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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 57, Issue 10 - Dec 2007
Volume 57, Issue 9 - Nov 2007
Volume 57, Issue 8 - Sep 2007
Volume 57, Issue 7 - Aug 2007
Volume 57, Issue 6 - Jul 2007
Volume 57, Issue 5 - Jun 2007
Volume 57, Issue 4 - May 2007
Volume 57, Issue 3 - Mar 2007
Volume 57, Issue 2 - Mar 2007
Volume 57, Issue 1 - Jan 2007
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Cinema Costume for the 'TITANIC'
Lee, Hea-Kyoung ; Chung, Heung-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 1~16
This study is to design costumes of each characters, seen in the film of 'TITANIC' directed by James Cameron in 1997, by analyzing various costumes for each roles in the film. The 'TITANIC' has got the 'Oscar Award' in 1998 in 11 sectors for its' high box office record and the finest of the work, based on successful visualization of the costumes for the contemporary characters by historical research. The social background of 'TITANIC' would be presumed in the year of 1912, of which era was also called by 'La Belle Epoque', to say, 'good period'. This study, therefore, traced the representative art trend for the 1910's, together with political, economical and social backgrounds as 1st step. The 2nd step is the consideration of fashion trends of costume affected by the contemporary trends such as Art Nouveau and Art Deco in the period. The 3rd step is the analysis of costumes in the film of 'TITANIC'. Finally, this work has designed the virtual costumes of the characters, in imaginary scenes, which could denote the nature of the personality. Hopefully, this study could help designers show sustainable development in creating cinema costumes and other related projects, based on the understandings of this work.
The Study of Japanese Traditional Beauty Elements on a Japanese Modern Fashion "Focusing on the Iki, Tsu, Wabi, Sabi"
Chika, Sasaki ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 17~27
The goal of the study was to research how the japanese fashion effects on the japanese fashion's current. This study was processed by the 'wabi', 'sabi', 'tsu', and 'iki' which were the foundation and core of the japanese traditional culture. This study also investigated the japanese style to help the recognizing of traditional design which needed for internationalization and informational periods. The review of related literature is presented under the following headings : (a) japanese culture, (b) japanese beauty, (c) japanese style, (d) japanese fashion designer. Conclusively, Japan complete unique design of world by on the basis of own tradition and beauty of japan which were revealed on the their common daily life. So To help there cognizing of traditional design which needed for internationalization and informational periods, fashion designer of the world must research the meaning of the trend and motive power of the world fashion, base on the cultural back ground of their country. And for this, the grounding educational curriculums for fashion designer include the process which can promote awareness of their country's culture, tradition, and beauty.
The Study on the Image of a Woman's Body Exposure Expressed in Modern Fashion
Kim, Sun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 28~38
This study is on the image of a woman's body exposure, expressed in various situations or images in the modern fashion. The results of this study can be summarized as the following. First, either the exposure or stress of a woman's specific body parts like breast, waist, hips, or legs which can be sensed totally different from man's or the ironic disclosure of body parts always lapped around emphasizes femininity by giving full play the unique sexual beauty of a woman's body. Second, the desire of disclosure to have others' attention with the concealment as suggestive exposure expresses the eroticism. The modified eroticism is found different from the conventional concept and is based on the desire to make others notice one's existence continually by the sexual exposure dress particularly to entire the other sex, the dismantlement of changing an underwear to an outer-dress, and so forth. Third, both exposure of a woman's sexual body parts and expression of exposure to the utmost by laying a woman's entire body bare can mean sex liberty in the laissez-faire generation. This may suggest a pleasure-oriented way of thinking of the self-consolation rather than showing others, or feature the personality and the liberty endowed women with.
