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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 55, Issue 8 - Dec 2005
Volume 55, Issue 7 - Nov 2005
Volume 55, Issue 6 - Sep 2005
Volume 55, Issue 5 - Aug 2005
Volume 55, Issue 4 - Jul 2005
Volume 55, Issue 3 - May 2005
Volume 55, Issue 2 - Mar 2005
Volume 55, Issue 1 - Jan 2005
Selecting the target year
Design Process for Fashion Product Development Applying Taekuki
Kim Hyun-Joo ; Seo Soo-Hyun ; Jang Nam-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 1~15
For every country, the flag is a major symbol that represents the country. Establishing image though the use of the country's symbol is more important for achieving national competitiveness in this global age. In Korea, Taekuki has not been actively applied to fashion products, however Korean people began to realize the Taekuki as a motif of fashion with 2002 World Cup. Thus, research on fashion product development applying Taekuki is needed. This research developed designs for fashion product development applying Taekuki. In addition, through suggesting various applied motives, this research explored the product possibility of global fashion design that represents Korean identity and fashion. For research method, after research on fashion design process, design development was progressed according to the 4-phases that comprehends processes previous researchers presented. First, in the problem recognition phase, background on the introduction of Taekuki to products and Taekuki fashion during 2002 World Cup was analyzed. Then, the need and possibility of fashion product development applying Taekuki's formative characteristics were found. Second, in research and analysis phase, meaning and history of Taekuki as well as flag fashion product developments in the U.S. and England examples were reviewed. Also, individual interviews with experts and consumers were conducted to collect qualitative data regarding product and design direction. Third, in idealization for problem solving phase, 62 designs including 43 apparels and 19 accessories were emerged. Finally, in evaluation phase, 40 university students majoring design evaluated designs' creativity, function, uniqueness, symbol, aesthetics, and harmony. Through this research, it is expected that fashion products applying Taekuki will be formly established as a fashion item. Furthermore, it is also expected that product development in other categories, brand planning, and product development using other national symbols such as name, anthem, and flower will be followed.
A Study on Purchasing Patterns of Cosmetics According to Impulse Shopping, Benefits Sought and Information Source of Female Consumers
Lee Jin-A ; Hwang Sun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 16~28
The purposes of this study were to understand the buying patterns of adult women according to impulse shopping, benefits sought, and selecting information sources. This subjects of this study were 509 adult women from the age 20's to the age of 40's. This data were analyzed by using factor analysis multi regression analysis, analysis of variance, Scheffe' test. The results of this study were outlined as follow: 1. Differences among ages (the 20's, the 30's, and the 40's) in impulse shopping were as follow: The 30's bought more cosmetics to change their mood compared to the 20's or the 40's, and the 20's and the 30's bought more cosmetics matching to their images compared to the 40's. 2. From the aspects of benefits sought, the 20's and the 30's were more seriously consider the fame of brands compared to the 40's, showing they were different from the 40's. 3. From the aspects of selecting information sources about cosmetics, the 20's were more actively utilizing both human information sources and non-human information sources compared to the 30's and the 40's.
Nail Art Design Applied Jean Dubuffet's Assemblage
Jang Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 29~37
Beauty Art is an act which makes a face beautiful using various methods such as permanent, manicure and make-up. Recently, Beauty Art is recognized as the personal culture expressing the value of beauty and spirit. Therefore, there are growing interests in the comprehensive study of Beauty Art nor only from the beauty industries but also from academia, because Beauty Art is the high value-added field and Is recognized as a style of the dress. The purpose of this study is to open a new view to understand the Nail Art as a fold of experimental plastic art. The arctic expression is added to Beauty Art to develop it from the routine technique of the make-up and hairstyling to creative art. Assemblage is adopted to provide Beauty Art with fine harmonious expression which develop Nail Art into interesting and unique art area. Assemblage meaning compounding or collection is a technique through which three-dimension is added to two-dimension paintings, and which is an expression of an art work by recollection of miscellaneous articles or waste materials. Assemblage is a term which Jean Dubuffet coioned first in order to differentiate collage used by Picaso or Braque. Here, I present Nail Art Designs which applied Jean Dubuffet's works focusing on Automaticity and Happenstantial phenomena of materials, Materialization, and Directness. These features are characteristics of Assemblage which basic frameworks are fantastic collection, accumulation, constructive collection, and object collection.
