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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 57, Issue 10 - Dec 2007
Volume 57, Issue 9 - Nov 2007
Volume 57, Issue 8 - Sep 2007
Volume 57, Issue 7 - Aug 2007
Volume 57, Issue 6 - Jul 2007
Volume 57, Issue 5 - Jun 2007
Volume 57, Issue 4 - May 2007
Volume 57, Issue 3 - Mar 2007
Volume 57, Issue 2 - Mar 2007
Volume 57, Issue 1 - Jan 2007
Selecting the target year
A Study of Characteristics of CHAV Fashion
Yang, Sook-Hi ; Yun, Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 1~10
The 21th century is the time-area where knowledge, information and culture are considered as the pivotal factor for keeping society. Thus, this affects every part which consists of culture. By 2000, various cultural changes create several culture trends all over the world. Above all, advent of CHAV is the remarkable cultural phenomenon because of its life style, fashion and self-awareness. This study analyzes CHAV's life style and fashion based on regarding it as subordinate culture. In terms of these aspects, CHAV's fashion can be divided into three parts by its inner and outer traits. The first is merrymaking style which is composed of combination, parody and excessive decoration of different factors. This is a kind of Pop-Art style that imitates mass consuming culture. The second is ostentation style which emphasizes CHAV's traits and acts group behavior. The third is violence style. CHAV tries to appear violent and indifferent for gaining their rights and power. As a result, CHAV is the rebounding phenomenon that means psychological fear and conflict which neglected people have to resist official authority.
A Study on the Sexuality Expressed in Modern Fashion - Focusing on the Feminism
Lee, Ji-Hyoun ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 11~23
The purpose of this study is to express the sexuality of feminism in the modern fashion. As for the methods of research, literary research was carried out using reference based on feminism history and sexuality concept and demonstrative analysis was undertaken using 2000's collections photographs. In the results of that, the sexuality of gender resistance feminism is featured by three key words: sado-masochism sexuality, bi sexuality and hetero sexuality. First, sado-masochism sexuality shows fetish look and dominatrix look shown in the strong attitudes. Sado-masochism sexuality is setting fetishes such as mask, whip, chain, metallic materials and tight leather boots. Second, bi sexuality presents mannish look of soft and feminie style's slim pants suit with ruffle, flounce and decorated detail blouse. and fetish look wearing of sexual symbol clothes such as corset and bustier. Third, hetero sexuality represent glamour look which exposure and emphasis of breasts, hips and other sexual symbols.
Characteristics of the Excavated Fabrics from unknown Woman's Tomb, Incheon
Cho, Hyo-Sook ; Bae, Soon-Wha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 24~34
The purpose of this study is to examine the pieces of 100 fabrics excavated from unknown woman's tomb Incheon, by analyzing woven methods, names of the fabrics, the kinds and the shapes of the patterns. The characteristics to assume the period of the fabrics are as follows. The geumsundan which was woven peacock insignia at chest and back area was excavated for the first time from the tomb of Joseon. Peacock insignia woven with satin weave using supplementary golden wefts, wrapped gold thread. These kind of fabrics were usually imported in the
century, according to the old documents, 'Nogeoldae' 'Joseonwangjosilrok' written at the end of Goryeo or early in Joseon. Thus, these relics are from about
century. From this tomb, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie are excavated. According to another excavated cases, the mixture fabric of cotton and ramie appears from the period before the Japanese Invasion of Korea in 1592, and after the invasion, there are usually mixture fabric of cotton and silk. This also tells that these fabrics show the characteristics of those from the early period of Joseon Dynasty. The rounded patterns of Jangot is only shown from the fabrics of late Goryeo Dynasty, and the cloud pattern of an upper garment with a squared neckline is shown from the early Joseon Dynasty. So, the patterns from these excavated costumes are ranged from the late Goryeo Dynasty to the early Joseon Dynasty. To assume the period through the overall study above, these relics show the characteristics of the
The Analysis of Body Type of Chinese Women by the Body Index - Focusing on the residental district & specific markets -
Kim, Eun-Hee ; Sohn, Hee-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 35~49
This study aims at strengthening the national competitiveness of Korea's clothing industry as it provides substantial information on type characteristics and body types for Chinese women and improves the fitness of clothing, considering human proportion in the production of clothing products for export to China. It divides the group by residental district and specific markets. It analyzes the part proportion of body types by each group. This selected specimen as 1,381 of Chinese women from 19 to 50 selected in random sampling in Shanghai and Beijing from 23th, June to 7th August in 2004. 1. Beijing women have long head length of 7.04 in proportion while Shanghai women have short head length of 7.14 in proportion. 2. For 19-24 years old women, head-to-height ratio (HHR) is 7.14, while 24-34 years old women and 35-50 years old women are 7.04 and 7.09 respectively.
