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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 58, Issue 10 - Dec 2008
Volume 58, Issue 9 - Nov 2008
Volume 58, Issue 8 - Sep 2008
Volume 58, Issue 7 - Aug 2008
Volume 58, Issue 6 - Jul 2008
Volume 58, Issue 5 - Jun 2008
Volume 58, Issue 4 - May 2008
Volume 58, Issue 3 - Mar 2008
Volume 58, Issue 2 - Feb 2008
Volume 58, Issue 1 - Jan 2008
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Formativeness of Shamanism Expressed in Modern Fashion
Kwon, Jin ; Kwon, Myoung-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 1~11
The purpose of this study was to investigate how formativeness of shamanism has expressed and developed in modern fashion. Formative expression of shamanism in modern fashion has expressed in the way of on style, color, material and pattern as follows; Style has made animal and human incorporated by expressing abstract animal on the part or whole of costume and it has reconstructed traditional shaman costume into modern costume. Skin colors of living bodies which exist in nature, such as black, blown, yellow and grey, were used to symbolize spirit and low brightness of colors such as blue, white and black were also used to symbolize hyperspace. Artificial materials which imitate animal figure and genuine materials from animal were used. Various natural materials used in traditional shaman costume were also used. Animal patterns and abstract patterns symbolizing the celestial heaven and lower world, and patterns shown on wall painting and rock painting has appeared. The meaning of shamanism in modern fashion can be identified as interchangeable movement of time and space, a cosmic outlook on the world and ration. Spiritually designed costume has made fashion move to hyperspace in spirit trip. Modern fashion with shamanism has expressed its cosmic outlook on the world or universal wish beyond human's real world by patterns such as bird figure which means the celestial heaven and lower world. Corporation and transition of human and animal were symbolized as shaman hypernatural intercourse with designs expressed in costume using a part of animal or animal's characteristics.
Factors relating to Changes in Costume Style of Stone Statues at Tombs of the Emerging Gentry (Sadaebu) in the Joseon Dynasty
Lee, Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 12~23
This study reports the costume changes and the factors of the changes from stone status in joseon dynasty. It can be summarized as follows: First, the artisan for the statues is one of the most important factors for the costume changes. The artisans who were involved in building the King's tomb were also made the stone statues for scholars' tombs. This results in that the style of the King's tomb influenced the costumes of stone statues for scholars' tombs. Some craftsmen who were buddhist monks also influenced the introduction of buddhist arts. Second, the stone statues are classified into 3 types according to the dead's social position: the civil officer statues, the military official statues, and the servant statues are installed for the civil officer, the military officers, and others, respectively. This principle was applied well. However, the civil official statues are mainly installed in late joseon dynasty because the civil officers are socially preferred to the military officers in late joseon dynasty. Third, there are two types of civil officer statues; Gongbok type and jobok type. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were mainly installed in early joseon dynasty and civil officer statues of jobok type were begun to be installed in the early 16th century. Civil officer statues of Gongbok type were fade out after the late 17th century. Fourth, there are three reasons why civil officer statues of jobok type were installed at the officers's tombs 270 years earlier than at the Kings' tombs: 1) Introduction of Daemyunghoejeon and its application, 2) an establishment of a system that requires to prepare jobok individually, and 3) self-confidence of scholars' class on political and cultural maturity.
A Study on the Thermal Characteristics of Comfortable Heat-Retaining Winter Clothing
Song, Min-Kyu ; Kwon, Myoung-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 24~34
The purpose of this study was to create a database of information on fabric factors(i.e., fabric insulation, fabric weight, clothing weight, fabric thickness, air permeability, and water vapor resistance) of clothing used for insulations, to compare them according to clothing types, and to estimate thermal resistance of clothing using these factors. A total of 25 kinds of clothing were selected(9 types for suits, 6 types of jacket, 5 types for shirts, and 5 types for trousers). The results of this study were as follows; Thermal insulation of clothing showed the highest positive correlation(0.85, p>0.01) with thermal insulation of fabric and very high positive correlation with water vapor resistance, fabric thickness, fabric weight, and clothing weight, respectively, 0.77, 0.77, 0.73, 0.71(p>0.01). Fabric weight of jacket was higher than that of shirts and trousers. Air permeability of shirts was the highest of clothing types. Clothing insulation of jacket was higher than that of shirts and trousers and its fabric insulation was also the highest of clothing types. Regression analysis showed that fabric thickness, water vapor resistance, and fabric weight would be useful factors for estimating the thermal resistance of clothing.
