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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 56, Issue 9 - Dec 2006
Volume 56, Issue 8 - Nov 2006
Volume 56, Issue 7 - Oct 2006
Volume 56, Issue 7 - Sep 2006
Volume 56, Issue 6 - Aug 2006
Volume 56, Issue 5 - Jul 2006
Volume 56, Issue 4 - May 2006
Volume 56, Issue 3 - Mar 2006
Volume 56, Issue 2 - Feb 2006
Volume 56, Issue 1 - Jan 2006
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Iconization of Che Guevara Expressed in Contemporary Fashion
Kim, Hye-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 1~11
Che Guevara spearheading the Cuban Revolution was not only the icon as the revolutionary to the New-leftists of the 1960s advocating the ideology of Marxism but, as the cultural revolutionary, had a tremendous influence on the younger generation living in the digital age Che Guevara take on a figure of both the symbol of the Leftist but the romantic revolutionary because he had the external features such as black beret, red stars, military upper jackets and trousers, beard and pipe tobacco. In fact, the symbolic image of Che Guevara was made as the popular image by the avantgarde artists and political vanguard forces of the times under the necessity of Cuban government. Afterwards, the image of Che Guevara has been patronized in making people of aware of the resistant and revolutionary image to capital, power and the power of the media and symbolized as the resistant image to the American capital as well as the revolutionary guerrilla. And his image has continued to be reproduced and symbolized for the commercial and political purposes and as the enthusiastic image of youth culture. This can be seen as having been created as a new image by the popular culture formed by the development of the cyber culture and mass media in the cyberspace shaped by contemporary 'N' generations. The use of Che Guevara's symbolic image was made in the fashion field as well as in the cultural and artistic circles. The borrowing of the icon of Che Guevara represented in a fashion field is attributed to his free spirit, and it can be seen that fashion exists as the vehicle for representing both the symbol system and the sign system containing ideologies and texts as the communicator of resistance to the regime and to social issues. Therefore, this study attempted to investigate the commercial iconization of Che Guevara in the 1990s by comparing the ideology of the symbol in the 1960s and the 1990s and inquire into the borrowing of his image by the fashion domain as well as the fashion worn by him by reference to domestic books and materials on the fashion site. Thereby, this study attempted to make clear that the borrowing of Che Guevara in the realm of fashion since the 1990s not only contained the meaningful interpretation as the symbolic code in the culture of young people living in a digital era but fashion performs an intervening role in the cultural phenomenon.
Analysis for the Internal Meaning of the Ancient Shining Costumes
Kim, Jung-Ae ; Lee, Hyo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 12~27
The purpose of this study was to analyze the mental, social and aesthetic facets contained in ancient shining costumes and to find out the internal meaning of ancient shining costumes that they wished to express. This study was based on the theoretical data regarding the materials, types, and characteristics of the shining costumes. Egypt, Rome, Greece and several Mesopotamian countries have been included as a scope of research. The literature examination skill was applied for the research. The internal meaning of ancient shining costumes could be understood as an instrument of expression regarding religion, social status and beauty.
A Study on Well-Being Marketing Strategy by Female Consumers' Types - Focusing on Well-Being Lifestyle -
Jang, Seung-Hee ; Jang, Eun-Young ; Lee, Sun-Jae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 28~41
The purposes of this study were to analyze 'well-being' lifestyle pursuits depending on consumer types and to classify female consumer types according to their 'well-being' awareness. This study also intended to examine the levels of consumers' participation in pursuing a 'well-being' lifestyle, and to find female consumers' characteristics related to well-being lifestyle. The results of study were as follows: First, female consumers were classified in terms of their lifestyle by using their participation in, and awareness of well-being concerns. The results were divided into four groups: society/family-oriented group, 'well-being' oriented leading group, trend-oriented material wealth pursuit group, and selt~centered/fashionable appearance-oriented group. Second, the results of examining characteristics by female consumer type in terms of their pursuit of a well-being lifestyle show that the 'well-being' oriented leading group had the greatest number of innovators and followers. Also, the trend-oriented material wealth pursuit group consisted of mostly medium level participants, and the self-centered/fashionable appearance-oriented group had the greatest number of 'well-being' lifestyle bystanders. With regards to practical participation group, significant differences were found in the sections of 'health', 'leisure' and 'whole', except for 'appearance management'. With regards to purchase experience of 'well-being' products, the health-oriented leading group was the highest participation level in the sections of 'clothes' and 'food', except for 'residence', in which the society/family-oriented group was the highest. Third, demographical characteristics within female consumer types classified by 'well-being' lifestyle showed that the society/family-oriented group had a high percent of. dedicated housewives in their forties or fifties, and the trend-oriented material wealth pursuit group has a high percent of married people in their twenties or thirties. Also, the self-oriented/fashionable appearance-oriented group had a high percent of unmarried. people in their twenties.