A Classification of the Types of Seon Expressed in Costume of Worldly Figures Illustrated in Koryo Buddhist Paintings
Ok, Myung-Sun ; Park, Ok-Lyun ; Lee, Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 39~49
The purpose of this study is to analyze characteristics of each of the types of Seon which was expressed in costume of worldly figures illustrated in Koryo Buddhist paintings. The types of 'Seon' are largely classified into Standard and Application types. Among these types, standard type are reclassified into the types of same color and no pattern, different color and no pattern, same color and pattern and different color and pattern. And Application type is reclassified into the types of Buseon, wrinkle, feather and leaf, Regarding styles of Seon, most costumes for men and women used Seon of Standard style, especially that of different color and no pattern style. In addition, costumes for men more often used Seon of Standard style, especially that of different color and pattern style. While, costumes far women more often used Seon of application style, especially that of feather or wrinkle style. Seon was practically used to reinforce the edge of clothes, whether for men or women, and at the same time, and at the same time decorated the clothes brilliantly. In regard to aesthetic qualities of clothes in accordance with types of Seon, clothes having Seon of same color and no pattern type was natural and simple and different color and no pattern type, artificial and simple, same color and pattern type, natural and brilliant and different color and pattern type, artificial and brilliant. And costumes having Seon of Buseon type was decorative and simple, wrinkle type, sophisticated and dynamic, feather type, voluminous and dynamic and leaf type, brilliant and dynamic.
Aesthetics of Japanese Avant-garde Fashion -Focusing on Planarization of the Body-
Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 50~65
Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. In order to inquire the formative style and aesthetic values expressed in Japanese avant-garde fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Japanese avant-garde fashion focuses on a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, participation of the wearer, attention to recent technology and material, and absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body in Japanese avant-garde fashion. The absence of body in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body Ultimately, planarization of the body betrays the correspondence between signifiant and signifie in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in Japanese avant-garde fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.
The Study on the Symbol of Girl Characters Depicted in Hayao Miyazaki's Animation -Focused in the Girl Heroines of Studio Ghibli as the Central Figure-
Choe, Bo-Young ; Lee, In-Seong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 66~82
This study has analyzed the main works of Hayao Miyazaki, a great master of Japanese animation, and inquired into the internal and external feature of characters depicted in his works. The creation of animation character starts from non-being in the planning step and becomes an important medium which will contain the story and the subject of drama. Therefore it's possible to analogize what he intends to represent through the identity, role and external feature of characters appeared in Hayao Miyazaki's animation. As a result of analyzing these external features, the message pursued by Hayao Miyazaki shows diversified girl character unlike the existing one of Japanimation, the girl characters in his works are sometimes sexless, sometimes androgynous, but they take the role to show the intention of director and to settle matters through new femininity free from any frame. In addition, the story of drama and other components show that the Japanese-typed is being sublimated worldwide with fantasy world through oriental appearance of girl character and various color symbols.
Make-up Trend in the Haute Couture Collections -Focusing on Christian Dior after 2003 S/S-
Park, Sun-Hee ; Im, Young-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 83~92
The modern society has been experiencing a cultural quickening that is accompanied by the rapid social, political and economical changes. In the dim chaos where the future is uncertain, the modern women are gradually discovering the value and meaning of their existences in the society. The fashion and make-up Christian Dior presented in the Haute Couture collections suggest us various genres from which the remarkable creative and artistic accomplishments canbe found. This study is to examine the characteristics of make-up techniques used by Christian Dior for the Haute Couture collections after 2003 S/S. The conclusion of this study is as follows. The make-up trend in the Haute Couture collections suggest that the make-up today is not simply to decorate a face beautifully. The make-up has become a new art form for the modern women to express their various originality and creativity while linking it to the social and cultural elements.
The Study on the fabrics of Gilt-Bronze Shoes Found at the Tomb of King Mu-Ryeong of Baekje
Cho, Hyo-Sook ; Lee, Eun-Jin ; Jeon, Hyun-Sil ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 93~104
This study is considered about the fabrics culture of Baekje Period by analyzing the fabrics pieces at a inner part of the It-bronze shoes found at the tomb of King Mu-ryeong in 1971 AD. The analysis methods of the fabrics pieces are a photographing of fabrics pieces surface by VMS, Digital camera(Nikon Coolpix 995) and the analysis of samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. It is assumed this fabrics pieces are the inner shoes, which consisted of compound woven silk at outward, some of tabby and a hemp at inward and the braids for decoration, of the gilt-bronze shoes. The features are as follows. 1. All of compound woven silk are the warp-faced compound tabby of plain fabrics and the density is various from high to low one. Compound woven silk which is attached the gilt-bronze shoes of the tomb of King Mu-ryeong weaves in high density by a thick thread. The fibers material of compound woven silk prove to be a silk by the analysis of wrap samples by SEM, XRD and FT-IR. 2. Tabby are excavated under the condition which attached on reverse side of compound woven silk. Those ran classify two types. First, the fine weaving by high density of wrap and weft. Second, the loose warp weaving with one warp and some of weft. 3. Hemp is almost ramie by SEM analysis and the density is different. Ramie which supposed to be attached Guem has the very low density. In addition to, Ramie pieces, excavated in condition and weaved finely, proved the conspicuous weaving skill in Baekje period. 4. Various kinds of braid are found and these ones classifies by fiber material and entwining way. Two types out of these are the one of silk thread, decorates the upper, middle parts of compound woven silk shoes and the other of hemp thread, decorates the lower parts.
