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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
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Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 58, Issue 10 - Dec 2008
Volume 58, Issue 9 - Nov 2008
Volume 58, Issue 8 - Sep 2008
Volume 58, Issue 7 - Aug 2008
Volume 58, Issue 6 - Jul 2008
Volume 58, Issue 5 - Jun 2008
Volume 58, Issue 4 - May 2008
Volume 58, Issue 3 - Mar 2008
Volume 58, Issue 2 - Feb 2008
Volume 58, Issue 1 - Jan 2008
Selecting the target year
The Curator System in the Field of the History of Costume and a Plan for Curator Education
Hong, Na-Young ; Song, Mi-Kyung ; Choi, Eun-Soo ; Choi, Ji-Hee ; Yi, Yu-An ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 1~12
Although the curator system of South Korea officially started in 2001, it has not taken root yet. Because most active curators do not have a certificate, concerned scholars are making efforts to complement and establish the curator system. Although there are currently numerous museums and art galleries that own a number of costumes and textiles in Korea, the number of curators who majored in the history of costume is very low. Despite the growing importance and the increase in costume-related exhibition than any other fields, this shortage of qualified curators resulted in the lack of specialty for the management and exhibition of past costumes. To solve this problem, there needs to be more hire for curators, in proportion to the possession and exhibition of costumes, who major in the history of costume. The history of costume must also be part of the curator test and be required even for the internship. And there must be education for curators who currently deal with costumes without having majored in the study of costume, history of costume students who want to become a costume-related curator in the future, and the general public. The contents for education must include the knowledge of artifacts, theories to enhance the management capacity, and practice in the museum.
Establishment of Criteria for the Evaluation of Headgear and Ornaments for Diadem in the Period of the Three States
Kim, Moon-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 13~34
In Headgear and Ornaments for Diadem in the Period of the Three States there was Conical Cap(or Pointed Cap), Feathered Cap(Trim), and Crown[Tree-typed Diadem and Tree and Antler-typed Diadem] was excavated from the tombs. Feathered Trim is 5 types, Feathered Trim I-A, Feathered Trim I-B, Feathered Trim II-A, Feathered Trim II-B, Feathered Trim II-C in according to upper part of central insert plate style. Feathered Trim I-A, I-B, II-B type was general style that was found in most of the old tombs in ancient Silla, Gaya. Feathered Trim II-A type was excavated from the only Silla tombs and II-C type was excavated from Gaya tombs. The Ornaments for Diadem in Baekje was excavated from the tombs is adorned with a arranged leaf-stems on either sides and the flower-shaped. They were distinguished with the original mode of Goguryeo and ancient Silla at the time. Tree-typed Diadem is five part in according to the Mountain(;山)-typed piled up. Only one Mountain(;山)-typed one in three stand-up ornament(I-1 type), and three step one in three stand-up one(I-2 type), modification one (I-3 type), three step one of four and five stand-up ones(I-4 type), and four step one of four and five stand-up ones (I-5 type). Tree and Antler-typed Diadem is three part in according to the step of Mountain(; 山)-typed and cross-shaped of the upper part. Three one of three step one of Mountain(;山)-typed and two Antler- typed (II-1 type), cross-shaped one(II-2 type), four step one(II-3 type).
Appraisal of the Period and the Place of Production for Earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea
Lee, Han-Sang ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 35~50
People in the Ancient Society of Korea liked golden earrings. The Royal Family or the nobility wanted to make more splendorous golden earrings in order to display their high-ranking positions. However, appearances or production methods of golden earrings differ a little by countries, for example, Goguryeo, Silla, Baekje, Gaya, etc. Therefore, by closely examining articles discovered from tombs, we can know which country they were from. In particular, earrings of Goguryeo and Silla are similar to each other while those of Baekje and Gaya are similar. This would be closely related with political relationships between the two countries. The shape of golden earrings in the middle of the
century A.D. is relatively simple. However, since the latter half of the
century, golden earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea changed in the direction of long length or significantly splendorous surface decoration. Accordingly, we can estimate the period of production by analyzing golden earrings discovered from a tomb. In addition, the above trend was common all the earrings in the Ancient Society of Korea, which implies that each nation closely exchanged reciprocally at that time.
