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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 56, Issue 9 - Dec 2006
Volume 56, Issue 8 - Nov 2006
Volume 56, Issue 7 - Oct 2006
Volume 56, Issue 7 - Sep 2006
Volume 56, Issue 6 - Aug 2006
Volume 56, Issue 5 - Jul 2006
Volume 56, Issue 4 - May 2006
Volume 56, Issue 3 - Mar 2006
Volume 56, Issue 2 - Feb 2006
Volume 56, Issue 1 - Jan 2006
Selecting the target year
The Aesthetic Consciousness Latent in the Korean People's White Clothes Customs
Kim, Eun-Kyoung ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 1~17
This study purposed to examine Korean people's white clothes custom historically and to explain the aesthetic consciousness latent in the custom. Korean people preferred white clothes, even up to foreigners called them White-clad folk. Not only as in old historical literatures, but also in Soo-suh, Shin-Dang-suh including Sam-Kuk-Ji in China, white clothes were a real symbol to Korean people, ranging chronically far back to the age of ancient tribal countries, Sam-Kuk Period through Koryo Dynasty and even to modern age near the end of Chosun Dynasty, wearing with pleasure regardless of age, sex or social position. Even King himself in Koryo Dynasty is said to have worn white clothes when he was out of official hours. During the Koryo and Chosun Dynasty, white clothes were sometimes prohibited for various reasons including conflicts with the theories of yin-yang and the five elements but such regulations were not effective. To Korean people, white clothes were ordinary people's everyday dress as well as noble people's plain suits, saints' uniforms with religious meanings, ceremonial costumes, funeral garments, etc. The various uses show that white clothes have been worn by many people. The unique custom that a People have worn white clothes consistently for such a long time may contain very deep symbolic meanings representing the people's sentiments and spirits. The present study understood that the meanings come from religious sacredness, magical wish for brightness, the pursuit of purity originating from the people's national traits, assimilation with nature and the will to attain whole ascetic personality. Aesthetic attitudes based on aesthetic values summed up as sacredness, brightness, purity, assimilation with nature, asceticism, etc. are the aesthetic consciousness pursued by Koreans through their white clothes. For Koreans, white color is the origin of their color sense coming from primitive religions such as worshipping the sun and the heaven. In this way, Korean people's preference for white clothes began with primitive religions, was mixed with various social, cultural and religious influences and finally was settled as their durable spirit, symbol and beauty.
A Study on T-shirt Patterns as Communication and Its Design Application
Kwak Seung-Hee ; Choy Hyon-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 1~16
Clothing not only offers protection for the body and an aesthetic function but also accomplishes a communication role by delivering a message. And symbolic meanings of clothes deliver important information about the wearer. The T-shirt is one of the most popular items of clothing because of its simplicity and utility, In particular, T-shirt patterns, being simple forms, accomplish non-verbal communication directly by making possible the expression of an idea and showing the personality of the wearer. For these reasons, the T-shirt is becoming established as an Important item of clothing that shows one's personality and individuality in modern society. One purpose of this study is to confirm the communication function of fashion and understand that fashion plays an important symbolic role as a means of communication. Another purpose is to see how T-shirt patterns relate to human communication, through studying of widely accepted T-shirt in modern society. The final purpose is to develop a T-shirt design application based on this study and show how T-skirts contribute to expressing one's individuality and deliver ideas about society through clothing. The results of this study are as follows: 1. T-shirt patterns play a part in non-verbal communication. 2. T-shirt patterns have been variously expressed through conditions of society, culture and types of patterns, and formation techniques. 3. The communication function of T-shirt patterns have been classified to 5 categories; publicity, persuasion, solidarity, art, and fashion. 4 T-shirt design patterns were developed and produced. 5. T-shirt patterns could be useful ways to express individuality of oneself today.
Comparative Study of Traditional Costume Succession in South and North Korea - Focus on Transition of Women's Jegory Construction -
Chung Hye-Gyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 17~30
The objectives of this study are to research into the traditional costume succession in south and north korea, and to compare similarity and difference of kinds, names, drawing of Jegory. Conclusions are described as follows: 1. In sort of Jegory, south and north korea have same kind of Jegory according to traditional form. But in making method, south korea have pursued various style from traditional type to modern type, north korea have maintained just simple and practical basic style. 2. South and north korea have used same or similar names for the basic part of Jegory. But north korea has made new names for constructional needs, so many differences were shown in the name of details. 3. In drawing of Jegory, north korea has hold traditional method and then tried to seek for rational, scientific technique. Also, due to the influence of south korea that advanced in modern aesthetic, drawing of Jegory in north korea were changed to similar.