The Classification of Elderly Men's Feet - With the Three-dimensional Body Scanner Data of Size Korea -
Seok, Hye-Jung ; Park, Ji-Eun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 50~59
This study has been conducted to classify elderly men's feet with the three-dimensional body scanner data of Size Korea. It was intended to assist the manufacturing of the shoes that can appropriately perform the functions of feet, by providing the specific information about the shapes of elderly men's feet that are altered as a result of aging and shoe-wearing for a long time. The findings are as follows. 1. The investigations into the average and standard deviation of the measurements and index values for the elderly men's feet showed a large personal difference in the items of length and circumference. 2. The factors constituting the elderly men's feet were observed to be the size of foot width(Factor 1), the central angle of feet and the extension of toes(Factor 2), the size of ankle(Factor 3), the positions of lateral malleolus and pternion(Factor 4), and the position and size of medial malleolus(Factor 5). 3. The cluster analysis for the classification of elderly men's feet produced three types of them.
The Study on the Excavated Geogories in Lady Lee(From HanSan)'s Tomb
Chang, In-Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 60~73
This Study is on the excavated clothing from lady Lee' tomb in spring 2003, on Chungjoo Province. These are significant as the 18th century's real clothing, we examine the real Jegories as possible and the results shows there are two group in sizes. we regard the large Jegori is for the dead as a shroud, the small one is for daily. it shows that Jegori for the dead is about 1.3 larger than a daily one, we can see Jegori for the dead was going to be large from the 18th century, and it's needlework was not fine than daily one, but the Color and the material on should look like as daily in this time, and the motif is cloud pattern, we can see two changes in daily Jegori that one thing is to be short and narrow, the other is to be curve at the corner of collar(Gitmuri), the corner of edge(supco), the below line of sleeve(baerae) in the daily Jegori.
Attitude toward Fashion Cultural Products and Purchase Intention - A Comparison of American, Japanese, and Chinese Who Visited Korea -
Cho, Yun-Jin ; Lee, Yu-Ri ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 74~86
An empirical study was conducted on fashion cultural products, targeting foreigners from diverse cultures. Its purpose was to identify foreigners' attitudes toward fashion cultural products of which design sources were derived from the Korean culture. The quantitative research using questionnaires was targeted at Americans, Chinese and Japanese who visited Korea. The questionnaires were back-translated into different languages for completion by the test subjects. Out of a total of 424 surveys returned, 393 were deemed usable. As a result of data analyses using SPSS 12.0 and AMOS 5.0, we found that: First, two attitude factors, the authenticity and aesthetic elements, exerted a significant effect on the intent to purchase. However, the last attitude factor, care and carriage convenience, did not significantly influence the purchase intention. Second, there was no significant difference in the attributes regarded as important when purchasing fashion cultural product between people from the U.S. and Japan. However, people from China showed differences in the attributes compared to the U.S. and Japan. Third, we found that attitudes toward fashion cultural products were different among respondents of three countries. It was revealed that the Chinese liked Korea's fashion cultural products the most, followed by Americans and Japanese. This research is significant because investigating foreigners' attitudes toward fashion cultural products for reaching out to a broader market abroad would contribute to help building an market entry planning.
A New Paradigm of Fashion Magazine - focusing on the U.S.A. VOGUE -
Oh, Seh-Jung ; Chung, Eun-Sook ; Suh, Dong-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 87~98
The development of mass media in the
century has resulted in the rapid growth of the fashion industry. Fashion magazines like
are performing the function of spreading new styles in addition to simple provision of fashion trend information. Therefore, the present study tracked the trend of changes in the cover models of USA
during the last 10 years
, and examined qualitative and quantitative changes in the contents of USA
for the last 20 years. According to the results,
of cover models were super models during the period from 1997 to 2006, but the percentages of fashion models and celebrities became similar to each other in 2001, and from 2002 to 2006 celebrities occupied around
of cover models. When the contents of USA
were analyzed by category, columns that showed strength in 1986 but decreased gradually until 2006 were style suggestions(p<.001), fashion shooting on the theme of TPO and items(p<.05). Fashion columns that showed weakness in 1986 but increased through the 1990s and until 2006 were celebrity style(p<.05), item introductions(p<.001), shopping information(p<.001), designer interviews(p<.05) and fashion shooting on the theme of mood and celebrity(p<.05). These results suggested that the function of USA
as a fashion magazine was mainly the provision of information on how to wear the new styles in 1986, but nowadays the contents have changed to information on what to buy. In addition, the results show that contents using highly popular celebrity increased rapidly in the 2000s.