Looking at the Traditional Accessories of the Joseon Dynasty with Wide Opened Eyes - focusing on Norigae and Hair Ornaments for Ladies -
Chang, Sook-Whan ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 51~70
The purpose of this study is not to look at the history of traditional accessories or the characteristics of their shapes but to discern imitations ￡Tom authentic items by exploring imitations of traditional accessories-- many of which were made in the late 20th century -- from private museums and university museums in order to help scholars assess relics. Among many kinds of accessories in the Joseon dynasty, only norigae, one of the representative accessories, and women hair ornaments are selected for this study since many of the relics have been recovered to date. Given this, this study will consider firstly the general history of norigae and women's hair ornaments, and secondly, prove several examples as relics from the late 20th century while they are marked as relics from the Joseon dynasty by comparing authentic items. Thirdly, among the imitations of the late 20th century, this study will find those so-called "original" imitations whose production origins are unidentified Fourthly, this study will explore the imitations, which were influenced by the influx of items and materials from China. It is important to discern low-quality relics as well as to correct the production time. Some producers exercised their creativity and made relics non-native to Korea. These relics shouldn't be presented at international exhibitions. Restored relics should be noted so and their quality should be equal to the authentic items. It is suggested that relics without the identity and quality of native Korean relics not baffle cultural interchanges and enhance national glory.
Study on the Characteristics of Each Period to Identify the Women's Costume of the Joseon Dynasty. - Based on the Excavated Costumes from
Song, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 71~86
The Purpose of this article is to study the excavated women's costume of the Joseon Dynasty, and to help identify the period of those costumes with the time of the burial unknown. The excavated women's costume is concentrated in 16th to 17th century, and the reason is due to the method of the burial. The characteristics of costumes from each period is as follows. The special features about 15th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong(round-collared jacket), Dae-gum style shirt(shirt with the squared collar facing each other), and skirt with horizontal dart. The 16th century costumes are the women's Dan-ryeong, wide Jegori with various length, skirt with horizontal dart, skirt with its hem folded, and pants with shoulder strap. In the 17th century, the formal dress changes to Won-sam from Dan-ryeong. The collar changes from the squared shape to the cut Dang-ko collar, and the skirt with its hem folded is not seen after the early 17th century. The long jacket changes to Dang-ui and gets settled, and the clothes becomes smaller and tighter. In the 18th century, the women's formal dress gets settled to Won-sam and Dang-ui, and the pants with shoulder strap is no longer seen. Jegori becomes shorter and smaller compared to those from the 17th century, and again gets wider and bigger in the late 18th century, and it leads to the change of making a big sized shroud.
A Study on Flower Patterns Found in the Fabrics of the Joseon Dynasty
Cho, Hyo-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 87~101
The purpose of this study is to identity the representative flower patterns in the Joseon Dynasty and investigate their chronological transitions. In the early Joseon Dynasty (i.e. 16th century), lotus patterns were very popular. Often lotus patterns were twisted around by ivy-leaves or decorated with treasures pattern in the margin. In the mid Joseon Dynasty (i.e. from 17th to mid 18th century), however, lotus patterns evolved from the typical lotus and ivy pattern and diversified into four types. In the 19th century, lotus pattern almost disappeared from the textiles of everyday dresses and were only found in the textiles of formal dresses or in special cases as in the cover pages of Buddhist scriptures. Poeny patterns was rarely used in textiles of 16th century, presumably because of the huge popularity of the lotus pattern. However, suddenly in the 17th century, Poeny patterns appeared quite frequently. There were 3 types of Poeny patterns. Poeny patterns became more popular over the years and it finally became a primary motive in textiles patterns for 100 years starting in the late 19th century. There were two types of Poeny patterns : one was realistic and true to life even in sizes, the other was more symbolic. Textile patterns combining four kinds of flowers started to appear from the late Koryo Dynasty but Flower patterns representing four seasons with distinct shapes appeared only in the 17th century. They could be categorized into three types. In the late 18th century, Flower patterns representing four seasons no longer appears in textile patterns, presumably due to a new preference for lucky omen over natural motives.
