike the field of other living formativeness, and an expression of social actions based on a style of culture in a period. Therefore, costume has a deep connection with a mode of living and is recognized as a 'culture for living', and is more characteristic culture than all metaphysical cultures including architecture, craft, painting, and sculpture. Therefore, it expresses wearer's status or social standing, and furthermore, ideas and values of the times with aesthetic features in their form, color, materials, and pattern, so it is expressed as a mirror reflecting the phases of the times as. Korean costume had been dressed until the period of the Joseon Dynasty without a great change and started to be simplified in a simple style on the grounds of inconvenience in behaviors with the opening of an interchange of Western culture in the civilized period. And, this movement had been continued and Korean costume had been applied as an everyday dress under the name of 'Reformed Korean Costume'. Since the middle phase of 1980s, it aroused many people's interests with the introduction of designs focused on activity and convenience. In 1990's, many people had taken a growing interest in Korean costume with development of various designs keeping pace with the internationalization period and Korean Costume had been revitalized under the name of 'The Modernized Korean Costume'. And, since the 21st century, the advanced communication and full-scaled import of Western fashion have made the introduction of many fashion information in the world into Korea, affected greatly the fashion market, led consumers' sensitivity on a trend to be increased. Therefore, a design accepting a trend 'The Modernized Korean Costume' with fashions has risen. Second, this study is an attempt to suggest a revitalization method of domestic casual Korean costume brands by developing and suggesting competitive and highly value-added products with connection of practicality, variety, and highly sensitive fashion styles. For theoretical study, domestic and foreign literatures, academic journals, professional monthly magazines, and newspapers were examined. And, a process of change and features of the Korean fashion since the civilization period, and concept, features and images of casual Korean costume were analyzed, On the basis of analyzing image, features, and consumers' preference of the modernized Korean costume, a design development plan was established and 10 suits of costume were designed and made.
Study on the Characteristics of Modernistic Space formed in Fashion
Kim Hye-Young ; Kim Yoo-Yeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 43~58
The objective of the study is to understand the characteristics of modernistic spatial design and, based on the understanding, to interpret fashion in terms of its spatial relationship with society, culture and human body, thereby looking into unique spatial characteristics fashion has. The main results of this study include : First, the rational space emphasizes geometric symmetry and harmony among each of design elements and is expressed by pursuing a perfect formative beauty that indicates an eternal formal beauty of a physical space. In addition, functional beauty is also pursued, making clothing convenient for activities. Second, the abstract space is characterized as a kind of purity by emphasizing simple patterns and colors and materials of purity for clothing, and it is sometimes expressed as being extremely abstract so that human body can be shown to be distorted. Third, for the uniform and neutral space, mass-production and production at home was made possible with clothing of simple patterns and of standard. In addition, it showed a tendency to become blurred in gender distinction for clothing with women wearing men's clothing, or borrowing design elements from men's clothing. Forth, the space as means of domination and control was shown to be segmented based on place, function and purpose. In addition, control on physical beauty was shown by promoting slim figures that are suited for lineal silhouette of clothing and circumstantial restriction on clothing occurred during war, serving to limit the styles of and purchase of clothing.
The Style of Romanticism on Fashion(II)
Lee Kyung-Ah ; Chun Hei-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 59~72
The purpose of this study is to understand how 19th Century's romanticism fashion is expressed in modern fashion and to investigate their relationship. The materials for study of Post-modern fashion after the 1990s are collected and analyzed from
. The characteristics of romanticism such as sensuality, ornamentation, exoticism and mingler, which were demonstrated in the previous study, are analyzed as follows in the modern fashion.
Sensuality was represented by exaggerating the human body with silhouette of past romantic fashion, making the human body mysterious with see-through material including romantic patterns and ornaments, and emphasizing human body line using thin drape-like materials.
Ornamentation was created by combining skills brought from the past with newly developed techniques and materials so that it provides gorgeousness.
Exoticism was expressed in more diverse exotic patterns, colors, accessories and details because of accelerated internationalization.
Mingler was achieved by using materials which does not seem to be suitable for romanticism, and mixing of contrastive or heterogeneous patterns and materials. It was caused by the scientific development and trend of respecting diversity. Romanticism increases the diversity and possibility of new point of views in fashion, It also shows the desires to seek inner peace adopting images of different periods and culture.