The Study on the Costume of Parhae through the Exchange for Tang and Ancient Japan - focused on the Exchanged Items-
Jeon Hyun-Sil ; Kang Soon-Che ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 38~48
This study is consider·ed about the relation or costume among Parhae, ancient Japan and Tang and the culture of this time commonly was influenced by Tang;s culture. The recorded items, which were exchanged from Parhae to Tang and ancient Japan, are the pelt of marten, seal, bear and tiger skin or Ammowhaha(암모화) Gu(구) and so on. Other items from Tang and ancient Japan to Parhae are various clothes and material like silk and so on. This Parhae's clothes made with leather obtained through hunting were the main product of Parhae and had been greatly famous in Tang and ancient Japan. At that time, Tang and ancient Japan had been only dependent on the agricultural life but had not been accustomed to the hunting life, and thereupon, the people in Tang and Nara Era had difficulties to get leather clothes. Accordingly, the leather products stood for the rich, and the people who purchased the leather products from Parhae were recognized as the rich. On the other hand, The prince and the royal family in Parhae were dispatched to Tang as Sooktwui(숙위). They paid a tribute to Tang and In return for it, Tang gave to Sookwui as well as to Parhae's envoys various items and clothes such as Po(포), belt(대), gold and silver Eodae(어대) and textile like a type of silk. These clothes were considered as the formal uniform like Kwanbok(관복) of Parhae. Specially, the time when Sookwui was sent to Tang rot-responded with the time when Tang gave formal uniform to Parhae's envoys. Therefore, we can confirm that the sending of Sookwui influenced to form uniform system of Parhae. In this exchange relation, there were several duplicated items showed, for example Po(포)-belt(대), Eui set(의일습), Eoeui(어의), Jobok(조복), Go(고). These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Tang to Parhae. At that time, the exchanges between Tang and Parhae were frequently active much more than those between Tang and Japan, and the acceptance of the culture from Tang was easier in Parhae than Japan in consideration of the geographical location. Therefore, those clothes could be understood as the items already used in Parhae and affected from Tang. These items in Parhae were appeared in process of exchanging from Tang to Japan and from Japan to Parhae. As a result, it is expected that the costumes, which Parhae took from Japan, are the same as those of Tang.
The Types and Formation of the Pieces for Fastening the Clothing in the Western and Oriental World from 18c to 19c
Jang Hyun-Joo ; Jang Jeong-Ah ; Lee Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 49~61
This study is to research the types and formation of the pieces for fastening the clothing in the western and oriental world from 18c to 19c. The pieces for fastening the clothing, depending on their formation, are classified as the ribbon type, the belt type, the button type, and the compound type. The ribbon type indicates fastening the clothing with the strips attached to the clothes. It is divided into the symmetry type and the asymmetry type by the looks of the ribbon alter it is tied. The belt type means fastening the clothing with a string or a belt, separated from the clothes. It is divided into the string type and the belt type. The button type is to fasten the clothing with buttons, button holes, and hooks. It is divided into the basic type, the wrapping type, and the knot type. The compound type is a mixture of two or three types out of the ribbon type, the belt type, and the button type. The pieces for fastening the clothing has aesthetic features as well as their functional characteristics. It has beautiful features like the harmonious beauty of Yin and Yen shown in the asymmetrical types, the beauty of spell wishing for health, long-life, wealth, wisdom, and so on, the beauty of decency showing the intention of refraining from exposing their body in public, the beauty of eroticism emphasizing the beauty of the human body, and the beauty of representing their social class, authority, affiliation, and so on.
