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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 58, Issue 10 - Dec 2008
Volume 58, Issue 9 - Nov 2008
Volume 58, Issue 8 - Sep 2008
Volume 58, Issue 7 - Aug 2008
Volume 58, Issue 6 - Jul 2008
Volume 58, Issue 5 - Jun 2008
Volume 58, Issue 4 - May 2008
Volume 58, Issue 3 - Mar 2008
Volume 58, Issue 2 - Feb 2008
Volume 58, Issue 1 - Jan 2008
Selecting the target year
Fashion Accessory Design Using Media Art
JeKal, Mee ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 1~12
The expansion of media art has not only developed the digital technology but also given lots of environmental evolution to improve various fields of design as the main topic of the 21st century. The purpose of this study is aimed at proposing the new design that integrates fashion accessaries with media art technology. This will be done by understanding the social environment in digital ages and studying technology of design based on a variety of literature about changes in our society, neo value, vision, culture and art with fundamental notion of media art. First stage for this study, put an idea into just fashion accessary design because it is not sufficient to incoporate fashion and media art technology. The presented OLED(Organic Light Emitting Diodes) in this study is a kind of display to be in a limelight in the next generation and can be applied to various field of design. media art simultaneously moved into the scope of artistic debates. As a result, we can found that the use of audiovisual introduced numerous new aspects to the conceptual and aesthetic engagement with questions of conception. Today, the presented forms of art and inter-action from the closed -circuit work to interactive media art installations to open process-exist as parallel possibilities.
The Styles and Characteristics of Masks as Expressed in Modern Fashion
Kim, Sun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 13~25
This study is on the various style and characteristics of mask, and was performed empirically by reviewing the related materials such as the literature, precedent studies, fashion works, and home and foreign fashion magazines. As a result of the study, the style of mask in the modern fashion is roughly categorized by full-covered style, half-covered style, and over-half-covered style which is covered over 50% of a face. And, mask is utilized on a hat or a dress all over, or is produced by a elaborate makeup. Mask with lots of variation has three big characteristics, which are sense of disguise, sense of ornamentation, sense of grotesquery. First, sense of disguise means deviation or tool of affectation instead of cultural standard norm through transforming or masquerading as an imagery person or animal in ancient myths, famous artistes, etc. It could be developed to express a designer's identity. Second, mask decorated with various styles and materials has sense of ornamentation, which means natural human desire of expression for beauty, and at the same time human mind longing for experience a fantastic and ideal inner world being deviated from the present world even indirectly. Third, ignoring the original format of eyes, nose, and mouth, using extraordinarily various techniques such as distortion, extreme, exaggeration, concealment, or combining with animal images, mask has sense of grotesquery inducing humor and horror simultaneously.
A Study on the Dynamic Performance of Waterproof and Breathable Materials
Kwon, Myoung-Sook ; Kwon, Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 26~34
The purpose of this study was to create a database of information on the mechanical properties of two different waterproof and breathable shell fabric groups(high density woven and PTFE laminate) used for outdoor apparel and to compare and correlate data of their mechanical properties and hand values. The results of this study were as follows; There were no statistically significant differences between two fabric groups in extension, bending and shearing properties. There were statistically significant differences between two fabric groups in MMD, SMD, LC and we values. High density woven fabrics had smoother surface than PTFE laminated fabrics. PTFE laminated fabrics can be compressed easily more than high density woven fabrics but their recovery after compression was not better than high density woven fabrics. There were statistically significant differences between two fabric groups in NUMERI, FUKURAMI. There was statistically significant difference between two fabric groups in total hand value. Total hand value and mean deviation of MIU had a very high and statistically significant negative correlation coefficient.