A Study on the Influence of Courtesy of Avoidance of the Opposite Sex on Costume -Focused on Costumes of Man and Woman in the Late Chosun Dynasty-
Lee, Kyung-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 105~117
The purpose of this study is to help the understanding the characteristics in the costumes of men and women throughout the overall acceptance process of 'Naewaebub' in the late 'Chosun Dynasty' in which the notion of 'Naewae' is more prosperous than any other period in Korean history. Originally the distinction between man and woman was not intended to display the high and the low but to show the mutual respect according to each duty. As time goes on, that ideal became gradually changed to heighten the man and lower the women especially in 'Han' period of China. There was the ideal of distinction in the ancient times in Korea. Until 'Koryo Dinasty' the community has the system of blood-tied that put together maternal and paternal. 'Karye' was introduced in the late 'Koryo Dynasty' and accepted to the stereotype of morale in the 'Chosun Dynasty' and there seemed to be 'Samgang' and 'Oryun' at once. Many restrictions was imposed to behavior in women like rules of prohibition in attending the temple and concealment of woman's face and was recognized to rule of distinction between man and woman. Confucian life custom has been settled to Korean society throughout the late 16th century and 17th century and there were some appearances in the housing construction which divide the residences of man and woman. The characteristics in the costume from the avoidance of opposite sexes are clear in the structure of clothes changed from similar style to different style. The examples of those characteristics are as fellows. The costume in man was developed to advanced 'Pyoun-bokkwan' and 'Pyounbokpo' as social action of man prospered. Meanwhile the trousers which had been the same in the man and woman were separated to different trousers between man and woman. The costume life style of woman was changed to using the a hair whirl, hiding the face in the street and overlapping the innerwear under the skirt which was extension of woman's closed life style in late 'Chosun Dynasty'.
Fashion Journalism Expressed in Vogue USA
Nahm, Soo-Hyun ; Ha, Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 118~129
Overflowing of fashion information that is derived from the development of various mass media has rather hindered adopters from appropriately screening fashion information. Thus, responsibilities of fashion journalists who play a role of communicating fashion information have become heavier. Fashion journalism may be defined as 'delivery of modes and involvement in production and logistics'. Since it connects fashion and culture industries with the public by reflecting fashion from diversified perspectives, the role of fashion journalism should never be overlooked in terms of culture as well as industry. This study analyzes fashion journalism from fashion-advanced country by reviewing the fashion journalism from the US, which is so-called fashion-advanced country and analyzing the contents of Vogue USA. This study made a historical review of fashion journalism through a reference study, and from a total of 24 volumes of Vogue USA from January 2004 through December 2005 classified articles by functions, tones, contents, and brands, pictorial records by functions, images, and brands, and ads by brands, quantitatively analyzing them. Further, through a case study it explored those articles and pictorial records which featured national characteristics in the USA, and examined how the fashion journalism in the USA imaged the fashion in the country. In addition, it tried to elicit the characteristics of fashion in the USA as a conclusion by categorizing those images while reviewing previous studies. The results show that Vogue USA features American fashion definitely. Thus, consequently it is easy to find images of American fashion in pictorial records, let alone categorizing them.
A Study on the Formative Characteristics of the Pleats Expressed in Modern Fashion -Focusing on the Thought of G.W.Leifniz and G.Deleuze-
Yang, Hee-Young ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 130~146
Thought of postmodernism accepted between variety and differentiation is characterized by variability and indeterminacy aimed at continuous change. For that reason, modern fashion has been grouping a lot of manners for creation of the various different form and structure. This paper studies the characteristics of the folding system, which expands efficiency of the spatial utility and shows various forms. Folding system expressed in modern fashion could be divided the pleats, which were made of the folding, and the dreaperies, which were made of bending. This selects the pleats as a enlarged concept of the folding system that contains between the former and the letter. Pleats did not mean two dimensional folding surfaces, but three dimensional spatial structures. For understanding of the folding system as a three dimensional spatial structure, this is utilized with the thought of the 'le pli' of G.W.Leifniz and G.Deleuze. The pleats expressed in modern fashion can subdivided into 4 sets; crinkle system, origami system, fractal pleats by folding system, and drapery system. And Formative characteristics of the pleats are analyzed with enlargement, fluidity, deconstruction, irregularity.