The Study of the Culture of Dyeing in Koguryo
Jang, Hyun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 42~56
The purpose of this study is to review the literatures and the wall paintings of the ancient tombs of Koguryo in an effort to try to understand the characteristics of the culture of dyeing in Koguryo. The research findings follow: 1. The colors that were in vogue in Koguryo are five cardinal colors (red, blue, white, black, and yellow) and compound colors, like purple and green. Those colors were used in some or all parts of the clothing and even on some parts of the body. 2. Some clothing of Koguryo as shown in the wall paintings were made with a single and solid color by dip dyeing method. But the majority of the clothing had a variety of patterns. Among the patterns, the geometrical dot pattern took the majority. 3. The dyeing techniques used in Koguryo were printing, yarn dyeing, embroidery, wax resist dyeing, drawing and painting. The development of yarn dyeing method, weaving with silk-threads dyed in various colors, enabled to produce Geum fabrics, which were used for the upper classes' clothing. 4. The esthetic features represented in the colors of Koguryo include the beauty of contrast coloring, preference for red, preference for geometrical patterns, and the harmony of yin and yang.
Research of the Foreign Dancing Costumes - From Han to Sui Tang Dynasty -
Yoo, Ji-Won ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 57~72
Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. In the beginning, only foreigners danced these dances, but Chinese started to dance them gradually. Thus, the dancing costume showed the complete fusion of Chinese and exotic styles. Especially, in the Tang dynasty, Chinese accepted foreign culture very actively and with open hearts. They accepted foreign culture based on their traditional culture, and fused them completely. In these costumes, not one culture was prominent, but many cultures from Gandhara to East and West Turkistan and even to Persian and Hellenism were synthesized together. Chinese, in the Tang dynasty, retained on their traditional culture and modified new foreign culture into Chinese style.
Study on the Utilization of Natural Dyeing Materials as Household Supplies
Chu, Young-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 73~80
This study is aimed to produce natural dyeing garments, which contain the sentiments and color sense of Koreans, by using various household supplies, with a view to increase the values added and utilization of natural dyeing. The dyes mainly used for this study are multi-colored ones which are durable after dyeing and can represent various colors. They include Lithodpermum officinale, Caesalpinia sappan, Rubia Cordifolia, Pellodendron Bak, Curcuma Longa L., fallen Ginkgo Biloba, Artemisia Princeps, and Quereus acutissima carr shell. Considering water pollution and other things, aluminum acetate and ferrous chloride were used as mordants. Cheap and practical materials such as cotton cloth and those with traditional patterns and elegance such as silk and ramie fabrics were used to produce baby goods, household supplies, clothes, and accessories. The produced supplies closely contact with our body, so they may have a great effect on human body. The household supplies produced include rug, bedclothes, room bedclothes, curtain, bedding set, cushion, and sunlight blind, in consideration of the functionality or medical actions of the goods which are closely related to the human skin. The infant supplies produced include longcloth for newborn baby, bedding set, gauze handkerchief, and doll. The clothes include night gown, shirt, bath gown, and Korean traditional clothes. The accessories include tablecloth, cup pad, bag, wrapping cloth, mouse and keyboard cushion, and scarf. Nowadays, consumers prefer environment-friendly naturally dyed garments and products. In order to control the naturally dyed garments and products which are traded in the domestic market, it is urgent to introduce such ecological marks as 'Toxproof' and 'Ecoproof.' Currently, many ordinary persons, who are not experts, have interest and participate in natural dyeing, but they simply produce naturally dyed garments, not artistic works or everyday supplies. The present author expects this study will contribute to the production of household goods by such persons. The author also hopes that they will develop and commercialize such designs as suit to modern tastes and senses based on the unique cultural assets of Koreans, so that Korean naturally dyed products may be recognized as reliable commodities equipped with international competitiveness.