A Study on the Classification of Neck-Base Circumference by Three-Dimensional Automatic Measurements of the Human Body - With the Focus on Women in their 20's -
Cho, Shin-Hyun ; Seok, Hye-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 35~41
The purposes of this study lied in the analysis and classification of neck-base circumference shapes of the women in their twenties, by the application of three-dimensional automatic measurement data of human body, and thereby in the understanding of neck-base circumference shapes by the classified type. The findings are as follows: 1. The comparison of three-dimensional human body measurement items relating to the neck-base circumference part of the women in their twenties indicated that the largest individual difference was found in cervicale-center-anterior neck radius than in other items. 2. The factor analysis, which was conducted to extract the factors constituting the neck-base circumference, showed the shape of cervicale(factor 1), the shape of section neck(factor 2), the thickness of neck(factor 3), the shape of anterior neck(factor 4), and the shape of side neck(factor 5). 3. The classification of the neck-base circumference shapes resulted in three types. Type 1 was the shape of a reverse triangle hanging forward, Type 2 was that of a circle, and Type 3 was that of an oval open to the sides.
The Development of Fashion Design with Korean Images Using Digital Media - 3D Modeling Based On Maya (Qualoth) Program -
Lee, Yoon-Kyung ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 42~53
This study is about the development of Fashion Design using of Korean Motive applied Digital Medium. With rapid change during the 21st century, digital media has emerged as the most important communication tool to facilitate speedy and interactive conversation. The recent emergence of 'Mass Customization' is a good reflection of digital transition's interactive features, realizing product variation and customization through flexibility and immediate responsiveness. In this so-called digital era, fashion is a tool that facilitates the use of digital media, while acting as the object, or the purpose, where digital media can be applied. This study looked at the development situations and future utilization method regarding digital fashion, which was recreated through digital media. In this study, a new design process was developed through digital media and actually manufactured Korean image clothing to reflect the motif of plant found in Korean folk paintings. Three-Dimensional(3D) digital shape was dressed in virtual clothing for comparison, thereby adding some features of textile design to three-Dimensional(3D) shape. Through the process, the study can provide various potential accesses to future development of fashion design utilizing digital media.
A Study of the Changes in Dress Wearers' Images in Relationto the Changes in the Size and Area Ratio of Polka Dots Relative to Coloration
Kim, Sun-Mi ; Jeong, Su-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 54~68
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of dot pattern size(0.8, 1.8, 2.5, 5, 8), color combination(BG/R, Y/B), area-ratio on image formation. Sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli were 20 color pictures manipulated with the combination of dot pattern size, color combination, and area-ratio using computer simulation. The subjects were 240 female undergraduates living in Gyeongnam-do. Image factor of the stimulus was composed of 5 different components, visibility, attractiveness, cuteness, stability and high class image. In the cuteness, color combination, dot pattern size showed independent effect. In the stability, area-ratio, dot pattern size showed independent effect. Interaction effects of color and area-ratio combination was significant on cuteness. For visibility image 8cm yellow dot/blue background, for attractiveness image BG/R coloration, for cuteness image Y/B coloration and for stability image 0.8cm yellow dot/blue background were effective. According to the variation of dot pattern size, color combination and area-ratio, it was investigated that the images for a dress wearer were expressed diversely, were shown differently in image dimensions, and could be produced to different images.
Iconological Interpretation of the Fashion of Rock Stars in the 1960's
Lee, Jung-Won ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 69~84
Considering that star reflects the image of current society, analyzing fashion of celebrity is to read ideal type and demands of beauty of the era. Especially the rock music-represents youth culture that last on present day-born in 1960's, and it is considered to a significant decade in pop music history. Thus this research will analysis rock star's fashions in iconological view of E. Panofsky. The aim of this document is Clarifying how the fashion of pop stars appeared and what formed its worth. As a result of analyzing fashions of rock star in 1960's, it is available to find these sameness and difference. The Mods borrowed images of the past, and introduce the elite modernism and shows very urban style. The Folky and the Psychedelic showed post-structuralism propensity against industrial society, in the case of the Folky it induced styles that symbolize labor class to realize social worth. And as an aftereffect of war and repulsion of commercial worth, they embody nature-returning peasant look so that it shows pastoral mood in total. The Psychedelic express somewhat struggling escapism and it generated illusionary images with quests to superego and glorification to psychedelic status. The Folky and the Psychedelic are same in the side of introducing existentialism, this occurred by using ethnic factor. But the Folky showed plain outlook by pop propensity, on the other hand, the Psychedelic showed magnificent outlook such as optical art, pop art, and futurism ought to express merrymaking culture. And common feature of these is introduction of unisex mod which is came after the change of gender role. Thus each star or group has professed special ideology into their culture and it is reflected to acts which is including music and dress style. This affair is analyzed like these two things. The mass of people schemes their identity with inducing special ideology to their culture at the first. And the purpose to archive cultural hegemony in inter-social class at the next.
