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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 57, Issue 10 - Dec 2007
Volume 57, Issue 9 - Nov 2007
Volume 57, Issue 8 - Sep 2007
Volume 57, Issue 7 - Aug 2007
Volume 57, Issue 6 - Jul 2007
Volume 57, Issue 5 - Jun 2007
Volume 57, Issue 4 - May 2007
Volume 57, Issue 3 - Mar 2007
Volume 57, Issue 2 - Mar 2007
Volume 57, Issue 1 - Jan 2007
Selecting the target year
The Types and Characteristics of Golden Decoration Technique used in the Chinese Fabrics - Focused on the Fabrics from Dang to Cheong Dynasty Era -
Jang, Hyun-Joo ; Ko, Soon-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 1~15
The purpose of this study is to classify the types of and to examine the characteristics of the golden decoration technique used for expressing patterns on the costumes from Dang dynasty to Cheong dynasty era. In order to classify the types of the golden decoration technique and to examine its characteristics, literature review, focusing on documents and records of China, and investigation on the relics from Dang to Cheong Dynasty era were conducted. The types of decoration technique using gold include china JigGeum (brocade technique), InGeum (attaching gold powder and flake technique), GeumSaJaSu (embroidery technique), GeumSaTapestry, mixed technique. Interestingly, it was newly found in this study that embroidery with golden thread was used in the GeumSaTapestry technique and that there were some cases of the mixture of 2-3 gold decoration technique. The GeumSajaSu technique was used the most frequently from Dang dynasty to Yo dynasty era. However, its use had decreased enormously while the use of JigGeum had increased a lot since Geum dynasty era. The mixture of 2-5 techniques was used frequently in JigGeum, GeumSaJaSu, and GeumSaTapestry, but not used in InGeum. Particularly, the mixture technique was the most frequently used in the GeumSaTapestry, which expresses by composition of paintings. All four methods were used the mostly frequently in costumes, while GeumSaJaSu and GeumSaTapestry were generally used for home accessories. InGeum and GeumSaJaSu were used a lot for gaze and leno fabrics such as Sa or Ra, while JigGeum was mostly used for satin weaved fabrics like Dan.
A Study on the Costume of Kumseong-li Fresco, North Korea
Kim, Min-Jee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 16~31
This study is about the costume depicted upon the fraction of fresco which was excavated from Kumseong-li, Hwadae-Gun, Hamkyungbuk-Do, North Korea in 2004. According to the characteristics of its relics, this tomb was reported to belong to Parhae Dynasty(698-926). The fraction of fresco only shows below part of the knees of a man. A light red colored robe reaches down to his ankles on the back, whereas front part of it looks tucked up, which is likely to have slits on both side seams. Although tightly wrapped shins were reported as a pair of gaiters, there is no decisive evidence on the fresco. I suggest another possibility that this man wore slim pants. Also in order to figure out if these shins are considered as gaiters, I proceed comparative research on the historical sources about gaiters of countries and eras adjacent to Parhae. Consequently the idea that people of Parhae might have used gaiters turned out to be acceptable. The black boots show rather basic style: the toe tips are not pointed up, boot leg doesn't look either wide or long. These boots can not be identified with Ammohwa(暗摸靴) which the envoy Yang(楊) gave the protocol Miyakoyoshika(都良香) at his official visit to Japan, because Ammohwa has not yet been properly defined.
Analysis of Sensibility Image of Christian Dior Make-Up - Comparison of Sensibility Image between Make-Up and Fashion -
Lee, Youn-Jeong ; Chun, Hei-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 32~48
This study analyzed image components of make-up image between fashion and advertisement of Christian Dior, also, this study examined, compared and analyzed their aesthetic characters. Then, it researched whether brand image was shaped exactly as the same method or not. The study was theoretical and established method; using more than a graduate student-major in clothing and make up, survey
and SPSS 10 program statistics method. As the results, in Dior fashion and make-up, this study analyzed the factors of shape, color, material and texture, and both of them indicated the aspects of chic, classic, gorgeous and romantic image. Also, consumers understood them as a same image. This demonstrated that Christian Dior fashion and make-up have been shaping toward a same image as a same meaning.
A Study on Trench Coat as Classic Fashion Style
Kim, Ji-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 49~66
Trench coat derived from military uniforms was one of the classical fashion items and has been endeared as everyday outfits thanks to useful traits. Since 1990s classical design of trench coat began to be modified and many variant styles were appeared after 2000s. Trench coat designs after 2000s were appeared as tradition type that was stick to basic British classic style, variation type that was changed in details, colors, materials, and silhouettes, evolution type that was changed into new items, deconstruction type that was dissolved and open-structured. Modern trench coat expressed modern chic, elegance feminine, stylish casual, military and gangster images. The characteristics of trench coat as classic fashion were utility for everyday life style, excellent ability to express images, and strong visual effects of characteristic details. Trench coat was timeless as classic fashion, at the same time, changed into new fashion styles suitable for the sense of the times.
