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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 55, Issue 8 - Dec 2005
Volume 55, Issue 7 - Nov 2005
Volume 55, Issue 6 - Sep 2005
Volume 55, Issue 5 - Aug 2005
Volume 55, Issue 4 - Jul 2005
Volume 55, Issue 3 - May 2005
Volume 55, Issue 2 - Mar 2005
Volume 55, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
The Development about Fashion Trend Reflection in a Dmestic and foreign Silver Brand
Chung Sham-Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 1~17
The realistic plan to establish a silver market in the clothing industries has not taken concrete shape, although the interest in the establishment of a silver market targeting the aged as a new custom group Is gradually Increasing because the rapid development of science and medical technology in the 20th century has led to an extension of lift and improvement of living conditions. The specialized business which produces and sells the clothing for the elderly is of small number and most of the clothes for the elderly are manufactured and sold by the companies for women's clothing in which change the size or length of the original works rather than reflect the bodily features of the elderly. The findings indicated that domestic brands showed the coordinated concept of a suit of jacket and slacks or skirts while the clothes were formed with a variety of coordinations centering around single article in the U.S brands. But, there was no difference in the use of natural materials centering around cotton and silk etc. and in the use of embroidery, lace and decorative details between the two countries. The knit brands of knit suit style in Korea were formed with the items focused on pull over and cardigan twin set, while the U.S brands were mainly formed with the design of knit suit style. The domestic knit brands were mostly developed with complicated patterns and gorgeous colors, while most of the U.S. brands were presenting a single or two tone color suit style and evening one-piece dress with a simple and modern style. The sporty casual brands of sporty casual style in Korea had a variety of colors and patterns focused on function and comfort for diverse leisure activities and daily life, while the U.S brands were established to present a variety of styles with the items of single article because they had a separate brand for casual even though it was not a exclusive brand for the elderly This study has a meaning in the presentation of the design idea considering the bodily shape of the elderly compared to the ready-to-wear considering the size alone, by examining the characteristics of bodice according to the physical change of the elderly women, analyzing the design of madam brand and the style of the ready-to-wear, researching the general circumstances of the brand for the elderly women, and highlighting the necessity of the elderly clothing market.
A Study on the Origins of Modernity in the Soma Delaunay's Fashion Design
Hyun Sun-Hee ; Bae Soo-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 18~32
The purpose of this study is to find out the origin of perpetuity in the fashion design of Soma Delaunay, who was recognized as a unique designer in the 20th century. Her characteristics of fashion design appeared as dynamism in the incline of op-art using geometric pattern designed on the basis of abstract painting, color contrast between strong original colors, and repeated geometric patterns. The modern image can be explained as modernity in modern fashion and is continued in these days. The origins of modernity analyzed as follows. First, Soma Delaunay developed textile design, considering the use of clothing on the basis of scientific idea. Furthermore, she evolved traditional textile design and making process into a practical and rational way through developing new needlework technique. Second, she tried a new style through a straight silhouette in contrast to Art Nouveau style and the test and mixture of different genres. Third, she expressed the simultaneity of Orphism through the parallel structure of various colors. In particular, she used the contrast of strong and clear original colors to express a rhythm of dynamism and give visual interest through color. Finally, Soma Delaunay attempted to approach the public using clothing, furniture, and curtains with the focus on textiles. It may represent her intention to remove a gap between art and life by understanding the public and their life. As examined above, it can be sad that Soma Delaunay's scientific idea with the flow of industrialization, an open attitude not bound by a rule as an artist, an idea of Avant-garde, the comprehension of various colors and the understanding of the public. These factors lie at the bottom of her fashion design.
