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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 58, Issue 10 - Dec 2008
Volume 58, Issue 9 - Nov 2008
Volume 58, Issue 8 - Sep 2008
Volume 58, Issue 7 - Aug 2008
Volume 58, Issue 6 - Jul 2008
Volume 58, Issue 5 - Jun 2008
Volume 58, Issue 4 - May 2008
Volume 58, Issue 3 - Mar 2008
Volume 58, Issue 2 - Feb 2008
Volume 58, Issue 1 - Jan 2008
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Mechanical Properties and Color Fastness of Polypropylene Knit
Kwon, Myoung-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 1~8
The purpose of this study was to investigate the mechanical properties and hand values of polypropylene knit and to analyze its color-fastness for light, laundering and abrasion, comparing to nylon and polyester knits. The results of this study were as follows: 1. Polypropylene stretched more with less force than nylon and polyester and its elastic recovery and shape stability were better than nylon and polyester. 2. Polypropylene was more flexible than nylon and polyester. 3. Polypropylene stretched more easily for shearing but its recovery from shearing was less than nylon and polyester. 4. Polyester had smoother surface than nylon and polyester. 5. Polypropylene was compressed more easily than polyester with less force but less than nylon. Its recovery from compression was more than nylon and polyester. 6. Polypropylene had lower KOSHI and SHARI values and higher FUKURAMI value than nylon and polyester. It had better T.H.V. value than nylon but less than! polyester. 7. Color fastness of polypropylene for lanudering, light, and abrasion in wet and dry conditions was good except polypropylene dyed with red color.
The Characteristics of Textiles excavated in Shilla Tombs(
Park, Yoon-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 9~16
Six of the Imdang tombs containing remains with imprints of ancient fabrics and textiles were investigated. Within the tombs, a total of 120 pieces of imprinted fabrics and textiles were investigated, all of which belongs to
Shilla period. All of the hemp textiles examined exhibited similar characteristics found in ancient hemp textiles: they were woven by plain weave technique with s-twist threads. The examined silk could be categorized into plain woven silk, cho, and double woven brocade, all of them made with non-twisted threads and degummed silk. The density of the plain woven silk ranged from 39 threads to 144 threads. Cho was also found, which showed similar characteristics to those of Gaya and Bakjae tombs. One piece of 2/1 twill weave on plain ground and 12 pieces of double woven brocade were found and their average density was
with denser warp than weft. The various thickness of the threads were observed in the examined plain braid. The silk with twining technique showed thicker warp than weft. This is similar to the techniques of fabrics found in the King Muryeoung's Tomb of the Bakjae period. Fabrics with the purple-like color were observed in the some of the double woven brocades and also on the plain woven silk imprinted on the remains. The purple-like color was revealed to be purple with a tint of violet. The two tombs from which the imprinted fabrics with purple-like color were found belonged to top-class social level of the Shilla period, which informs that the purple color was used exclusively for the people of higher social status. The floss silk was found between the double woven brocade and plain woven silk of the belt, which is an important evidence that the floss silk was used for stuffing in the early 6th century.
Art and Fashion Design Based on Charles Baudelaire's Aesthetic Perspective
Kim, Yon-Son ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 17~32
This study focuses on the analysis of Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective which has established a theoretical basis on research of the critical reviews' salon exhibitions as written by Baudelaire. Charles Pierre Baudelaire(1821-1867) having lived during the latter part of Neo-classicism and the era of Romanticism and Impressionism, Baudelaire displayed opposition to customary realities such as social ideology or religious authority that suppressed human nature. Also he pioneered a new genre known as art criticism and wrote much that provided important insights on the essential elements of artistic work, modernity and trend, as well as art definition and art categories. The aesthetic perspective and creative spirit were formed by Baudelaire, during his age were also reconfirmed in the successive ages of modernism and postmodernism. As such, this study sheds light on how Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective was not only temporarily assertion but it is consistently applied to modern art and fashion area. What is more important that, Baudelaire admired new artificial beauty that is created by the human soul liberated from natural instincts or desires. Especially, informed by strangeness and distinctiveness, Baudelaire's view of fashion ran along the same vein as his view of art, and these views form the basis of that creative spirit which situated western fashion on a center of the world. In conclusion, the research on Baudelaire's aesthetic perspective will reaffirm a firm awareness of the creative spirit essential to globally-oriented creative artists and designers who work within the circumstance of the 21st century, a time when the paving of new aesthetic paths is necessary. The research also offers a clear understanding of the aesthetic values demanded by this age.
