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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 57, Issue 10 - Dec 2007
Volume 57, Issue 9 - Nov 2007
Volume 57, Issue 8 - Sep 2007
Volume 57, Issue 7 - Aug 2007
Volume 57, Issue 6 - Jul 2007
Volume 57, Issue 5 - Jun 2007
Volume 57, Issue 4 - May 2007
Volume 57, Issue 3 - Mar 2007
Volume 57, Issue 2 - Mar 2007
Volume 57, Issue 1 - Jan 2007
Selecting the target year
Men's Hunting Clothes in the 1920s
Lee, Young-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 1~8
In the decade of the 1920s in an America, with booming of economy, people had more money. And with the development of transportation, people can afford expensive traveling throughout Europe. With this reason they were exposed to a nobility of European style and liked royalty more than before. American hunting man wanted traditional dress to express their status as a psychological code and the reason of the existing very similar hunting garment in nowadays is based on this belief. The purpose of this study is not merely understanding the styles of American Men's hunting and shooting garments in the 1920s but understanding the psychology of the people. People quite clearly do not dress according to function ore need alone and, in fact the consumption of clothes increasingly serves no other purpose than to fulfill or express psychological or social, rather than practical need.
Classification of Side Somatotype of Upper Lateral Torso Analyzing 3D Body Scan Image of American Females
Na, Hyun-Shin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 9~17
Somatotype is human body shape and physique type which can be classified not only by the size, but also by the shape or posture of the body. Postural variations in the alignment of the back, shoulder, and neck can have an adverse effect on the fit of garments designed to hang from the shoulders. There have been some previous studies about the lateral upper torso by analyzing photographic measurements. In this study, 3D body scan images were used to classify the side somatotype of upper lateral method even though they are major data in the classification of upper torso. This study focused on following objective.; 1) To apply new and developing technology into the apparel industry analyzing 3D body scan images. 2) To classify upper laterla torso using the data through the new improver technology, 3D body scanner. 3) To propose basic materials for well fitted garments for each type of figure. The test subjects for this study were two hundreds nine female aged 19 years and up who were recruited in Cornell university body scan research team. Seventeen Variables(12 angles, 5 lengths) out of 3D body scan data were measured based on these landmarks and applied to analyze. The result of factor analysis indicated that 6 factors were extracted through factor analysis and orthogonal rotation by the method of Varimax and those factors comprise 62.5% of total variance. And the somatotype of upper body is classified into 3 types of figures according to cluster analysis; Bent forward posture, Straight posture, Swayback posture. Future study could be addressed about the somatotype of body by the age group based on the large database with wide variety of age.
Aesthetic Characteristics of the Little Black Dress in the Modern Fashion - Mainly Focused on Works after the Year 2000 -
Kim, Sun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 18~29
Since its birth, "Little black dress" that has been prospering and reviving continually for 80 years, is always favored as classical fashion item. This study focuses on how the "Little black dress", regarded as the beginning of the modern fashion, could become an eternal item over a century by analyzing the aesthetical characteristics of it. Thus, we can better understand the modern women and aesthetic value of modern fashion. The precedented studies and literatures are reviewed for recognizing the development of "Little black dress," and the scope of this study is limited only after the year 2000. Also, fashion work collections and various domestic and international fashion magazines are analyzed demonstratively. After the Little Black Dress was born with the bullish black color in the year 2000, the aesthetic characteristics of the newly spotlighted Little Black Dress in the modern fashion are as the following. First is modernism. Modern style of black dress is appeared through simple and moderate expressions such as pursuit of simple line, minimization of decoration and exclusion of accessories. Second is sensuality that emphasizes flashiness of black by gloss or see-through fabric and exposing one's body parts or dress that exposes body's curves not only express women's physical attraction but also show off woman's social status or roles. Third is feminism. Ruffle, ribbon, flowing-like fabric, and rhythmical details express charms of sophisticated and trendy women as well as romantic image of girlish sensibility. Fourth is hybridism. Experimental and creative thinking like designers' unique re-interpretation of "little black dress," fresh view to sexuality, breaking up of the existing principle of clothing compositions give wholly new aesthetic value.