Classification of Foot Types for Shoes Size System of Elderly Women
Park Jae-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 33~44
The purpose of this study Is to classify foot types of elderly women and young women and to suggest shoes size system by foot types for elderly women. The subjects were 321 elderly women and 181 young women. Their right feet were measured directly and indirectly by using scanner and digital camera. The anthropometric measurements were composed of 62 items. They were measured during the months of July and October in 2001 and November in 2002 The results and discussions of this study are as follows. First, in analyzing shape of the foot of elderly and young women, the shapes of foot were classified as N-type (high and narrow foot shape and wide toes), W-type (wider width for its length and severe alteration), L-type (low foot shape as oval). Second, the most characteristic foot type in elderly women was W-type. In this type, the width was wider for its length, the first metatarsophalangeal protrusion was severe and the toes were gathered at the center. On the other hand, young women belonged to N-type. Third, we suggested new size system of shoes for elderly women and the standard foot shape each type. The size system was based on foot length and foot types. Hopefully, understanding the shapes of foot and characteristics of each foot type will help to develop suitable shoes for elderly women.
A Study on the Expansion Methodology of Creative Fashion Design
Kong Mi-Sun ; Chae Keum-Seok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 45~57
The creative fashion design is the technique which ran be obtained through the structural analysis of the relationship between principle, element-combination and idea-expression. In the research, as the results of theoretical survey of design structure and idea-expression, the structural and subjective designs are classified and defined: a. the structural design is analyzed with the existing examples based on the combinational Idea-expression of the O.C.L method, and b. the subjective design is also analyzed connecting the real examples to Cordon method, Synetic method, Association method, and expansive idea-expression-method obtained by the Experiences of Geometrical Combinations. The research can be summarized as follows: 1. The creative fashion design which emphasizes the geometrical structure utilizes the modification method whirh combines the shapes and constructs extraordinary structural beauty coming from the complex structural principle, that is, emphasis and balance. 2. The creative fashion design which emphasizes specific subjects utilizes the modification method which mimics representative and plastic resemblances and constructs symbolic structural beauty coming from the simple structural principle, that is, material elements.
The Types and Formative Characteristics of Seon Represented of Costume in Amitabha of the late Koryo Dynasty
Ok Myung-Sun ; Park Ok-Lyun ; Lee Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 58~69
The purpose of this study is to investigate types and formative characteristics of 'Seon' represented of costume in Amitabha of the late Koryo Dynasty. The results were as follows; The type of 'Seon' is classified into Standard, Decoration and Application types. According to three types, the types of the standard are subdivided into same rotor and no pattern and different color and no pattern, the types of the decoration are subdivided into same color and pattern and different color and pattern, And the types of the application are subdivided into wrinkle and beads-decorated wrinkle according to whether decorative beads exist or not. In the Standard type of Seon, same color and no pattern in the Decoration type of Seon, different color and pattern was most often used as its type while, in the applied type of Seon had its main type of beads-decorated wrinkle. Patterns used for Seon were complex in its composition type and filing in its arrangement style. Seon was used mainly for guneui(裙衣) and daeeui(大衣). The color arrangement of Seon, in most cases, used complementary colors, followed by same ones. Regarding costumes aesthetic characteristics in accordance with the type of Seon, those costumes appeared natural and plain when their Seon was same color and no pattern in type, artificial and plain when their Seon was different color and no pattern in type, natural and brilliant when same color and pattern in type and artificial and brilliant when different color and pattern. In regard to the applied type of Seon, such costumes looked sophisticated and delicate when their Seon was wrinkle in type and dynamic and decorative when beads-decorated wrinkle.