Research about Image Evaluations from Jeans' Finishing -Focus on Undergraduate Students in Los Angeles of the USA-
Lee, Mi-Yeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 18~32
The objectives of this research were to identify the differences of image evaluations by perceiver's gender, majors and jeans' finishing and to examine image characteristics that have an influence on attractiveness and preferences of jeans' finishing. The subjects are 96 undergraduate students in Los Angeles of the USA. Elegant and refined images had a significant effort on perceiver's gender, so men tended to highly evaluate jeans as elegant and refined images than did women. Soft images were recognized differently by perceiver's major, so non-specialists in design tended to highly evaluate jeans as soft images than did specialists in design. In finishing, shattered wash was evaluated as the most individual, attractive, energetic, and splendid images, and stone wash was evaluated as the most ordinary, unattractive, and plain images. Light images tended to have interaction effects by majors and finishing. Specialists in design did not perceive differences between light images from finishing well, but non-specialists in design perceived that stone wash finishing's image is lighter than indigo blue finishing's image. Sociable images had interaction effects by perceiver's gender, majors and jeans' finishing, and especially non-specialists in men estimated that shattered wash has the lowest sociable images in finishing. According to evaluations about finishing images of ladies' jeans, men tended to be attracted by splendid images, and women tended to be attracted by sexy images. In addition, both men and women were commonly attracted by feminine images, so the study found that feminine images is important image for developing jeans for ladies. According to evaluations about finishing images of ladies' jeans, men preferred sexy and natural images to comfortable and energetic images, and women preferred sexy and neat images. Female undergraduate students of the USA tended to be attracted by sexy images, and we found that actually they consider buying jeans with such images.
A Study on the Characteristics of Naturalism in Fashion Design with the Changes of Times
Kim Hee-Yeon ; Kim Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 31~41
The purpose of this study is to formulate a concept of naturalism in fashion and verify the design characteristics found in such designs via reviewing the concept of naturalism and its influence on dress making in different periods in history. The references from various academic fields including philosophy, literature and fine arts were used to examine how the naturalism was formulated over the years. This study was then to identify the naturalistic influences by closely examining various Western dress codes found in literature, publications and actual samples. The results of this study shows that the close examination of naturalism in fashion with the changes of times displayed the complex evolution process over the years, and they were classified by four distinctive categories; Retro, Ecology, Primitive and Ethnic. Naturalism in the contemporary fashion design showed higher frequency of adopting ecological and retro styles, especially retro style adoption being on the rise, combining wide range of partial components of each style. The color usage showed the skewed concentration on YellowRed, Red and Yellow colors with pale, light grayish and grayish tones.
A Study on the Length Variation of the Upper Arm Surface for Early Elementary Schoolgirls
Pae, Eun-Ah ; Jang, Jeong-Ah ; Kwon, Young-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 33~45
This study was to provide the fundamental data for a scientific and rational clothing construction by investigating the length variation of the upper arm surface, using the method of surgical tape, and to understand the expansion and contraction of parts of body for the making of clothing adaptable to movement. The subjects were li early elementary schoolgirls in Busan area classified with three somatotypes, and arm-movements consisted of 6 types. The statistical analyses used in this study were mean, standard deviation and the ANOVA and LSD procedure. The results of the analysis of the length of the upper arm surface are as follows: By arm-movements, in the items of horizontal, upper arm length changed more in the front than in the back, and in the items of vertical, represented the opposite of horizontal items. In the items of upper arm, the anterior-posterior axilla length and under arm length were influenced by arm-movements, and the under length of the upper arm represented the maximum rate increase of 74.59%(3.20cm)
138.72%(4.28cm). In the somatotypes of early elementary schoolgirls, type II was more influenced by arm-movements, and for the making of clothing adaptable to movement, type III needed to reflect more surplus length(2cm) than the other types.