A Study of the Formative Characteristics in Architecture and Fashion of the Modernism Period
Kim Hye-Young ; Hur Da-Sul ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 62~78
The modern period was the time that the most radical and extensive social and mental changes were occurring throughout the history, and modernism was prevailing as a general cognition system of people. Modernism, which carries principles of progress, belief in application of scientific technology, worship of reason, ideal of liberty as a col-e value of civilization, was plated as a leading ideology in the realm of society, culture and art In the early 20th century. In this study, the formative characteristics of modernism seen in architecture and fashion are analogized and analyzed in four ways ell the basis of the theory of p. Greenhalgh. First, 'Standardization for mass-production', which is analogized which P. Greenhalgh's 'Decompart-mentalisation', 'Social Morality', and' Technology'. Standardization for mass-production in architecture focuses on the development of a design prototype in order to mass produce; the development of ready-made clothes is actively done ill the fashion area for the same purpose as well. Second, 'Rational functionality' coming from P. Greenhalgh's 'The total work of art' and 'Function'. While rational functionality in architecture puts an emphasis on the rational operation of all the functions in regard to the relation between each part and the whole, rational functionality in fashion call be mainly seen in a dramatic increase in physical activity which could be hardly found before the modernism period. Namely, all the fashion design elements are developed for a certain rational and functional design on each part as well as on the whole in order to greatly increase physical activity. Third, 'the pursuit for genuineness of objects and universality of beauty' is on the analogy of P Greenhalgh's 'Truth', 'Anti-historicism', 'Abstraction', 'Internationalism/Universality'. This idea is adopted in architecture in the form of design of geometrical abstraction. In the same way, design using geometrical abstraction comes to have a significant meaning in fashion of the modernism period. So to speak, modernism architecture and fashion can be reborn to become an inter·national style by giving up the decorative and regional design prevailing before modernism and by expressing universal aesthetics in the form of simplicity and abstraction instead. Fourth, 'Expression of progress through a change in a viewpoint' stems from P. Greenhalgh's 'Progress', 'Transformation of Consciousness', 'Theology'. In architecture, this concept appears by using new construction materials and methods and by representing new aesthetical idea. As a result, it makes it possible for people to make progress for better lives. Like in architecture, new attempts for material application and processing are made in fashion. This gives rise to a general change in a viewpoint related to fashion, so that a flew fashion design which there has never been before can come out.
A Study of the Characteristics of Cybernetics Exhibited in Fashion as a Media of Digital Environment
Kim Hyun-Soo ; Kim Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 79~94
The goal of this research, contorted from the perspective of media aesthetics, is to uncover the ways how mechanical/cybersensual fashion products express aesthetic characteristics of cybernetics, by comparing them with digital products designed by an application of cybernetics. The other goal is to provide a cultural and design framework of cybernetics as d digital-environmental medium for fashion in which hightech and human sensibilities are fused. The results urged to explore two new contrasting perceptual possibilities for an understanding of digital technology application: negative and positive feedbacks. Cybernetic optimism, centered on technological dimensions, focuses on a concept of fashion that emphasize instrumental aspects-efficiency and convenience. In contrast, cybernetic pessimism focuses on digital fashion that expresses environmental destruction and the loss of human identity. A comparative analysis of the aesthetics of expression in digital fashion design and digital industrial products from a cybernetic perspective showed that in digital environment society, the combination of negative and positive feedbacks resulted in design products in which internal and external aspects of beauty complemented each other.
A Study of Design Method impacting on Pattern Expression of Jacquard Fabric -On Based Using CAD-
Song Gyeong-Ja ; Chin Young-Gil ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 95~106
The purpose of this study was to research the design methods to express jacquard design using CAD. For this study, two design patterns were divided; in addition, each design pattern is applied to two different weaving types, single woven fabric and double well cloths. As a result, 16 samples were produced by applying 4 design methods (warp shrunk as half size design/weft shrunk as half size design - A, warp shrunk as half size design/weft original size design - B, warp original size design/weft shrunk as half size design - C, warp original size design/weft original size design - D) to the two design patterns with the two weaving types. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The most delicate design method was Method D. However, Method B which took half the time less than Method D was almost as delicate as the Method D on the surface. 2. Method B was judged as a considerably efficient method for time and cost. 3. Method D was considered as most suitable for elaborate parts and delicate lines. However, it was considered uneconomical since it took the longest time. 4. Mettled A took 2.5 times less time than Method D. Therefore, Method A was more applicable to producing high density design. 5. Method C is not considered as a useful method as it showed rough surface and took long time by applying high design zoom except intentional design.
A Comparative Study on Movie Costume for the "Dangerous Liaison" and "The Scandal"
Kim Hyun-Jung ; Yang Chieu-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 107~123
In this thesis, I tried to compare and analyze the characteristics of the costume worn by leading figures of French movie 'Dangerous Liaison' and Korean movie 'The Scandal'. I compared the costumes they wear with the costumes of 18th century Fran[e and also tried to analyze how the costumes represent the psychological status of the persons in the movie. Since these two movies are based on the same original novel, the major figure's characters, socio-economic status and the situations they faced are similar but the physical background are very different, that is Fran[e and Korea. The analysis of the costume worn by similar characters in the two movies show differences due to the intention of tile producer's. The costumes used in Scandal shows much more use of varied colors to represent the characters of the major roles while Dangerous Liaison more faithfully follows the evidences of the costume used in the period in France. As seen from the result of this analysis, we can deduce that the costumes used in the movie not only have the simple role of clothes but also itforms the image of the figure in the movie representing the social and economic status of the person who wears them. Because of these demands, the designer should posses profound knowledge of history of the costumes of the period as well as the creativity to harmonize them with the atmosphere that the movie intend to appeal.