A Study on the System of Official Uniforms Established by Emperor Hong-wu(洪武) of the Ming(明) Dynasty
Chun Hea-Sook ; Ryoo Jae-Woon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 70~81
This paper researches the system of official uniforms and characteristics of the system based on Ming-Shi(明史), Da-Ming-Hui-Dian(大明會典) and Hong-Wu-Li-Zhi(洪武禮制) in the emperor Hong-wu(洪武帝) of Ming dynasty(明). The system could be divided in to three terms, i.e., the early (initial), the middle and the end (last) terms. In the first(1368) & the third year of the emperor's reign (1370) the system of official uniforms was simple f9r his people not to be luxurious and for revived the system of official uniforms of the Han dynasty(漢) and annulled the system of the Yuan dynasty(元), be-cause the country was not stable yet. During the middle term of Hong-wu, the 14th (1381) to 16th (1383) year of his reign, people attained luxurious lives and developed a strong sense of rank as the country became more stable. As a result, the system became more complicated when the emperor used the costumes to represent political and social ranking. In the end of the emperor's age, the 23rd (1390) to 26th (1393), it reveals his strong intention to establish a system of costumes that separated the ruler from the ruled. He wanted to strengthen the power of Emperor for his little grandson, Jian-wen(建文帝), who would succeed to the throne and would have absolute power. These changes became fundamental to the Ming dynasty's costume system and the Ming dynasty kept them for long time.
An Analysis of the Style of Kogufo Costume -Trousers-
Hong Na Young ; Lee Mi-Hyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 82~91
The purpose of this study is to analyze the style of trousers of Koguryo(高句麗). Trousers of Koguryo were called Go(袴: trousers) and those had various forms according to the shape of gusset(dang, 糖), width and length of the trousers. Commonly the trousers that had worn by Koguryo people had gausset in those bottom not to be shown hip. The gausset was cut triangle or square so if a person wear the trouser with the triangular gausset, the trouser has a pointed hip. Sometimes the trousers had non pointed hips were dicovered in the wall-paintings of the Koguryo tombs, they are thought the trousers that had no gaussets or square one. And also there were another trousers that had wide/narrow legs and long/short legs. Trousers of wide legs were called Gwango(寬袴) and narrow legs Sego(細袴). Gwango(寬袴) grew wider over time and in the late age, the trousers were called Daegugo(大口袴) with wide ends were worn. Trousers were also decorated elaborately with patches on the edges, leg ties, vents, etc.
A Study on Black Leather Jacket in Youth Sub-Culture
Kim Ji-Seon ; Yum Hae-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 92~104
This study aimed to reveal the concept and background of emergence of black leather jacket that began appearing in full-scale among youth sub-culture from 1950's, and to research its styles and aesthetic features on the basis of that. The researcher has intended to a theoretical frame to recreate black leather jacket which has been developing in youth sub-culture style as a resource of new design in modern fashion trend through this study There are 5 styles of black leather jacket in youth sub-culture after 1950's. Firstly, biker style black leather jacket showed ruined war heroes substituting for military uniform. Secondly, rocker style black leather jacket brought the conversion in definition of masculinity. Thirdly, greaser style black leather jacket showed the beauty of uncleanness expressing resistance and violence with tattered dirty materials and excessive metal ornaments. Fourthly, headbanger style black leather jacket was prominent in various and compound decoration due to combination of rocker and hippie features. fifthly, punk style black leather jacket was influenced greatly by Sex Pistols. There are broadly three ecstatic features oi black leather jacket among youth sub-culture. With regard to displaying terrorism, black leather jacket displayed threatening aspects with black color, formative beauty of inverted triangle, additional decoration, and animal & brutal feelings. Paradoxical trophyism showed Nihilism, disorder, and resistance through black color that symbolize bad luck and unstability, trophyism with bad flavor, tattered material effect, and destructive message painting. Masculine eroticism appeared in accordance with pursuing after pleasure and masculine sexuality through exposure of buttocks and focused penis due to jacket's short length, and fetish of black.
A Study on the Service Quality, Quality of Relationship, and Relationship Continuity Intention of Rental Clothing Store
Kim Yong-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 105~115
The purposes of this study were to identify the service quality, quality of relationship, and relationship continuity intention of rental clothing store. Questionnaires developed by researcher were collected from 212 consumers who experienced rental clothing. Data was analysed by use of factor analysis, path analysis, and covariance structure analysis. The results were; 1. Factors of service quality of clothing rental store were tangibility & promotion, shop assistant & store atmosphere, customer empathy, customer reliability strategy, customer management, and customer convenience. And factors of relationship quality were satisfaction, trust, emotional involvement, and calculational involvement, and factors of relationship continuity intention were longitudinal relationship propensity & word-of-mouth and rerental intention. 2. Service quality of rental store affected significantly on relationship quality, and relationship quality affected significantly on relationship continuity intention. And service qualify of rental store affected significantly on relationship continuity intention through relationship qualify.