Color Analysis of Glasses Cases of the Middle and Late Joseon Dynasty, by Materials
Lee, Young-Kyung ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 35~46
The purpose of this study was to closely examine the history of glasses and their cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty and identify inherent quality of our traditional glasses cases through color analyses of glasses cases' material and shape. While theoretical examination was conducted based on the literatures of glasses and their cases that firstly appeared in around Japanese Invasion (Imjin war) of Korea in 1592, practical analyses were demonstrated on photos of glasses cases used in the middle and late of Joseon Dynasty collected from both museum pieces and the internet which were grouped into wood, fabric, paper, sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn in accordance with their materials. 623 color samples were abstracted from collected 159 glasses cases and quantity analyses on each material were performed respectively. Abstracted representative colors based on the result of color analyses were classified into the main materials and accessories' color scheme. The result of this study are as follow: firstly, both Yellow and Yellow Red were mostly used in main materials. In Fabric case's colors were widely used in embroidery and in animal matter material cases such as sharkskin, hawksbill and cow's horn, which can be used as itself or dyed, Green Yellow shown in high frequency. Secondly, accessories were analyzed into similarity coloration with main materials. From this finding, it turns out that our traditional cases have characteristic of similarity coloration between main materials and accessories. Red Purple and Purple Blue in high frequency in accessories used as an accent color. Finally, based on the analysis of hue and tone, while the middle and low value colors shown in very high frequency, the high-chroma colors hardly shown.
A Study on the Funology of Fashion Design in the Post-digital Age - With a Focus on Internal Meanings and External Expressions -
Na, Hyun-Shin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 47~57
Funology is a compound word with fun and technology which means the products or activity carrying fun and technology at the same time. This is one of the key words that can explain the culture of post-digital generation amongst the post-digital age. The purpose of this study was to provide the creative ideas to develop the fashion designs showing funology concept for the 21st century. As a background of funology trend, general ideas about the post-digital age and the post-digital generation were reviewed. First, funology designs among the industrial products and the funology concepts in the advertisement were examined. And the ways of expression and the meanings of funology fashion designs were extracted by analyzing funology fashion between 2000 S/S and 2008 F/W. The external expression ways of funology fashion in the post-digital age were as follows: parody of popular images, inharmony by the exaggeration or transformation, trompe l'oeil, mixture of the styles shown in the children's wear and the objects of children, patterns with childlike or animation characters, and the graffiti art. The internal meanings contained in the funology fashion were 1) fantasm showing surrealistic funology that was based on the people's pursue of fantasy free from the everyday's severe routine 2) memorism showing nostalgic funology that was based on the pursue of vanishing fear of reality and going back to the childhood. To sum up, fashions showing funology were expressed in various ways in the post-digital age. This will provide the great inspirations for creating the new coming fashions and efficient healing contents for the cold-hearted emotions of nowaday's people.
Antecedent Variables that Influence Personalization in Apparel Products Shopping - Clothing Involvement, Monthly Clothing Expenditures, Additional Expenses -
Kim, Yeon-Hee ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 58~71
The demand for personalized products and service of apparel product has increased dramatically. In order to acquire a personalized apparel product, consumers may have to sacrifice more expense or time. The purpose of this study was to investigate various personalization strategies in apparel business and to identify antecedents that influence the process. Clothing involvement and two price related variables (clothing expense and willingness to pay more) were included in the study as antecedents. Four personalization strategies were included in the study: design selection, size customization, in-store service and promotion personalization. For an empirical study, a conceptual model was designed and research questionnaire was developed. A measure of personalization of apparel shopping was developed based on existing scale items of prior research and a pilot study. Data from 766 men and women in their twenties to forties were used for statistical analysis. Structural Equation Modeling was used for the data analysis. Results indicated that the conceptual model was a good fit to data. Structural paths indicated that there was significant influence of clothing involvement on design selection and sales promotion personalization strategies. Involved consumers spent more on chothing products and were likely to pay more on personalized products and services. Monthly clothing expense influenced size customization significantly. It also had negative influence on service related personalization strategies. Consumers were willing to pay more when it comes to product related personalization strategies such as design and size but not necessarily to service related strategies. This study was an attempt to provide an in-depth and synthesized approach on consumer attitudes toward personalization of apparel products.