A Study on Ball Joint Doll's Symbolism and Clothing Design
Son Yi-Jeong ; Lee Un-Young ; Lee In-Seong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 42~53
The purpose of this research is to study doll's symbolism representing our social culture and the characteristics of clothing design. The ball joint doll was selected, that are pretty much resembled to human body in terms of facial expression, body proportion, joint movement, etc. Results of research are summarized as follows: the ball joint doll is indicated a doll whose joints are free to move with a round shaped joint, which originated by Yochilya simon, who adopted German Hans Bellmer's method.'rho ball joint doll, first, there appeared state of human isolation due to the material civilization and industrial revolution, and trend of adhering to one's own world made human possess dolls. Second, according to the doll play became a representing play culture among Kidult culture, dolls, that are resembled with human being, were recognized as personalized objects. Third, along of expanding digital culture that makes easy to exchange information via Internet, so, ball joint doll market is growing fast, for which various levels of mania are being formed. Take a look at the doll fashion in modern society. In accordance to form of Look, it is largely categorized Young Casual look, Office look, Ethnic look and Military look. When take a look at design specialty, young casual look was presented as a comfortable silhouette and also made of elastic materials and expressed vivid bright tones. Office look image was expressed as a suit of jacket with skirt, and cotton wool polyester materials and acro-matic colors. Ethnic look was represented by Japanese traditional dress and Chinese traditional clothing. The Military look was generally emphasized army uniforms of straight silhouette and shoulder straps.
The Effect of Perceived Utilitarian Value and Service Quality of Internet Shopping on Repurchase Intention of Fashion Merchandise
Lee, Eun-Jin ; Hong, Byung-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 46~57
The purpose of this study is to analyze whether perceived utilitarian value and service qualify have an effect on repurchase intention of fashion merchandise in internet shopping. A survey was conducted from June 20 to July 30 in 2003, among married women aged in their 20s and 30s, on their purchase experience of fashion merchandise from internet shopping malls. The survey was conducted over the internet with 306 subjects. The statistical analysis methods were frequency analysis, reliability analysis, factor analysis, and multiple regression analysis. The results of this study were as follows. 1. A married women aged in their 20s and 30s were shown to high-purchasing on nightgown, underwear, women's pants, casual wear through internet shopping. Their perceived utilitarian value had an effect on repurchase intention of fashion merchandise in internet shopping. 2. The service quality factors were determined to be site reliability, site reactivity, order assurance, order easy, site organization. Service quality factors of site reactivity, order assurance, order easy, site organization had an effect on repurchase intention of fashion merchandise in internet shopping.
A Study on the Similarity between Porcelain Models of Late Joseon Period and Silhouette of Women's Dress
Jung Ok-Im ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 54~68
This study examined similarity between white porcelain models and dress silhouette of women painted in genre painting in late Joseon period, and found that gourd bottles that are one of main porcelain styles are very similar with dress silhouette of women presented in genre painting in Joseon period; that is, bottle necks of gourd bottles and women's waist, voluminous bottles and erotically full hips, the length of skirts which showed underwear dress and height of porcelain's bottom, waist panel winding slim waist and wide edge of porcelain's mouth. As images are personal mental process of potters who were not socially controlled, they used dress as an indirect means of women's bodies for the subjects of images that are obtained through direct and indirect experiences of the persons who perceive. It indicates that they intended to make their ceramic works express women's dressing style through images of porcelain's models. Such images were sensual, but not superficial. It is suggested that they were influenced by the society which considered ethical experimental mind and practicality of the governing class of that time who enjoyed it metaphorically, but not impudent.
A Study on the Effect of Popular Culture in Modern Fashion -Focused on the Fashion Icon-
Kim, Young-Sam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 58~67
This study of popular culture is in based on an academic point of view and based thereon an investigation of popular culture from a fashion standpoint follows. This study is to suggest that the popular culture theory can be a basic framework to examine the characteristics of fashion Icon and to verify that the characteristics of Fashion Icon is similar to the codes of the popular culture of today, This study considers the characteristics of popular culture as commercialism, mass-media relationship and a symbolic interaction. The images of movie stars projected through diverse entertainment media are the very fashion icons and strong role models that are copied by consumers. Now, the public take the lead in cultural industry, and they create new images as positive receivers of the images of fashion icons, not as mere imitators or followers. Fashion irons have contributed to diversifying the styles of ideal feminine beauty, and their lift pattern and image are one of the major sources to stir up the imagination and inspiration of people. Thus, the times, fashion and entertainment media have continued to evolve, closely affecting one another, and fashion icons play a role of fashion leader, through entertainment media, who takes the initiative in mass fashion without just being confined to the field of entertainment. This study meaningful from the aspect that discussion of popular culture has been placed in a position that recognizes the entity of and interest in popular culture. through this study, I hope that the scope of interest in Fashion design will expand and that approaches to popular culture will become more diversified.