A Study on a Special Lifestyle and Population of Golf
Lee Sun-Jae ; Je Eun-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 73~85
According to a rise in leisure time thanks to a five-day workweek system, the population of golf tends to rise day by day as exercise not extreme and doing together with nature, and as a sport with high concentration degree, by virtue of people who have an interest in health care and who strive to enjoy a leisure life. This study targeted the whole male and female golfers who reside in the areas of Seoul and Gyeonggi-do and are now playing golf, carried out sampling, and finally used 485 sheets for analyzing data. The study results were as follows; First, as a result of analyzing the whole lifestyle propensity depending on golfers' gender, it was shown that, as a result of making it type by factor, a male golfer was classified into shopping intention, fashion intention, family intention and tradition intention, and a female golfer was divided into shopping intention, fashion intention, family intention and man-and-woman equality intention. Second, as a result of analyzing a characteristic of gender depending on the standard of selecting goods, it showed the difference between genders as for the standard of selecting goods in case of purchasing golfwear, and it showed the difference in style/design, physique fitness, wearing of a famous golfer, convenience of laundry and management, and functionality, and male golfers were shown to select after seeing the clothes which a famous golfer did wear, compared to female golfers. Also, it could be seen that there was difference depending on the standard of selecting goods and the purchasing propensity in case of buying golfwear.
Lifestyle of Male College Students and their Preference of Casual Wear Style
Bae Hye-Jin ; Kang Yun-Jung ; Kim Dae-Ok ; Chung Ihn-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 86~100
The purpose of this study was to investigate lifestyle of male college students and their preference of casual wear style. A questionnaire consisted of 60 lifestyle items, 1 casual wear style-preference question and demographic variables was developed. Data were collected from questionnaires distributed to male college students of 7 universities located in the Daegu
Gyeongbuk area during August 2003. After eliminating incomplete questionnaires, 303 were analyzed by descriptive statistics, factor analysis, cluster analysis, one-way ANOVA, and
. As a result of factor analysis on lifestyle items, 8 factors were determined: consumption and fashion orientation, future preparation, social concern, a wide range of thought and experience, health orientation, independent spirit, masculinity, and family orientation. 4 groups were identified on the basis of these 8 factors and named as active pragmatic group, liberal empirical group, prospective self-supporting group, and social accommodative group. Their component ratio were
respectively. The most preferred casual wear style by male college students was determined as basic casual wear, followed by adult casual wear, fashionable casual wear, and sporty casual wear. Other than the most preferred style, basic casual wear, by every group, the preference of casual wear styles differed among 4 lifestyle groups.
The Aesthetics on the Breast Design in Fashion
Nam Hoo-Nam ; Geum Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 101~112
One of the curiosities harbored most by anthropologists may be why women are so different from men physically. One of such differences must be the breast. Female animals do not have such a swollen breast even when they nurse their young. We can find many Western garments highlighting the breast, but in Korea the tradition has been that the breast should not be highlighted. It was because the large breast was deemed useful that Western people appreciated it highly. In general, it is conceived that to ancient Westerners' eyes, the nursing function of the breast was very mysterious, because the food supplies were insufficient. Although the size of a breast does not affect its nursing function, Westerners may have thought that it did. To the contrary, in the societies with rich agricultural products, the breast was not much emphasized as the reproductive organs. Since people are more and more concerned about their body and the breast or one of the body parts characterizing the femininity is regarded as an important element of design, it may well be significant to research into the breast designs for development of the fashion design. With such basic conceptions in mind, this study was aimed at reviewing the artworks featuring women's breast and their historical background and thereupon, analyzing the aesthetic values of the breast-featuring designs by dividing them into four categories in large.