Joseons Badge System for Military Ranks and Practices
Lee, Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 102~117
This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.
The Periodization of Men's Coat(Peonbokpo) of the Joseon Dynasty Based On Excavated Costumes
Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 118~133
The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.
Intriguing Review of Embroidery in the Joseon Dynasty - Focusing on Hwarrot and Screen -
Kim, Tae-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 134~152
In this paper, embroidery works with a certain date are divided by a category, and they are reviewed in terms of original fabrics, embroidery patterns, the form of an artwork, embroidery techniques, and etc with the aim of the understanding of the Joseon period embroidery. In the second part, I examine the history of Korean embroidery from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon dynasty along with the written records and extant embroidery works. The third part, Joseon embroidery revealed by the analysis of the remaining embroidery works, divides Joseon embroidery by two kinds, bridal robe and rank badge as well as an embroidery screen. Through the examination of these extant works, I try to rediscover the historic significance of Joseon embroidery, and also hope to help people to gain an expert opinion on Joseon embroidery.
The Structure and the Characteristics of the Patterned Textiles in the Joseon Dynasty
Park, Yoon-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 153~165
The methods used in determining the weaving period of the textiles comprises not only radiocarbon dating but also discrimination of the motif and the textile structure. This study surveys the variation of the structure and the characteristics of the patterned textile of the Joseon dynasty to determine the weaving period. The number of twill gradually decreased in the Joseon dynasty while satin weave became more popular and the non-patterned twill almost vanished after 1600 A.D. The patterned plain weave was started to weave from the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but this has been shifted to twill, satin weave, floated weave, or the textiles with combined techniques more than 2 kinds after 1800 A.D. For the twist of threads, the number of the fabrics with Z-twisted thread in the warp and the non-twisted thread in the weft showed peak in 1600 A.D. and gradually decreased afterward. After 1600 A.D., the textile without twist became general trend.The satin weave started to appear with the 5-end satin in the beginning of the Joseon dynasty but the 8-end satin started to appear from the middle of 17th century and got more popularity with time. At the same period, the patterned textile on the ground of the satin weaved with the different techniques from the earlier period started to appear. The twist of the satin in the 1600 A.D. showed similar trends as twill, this general trend resulted from the fact that the non-twisted thread in the weaving became more popular with the time at that period.
Present Situations of the Remaining Korean Armors and Helmets of Joseon Dynasty and their Periodization for A Better Appraisal
Park, Ga-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 166~177
This is a basic study of the remaining armors and helmets of the Joseon period for our better understanding and better maintenance of them. For the purpose, this paper shall try to show the present situations of the remaining armor and helmets of the period in Korea, and their typical classification for periodization, and the nomenclature about them. First, to oversee the present situations of the remaining armor and helmets of the period, study was done about the kinds of armors and helmets, their users, and their possessors today. It was found that the exact dates and users were unclear for many cases of the armors and helmets under our consideration. It is understandable when we consider many of them were exported to foreign countries, instead of being well-preserved in Korea upon excavations. Secondly, for their typical classifications for periodization, types were delineated from the pictures and drawings in reference to the periodical changes of them from Korean historical records. The result was that we can find out 4 types of armors, and 3 types of helmets, with their combinations. This shall be usefully applied for the better periodization of the remaining items. Thirdly, we come to the problem of naming of the remaining armors and helmets. For better nomenclature of the remains all the names of the armors and helmets for the Joseon period are collected from historical literature, to figure out some principles of nomenclature for them. I found some discrepancies with the present names of them, and my propositions are suggested to replace them.