A Study on Types of Surrealistic Fashion Art
Lyu, Keun-Jong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 30~44
This research searched characteristic of expression of Surrealism in Fashion Art which is new genre as source of design origination and classified as type of Time, Instinct, Existence and analyzed these and after analyzed result, it tried to verify the value aesthetically and followed by compared characteristic of expression in Surrealism appeared in Art based on content of type of expression that deduced and discussed it. Also comparing common characteristic appeared in Fashion Art in surrealism of the east and the west, it suggested discussion that try to find out identity that draw more near to Fashion Art. Results of research are as following these; Surrealist deliver sentiment and emotion that impossible to happen in reality and primitive thought by combination of unrealistic image and this tendency concreted by expression of Time, Expression of Instinct, expression of Existence. It appeared that deconstruct function and purpose of Fashion Art and existing traditional beauty of form and it is in collusion with way of expression of modelling used in Art of Surrealism those are Irregularity, Disorder, Imperfection and Dissymmetry.
A Study on Coloration Trend of Hanbok in 2000's - Focused on Types of Coloration and Hanbok -
Lee, Young-Hae ; Kang, Soon-Che ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 45~60
Characteristics of Hanbok's traditional coloration have been carried on, based on social/cultural background of the past. Today, Hanbok is classified as traditional Hanbok, improved Hanbok, living Hanbok. Their designs, materials and colorations show significant differences. In this study, first, we have categorized and arranged the coloration trend of the women's Hanbok according to the types of coloration since 2000s. Secondly, Hanbok is classified as traditional Hanbok, improved Hanbok, and living Hanbok. And then examining their coloration trend and coloration characteristics of different types of Hanbok, so we can find the purpose far increasing understanding of various color beauty and coloration of today's Hanbok. The findings of this research are summarized as follows; 1. Traditional Hanbok coloration is influenced by the modern rotor and tone, and is apt to show the trend of emphasizing individuality. 2. Hanbok coloration of middle period in 2000's has become to use high value and chroma, giving more bright and luxurious impression then the early period. 3. For this study, we have categorized the total of 277 women's Hanboks by their coloration trends, through studying traditional Hanbok catalogues that enclosed vividly colored pure silk samples. As a result, it shows the order of contrary coloration(149), tone on tone coloration(56), similar coloration(23), monochrome coloration(20), tone in tone coloration(17), and 화학섬유chrome coloration(12). 4. Traditional, improved and living Hanbok show differences not only in their designs or materials but also in colorations. Using of traditional coloration is applied to traditional Hanbok and improved Hanbok in that order, and mostly the value and chroma of living Hanbok colorations are low, which emphasizes easiness to move and practicality.
A Study on the Dyeability and Antibiosis of Fabrics Dyed with Solanum Nigrum Extract
Park, Young-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 61~69
The purpose of this study was to identify the utility value with material of natural dyeing and to examine the dyeability and antibiosis of fabrics dyed with Solanum nigrum extract. The results obtained are as follows. First, the color tone of dyed fabrics was tinged with from yellow series to green series, in the chrominance the fabric dyed with Fe mordant was showed the highest value. Second, colorfastness to dyeing showed difference as to mordants, but colorfastness to dyeing except for sunlight colorfastness showed the good colorfastness result on the whole. Third, in the test results of antibiosis, the dyed both cotton and silk fabrics showed the very excellent antibiosis effect for bacteria but showed the insignificant effect for fungus.
Transfiguration in Fashion Design - Focused on Stationary Space Isolated from the Body -
Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 70~80
Clothes and human body are inseparably related. Aesthetic consciousness of the body determines the form of clothing, reflecting the time and culture as well as the individual and society. Clothes can even reorganize the meaning of the body, while transcending their instrumental functions of protecting, expanding and deforming the body. Using 'body' to analyze the clothing form, my study develops a framework by which to classify transfiguration in fashion design. In order to inquire tile formative style and aesthetic values expressed in transfiguration in fashion, my study examines subjects from the discourse on the body to the fashion collections of the late 20th and 21st century. The results of the study are as follows. Transfiguration signifies absence of body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in more conventional clothing system. Transfiguration is expressed in non-figural forms which implies metaphorical plasticity and abstract extensity. Transfiguration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. Ultimately, this phase also betrays the correspondence between signifiant and
in sartorial convention. Aesthetic ideal of the body is visualized in the form of a dress. Some clothes prioritize the body, particularly the feminine bodily curves, while others focus on the clothing itself as abstract and sculptural forms. Fashion continues to explore forms and images that transcend the traditional representations of the clothed body. As a type of intimate architecture, fashion always mediates the dialogue between clothes and body, or fashion and figure. My study suggests a framework to analyze bodily representation in transfiguration in fashion, focusing on the relationship between the clothes and body.