A Study of the High Touch in Contemporary Fashion
Kim, Bo-Young ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 72~85
With the new millennium setting in, our society is plowing its way through more drastically changing currents than ever. Nowadays, many people believe that high tech such as the Internet, digital civilization, the IT revolution, bio-industry, and the genome project, that has brought humans material prosperity, is the right change in direction. However, the more we adopt high tech into our lives, the more we desire high touch in order to achieve a balance. In other words, we need something to act as a ballast to stabilize our minds. As such, the more high tech develops, the more individuals miss and search for tools that appeal to their emotions. Because of this, although high touch is an opposite concept to high tech, it coexists with high tech, and it is defined as "human contact of high sensitivity that stimulates the emotion of humans". High Touch, a term which originated from "High Tech, High Touch", a book written by American futurist John Naisbitt, refers to human contact that makes human life richer, forminga deep impression on individuals and providing comfort. As such, high touch, which is gaining significant attention in modern society, is a phenomenon occurring throughout politics, society, culture, art, and religion, together with high tech. Through high touch, modern people must realize how to understand and accept a modern society that is dominated by the age of technology and in which direction they should head. Under this background, this study has the following objectives: to interpret the concept of high touch in the age of high tech in association with formative art and fashion, and through various media examine the desire for expression that may stimulate emotion in modern people, which is required by the high tech-prevalent modern society. It further analyzes how high touch is reflected in modern fashion and presents the direction future fashion should head in.
The Ways in which Clothes worn by Game Characters as Expressed in Contemporary Fashion
Lee, Hyo-Jin ; Yang, A-Rang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 86~98
This study is purposed to determine the correlation between contemporary fashion and game characters' clothes and to analyze the formative property of the game characters' clothes expressed in the contemporary fashion. The temporal scope of this study is from 2004 to 2007 based on general online game ranks, while the game type is limited to 3D-online role playing game. The most popular clothes of game characters are analyzed and found to have imaginary, sensualistic, and cross-sexual features. These are also expressed as Cyber resistance image, Femme fatal image and Asexual image in the contemporary fashion. Firstly, the Cyber resistance image in the recent fashion is shown as belligerent, destructive and surrealistic image in contemporary fashion. Secondly, the Femme fatal image represents bewitching, brutal and narcissistic image with sleek materials and glowing colors in contemporary fashion. Thirdly, the Asexual image means the concept of sex as the neuter gender. Especially, this image has been introduced by simple and straight silhouette, black, silver, khaki colors in fashion. Accordingly, the clothes of game characters with the popularity and formative property have close correlation with contemporary fashion even if they do not pursue for practical creativity. In this respect, they can consolidate the position as a new fashion trend if they are developed with various design ideas.
A Comparative Study of Corsetry Methods
Park, Sang-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 99~112
The aim of the study was to look into the construction methods of historical corsetry and compare them with the construction methods of corsetry today. Through a comparative study, it was concluded that the design, material, sewing and functions of corsetry of a certain period are sum of the clothing techniques and fashion of the time. Corset was first appeared at the end of the 16th century. It has been through many changes in terms of items, materials, patterns, sewing methods in order to make right silhouettes of the time. Now corsetry has been developed into various items such as waist nipper, all-in-one, nipper bra, and girdle. All these items have a common purpose, that is to improve the body shape. The corsetry of the past was made of non stretchable materials, so they used to restrict body movements, and required individual fitting several times. Due to the development of thin durable stretchable fabrics, functional bones, and advanced sewing machines, construction methods of seam, hem and opening are simplified compare to their predecessors. Consequently corsetry became less weighted, easy to wear, easy to wash and easy to mass produce. Yet they have consistency in sewing techniques such as using bones or wires to support bodice shape, using durable twill fabrics over plain for attractive body shapes.
A Study on the Aesthetic Characteristics of Contemporary Fashion that Uses Artificial Light
Jung, Hyun ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 113~127
Artificial lights have effected the changes of art and fashion concepts as well as human life since the invention of electric light bulb in late 19th century. Artist and designer have had more interested in these artificial lights as the development of digital technology and the change of millennium and they have tried to apply the lights into their works. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics of contemporary fashion design using artificial light as a medium. Artificial light for fashion design means the light using luminescent material like phosphorescent and fluorescent materials or in combination with electroluminescent digital technology or the light that can be perceived as images when light projects from media using a light projector or other digital equipment. Fashion design using this light type can change colors or form temporarily and it can playa role as a gadget for hm or as equipment to provide information much as a computer monitor does. And designer can create virtual patterns on the surface of clothes, or virtual fashion like a 3-dimensional holography in empty space. In these fashion designs, the virtual image of light is substituted for physical formative elements in fashion, and the viewer can experience an ambiguity between reality and virtuality. The results of the study were as follow; The formative characteristics of those fashion designs were identified as visibility, indeterminacy, integration and virtuality. And they reflected the internal meanings; the persue of protection and safety, the search for experiment and innovation, the will for interaction and communication and the desire for the deviation and fun.