The Effects of Socio-cultural Attitudes Toward Appearance, Self-Esteem, and the Perception of Physical Attractiveness on Behaviors of Facial and Hair Care
Hwang, Yun-Jung ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 85~95
The purpose of this study is to research appearance management behaviors through their interests in appearance and the degree of their management among the undergraduates to research the effects of sociocultural attitudes toward appearance, self-esteem, and perceptive physical attractiveness on their face and hair management behaviors and to provide the effective data to form the marketing strategies for the beauty and fashion markets for the undergraduates. Total 900 questionnaires were distributed to the female/male undergraduates students in Daegu and Gyungbuk. 873 questionnaires out of 900 were collected and 825 questionnaires were selected as the final objects of this study. Frequency analysis, factor analysis, and Cronbach a were used to analyze the data using SPSS 12.0 statistics program. To examine the effects among variables, univariate analysis of variance and multiple regression analysis were conducted. The followings are the findings of analyzing and considering the research results through statistically processing each variable and those of the existing researches. 1. In terms of face management behaviors, internalization and awareness as sociocultural attitudes and social physical attractiveness among physical attractiveness perceptive showed positive effects. 2. In hair management behaviors, social physical and personal physical attractiveness out of physical attractiveness perceptive seemed to have positive effects.
The Effects of the Internalization of Socio-cultural Values Relating to Appearance on Adolescents' Body Images and Clothing Behaviors
Lee, Mi-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 96~109
The proposes of this study were to exam the effects of internalization of sociocultural values toward appearance on adolescents' body image and clothing behaviors, and to analyze these effects by adolescents' sex and age variables. The research method was survey and the subjects were 447 male and female adolescents in Daejeon, Korea. The questionnaire consisted of 4 measuring instruments; internalization of sociocultural values toward appearance, body image, clothing behaviors, and demographic attributions. The data were analyzed by factor analysis, t-test, variance analysis, Duncan's multiple range test, using SPSS program. The results are as follows. First, most of adolescents showed positive attitude on sociocultural values toward appearance, and female and high school students revealed higher level of internalization than male and middle school students. Second, as a result of factor analysis, 3 factors emerged in body image(appearance interest, appearance evaluation, and weight concern) and 4 factors emerged in clothing behaviors(clothing interest & psychological dependency, clothing ostentation, clothing conformity, and clothing comfort). Third, internalization of sociocultural values toward appearance had important effects on adolescents' body image and clothing behaviors; the adolescents who had high level internalization showed more interest on their appearance and weight and higher clothing interest & psychological dependency and clothing ostentation and lower clothing comfort than other adolescents who had middle or low level internalization. Forth, internalization of sociocultural values toward appearance showed many different effects on body image and clothing behaviors by adolescents' sex and age variables.
Collaboration Among Design Fields With a Focus on the Fashion Industry
Jeong, Hoon-Sil ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 110~123
The objectives of this study are to define the fundamental notions of collaboration in design field. The results of this study are summarized as follows: Firstly, collaboration means a cooperative work which are cooperatively done by collabarator and collaboratee on the equal status within a certain period of time, based on core ability of each of them. This cooperative work is presented with a visual image based on the identity of participants, and it creates an added value. Collaboration is different from convergence and hybrid in the methodological aspects and from brand alliance and strategic alliance in the aspects of the subject of project. Secondly, collaboration has been developing through step of using the specific ability, step of sharing each core abilities, and step of fusing their identities, in a view of the sphere of cooperative work and the intimate relations in reciprocity. Thirdly, according to strategic purpose, collaboration can be classified into value ascending collaboration, image changing collaboration, business-field extension collaboration, and event collaboration. Fourthly, production methods of collaboration consist of limited edition method, premium line method, common line method, producing a collaborative product, and so on. Fifthly, differentiation effect, image upgrade effect, production of higher value-added products, sale increase, diversification of business, sharing the targets, and promotion effect are achievable through collaboration. Sixthly, to make progress in collaboration successfully, the compatibility of combination between collaborator and collaboratee, the superiority of collaboratee, definitude of collaboration, the fit method of collaboration, the novelty of collatoration, possibility of issuing of collaboration, and perfection of collabo-product must be the points which deserve our attention.