The Effect of the Jacket Style and Color, and Shirt Style on Men's Image Perception
Kang, Seung-Hee ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 33~44
The purpose of this study was to investigate the effects of the style and the color of jacket, the style of shirt, and stimulus-manufacturing method on men's image perception. A quasi-experimental method by questionnaire was used, and the experimental design was
stimulus-manufacturing method) factorial design. Computer simulation picture and photograph were used for stimulus-manufacturing method. Subjects were 377 women in the metropolitan area of Seoul. The data were analyzed by using factor analysis, Cronbach's
-reliability coefficient, and three-way ANOVA. The men's image derived five dimensions by factor analysis; neatness, ability, activity, individuality, and sociability. Tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in ability, individuality, and sociality than jumper with jean pants, and jumper was evaluated higher than tailored jacket in activity. The indigo jacket was evaluated lower in individuality in the picture stimuli than in the photograph stimuli. The beige tailored jacket with jean pants was evaluated higher in activity than indigo tailored jacket. However, the indigo jumper was evaluated higher in activity than beige jumper. Dress shirt under the tailored jacket was evaluated higher in ability and individuality than T-shirt under the tailored jacket. T-shirt under the jumper was evaluated higher in activity than dress shirt.
A Study of Court Dresses Shown in Scene of the Royal Banquet Given by the King at Gyeong-hyeon-dang of Gisagyecheop
Lee, Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 45~60
This study reports a court dress culture in 1719 shown in the Scene of a Royal Banquet given by the King at Gyeong-hyeon-dang(景賢堂) of Gisagyecheop(耆社契帖). It can be summarized as follows: First, King Suk-jong(肅宗) attending a Royal Banquet for members of the Hall of Elder Statement wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, red Gollyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. The Crown Prince(王世子) also wore the Ikseonkwan decorated with flowers, black Goliyongpo, Okdae, and Heukpiwha. Second, senior statesmen(耆老臣) over the age 70 wore Sarno, Heukdallyeong with a crane rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Royal family members and officers also wore Samo, Heukdallyeong with a crane or silver pheasant rank tablet, belt, and black boots. Third, Sakum(司禁) of King's body guards wore Yungbok and Muyaebyulgam(武藝別監) wore Ja-geon and the green Jikryeong. Ui-jang-gun(儀仗軍) wore Pirip and Hongui, Haengjeon, and Unhae. Saboksikwan(司僕侍官) wore Samo, Heukdallyeong, belt, black boots, and a sword. Fourth, boy dancers(舞童) wore Buyongkwan, Kwanbok, skirt, belt, and black boots. Cheoyong-dancers(處容舞童) wore outfits in fine colors, wide pants, skirt, mask with an earring, gold colored belt, and white colored sandal. Hyeopryulrang(協律郞) wore Sarno and Heukdallyeong. Jipbak(執拍) wore Morabokdu and Noksaui, and Ak-kong(樂工) wore Whawhabokdu, Hongju-ui, Ojungdae, and Heukpiwha. Singer(歌童) wore Jajeok-dugeon, nokju-ui, and jajeokdae.
The Comic Expressed Comedy Costume in TV - Focused on
Lee, Min-Jung ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 61~78
Comedy costumes worn on the comedians/gag men express the information of the performances such as character's era, place, social rank, present environment, age, sex, occupation, emotion, relationships between the characters, importance and mood in visual language. The comic is found when these informations are reversed, revealed, exaggerated or distorted. To analyse the TV comedy costumes, 5 subordinate concepts of the comic which are Body, Gender, Age, T.P.O.(Time, Place, Occasion) and Role could be identified, and the results from the analysis focused on
(10 shows were selected from each of the first and second half of the years from 2003 to 2007) are as follows: Distorted and ugly body implies the resistance against the ideal body. Reversed or confused sex are usually expressed as men dressed in women, and these mean breaking the dichotomy between male and female, and coexistence of the masculinity and feminity, and satirizing the social custom restricting women by moral rules. It could be recognized that the way of men's dressing in women have been changing keeping pace with the times. The discord between age and costume was often expressed with children's wear and childish props. This implies the liberation from the age role. The comic expressed from the inadequate costume for T.P.O. usually appeared with the costumes 20-30years behind the times. When there were discordance with the acts and acts expected from the outfit(appearance) also made an ironical laugh. The comics acquired by vulgarization and exaggeration of the characteristics of role(figures/occupation) were from the imitation and deformation of the objects in stereotypes, and through this dissolving the custom was under way.