Research of the Exotic Fashion Observed in Chinese Dancing Costumes - From Han to Sui Tang Dynasty-
Yoon Ji-Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 124~137
Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Religion is the essence of human life and the source of ideas about life, the universe and existence, so they become hidden inside of the structure of culture. Dancing costumes present the process of cultural modification and acceptance more vividly than general costumes. This research shows that, among foreign cultures, it is Buddhism that most influenced Chinese dancing costume. Taoism was the Chinese native religion that played an oppositional role against Buddhism. Taoism was hidden in Chinese dancing costume in every age. Chinese dancing costume changed many times due to the import of exotic styles such as Buddhism that partially replaced the Taoistic tradition. Therefore, it is confirmed that the process of cultural importation of exotic style was different according to the social, historical, and cultural backgrounds of China during the period from the Han to the Sui and Tang dynasties.
A Study on Phrygia Headgear
Yi-Chang Youngsoo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 138~150
Phrygia headgear has an important meaning from the perspectives of costume history and cultural exchanges in ancient times. This study is to investigate the prototype of Phrygia headgear through analysis of its manufacturing methods and styles on the basis of prior studies on ancient sculptures and literatures conducted by European researchers and to examine its history and meanings. In these ways, this study will be helpful in understanding the importance of Phrygia headgear in cultural exchanges between the East and the West. Results of this study can be summarized as follows: Phrygia headgear was orn by eastern tribes, so it was a symbol of those from the east in ancient times. Phrygia headgear is frequently found in Greek artistic works of 5th to 4th century BC that depicted eastern tribes. Also, this headgear can be observed in artistic works for Mithras, Attis, or other gods. Since Phrygia headgear's shape is similar to that of Homer's helm, many researchers believe that it might be originated from Homer's helm. This headgear made of oxen scrotum(stierbeutel) or its surrounding skin has a long end at the top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we top. This long end is round and drooping toward the front side. From such unique shape, we can draw a conclusion that Phrygia headgear was made of oxen scrotum and its surrounding skin. Dependingy on drooping patterns, there are various shapes, such as the round, tightly swollen one worn by Mithras, the tongue-shaped one found in Basilika S. Apolinare Nuovo's mosaic depicting three wise men, the balloon-shaped one frequently found in Greek vases depicting Scythian, and the one drooping to the side depicted in Alexandersarkophag. Further, some Phrygia headgear has covers for neck and ears. For example, Phrygia headgear worn by Persian Satrap tribe has such covers attached to the head part. Meanwhile, Phrygia headgear worn by Amazone tribe does not show such separate covers, Rather, one piece of oxen skin was tanned and finished to make such covers. Wearing Phrygia headgear can be interpreted in several ways. Use of animal's skin for wearing things is a unique aspect in ancient societies because they believed that wearing animal skin would give them power of the animal. Further, Phrygia headgear made of oxen scrotum was a symbol of reproductive power to women.
A Study on Type of Planning Information Available from Fashion Information Providers of Korea
Choi Ho-Jeong ; Ha Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 55, issue 4, 2005, Pages 151~165
Given the fashion customer needs that are getting more complicated and diverse recently, differentiation is required more than ever even from the trend-planning phase where design concept for the forthcoming season is determined. Even though value of information in fashion industry is becoming more critical than any other time in the past, local fashion industry has yet to be approached academically. Therefore, this study attempted to identify the as-is status of local fashion information industry and analyzed duplication and differentiation of information provided by fashion information providers to suggest a roadmap for evolution of the fashion information industry of Korea that is expected to become more active in the future. This research employed biblical study, industry interview, contents analysis and case study. We have studied evolution of local fashion information industry and various types of planning information services as described in the above and expect this study to provide useful references to as-is status of local fashion information industry, for further studies by others and selection of product planning information providers.