A Study of the Costume Expressed in the Reliefs of Tribute on the Stairs of the Apadana palace of Persepolis in the Persian Achaemenes Dynasty
YiChang, Young-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 124~144
This study is taken as the part of the cultural research on the Kaspian coastal region, which has a great significance as the start of human civilization and in the history of cultural exchange. This study is focused on the Achaemenid dynasty of the great Persian Empire that Iranians have established on the Parsa region, south of Iran on 6-4th century B.C. This research limits to the tribute-relief illustrated on the stairs of Apadana Palace in Persepolis during the age of Achaemenid dynasty. The objective of this research is classify and analyze Persians and its neighboring tribes, their dresses and the detailed elements of the dresses to complete the typology of the dresses in that period and use this to categorize the features of nomadic and agricultural tribes of costal areas of the Mediterranean Sea to Northern India and study the cultural exchange and its effects. Furthermore, we aim to use the above typology to revise the typology of the Korean traditional dresses that were formerly just sorted as a type of coat-trousers that classified as a nomadian Scythian dress type. The results of above analysis are as follows: The clothing of many tribes living in the coastal areas of Mediterranean Sea to the Northern India in the Achaemenid dynasty of Persia on 6th century B.C. shows that the typology of the dressings have close relationship with the region they live in. Such typology is displayed differently from tribes east and west of Iran. The tribes west of Iran showed characteristics of an agricultural tribe and the tribes east of Iran displayed features of a nomadic tribe. In addition, uniformed styles of dressing were displayed amongst many tribes sharing a common lineage. Such inference came from the fact that similar styles of dressings were identified not only in tribes east of Iran but also in tribes west of Iran.
The Ethnic Look Featured on Vivienne Tam's Collection from 1996 to 2005
Ro, Mi-Kyung ; Kim, Chan-Ju ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 145~157
Vivienne Tam was born in mainland China and educated in Hong Kong and has worked mainly in New York. Within multi-cultural background, she has shown unique fashion designs where western styles and China esprit were harmonized.. This study analyzed the ethnic look featured on Vivienne Tam's design to identify how she has expressed her ethnic identity into fashion. Photos featuring ethnic appeal among her New York collection from 1996 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed in terms of shape/silhouette, color, fabric, motifs, detail and accessaries. She utilized frequently chinese motifs and patterns such as bamboo, panda, budha, flowers, letters, and masks. Secondly she modified the shapes of Chinese traditional costume like Quipao to render ethnic appeal. Color, fabric and detail like frog and embroidery also contributed to enhance China mood. Comparatively, she used western clothing items including shirts, blouses, skirts, pants, dresses, and coats and maintained the silhouette tight and fit so that most her designs look wearable and westernized.
The Changes of Feminine Image Expressed in the Creative Dancing Wear - focusing on Persona and Animus -
Kim, Heung-Kyung ; Kim, Sun-Hwa ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 6, 2008, Pages 158~171
The purpose of the study was to examine how changes of women's sexual identity and gender role were expressed in designs of dance costumes by analyzing costumes used in creative dance works. Related articles, dance magazines, Internet information and dance costumes were used for the analysis of various performance cases to express persona and animus of a woman. The results of the study were as follows: 1. As a woman's role, persona, has recently changed into active propensity, dance directors have come to prefer bold and daring image of female dancer to strongly express animus, the masculine inclination of a woman. 2. Female dancers' costumes were frequently associated with daring body exposure such as body painting on half-naked body, to reflect the above and a number of female dancers dressed daringly in masculine style trom head to toe. Also, pants or hot pants instead of skirt were frequently used as dance costumes to symbolize animus. In addition, colors in dance costumes became vivid and bold in comparison to the simple and soft colors used in the past.