Luxury Expressed in Movie Costumes - Focused on Hollywood Golden Age Movie Costumes -
Yang, Sook-Hi ; Hahn, Soo-Yeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 81~94
Luxury, an expression of richness and expensiveness which can be achieved after putting in extensive an elaborate handworks, has been expressed in Hollywood movie costumes. The purpose of this thesis is to explore the characteristics of movie costumes of Hollywood studio designers, and to contemplate luxury expressed in movie costumes for such purposes, this thesis first provides the study on the luxury in movie costumes which has been reflected in fashion history, film studies and feminist theories, and to conduct a case study by analyzing photographic materials. The luxury expressed in movie costumes could be identified as expensiveness, exclusiveness, excess, and indulgence. In the movie costumes, expensive materials such as furs, jewelry, and decorations were used. Couture and custom-made costumes were the expressions of exclusivity. Also, the excessive luxury were the expression of bigness, scalelessness or extreme abundance. Indulgence in luxury is shown in use of uncommon characteristics, especially in gangster movie costumes.
The Impact of Website Advertisement on Department Stores
Chun, Tae-Yoo ; Park, No-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 95~109
After defining the determining factor of an attitude on clothing web-site as cognitive responses and affective responses, this study was to investigate how it affects against web-site attitude, brand attitude and purchase intention. To accomplish research subject, this study had an analysis on web-site attitude, brand attitude and purchase intention after selecting 3 department stores having mega fashion malls which run web-sites. Aad(Attitude toward an advertisement) was defined as cognitive responses and affective responses. This research analyzed it by multiple regression analysis after collecting a date from 265 customers who use 3 department stores selected The findings are as follows. First, Aad had a significance impact on web-site attitude across the department stores. Second, Aad had a significance impact on brand attitude across the department stores. Third, Aad had a significance impact on purchase intentions across the department stores. At the end of this paper, discussion, managerial implications, limitations, and future research directions were suggested.
A Study on the Effect of the Mega trend on the Modern Fashion Design
Jun, Hye-Jung ; Ha, Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 110~125
The purpose of this study is to analyze efforts of the mesa trends on the modern fashion design. For the study documentary research and qualitative content analysis have been carried out. Articles in magazines, seminar reports, and news related to trends were collected and analyzed to develop mega trends nowadays. As results,
mega trends were extracted to Co-divergence, Emotional tech, Bi-dentity, Private+One and
design trends extracted to Camouflage, Transformation, Modular system, Blur, Ease. The influences of mega trends and design trends on the modern fashion design have been proved. Those were expressed as eclectic style, deconstructionist style, reductive style and functionalist style in fashion design. The present era could be defined as cultural pluralism blended with various cultures and styles. Fashion as the essential display of contemporary culture and society has been successfully confirmed in this study.
Socio-semiotic Analysis of Plural Sexuality represented in Modern Fashion (II)
Choi, Kyung-Hee ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 126~142
The second part of this study is to typify plural sexuality articulated with fashion images in men's and women's popular fashion magazines in Korea since 2000 and ultimately to infer sexual ideology codified in modern fashion by a framework of this study, the socio-semiotic model. From this, sexuality represented in modern fashion was typified as follows: in women's fashion Traditional Femininity, Glamor Femininity, Androgynous Femininity, Babydoll Femininity and Genderless sexuality, while in men's fashion Traditional Masculinity, Macho Masculinity, Androgynous Masculinity, Adolescent Masculinity and Genderless sexuality. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, modern fashion has been changed from a means expressing gender and class into a sign vehicle representing the new ruling system of age and sexual desire. The binary oppositional sexuality on center of man in the 19 C capitalist period has been gradually pluralized towards the post-capitalist period. Next, mainstream society in Korea is still positioned in the traditional heterosexuality, keeping the vertical power relationship between man and woman even in the post-modern period. However, the fact that both Traditional Femininity and Androgynous Femininity acquire the position of dominant femininity connotes the change of modern femininity. Finally, plural sexuality represented in modern fashion has family resemblance and it shows contextual flexibility within contemporary period as well as a historical context. As a result, sexuality floats with a specific historical and socio-cultural context, and fashion as a material culture represents a masquerade as a identity vehicle, which constructs and de-constructs sexuality at the same time.