Conservation of Golden Decorative(Jikgeumdan) Jeogori and Chima of Costumes Excavated from Hangju Gi' Tomb of Angang, Kyungsangbukdo Province - Re-adhesion of Gold Leaves in Gilt Paper Strips -
Oh, Joon-Suk ; Noh, Soo-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 67~75
The purpose of this research is to conserve of golden decoration(Jikgeumdan) of Chima(skirt) and Jeogori(Korean jacket) of the costumes excavated from Hangju Gi' tomb(17th Century) of Joseon dynasty
and to focus on the development of conservation skill to prevent flakings of gold leaves in gilt paper strips. Up to the present, in case of golden decorations of costumes excavated from tombs of Joseon dynasty, some of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of costumes were flaked away by deterioration of adhesives in tombs. However, most of gold leaves were flaked away and totally lost by wet cleaning for eliminating contaminants after excavation. In order to prevent flaking, preliminary experiments for re-adhesion of gold leaves have been carried out. Firstly, simulation was performed using gold leaf which was available in the market. Adhesives used in this research were water-soluble adhesives(hide glue(cow, rabbit), glue made from air bladders of sciaenoid fish and Primal AC-3444 of acrylic emulsion) and solvent-soluble adhesives(acrylic adhesive Paraloid B-67 and B-72). Because of difficulty in wetting and spreading of adhesive solutions into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, water-soluble adhesives were not proper for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Solvent-soluble adhesives were easily infiltrated into interface between gold leaf and Korean paper and the adhesive force was also satisfied. From this result, the researchers chose more flexible Paraloid B-72
1% solution than Paraloid B-67
for adhesion of gold leaf and Korean paper. Secondly, using Paraloid B-72 1% solution, the estimations of re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Jeogori were carried out. When Paraloid B-72 1% solution was injected three times into the interface between gold leaf and Korean paper, the re-adhesion was most effective. On the basis of the results in these preliminary experiments, re-adhesions of gold leaves in gilt paper strips of Chima and Jeogori were carried out on condition of three times injections of Paraloid B-72 1% solution before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were survived, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.
Iconological Interpretation of the Images of Faces and Individuals Shown in Costumes
Lim, Ji-Ah ; Choi, Kuyng-Hee ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 76~87
Since the emergence of postmodernism, as interest in human has increased, human face image is being highlighted as one of the themes that are addressed the most. Making the images of faces and individuals shown in costumes the subject matter, this thesis examines the internal values immanent in the images in more depth and understands them based on the Panofsky's iconological interpretation scheme. This study aims to identify designer's purposes and even their unconscious intention through iconological interpretation of faces shown in the fashion and images shown in human image, and further to present basic materials in the fashion design. This research used literature reviews and case studies, and used Panofsky's iconological interpretation theory as the scheme in order to interpret the symbolic significance implied in the images. The images of faces and individuals shown in costumes were classified into six types through historical reviews, and based on the types the images of faces and individuals shown in the fashion since the 20th century were examined. The iconological analysis of the images of faces and individuals shown in costumes based on the classification of types according to historical reviews showed parodies, cultural identity, commercial use, eroticism, respect for heros and its fiction. This study has found that all such things finally return to humanism that humans should be valued and loved the most.
Modern Application of Design Elements on Ceremonial Costume of Korean Folk Belief
Kim, Ji-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 88~96
The purpose of this study is to present examples for modern application with traditional color on ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief which is regarded as representative research material standing for Korean cultural archetype. The arrangements of color on the ceremonial costume of Korean folk belief were selected from 11 items specified as an import intangible cultural asset. These color arrangements were composed of fundamental colors from the viewpoint of modern color sensation, but had a excellent harmony in Hue. Therefore, not shifting Hue of color arrangement on ceremonial costume, traditional color arrangement was apply to contemporary it by shifting tone. Brilliant and deep chromatic tone that belong to 3, 4 area was converted into toned light grey, light clear, dark deep, toned dark grey, and greyish chromatic tone that belong to 1, 2 area or 5, 6, 0 area or 2, 7, 9 area. The plan that applies arrangement color with brightness contrast of traditional fundamental colors on a modern color harmony was presented from that. Like this, we can combine traditional color into modern color sensation, stylize and apply it on a production of character, logogram design, fashion design for characters in animation or game. From this, we'll be able to be close to the color arrangement sensation including our racial emotion in the everyday life.
The Relationship Between Self-Consciousness and Appearance Management Behavior of Older Women
Ryoo, Hyun-Hye ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 97~109
This study is to examine the relation between self-consciousness and appearance management behavior; to grasp the appearance management behavior depending on self-consciousness which older women feel personally; to understand their needs more deeply; and to give support in planning and conducting marketing strategies effectively in the beauty and fashion market. The subjects of this study were aged women ranging 55 to 69 in age, living in Daegu and Geongsangbukdo. 500 questionnaires were distributed and 397 questionnaires out of 440 returned were used in the data analysis. The results through statistic analyses are following: 1. Among older women, the higher social self-consciousness group appeared to pursue six types of appearance management behavior(i.e., weight body-shape care, skin care, cosmetic behavior, hair care, cosmetic surgery, and clothing behavior) much more than the lower social self-consciousness group. 2. Compared with the lower private self-consciousness group, the higher private self-consciousness group appeared to care for not only weight body-shape care but also skin care, cosmetic care, and cosmetic surgery, clothing behavior with more interest in ordinary times. In terms of hair care, though, there was no significant difference between the higher private self-consciousness group and the lower private self-consciousness group. 3. There was no statistically significant difference between the higher social anxiety group and the lower social anxiety group in weight body-shape care, skin care, cosmetic behavior, hair care, cosmetic surgery, and clothing behavior.