Evolution for Construction of Trousers in the Western World -during the 17th and 18th centuries-
Kim, Yang-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 68~84
The aim of this study is to examine a structure of trousers worn by males in the western world during the 17th and 18th centuries in order to understand the characteristics of evolution in construction. it mainly examined engravings from these era because they provided me fine and detailed portrayals of what it needed to observe. Then, it classified them into models according to each era. it supplemented a flaw of depending on single type of studying material by examining other types of historical materials such as historical paintings and documents for comparative analysis of materials and decorations and previous studies on preserved historical documents to observe the examples of structures of trousers. Secondly, it studied both historical documents and previous studies on the trousers patterns used back in those days, analyzed the characteristics of each designing method by actually draping these patterns, and observed the differences in these completed patterns to understand the characteristics of changes in fashion design skill. As for the changes in length, these patterns show only a slight difference around above and below the knee line. However, the widths of waist, hip, girth and hem were significantly altered over the years to reduce wrinkles and the cutting lines became more refined to make the clothes fit to the body. As a result, a simple but fine patterning technique was born. In particular, new methods in cutting and sewing were invented for detailed parts such as waist, pocket, front and slit.
A Study on the Settlement of Official Uniform under the Reign of King Taejong in the Early Joseon
Chun Hea-Sook ; Ryoo Jae-Woon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 69~78
In the early Joseon when royal authority was not still firmly established, King Taejong, or Lee Bang Won tried to make their political position guaranteed through relationships with Ming, making efforts to develop relations with the Chinese nation positively. This political orientation towards Ming by of the king Taejong was also clearly reflected in the settlement of official uniform in the early Joseon, which can be described as follows. Gaoming(誥命), Yinxin(印信) and Mianfu(冕服) granted by Ming for the first time since the foundation of Joseon suggested that the Chinese nation recognized the formal settlement of Joseon dynasty and the inauguration of King Taejong. presumedly, the grants played a critical role in the firm establishment by King Taejong of his royal authority under unstable political conditions. Under the reign of King Taejong, Joseon tried to abolish ancient regime and, instead, accept systems and institutions of Ming as it maintained smooth relations with the Chinese nation. King Taejong whose royal authority was locally deemed lack in legitimacy and morality wanted to receive the moral recognition of his reign. So the monarch tried to not only strengthen his authority, but also take in advanced culture and civilization through submissive diplomatic relations with Ming. This was a practical diplomatic strategy that was clearly discriminated from toadyism. It was a policy towards Ming, pursuing substantial national benefit. Therefore, official uniform system under the reign of King Taejong should be understood accordingly.
A Study on the Literary Lyricism as Aesthetic Sense in Japanese Costume -Focusing on its Formation and Development-
Huh Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 79~95
The relationships between costumes and literature are the remarkable characteristics in the history of Japanese costumes. Among them, the literary designs which have literary subject matters seem unique to Japan. In Japan, the history of the literary design traces far back and its examples are abundant in various literatures in the Heian era. It is particularly notable that the literary designs take a relatively large part of Kosode pattern in the pre-modern period, the Edo era, which can be cleary seen in Kosodehinagata-bon, a collection of Kosode pattern of those era, in addition to various sources of extant relics or paintings. These literary designs lie the tradition of the literary lyricism as aesthetic sense in the japanese costume history. The literary lyricism means the lyrical mood evoked by literature. The purpose of this study is to examine how the literary lyricism which has supported those literary designs was formed and developed. The literary designs on costumes related with the relationships between literature and formative art, for example painting. Those typical example, which started in the literature tournament, utaawase, was devised for matching up with the character of the assembly. They continued as a sort of the intellectual amusements. In the pre-modern period, the literary designs developed In relation to not only subject matters but those expression. Moreover, it shows the extremely typical example that a series of Kosodehiinagata-bons, consisted solely of literary designs, was enjoyed as a device of reading materials like poem anthology.