The Appraisal of Female Jackets from the Period of
Choi, Eun-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 178~197
Due to the inflow of the western culture since the 19th century, female skirts and jackets have been changed considerably in detail though their basic composition was maintained. The analysis on female jackets from the start of the modern period to 1960s has been undertaken with artefacts as well as reports and research dissertations related to them. For period appraisal, analysis was divided into several periods which are from 1890s to 1910s, and every 10 years afterwards. As a result, aspects for the appraisal in each period was found. Aspects for period appraisal in modern jackets can be a change in total length and side length, a change in shape of the sleeves (from straight to round), a change in width, and a difference in closed shape of the collars. Material and color can be another aspect which shows fashionable material or new materials (man-made textile or nylon) of each period, color combination of surface and lining material as well as other parts of the jacket, use of a stiffener made with net or sheer textiles. Research using books and archives is important for the appraisal of the garment artifact. However, most of all, one should have the attitude of examining the artifacts frequently in order to achieve deeper understanding and an eye for accurate appraisal.
Conservation of Embroidered Textiles and Textile Works
Ryu, Hyo-Seon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 198~210
The purpose of this study is to establish the conservation methods of embroidered textiles and textile works. The conservation of remained textiles is consisting of examination, cleaning, support and consolidation, restoration, and storage and display process. It aims to prevent the damage on textile remains for long time display and storage and to prolong their aesthetics and functionality. The embroidered textiles and textiles works, which are remained by handed down or excavated or included in the Buddhist are embossed with colorful threads on the fabrics: the stitches include embroideries on clothing, bed clothes, wrapping clothes, utensil pouches, panels and Buddhist goods; textile works include hats, ornaments, shoes, attachments of clothes etc. These are composed of mainly fabrics, precious metals, leathers and precious stones, etc., and are fabricated by several techniques such as braiding, twining, sewing as well as weaving. Metal threads were also used to add a decorative effect on these goods. In order to conserve and preserve the remained goods, a special care must be taken on the metal threads, which are the most fragile material among the constituents. Hence, characteristics of metal threads and its cleaning methods, general conservation techniques of a rank badge, which is brocaded and partly attached to Cheogori and Samo(men's hat) from the excavated old tombs are introduced here.
Analysis and Conservation of Historic Textiles - Theory and Practice -
Oh, Joon-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 211~231
To conserve historic textiles, analyses of textile materials, pollutants and deterioration are prerequisite steps. Based upon analytical results, guides for conservation of historic textiles are established. In analyses of textile materials, pollutants and deterioration, there are chemical methods(burning, solubility and staining), physical methods(microscopy and density) and instrumental analysis(Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy (FT-IR), Fourier Transform Raman Spectroscopy(FT-Raman), Gas Chromatography(GC), Mass Spectroscopy(MS), X-Ray Fluorescence (EDXRF, WDXRF), Energy Dispersive Spectroscopy(EDS), and X-Ray Diffraction(XRD), Tensile Testing Machine etc.). Combination of qualitative and quantitative analyses makes accurate diagnosis of textile condition possible. As examples of analyses and conservation of historic textiles, Chuninsan(19 century) similar to sunshade with handing down historic textile and golden decorative skirt(17 century) with excavated costume are taken.
Proposition for Duplicaion of Traditional Costumes for Alternate Exhibition
Park, Sung-Sil ; Park, Chi-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 5, 2008, Pages 232~246
The museum starts from drawing many visitors by opening remarkable exhibitions, and finally aims to realize the social and educational value. However artifacts on exhibition have antithetic conditions like limitation of collection, problems of preservation, etc. Already the museum exhibited paintings and fine arts reproduced with complete fidelity, so artistic artifacts have meet the aims of exhibition. we would like to make an alternative proposal about costume relics in this way. Costume relics need to reproduce in two ways. The one way is to reproduce with complete fidelity and the other way is to restore the original form. The reproduction and restoration need a concrete survey, historical research, textile like artifacts. Furthermore it is important to reconstruct breakage and discoloration. Permanent exhibition consisted of reproductions helps appreciating as well as protecting artifacts, so exhibition effect will be enhanced.