A Study on Ritual Costume of Jongga - Centering around Po -
Ma, Yoo-Ree ; Park, Ja-Myoung ; Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 79~89
Jongga means a head family by only first son's line of each generation. It is our culture's root and identity. It also includes ritual for continuing filial duty. Ritual takes the main role on jongga culture to pay respects to Jongga's ancestors and roots. Therefore, ritual costume's importance can not be neglected. We will check a Po mainly for Jongga ritual costumes' types and designs to refind Jonggas identity and its meaning. In this research, areas are divided to Gyoungsang by Youngnam sect and Jeonla by Kiho sect. Geochang, Andong in Gyoungsang province and Haenam, Namwon, Youngkwang in Jeonla province where currently first sons of Jongga reside have been researched. The method is based on Books and visits on the places. Ritual costumes' types and designs are different between Gyoungsang and Jeonla. Firstly, now in Jongga, only a Dopo and a Durumagi are worn while the manner book shows a Danryoung, a Jikryoung, a Dopo and a Simu. Also costumes are variable on areas. Secondly, a Po is characterized by its sleeve and back-line's inside skirt. In a Po, Gyoungsang has a Duri sleeve and Jeonla has a Duri sleeve which has been changed from a Dunggun sleeve. While Gyoungsang has rectangle-shaped two pieces cloths and a split in a bottom, Jeonla has both a Mu with a split back and a complete split back in back-line's inside skirt. It seems that Youngnam sect's fundamentalism and Kiho sect's flexibility about culture of old political groups would have influenced on these patterns.
A Study on the Wearing Conditions of Working Clothes for Railroad Workers
Ha, Seon-Ju ; Choi, Hei-Sun ; Kim, Eun-Kyong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 90~103
This study aims to examine the current state of wearing working clothes for the workers who work in Electric Technology Division, Korea Railroad Corporation, to identify inconveniences and problems in relation to the working clothes, and based on the examination, to find a way to improve them, creating a design of summer working clothes that will have more advanced functionalities including activity adaptability and comfort. Survey was conducted through direct observation and interview for Electric Railway Power Team. A total of 352 copies were collected and analyzed. Based on the results of questionnaire, an experimental clothes, the functionality of which has improved in terms of design, material, and patterns, was created. The followings are the results of the study. Easy activity, design, and comfort are required as functions of working clothes. In design related questions, the survey shows high dissatisfaction in the color of existing working clothes, and preferred colors are dark blue and gray. With regard to the method of zipping up the front side, zippers are preferred. Although many pockets on the existing working clothes have high satisfaction, dissatisfaction to pocket format is high. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation and sweat absorption. It is shown that the areas frequently polluted include the lower part of pocket, the edges of sleeves and elbow areas on the jacket. The frequently polluted area of the trousers include knee areas, the edges of pants and buttocks. With regard to the areas where the workers felt discomfort when motion, discomfort is highly indicated with armpits and back on the jacket. Also discomfort is highly indicated with crotch, buttocks and knee areas on the trousers. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction is indicated for the sense of touch, ventilation, sweat absorption.
The Effects of Consumers' Attitude toward Party on Dress Code Receptiveness
Seo, Sang-Woo ; Lee, Yu-Ri ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 104~115
Party is an important communication method in the 21st century and this tendency is not exceptional in Korea. With this noteworthy phenomenon, this study summarized the concept and history of party first, and then analysed "belief - attitude - behavioral intention" model based on the one-dimensional attitude theory. The variables included in this research were western culture familiarity as belief factor, three variables evaluating the party culture(i.e., non-popularity of party, marketability of party, sociability of party) as attitude factor, and dress code receptiveness as behavioral intention factor. The samples of this study were 498 women in twenties and thirties from metropolitan areas in South Korea. SPSS 12.0 and AMOS 4.0 packages were used for statistical analysis. The results of this research are as follows: First, western culture familiarity had a significant effect on attitude toward party culture. Specifically, western culture familiarity negatively influenced the non-popularity dimension of party and positively influenced the marketability and sociability dimension of party. Second, attitude toward party culture significantly influenced the dress code receptiveness. Consecutively, all of three dimensions about attitude toward party culture positively influenced the dress code receptiveness. Managerial implications were provided.