A Study on the Architectural Paradigms expressed in Fashion since 1990s -Focusing on the Similarity of Spatial Construction Systems-
Yang, Hee-Young ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 85~100
Fashion related with architectural paradigms includes concept of the space utilization beyond fashions field. Such a fashions concept is able to enlarge as a spatial system like architecture. Interface between fashion and architecture is originated in thinking of the rhizome, which understands fashions field within various relationships between environment of the city and fashion. The existing construction systems of fashion is not sufficient in fashions roles as the space that wearing changing body continuously. Consequently, accommodation of architectural paradigms in fashion depends on new recognition about function and space. Architectural paradigms expressed in fashion since 1990s was classified as follows: 1 modular system of Le Corbusier & Archigram, 2 deconstruction, 3 reconstruction, 4 nomadic architecture. Such a paradigms has been easy to combination among fashion and architecture and furniture. Deconstruction and reconstruction fashion revealed process toward completion, and reappeared architectural consideration about process of change toward incompletion. There are acknowledged formative characteristics as follows: mobility, changeability, multi-function, mutual combinative, openness, and fluidity. This study shows that fashion is essential device determined city environment construction in 21C, and revels that fashion has been highlighted as a presage of new spatial economy received architectural construction systems.
A Study about Femme Fatale Style Makeup in the Movie Chicago
Park Jung-Hae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 96~104
The purpose of this study is to analyze the makeup done to two female protagonists in the film, 'Chicago,' and explore how this makeup - nonverbal communication means - is realized in the area of makeup presentation for femme fatale and how it is societally accepted. Makeup varies by the femme-fatale types, and the general female population can apply these for images they want to express. In the future research, it might be interesting to examine specifically which femme-fatale images are preferred in Korea and the makeup and clothing of Korean stars who primarily influence these images.
A Study on the Characteristics of Fashion Paradigm According to Changing Convergence Culture
Kim, Mi-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 101~114
The purpose of this study was to delve into the features of paradigm in conjunction with changing convergence culture in the 21st century's knowledge-based society, the influence of convergence paradigm on fashion, and changes in convergence culture. After identifying the features of the paradigm of knowledge-based society in association with changing convergence culture, the characteristics of fashion paradigm were examined in con=junction with the characteristics of the paradigm, and the convergence phenomena of modern fashion were investigated to figure out fashion trends. The findings of the study were as follows: According to the features of ubiquitous technology based on the theories of Mark Weiser and other futurologists, the characteristics of changing convergence culture in knowledge-based society could be classified into invisibility, relationship and materialized virtuality. When relevant theories were reviewed, invisibility, relationship and materialized virtuality are identified as the unique features of the paradigm of changing convergence culture in knowledge-based society. But those characteristics aren't separate concepts. Instead, they are being connected and fused together, thanks to universalized digital technology and ubiquitous technology. Changing convergence culture has brought a change to fashion paradigm as well. There is a type of design that lets all the characteristics stand out, and another design fuses just some of them together conceptually or formally. That is, fashion paradigm is marked by a combination of invisibility, relationship and an embodiment of virtual reality to be in line with changes in convergence culture.
A Study on the Retro Technology Fashion Design with Floral Patterns -through CAD-
Jung Mi-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 105~120
Today's radical change of environment and technology spreaded high-technology art by cutting across a general idea of art, expressed machine aesthetic in fashion style by influencing materials and production processes of fashion. The purpose of this research is to take another look at the value and the importance of ornaments in terms of fashion design, to overcome the negative aspect of Technology Fashion by designing Retro Technology Fashion that harmonizes reason with sensibilities through floral patterns. The results of this study are as followings. 1. If Retro technology Fashion was analyzed by time and space element that are postmodernism techniques, there are Ethnic Technology Fashion that are based on space and historical Technology Fashion that are based on time. In terms of spare element, there is the hybrid of revival of exotic folklore with Technology fashion. In terms of time element, there is the hybrid of costumes of before 20th Century with Technology Fashion. It means unifying detail or silhouette of costumes of ancient time to modern time wit Technology Fashion. For another time element, the hybrid of retro fashion after 20th Century with Technology Fashion. The retro nostalgia is revived by the floral patterns or silhouette of Hippie fashion unified with Technology Fashion. 2. Based on above research, Retro Technology Fashion with floral pattern on CAD were designed. As the results, for Ethno Fashion that is spatial retro, 'Asian Technology fashion' was designed with bright colors, China collar that are oriental, and vinyl material. For historical Technology fashion that are based on time, 'Space Middle Age' was designed with tight silhouette, party colored pants and plastic material.