A Study on the Development of Jeogori's Structure and Changes of its Form -Focused on the Era of the Three Kingdoms to United Shilla Era
Chae Keum-Seok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 113~128
To find our own individuality, there must be an active study on jeogori which is an unexplored field. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to consider artistic beauty and predominance of jeogori and recognize it as a precious culture, and also encourage interest about traditions. The range of this study is ancient times to Chosun dynasty, and in this study which will be the first part, the range is till the era of the Three Kingdoms. The study about jeogori is based on mural paintings of Goguryeo burial mounds, clay dolls and remains during Shilla, Beakjae, and United-shilla era. The contents of this study is 1. research the origin of jeogori's detail structures and changes of the form, 2. analyze the form and structure of the jeogori in each era, and therefore 3. find the predominance of Goguryeo costume by considering functional and design aspects. Therefore the conclusion of this study about the era of the Three Kingdoms are First, jeogori of the three kingdom era were developed from ancient times caftan style which Korea, China and Japan wore all together. Second, the structure of the jeogori during the Three Kingdom are ryeongeum, gil, somae and seon. Third, there is a special line that starts from the neckline and ends at the hem line which should be called ryeongeum in my opinion. Forth, while researching Goguryeo murals there were both left and right sided open jeogori. therefore, I would like to set up a new theory that during the ancient times to Three Kingdom era, not did China's clothing effected the Korean costume but the costume in east asia shared their forms all together.
Study on the Folding Screen Painting of the Shosoin[정창원], A Beauty under the Tree[조모입여병풍]
Lee Soon-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 129~138
There has been a lot of debate between scholars around the folding screen painting, A Beauty under the Tree[조모입여병풍], a collection of Shosoin, Japan. Even though it is preserved in Japan, its distinguished Chinese feature made many scholars to think it might be made in China and be transmitted to Japan. However, the inspection of the material during
has revealed an important fact, that is, the feather used in this screen painting belonged to Japanese bird feather. Moreover, a great amount of documents written in Tenbyo(천평승보, 8th century) period, which was thought to be used as the ground material of this painting. Therefore we can get many evidences saying that this painting was made in japan. In a basic sense, I stand on this side just because it has more evidences. However, we must be careful to make a final conclusion. Especially on the precious things like this painting screen, we must take whole considerations as possible as we can. First of all, we must consider whether Japan could have ability to make this. Second, there could be other possibility that Japanese repair the original one with their feathers or papers. In order to prove this, study on other pieces including painting screens should be done. I just suggest an objective international discussion. Lastly, I can find the common feature between the pieces of Shosoin and the ones of United Shilla, which could be influenced by same impact, the Silk road trade in a broad sense.
The Image Evaluation and Preference of the Campus Wear of College Males and Females
Hwang Mi-Sun ; Lee Myoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 139~150
The purpose of this study was to find out differences of image evaluation according to perceiver's gender and clothing style, and to investigate the clothing preference according to the style of campus wear. Subjects were 340 college males and females in Seoul. The image of campus wear was divided into four dimensions: neatness, polishing, potency, and activity. Gender had significant influences on the perception of neatness, polishing, and potency. Males perceived the campus wear to be neater, more polished and potent than females. There were significant differences in evaluating neatness, polishing, potency, and activity according to campus wear style. The sweatshirt was estimated low in polishing and potency but high in activity. The T-shirt
short pants was estimated low in polishing and neatness but high in activity. The jumper was rated high in activity, and pants suit high in neatness, polishing, and potency, but it was estimated low in activity. The skirt suit was rated high in neatness and low in activity. The knit cardigan was perceived as polished image. College students preferred knit cardigan, one-piece dress, jumper, and pants suit, however, T-shirt
short pants was comparatively less preferred. Males estimated the knit cardigan to be more favorable than females. Characteristics of clothing image which influenced on preference of campus wear were different between males and females.
A Study on the Mythological Image expressed Modern Fashion
Yang Sook-Hi ; Yang Hee-young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 1, 2005, Pages 151~164
In the modern popular culture, a significant code is not the truth itself but the seeming truth. To fulfill this function, it is a mythology that has a transcendental power to eliminate any doubt and mystery. That is to say, cultural uniqueness is understood as an identical thing through mass communication, and people perceive it as a similar cultural community. In this process, mythology form and accumulate the matrix of mythological meaning by eliminating the difference between the reality and the illusion. Such a matrix forces a meaningless and unconditional truth and practice without any criticism and reconsideration. This paper tries to extract art and cultural characteristics of mythological image through examining the relationship among mythological image, history, and ideology. For this aim, we make use of Roland Barthes' signs and Daniel Boorstin's image as a basic analytical tool. After that we examine the characteristics of mythological image appeared in modern cultural discourses and the relationship between mythological image and modern popular culture. Furthermore, we consider the mythological image expressed in modern fashion, which has the nature of commodity aesthetics.