The Pattern of Clothing Export in Leading Countries
Ji, Hye-Kyung ; Rhee, Eun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 81~90
The objective of the study is to review trends of clothing export in important countries of the world and thus to know the present stage of clothing export in Korea. For the purpose, changes of export amount, competitiveness and product life cycle were analysed in the countries from the 1960's to the 1990's. The results are as following: First, on the aspect of export amount, industrialized countries lost the lead to newly industrializing countries from the 1960's. Developing countries, as China, win the lead. Second, on the competitiveness aspect, industrialized countries lost competitiveness to newly industrializing countries before the 1960's. And newly industrializing countries were outpaced by China in the export competitiveness from the early 1990's. Third, on the aspect of product life cycle, industrialized countries go first through each period of product life cycle, introduction, growth, maturity and decline, and they all, excluding Japan, sustained period of Maturity for a long time. newly industrializing countries and developing countries go orderly through each period of product life cycle after industrialized countries. As to Korea, duration of each period was short. Specially characteristics of decline period appeared partly in the early 1990's. From the results, the theory of product life cycle, helping to explain changes in production and trade in new product lines, estimated to applicable to clothing export. The phenomena, Italy, Hong Kong and America sustain high competitiveness in the world clothing market for a long time, is needed to be studied carefully. The study about strong points in their clothing industries and competitiveness drive program be to influence Korean export policy in the future.
A Study on the Long-Term Relationship Intention Process According to Consumer Characteristics
Kim, Jie- Yurn ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 91~106
The purpose of this study is to examine the differences of long-term relationship intention process according to consumer characteristics. Data for this research was collected from 540 women older than 20 years old in Seoul, Gwangju, and Gyeonggi-do. The results are as follows. First, relationship consumers having relationship with stores were different from customers having relationship with a brand in specific store in the long-term relationship intention process. Second, consumers having relationship for a long period and consumers having relationship for a short period showed differences in long-term relationship intention process. Third, strong relationship consumers and weak relationship consumers showed differences in long-term relationship intention process. Forth, involvement groups showed differences in long-term relationship intention process. These results imply that fashion retailers need set up the relationship strategy for subdivision groups along consumer characteristics.
Study on the Measurements of the Body of Physically Handicapped Women According to their Handicap Types and Age
Chung, Sham-Ho ; Lee, Hyun-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 107~115
This study is aimed to personally measure the body of physically handicapped women and compare the measurements to the results of the fifth project to investigate the measurements of the body of Koreans, identity the differences in the measurements in accordance with the subjects' handicap types and age, and find the characteristics of their physical figures, with a view to propose basic data for developing clothes suitable to the body of physically handicapped people. The findings of this study are summarized in the following: 1. There were significant differences in the measurements of the subjects' shoulder width, breast circumference, waist circumference, hip circumference, armpit circumference, left and right upper arms' circumference, length between front walls of the armpit, and length between back walls of the armpit after the subjects' handicap types were classified into paralysis of the lower half of the body, cerebral apoplexy, cerebral palsy, and amputation and the differences in the subjects' bodily measurements were compared and analyzed. 2. The shoulder width gradually increased for those in their 50s or younger while that of those in 60s or older is almost the same as that of those in their 30s. The waist circumference gradually increased in all the subjects. As a result, the present author concludes that the body of physically handicapped women increases the same way as the body of ordinary adult women does in its circumferential measurements as the subjects grow older.