A Study on Actual Conditions and Sizing Systems of Domestic Glove Production Companies
Choi Hei-Sun ; Kim Eun-Kyong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 116~128
The aim of this study is to understand problems with both fit and sizing system of gloves by analyzing the glove production industries with an emphasis on the sizing system, production measurement system, and general marking situation. Also, to suggest the basic raw materials for improving sizing system for gloves, actual glove control sizes were compared to the anthropometric data of the previous study Fifteen domestic production companies were participated in this study-Domestic glove production companies established their own sizing system by copying inter-national brand's glove sizing system or by their experience. The Korean Standard of gloves and the 1997 Korean Standard Anthropometrics Measurement for producing glove patterns are not considered because of its discordance with the reality of the required measurements. Domestic glove production companies used different size designation and labeling system. Size measurement unit also showed difference among the glove production companies. Some companies used 'cm', some used 'mm', some used 'inch' for the measurement unit. In general, companies produced 5 to 4 sizes in one design of glove and the production was the highest in M and L size. In 9 out of 15 companies preferred control size as hand length and hand circumference. For reference size, most of the companies preferred finger circumference, finger length, palm length, hand breadth, crotch height, and hand thickness. Actual glove sizes were compared to the anthropometric data of the previous study. The results indicated that most of the measurements of actual glove sizes were significantly larger than the anthropometric data.
Women Power Dressing Expressed in Recent Fashion - With Reference to the Female Yuppie Style of the 80s -
Choi Ho-Jeong ; Ha Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 129~142
As more our society express their interests in strong and independent women on the onset of the 21st century when source of power shifts to knowledge and information, women with economic power are increasing in number, which is because demands for delicacy and objective Judgment known as unique qualities of woman who was deemed to be inferior to man in the past century are now in the rise in many professional sectors. The shift in public awareness of female image and capability is also being manifested recently by a new fashion style named New Women Power Dressing. Comparing the so-called new power dressing style with the female yuppie fashion of the 80s known to have marked the beginning of female power dressing, this study aims to define the uniqueness of women power dressing style of today, reanalyze the fashion style of today in reference to its predecessors and predict new fashion trend for the futurr. As a conclusion, both of the female yuppie style of the 80s and the new power dressing trend of the 2000s were found to stress manliness and showoff. Such characteristics were expressed in terms of focuses on both fitness and fashion style. However, the female yuppie look of the 80s and its successor of the 2000s showed significant difference in what they were intended to signify internally and how they were displayed externally.
A Study on the Club Wear around University
Bae Jungmin ; Kim Young-Sam ; Chung Heungsook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 2, 2005, Pages 143~152
Stepping in the 1990s, we has lived under the time of co-existence of diverse culture as well as faced the diffusion of pop-culture. The border between subculture style and hi-fashion has been blurred since beginning of 1990s. By this reason, recognizing the power of influence and importance of subculture style, we will try to provide the comprehensive vision reflecting the cultural background to analyze the subculture style. We will conclude this article with discussing the club-culture which is settle as one type of culture. Enjoying the club-culture, clubber tries to escape from the structural estrangement putting by the magical and symbolic meaning through creating their own style, and endowing their life the meaning. They make liquid club wear targeting at general young culture, pop culture, and subculture as well as hippies, Mods, funk. The Club wear around University sort out Hiphop Style, Casual Style, Mix and Match style. As at the club the hiphop music was played, the hiphop style dress becomes the club ware. Especially, training style clothes which is easy to dance has become the everyday dress, not just restricted in the indoor dress.