A Wearing Conditions of Caregivers' Uniform -Focusing on Women Caregivers in Medical Welfare Facilities for the Aged-
Lee, Eun-Young ; Kim, Eun-Kyong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 147~162
The purpose of this study is to grasp the inconvenience and problems with caregivers' uniforms and preferred designs by examining the wearing conditions of these uniforms in medical welfare facilities for the aged. To attain this purpose, a questionnaire was completed by direct observation and by interviewing caregivers in specialized hospitals for the aged and those engaged in nursing and then a preliminary examination was carried out. The questionnaire was given to 228 caregivers. Following are the results of this research. It was found that the caregivers in medical welfare facilities for the aged were women in their 50s, wearing primarily a size 77 uniform. It was revealed that when the caregivers bathe patients, they usually get wet from the knees to the bottom part of their pants and many of them (61.2%) change both their tops and pants after giving a bath. The caregivers said that every part of the tops of existing uniforms, except the armpits, were a little large or too long. It turned out that the area of the armpits, the front buttons, crotch, hip area, and knees are mostly the areas that readily wear out in the uniforms. It was reported that the uncomfortable parts in the uniforms a.e the armpits, shoulders, and the front adjusting parts of the tops and the hips, thighs, and the crotches of the pants. The material for the uniforms have problems in ventilation, fluffing, absorption of sweat, and permeation of odor.
The Characteristics and Weaving Method of Textiles in Daegaya Period
Park, Yoon-Mee ; Jeong, Bok-Nam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 163~175
This study examines 74 pieces of textiles of Daegaya found in the Jeesan-dong Tomb and Saeng-cho Tomb, and analyzes their characteristics and weaving techniques. Dagaya is known to have produced ramie and hemp from bast fibers. The hemp textiles were all woven in plain weave, and the ramie textiles were woven either in plain weave or plain braid. The ramie textiles were slightly more dense compared to the hemp textiles, however, both had average densities between 0.92 to 0.93, showing that they are balanced plain weave textiles. It was also found that S twist threads were used in the production of the hemp and ramie textiles. The dyed textiles on iron remains were found to be the oldest textiles to use dying techniques for patterns. Silk textiles were woven in plain weave, twill weave, and leno weave. All of the silk were made with non-twisted thread. The densities were between 30 to 58.3 and the the density rates were 1.0 to 2.5 for plain weave silk, this showed that varieties of plain weaver created by different densities of warp and well. The average density of cho was
the density rate was about 2.40, therefore warp was woven more dense compared to the weft. There were degummed and raw silk used in silk textiles, but most of them were found to be degummed thread.
A Study on the Design of Historical Costume for Making Movie & Multimedia -Focused on Rich Women's Costume of Goryeo-Yang and Mongol-Pung in the 13th to 14th Century-
Choi, Hai-Yaul ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 1, 2007, Pages 176~186
The purpose of this study is to reconstruct upper class women's costume of 'Mongol-pung' and 'Goryeo-yang' in a civilization-exchanged period between Mongolia and Korea, for making movie or soap opera costume and historical animation. 'Mongol-pung' was a cultural influence from Mogolia to Korea. For example, sleeveless bi-gap(比甲) and half-sleeved dap-ho(搭忽) were put on by many women at that time. On the basis of old literature, I suggest a 'Mongol-pung' costume as a set of seeran-chulrik(膝欄 terlig), em-broidered bigap, dapho of meat-red color for women. 'Goryeo-yang' was a cultural influence from Korea to Mongolia. Due to old poem of Yuan, 'Short outer Jacket with square neckline, half sleeves, and clear color(方領過腰半臂)' was a representative of 'Goryeo-yang' in Mongolian royal women's costumes. Many women were dressed in it with short inner jacket and wide skirt. In the case of making soap opera costume, the budget of broadcasting station, appearence of nowaday's actor and actress, similarity between old fabric and modern fabric must be considered altogether.