A Study on the Analysis of Aesthetic Shape Shown on the Modern Flat Patterned Clothing
Kwen, Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 115~125
The study on plane composition in clothing was focused mainly on woven wear earlier but its application has been reaching the knit wear. This study is confined to the utilization with geometrical linear pattern in the modern apparel. The work here intends to grasp the plane structure found in both woven wear and knit wear and, in particular, to understand the aesthetics of fashion. The modern flat patterned clothing has been affected by the oriental style or postmodernism in view of social and cultural aspect while its fabric material and expression method shows the diversity in terms of industrial and technical aspect. It can be characterized as several outstanding patterns: the geometrical pattern in structure, the linear pattern with seam line and 2-dimensional plane pattern without seam line, and the flexible silhouette integrated into one single shape with human body unlike the traditional apparel The aesthetics of fashion in modern flat patterned clothing can be divided into such category as the organically spatial change, the re-creation of tradition and the non-format framework. The organically spatial change shows the geometrical formation in clothes due to change in dimension, where the organically changing uniformity and generosity appears as the dimension progresses. The timeless without any difference of up and down, left and right, and inside and outside and the discontinuity due to limitless spatial change are also imbedded. The re-creation of tradition tells the reshaped spirits of old tradition by integrating and modifying the hereditary features in the old customed clothing into modern clothing. The modern flat patterned clothing implies the contemporaneousness or the frame through which the old and modern cultures may be shared and indicates the re-creation of the past and uniformity. The non-format framework contains the uncertainty in meaning and it doesn't have any certain standards. As both the apparel and the human body with this style aim at the open space, the numerous contingencies are realized.
A Basic Study of Pattern Alteration for People with Body Deformities -Focusing on the Brain Injured Handicapped-
Na Hyun-Shin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 121~132
The feeling of self-confidence, the sense of well-being and of social acceptance that comes from the wearing clothes that is functional, appropriate, and attractive, is important to all the people, but to those with physical limitations, it is much more important. Finding well-fitting clothing can be a big challenge for them. This study focus on the cut of present available ready-to-wear garments and commercial patterns giving better fit and greater comfort and satisfaction. Subjects were limited to the people with body deformities caused by the brain injury. This can also meet the needs of silver groups in the aging society under the terms of human values and human rights. This study is based on the questionaires and interviews to identify the problems of ready-to-wear or commercial patterns, purchasing behaviors, and the demand for the functional clothes. This study focused on following objectives; 1) to discover what the problems are which confront the people with body deformity, 2) to find the problems in ready-to-wear garments or commercial patterns, 3) to provide information of pattern alteration f3r people with body deformities. A major limitation to the study is that the subjects numbers are limited and the distribution is not even. For the future study, large database with wide varieties of age and fitting test are suggested.
Representation of the Body in Fashion -Focusing on the Representation of Physicality-
Yim, Eun-Hyuk ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 126~141
Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing farm, my study develops a framework by which to classify the representation of the body in fashion focusing on the representation of physicality. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in representing body in fashion, my study examines subjects from the 14th century European costumes to fashion collections of the 20th century. In fashion, representation of the body is visually analogous to the ideal body shape and structure, including a realistic presentation of the body as well as reflection of aesthetic ideals. Representation of physicality refers to structural designs and elastic fabrication. Structural designs appeared in tailoring and bias-cut draping, as well as in stretchy clothes such as Lycra body suit and knit garments that highlights the body structure and movements of the body joints. In representing physicality in fashion, clothing forms reflect body silhouette and each body parts. Therefore, the shape of clothes (signifiant) corresponds to the anatomy and movement of the body (
) in pursuit of aptness. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.
Traditional Indian Textile Design found in 21 st Century Fashion
Choi Ho-Jeong ; Ha Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 133~147
This paper deals with utilization of traditional Indian textile design found in 21st century fashion. It examines the decoration of the traditional Indian textile design which inspires and widely adopted in the modern fashion design, and the immanent meaning of the traditional pattern. This paper also analyzes the trend of its utilization in the modern fashion design. In order to examine variety of Indian textile design and its modernization, the Indian ethnic dresses found in 21st century western designer collections were compared with the Indian traditional textile design adopted by Indian fashion designers. The result of the study shows followings : Firstly, the typical traditional decoration in Indian textile design contains plangi, chintz, ikat, roghan and embroidery (mirror-work), and the traditional Indian patterns are roughly divided into natural pattern, plant pattern, animal pattern and geometric pattern. Secondly, comparison of 203 fashion items of world top 4 collections with 422 fashion items of Indian designer's collections shows that the paisley pattern obtains the majority in western design collections, while the geometric pattern in Indian designer collections. Thirdly, the comparison and analysis of the 21st century western fashion design shows that the traditional Indian textile design is mostly used in the seasonal trend color or is mixed & matched with other patterns. You can also find the feeling of the traditional Indian patterns in some western collections. In Indian designer collections, on the other hand, the traditional Indian patterns are widely used in the manner that they maintain the traditional feeling, while they are reconstructed in modern style.