The Study on the Hollywood Film Costume of Fashion image in 1930s
Song, Young-Kyoung ; Lim, Young-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 110~123
This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.
A Study on the Universal Fashion Design
Na, Hyun-Shin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 124~135
Nowadays the numbers of the disabled and elderly have been increasing, and the universal design is desperately in demand. The purpose of this study was to offer ideas and solutions for the universal fashion design. The concept and the principles of universal design have been examined and principles of universal fashion design were suggested: low physical effort, flexibility in use, fair in use, aesthetics, safely-oriented, affordability, and accessibility. Eighteen web sites were investigated and the universal fashion products were analyzed based on these principles. Well developed universal fashion design products will help individuals to obtain the quality of life, maintain the dignity, and make the access to the world a little bit easier.
A Study on the Make-up Benefits Sought and Attitudes According to Fashion Lifestyles of Silver Women
Kim, Hyun-Hee ; Kim, Yong-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 136~148
The purpose of this study was to identify make-up benefits sought and attitudes according to the fashion lifestyle of silver women. Self-administered questionnaire was used for data collection, and subjects were silver women aged over 55 years. The results were as followed: 1. The factors of fashion lifestyle of silver women were clothing ostentation, leisure activity, interest in appearance, self-confidence, clothing conservation, and economics in clothing, and total variances was 70.99%. Silver women were clustered into high fashion-involvement group, medium fashion-involvement group, low fashion-involvement group, and fashion retard group according to fashion lifestyle. 2. High fashion-involvement group included more silver women with higher education and incomes, but fashion retard group included more with lower education and income. 3. High fashion-involvement group pursued self satisfaction, complement of defects, fashion trend following, politeness to others highly through make-up, and had higher concern and knowledge about make-up, and accepted plastic surgery or skin care positively. But fashion retard group pursued only a little and showed negative attitudes toward plastic surgery or skin care.
The Effects of Service Quality and Consumption Emotion on Consumer Satisfaction of Internet Fashion Shopping Malls
Hwang, Gyung-Soon ; Hwang, Sun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 149~160
The purpose of this study was to investigate effects of service qualities and consumption emotion on consumer satisfaction of internet fashion shopping malls. Data were obtained from 304 internet fashion shopping mall consumers who have bought fashion products or visited an internet fashion shopping mall. Questionnaires related to service quality, consumption emotion, consumer satisfaction. For analysis of data, exploratory factor analysis, confirmatory factor analysis, path analysis were applied. The results were as follows: 1. The service quality dimensions of internet fashion shopping malls were reliability, merchandise variability, web-design, communication and safety. The consumption emotion dimensions were classified as positive emotion and negative emotion. 2. The service quality of internet fashion shopping malls and the consumption emotion had an effect on consumer satisfaction of internet fashion shopping malls. The dimensions of communication, merchandise variability of the service quality in internet fashion shopping malls had an effect on positive emotion. Safety, reliability of the service quality had an effect on negative emotion. Both positive emotion and negative emotion of the consumption emotion dimensions had an effect on consumer satisfaction of internet fashion shopping malls.
A Study on Victorian Wedding Dress Design and Making Techniques of America
Lee, Sang-Rye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 57, issue 9, 2007, Pages 161~176
The objectives of this study are to select and analyze unpublished wedding dresses in the 19th century, to investigate the design characteristics and making techniques of Victorian wedding dresses, and to examine the correlation between the wedding dress style and the fashion style in those days and the influence of the wedding dress style on contemporary's styles. The materials of this study were 9 wedding dresses owned by the Historical Costume and Textile Collection at the University of Connecticut in USA. The dresses were made during the mid and late Victorian Age. As for silhouette, the bustle style was popular in the 1870s and 1880s, and the hourglass style in the 1890s, and different from contemporary dresses there were no big differences in structural pattern and details between ordinary dresses and wedding dresses. In addition, colored wedding dresses were used until the mid and late Victorian Age, but since the wedding ceremony of Queen Victoria in 1840, white wedding dress was widely accepted and settled as the tradition of today's wedding dresses. While the Western dress style had been basically a one piece style, there appeared simple two piece designs in which the upper garment was separated from the lower one, from the mid Victorian Age. This is considered the reflection of those days' pragmatic social trend in dress style. It seems around 1875 when asymmetric design was first introduced in the Western dress style, which had been mostly symmetric. The asymmetric style that pursued atypical beauty, though not common during the late Victorian Age, shows a change in the typical Western dress style. With regard to dress making techniques, sewing machines were distributed widely during the early Victorian Age but they were not used in all parts of dress. Most of details and trimming works were done manually and some parts were attached and detached by hand sewing. In addition, not like today, there were no generalized rules of making such as the form of closings and composition.