A Study on the Actual State of Wearing the Danryung of the Tongshinsa
Shin, Hey-Sung ; Park, Sun-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 99~111
This paper was built by following next steps. First, based on the records of the Tongshinsa, the official diplomatic mission Joseon dispatched to Japan, the actual conditions of wearing a Danryung, a official robe, in the 18th century were researched. Then the difference of wearing state between the missions - in 1719, 1748 and 1764- was found and the reason why was analyzed. In result two distinctions were found: 1) A black Danryung was worn in 1719 at the banquets and while receiving an official letter of reply, but a red Danryung, Gongbok or Sibok on the later trips. 2) In 1764 travel records there was some confusion of the names Gongbok and Sibok, which denote the same item of robes, according to the writer. The reason why those changes and confusion were caused is analyzed as follows: 1) After the Japanese Invasion(1592) and the Manchu Invasion of Joseon(1636), a black Danryung replaced the Gongbok for a while. But after the mid-18th century, when the Gongbok was revived, that was reappeared in the official ceremonies. 2) In the mid-18th century, both Gongbok and Sibok system had been revised. But because both color system was similar, those revision became a cause of confusion between Gongbok and Sibok. For a while all ministers wore red Gongbok and Sibok, but after those revision the color of official's robe was changed by officials' rank: the higher ranking officials' Gongbok and Sibok are red, the lower ranking officials' are bluish green.
A Semiotic Analysis of Costumes in Fantasy Films - With a Focus on the Power Image of Super Heroes -
Rhew, Soo-Hyeon ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 112~128
As fantasy films in which super heroes with superhuman abilities play an active part are rapidly becoming more popular, super hero stories are taking root as a new genre in fantasy films. The costumes in films play an important role in visualizing the virtual reality of fantasy films when those costumes are worn by characters so as to express and define them. In the meantime, in the antagonistic structure of good versus evil as a typical subject in these films, it may be said that the costumes of super heroes who advocate good and those of villains who represent evil have been created as an image of power. In this sense, it is necessary to establish an analytic system of how images of the power of good and evil are visually created in costumes for fantasy films. As such, this study seeks to analyze costumes in fantasy films more systemically through semiotic, which has taken root as a science of analysis in all areas of science. From the perspectives of aesthetic semiotic developed by Morris and costume aesthetics, the syntactical dimension is analyzed into formative elements and the principles of costumes; factual and expressive meanings, themes, and inherent meaning, all of which are immanent in costumes, are elicited in the semantic dimension; and the influence of costumes on viewers is described as identification in terms of pragmatics. This study provided a system to analyze costumes in fantasy films(especially 'Superman', 'Batman' and 'Spiderman') from the perspective of Morris' semiotic, and based on the analytic system, examined how 'power' is revealed in the costumes of super heroes and ruffians, and what it implies.
The Aesthetics of Indian Unstitched Costumes Affected by Hinduism
Seo, Bong-Ha ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 129~141
In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.
Development of Fashion Show Model using the Historical Culture
Park, Hyun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 142~155
The purpose of this study is to develop a fashion show model as a local festival program by designing the costumes of Chosun dynasty from later 16th century to early 17th century and planning a fashion show. The designed costumes are based on the life of the representative poetess, Maechang Lee, from Buan-gun, Jeollabukdo. The planning of the fashion show consists of seven stages, that is, finding a theme, composing the story, designing costumes, choosing music, planning intermission events, producing visuals and booklet, and directing model performances. This paper focuses mainly on finding a theme, composing the story, and designing costumes.
Analysis of Graphic Design Trend in Fashion Design
Seo, Yu-Jin ; Ha, Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 10, 2007, Pages 156~168
Brands started to manufacture consumer-oriented products and look for active methods to appeal their brands to consumers, in the 1990s. As a result, actively adopting graphic design to clothing designs has recently become an important strategy among others. Graphic design has important significance in contemporary fashion design in the aspect that it has expanded the range of expressive methods by bringing over expressive methods of visual design, and has led to an increase in sales due to consumer satisfaction, but it has been vaguely handled together with textiles design, and research on the topic has been insufficient. Therefore this study aimed to clearly define the idea of graphic design based on documentary research, and analyze applying case and formative features of graphic design expressed in clothing, through case studies from 2004 to 2006, and derive the trends of graphic design expressed in contemporary fashion design. The results of this study are as follows. The common characteristics of images that reflect recent graphic design trends in fashion design are hand writing and irregular composition, and images that actively pursued these pointes were retro and craft images, and modern and sporty images reflected these graphic design trends in a comparatively passive manner. It is important to maintain style differentiation rather than indiscreetly adopting graphic design trends to clothing, and to appropriately apply trend characteristics of fashion design and other design areas. Expressive methods of design are expected to expand through appropriate application and development of graphic design, and can potentially provide a new solution to brand differentiation.