Types and Formative Characteristics of Seon Expressed in the Costume of Chinese Song(宋) Dynasty
Ok, Myung-Sun ; Park, Ok-Lyun ; Lee, Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 116~128
The purpose of this study is to investigate Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song. For the purpose, this researcher classified types of Seon, found in the Chinese costume, in terms of composition method, decorative technique and used materials. In addition, the researcher attempted to analyze formative characteristics of Sean in accordance with the range and post of use, pattern and color combination. Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song can be classified into standard, decoration, application and Buseon in type. When the typical distribution of Seon expressed in the costume of Chinese Song, standard type was highest in percentage, especially different color type. Looking at the range of use, Seon was mainly used for outfits, especially Jikcheol(直?) and Hakchangeui for men and Baeja(背子) for women. Looking at the post of use, Seon was mainly used to edges of costume and sometimes also to seams. In regard to materials of Seon, they were selectively used depending on the existence or non-existence, size and brilliance or non-brilliance of pattern employed in the texture of Seon. The most commonly used pattern of Seon was single-type pattern, especially the pattern of plant. Pattern arrangement was most often filling in type. Concerning the color combination of Seon, men's dress most often used black-white combination, followed by different color combination while, women's dress most often employed complementary color combination, followed by different color combination.
The Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's Works
Jang, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 129~142
The historicism and romanticism of John Galliano's designs are rivaled only by the spectacular and theatrical nature of his fashion shows; romantic silhouette, the complexity of the cut and, of course, the painstaking attention to historical detail. Galliano's approach is very much that of a British designer in that he absorbs wildly diverging historical and cultural elements to invent new hybridizations of the contemporary. Galliano started his career as part of the wildly uninhibited avant-garde London design scene. His designs were twisted and artfully torn, weired and also beautiful. The purpose of this study is to investigate the Comic Expression depicted on John Galliano's works by borrowing the Comic. The Comic or the Comedy is a kind of art form that signifies exciting effects, and so, is a means of raising a laugh. The similar concepts of the Comic already were depicted by means of transformation and distortion of form, satire, fantastic pastiche and reversion of substances on Cubism, Dada, Surrealism, Pop Art and Postmodernism. Therefore, John Galliano selected the quixotic expressional methods to seek for having playful fun. The aesthetics of the Comic is the beauty based on quantitative or qualitative contradiction between expectations and realizations. That is, the Comic is characterized by getting rid of stress through laugh with clarifying a subject of contradiction. This study found that John Galliano's designs are expressed the quixotic comic on Historical image, Exotic image and Primitive image to make a complaint against the social evils.
The Effect of Appearance Management on Body Image and Psychological Well-Being
Hwang, Jin-Sook ; Kim, Yun-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 3, 2006, Pages 143~155
This study aims to examine the difference of body image and psychological well-being of men and women according to appearance management. The subjects of the study were 673 college students who lived in Seoul and metropolitan areas. Statistical analyses used in the study were factor analysis, Cronbach's a, cluster analysis, ANOVA, Duncan test and
. The results of this study were as follows; 1. The body image was categorized into the three factors of personal interest innce, anxiety about weight and physical attraction. Appearance management was categorized into the appearance management through clothing, strict diet therapy and daily appearance management. The psychological well-being was classified as seven factors which include the life goal, self-acceptance, positive personal relations, self-regulation, personal development, environment control and responsibility. 2. The appearance management was classified by 4 groups as below: Daily appearance management group, strict diet therapy group, appearance management through clothing group and no interest in appearance group. 3. There were significant differences among the four groups regarding body image, psychological well-being and life satisfaction. First, appearance management through clothing group had more interest in appearance than other groups. In the case of weight awareness, strict diet therapy group and the appearance management through clothing group intended to have more concerns over their weight. The strict diet therapy group seemed to have an overall lower level of psychological well-being than other groups. Lastly, the appearance management through clothing group had a higher level of life satisfaction.