Bikinis in the United States, from 1946 to the 1960s
Lee, Yhe-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 142~151
Bikini, a brief two-piece bathing suit revealing the wearer's navel, was first introduced in Paris, in 1946. However, it was not until the late 1950s that Americans were ready to adopt bikinis. Therefore, I focused on the following research questions to understand the popularization process of bikinis in the United States, from 1946 to the 1960s: 1. Why were Americans initially hesitant to adopt the bikini? 2. What were the factors that influenced the popularization of the bikini among Americans in the late 1950s? Primary sources including Bazaar. Madmoiselle, Vogue, The New York Times, and Life were reviewed. I referred to secondary sources on the history of fashion and American popular culture to interpret primary sources. According to the primary sources, Americans were hesitant to adopt the bikini, partly due to the excessive demand on the wearer's figure. However, the conservative social atmosphere during Cold War would not accept immorality and obscenity which would threaten America's future. Therefore, the campaigns against the sex industry, which developed prominently after WWII, predominated American society during the 1950s. Under this atmosphere, a small number of pictures and articles on bikinis appeared in the primary sources. Bikinis were only found in advertisements including sun lotions and hair removers. However, American society had to accept the change in sexual mores by the end of the 1930s. Body-revealing fashions including miniskirts, hot pants, and see-through material reflected the change in social convention. By the end of the 1950s, the number of pictures and articles on bikinis also began to increase in the primary sources. More Americans adopted bikinis with the increasing number of private pools and European trips. The vogue of sun-tanning and movies featuring bikinis further contributed to their popularity in the late 1930s and into the 1960s.
Convergence in Fashion Design
Ko Hyun-Zin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 148~162
The purpose of this study is to examine the concept of convergence which is one of the trendy issues as a new digital paradigm of Integrative thinking in 21st century, to analyze the plastic feature and internal meaning of convergence expressed in fashion design, and to grasp the cultural symbolism through this aesthetic analysis. Because there have been considerable discussions on convergence, centering on industrial product area associated with media, I will proceed my study on the basis of them. For this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. This study will be helpful to find a direction of future fashion design trend. Convergence in digital stage can be defined as a phenomenon which different functions of product move towards one direction for greater efficiency, and not only as a technical integration between functions of product, but also an extension of area. Convergence can be classified by their use as (1) convergence for convenient daily life (2) convergence with intelligent scientific technology (3) convergence for entertainment on the basis of sensual experience. The plasticity of convergence designs feature as a open dynamic structure which potentiate transformation and their internal meaning can be inquired such qualities as integrative multiplicity, efficiency, mobility, intelligence. Specially convergence fashion design has protection qualify resulting from wearability on body. Ultimately convergence fashion design as a future digital paradigm can be thought as both eco-friendly design and human-centered design from positive technology-based viewpoint, because it is easy to transform according to our environment, convenient to reserve, and efficient to enhance spatial usibility.
Design Analysis and Apparel Patternmaking of Lingerie Look
Yoon, Jin-Ah ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 56, issue 7, 2006, Pages 152~166
The purpose of this study was to make patterns for lingerie look after examining expressive characteristics and constructive elements of lingerie look. As underwear became outerwear, position of wearing, materials, and details had changed, and the phenomenon to expose one's body has increased. The constructive elements found in the lingerie look were classified into silhouette, fastening, dart, and cutting line. Many of corset looks revealed cutting lines such as diagonal, perpendicular, and horizon. Brassiere look used perpendicular rutting lines or horizontal cutting lines passing through the bust point in order to highlight the volume by adding darts. There were styles Of chemise looks that used princess lines or separately added a brassier on the breast. Based on the examination of the elements, a total of four apparel works were created, including one flat pattern and three draping patterns. With new infra-apparel designs and patterns, this study was able to artificially highlight the body and express the beauty of costume through revelation of body. In addition, it explored the possibility that the phenomenon that underwear becomes outerwear may be a new idea of dress designing.