The Relationship Between the Body Satisfaction/Self-Esteem of Female Middle and High School Students and their Use of Make-up
Shim, Joon-Young ; Kim, Hyun-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 128~138
The purposes of this study were to identify the effects of body satisfaction and self-esteem on the make-up degree of middle and high school girls. Self-administered questionnaire was used for data collection from 432 students. The results were as follows: 1) Most of middle and high school girls were in height of 161-165cm and weight of 56-60kg. Satisfaction level of middle and high school girls with their eyes was the highest and that of weight was the lowest. They showed strong intention to modify their appearances and were dissatisfied with their body. 2) Middle and high school girls' satisfaction level of home life self-esteem was the highest, but that of school life was the lowest. 3) Middle and high school girls used cosmetics to protect their skins and paid much attention to their skins. They collected cosmetics informations from their friends or family members, and began to use point make-ups from their middle school years. They purchased cosmetics at cosmetic specialty store or internet shopping mall frequently. Most of them spent less than 10,000 won monthly for cosmetics, and used lip gloss and ultraviolet rays interceptors over their face with basic cosmetics. 4) Expenditures for cosmetics, self-esteem on their appearances, and pocket money affected on make-up degree. Middle and high school girls who spent more money for cosmetics and more pocket money with higher self~esteem on their appearances showed higher degree of make-ups.
The Role of Buying Office and Trade Shows in the Italian Fashion Market
Kim, Mun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 139~154
The purpose of this study was to investigate distribution structure system in the Italian Fashion market through the buying office and trade show. The role of trade show in Italian fashion market is facilitate interactions between the producers and buyers. Milano Unica is an example of Italian fashion trade show that successfully create the right image and attract the right audience through the differentiation policy of management strategy for the show organization. The role of buying office is to offer satisfactions for their customers through giving right informations about the product that they request to buy and confidence of quality and price.
A Study on the Fashion Sensibilities of Korean Clubbers
Kim, Ji-Lyang ; Choy, Hyon-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 4, 2008, Pages 155~170
Club culture is the global trend for youth in 21st century. Club is the space that is created with close relationship among music, dance and fashion. It is also experimental cultural art space with endlessly transforming style. Furthermore it is a space for independent minor culture which represents speciality than generality of cultural appetite and style of club. Cultural communities formed around club and their parties have placed as a strong subculture trend based on youth age group. What they are creating as a subculture could be our tomorrow's main trend and clubbers also could be our major power sources for future. Therefore it is necessary to pay attention to club culture. The purposes of this research are to identify the concept of clubber, to analyzes their basic club culture characteristics and elements, and to find out unique fashion styles of Korean clubber in comparison with the origin. To study club fashion style's origin and background, this study searched a theoretical flow from 1930's to 1990's. Then, Korean clubber's style is derived by comparing background and origin of Korean club culture with those of abroad. To analyze in various point of view, theoretical backgrounds about social, cultural, dresses, and design were considered. Since research target is a visual image, street fashion is analyzed on through, music channels and magazines from 1930's to present as well as designer's art photographies. Internet sites', cub culture association's and sound association's photos were also extracted. as a visual evidences to offer actual evidences. Geological targets are selected among Korean club culture's origin such as Hong-Ik University area, Shin-chon, Chungdam-dong and Apgujung-dong areas. The results of this study are as follows. Firstly, clubber's fashion style influenced magnificently on major fashion design instead of being just youngster's resistance toward control group and it is contributing to our fashion culture to enrich it. Secondly, fashion styles of korean clubbers are based on those of western sub-culture, but with a unique localized history.