A Study on Aesthetic Characteristics of Enlargement Hair Type - Compare the Enlarged Hair Type in the late Chosun Dynasty and that in Rococo -
Yim, Lynn ; Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 143~158
This study considers enlargement phenomenon in hair style as one of Costume types and analyzes its artistic characteristics based on the comparison between Hair style in the late Chosun Dynasty and that of the Rococo. First, its formative property, one of the common aesthetic characteristics, breaks the concept of traditional balance in Clothing and emphasizes its transformation, changes, and space beauty. This formative property shows the Enlargement and exaggeration beyond the concept of Space. Its sensuous property reflects women's psychological minds; exaggeration and sensualism. Artistic property doesn't focus on hair style only or clothing style only and considers hair style as renter of beauty as well as its important element. It shows the traditional beauty of nature and creativity in the Chosun Dynasty. Second, its formative property, one of the differential aesthetic characteristics, shows these following differences considering the aesthetic characteristics in the late Chosun Dynasty and that of the Rococo; mutual transformation, independent transformation, focus on distortion, harmony in scale, disharmony between irregularity and exception, extension and separation in space, etc. Sensuous property shows the temperate beauty and metaphorical sense, affected by the Practical Science, in the late Chosun Dynasty while it shows the secular sense and exaggerated beauty, affected by the Enlightenment, in the Rococo. Artistic property shows the harmony with the Clothing style, balanced wearing lines, and natural beauty, as one part of Clothing, in the late Chosun Dynasty. However it shows creativity, as separate part from Clothing, in the Rococo.
The Latin American Culture in Fashion Designs in 2000's
Choi, Ho-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 159~172
For the study on the Latin American culture reflected in fashion designs since 2000, the applications of Latin American culture shown in the four major collections from 2000 S/S to 2005 F/W (110 pieces) and some African designers' collections (157 pieces) have been analyzed and compared in three categories - forms, patterns and accessories. First, in the formal application of traditional clothes, the traditional elements of Indio culture are utilized in both the four major collections (76.8%) and the Latin American designers' collection (77.1%). Quechquemitl, the traditional Indio clothes are utilized in various forms in the four major collections, while the Latin American designers adopt various forms of traditional clothes, such as quechquemitl, camisa and pollera. Second, in the textile design, the patterns from Indio's traditional textile design are utilized in both the four major collections (68.7%) and the Latin American designers's collections (5.6%). The remarkable difference between the Latin American designers and the western designers is that the former like to mix the simple and primitive Indio culture with the colorful Iberian culture, and to utilize various patterns of feather, which is an important symbol in the traditional culture, expressing tradition in the modern touch. On the other hand, the western designers change the primitive and handcraft feel of Indio patterns into colorful ones, or mix the colorful Spanish-style flower patterns with primitive and passionate feel. Third, simple and handcraft feel of Indio accessories are utilized in modern fashion in both the four major collections and the Latin American designers' collections. The most remarkable difference between the two group of designers' collections is that various feather patterns are used in Latin American designers' collection, while the accessories reminding of relics of Maya and Inca are widely used in the four major collections.
Fetishist Characteristics and Aesthetic Values of Glamour Style
Park, Ju-Hee ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 4, 2007, Pages 173~187
The purpose of this study is to analyze the fetishist characteristics and the aesthetic values of glamour style based on the premise that fetishism is the theoretical root of glamour style expressed in fashion throughout history. The following results are from analysing fetishist characteristics of glamour style. First, luxury was analysed from an angle of commodity fetishism. Every culture develops images and stories that portray a world in which its ideals are realized: a paradise, a utopia, a golden age, etc. Consumer goods often serve as 'bridges to these ideals'. People thus can fantasize about owning the perfect life. Crucially, however, they must never get everything they picture. That is why luxuries often take on displaced meaning. Glamour gives the displaced meaning visual form, making it beautiful and real. Second, the attention on the glamour of luxury goods as a bridge to ideals is connected to the glamour icon who is simultaneously a consumer of these luxury goods and a producer of cultural goods. Glamour icons including the courtesan of the late 19th century, the actress of the 1930s' Hollywood golden age and today's celebrities appear to efface the traces of production and create fetishist images in culture. Through this artificial principle, the commodity-cum-glamour icon comes to life as a splendid image of spectacle. Third, masquerade and seduction were analysed from an angle of sexual fetishism. A magnificent image of masquerade as sexual fetishism is often equated with femininity, especially in Hollywood movies, because the artificial seduction of the feminine -namely glamour- can be effected by the absence or silence of being. That is to say, the aesthetic revelation of femininity coincides with the fleshing out of artificial signs. Masquerade and the seduction of the feminine are connected with glamour's artificial sensuality from this point. Fourth, since 1980's when homosexuality as sexual deviation resurfaced as a hot topic, sexual ambiguity and bisexual image have gained attention as perverse sexuality. Next came queer theory, which reduced gender itself to a matter of surface rather than depth. According to queer theory, gender itself can be revealed as a kind of drag act. Drag's imitative performance may reveal that womanliness is just about 'dragging up'. Queerness as a decadent play makes a connection with the wicked origins of glamour. From these characteristics, four aesthetic values were deduced: ostentatious luxury and mysterious idolatry by commodity fetishism, artificial sensuality and playful queerness by sexual fetishism.