A Study on the Formative Characteristics of the Qualitative Continuity Expressed in Contemporary Fashion
Yang, Hee-Young ; Yang, Sook-Hi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 116~132
Continuity and discontinuity is a relative concept, and there are various categories of the continuity and discontinuity in our circumference. In the thought of postmodernism of the late of 20th Century, continuous creations of the difference and the repetition have being regarded as a discontinuity. But, because of that catches the moment occurring qualitative skip though the flowing of the everlasting time, this has been known to a shortsighted viewpoint overlooking characteristic of the qualitative continuity of an organism, which have being created continuous formation for life through the flowing of the time. Therefore, this had studied like this complex social condition and various relationships expressed in modern fashion focusing on permanently creative movements and behaviors equal to the qualitative continuity. This Thesis is following study about continuity, and aims at understanding of those formative characteristics through consideration about characteristics of qualitative continuity. And, this analyzes formative characteristics of the qualitative continuity into 5 sets: enlargement, conversion, structural variability, mutual combination, and deconstruction. This thesis intends to grasp complex modern social phenomenon and modern fashion into qualitative continuity that means continuous formation and the change of various relationships according to recognition about the course toward open thinking.
An Analysis of the Present Condition of Sizing System and Fitting on Formal Pants of the On-line Shopping Mall for Plus-sized Women
Ha, Hee-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 133~150
The purpose of this study was to recognize of the sizing system and analyze the fitting on formal pants of the on-line shopping mall for plus-sized women. To pursue this purpose, the investigation of the sizing system was focused on 22 online companies. The formal pants of 7 companies was selected among them. And actual sizes were compared with the guidance sizes of goods. For the assessment about the fitting on formal pants of 7 online companies, these came to make on to 16 obese women with 'A' body shaped and 'O' body shaped. A data analysis used the SPSS 14.0 statistics program. To verify the difference, this study used the variance analysis and Duncan's test for the postmortem verification. The result was as follows. 1. All of 22 companies were using the symbol such as 88, 99, 100 and 110 in the present condition of sizing system. The information about products size was presenting the products size not to be the body size. the guidance sizes of products were different from actual sizes of 7 companies to be assorted. Therefore, the guidance sizes of goods could not accomplish the facility. 2. According to the fitting-tests by the sensory assessment, the obese women with 'A' body shaped, did the dissatisfaction at the items of the hip circumference, abdominal region, crotch deep and pants length. The obese women with 'O' body shaped, did the dissatisfaction at the the items of crotch deep and pants length.
A Study of Fashion Design Preferences of Early Adopters - Focusing on Technological Fashion Products -
Park, Judy Joo-Hee ; Kahng, Jung-Min ; Ha, Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 1, 2008, Pages 151~160
`Early adopters,` a term first used by Everett Rogers in 1957, refers to people who are among the first to try a new product and like to evaluate the product for others. Early adopters in the digital age of the 21st century, greatly influence others by exchanging information on products and writing product reviews on Internet boards. Technological products have recently been released in the fashion world to become important fashion items, and early adopters are active buyers of these products. The purpose of this study is to examine the values and characteristics of early adopters as consumers of technological fashion products, and present a standard for designing fashion products in the future. This study was based on documentary research, Internet research and in-depth interviews. Documentary research was carried out to examine the lifestyles, characteristics and consumption habits of early adopters. Internet research was done to understand the tendencies of Korean early adopters, and a total of 18 websites were studied in 7 product categories. The subjects of in-depth interviews were 6 people who were either webmasters or members of early adopter-related websites. IT field early adopters tended to pursue new technologies, and fashion early adopters placed importance on how well a person could express their own style. New, unique, useful and pretty were the key words to describe the tendencies of early adopters, and fashion early adopters preferred the latest contemporary styles. Interviewees placed most importance on price, design and function of products. Since IT related products are continuously being added on to clothes and becoming fashion products themselves, further research on technology-related fashion design would be significant.