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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 58, Issue 10 - Dec 2008
Volume 58, Issue 9 - Nov 2008
Volume 58, Issue 8 - Sep 2008
Volume 58, Issue 7 - Aug 2008
Volume 58, Issue 6 - Jul 2008
Volume 58, Issue 5 - Jun 2008
Volume 58, Issue 4 - May 2008
Volume 58, Issue 3 - Mar 2008
Volume 58, Issue 2 - Feb 2008
Volume 58, Issue 1 - Jan 2008
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Practice of Hapbong found in the Late Joseon Dynasty - Focusing on Men's Official Uniforms & Women's Formal Wear -
Ku, Nam-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 1~17
One of features of fashion in Joseon period is culture of overlapping of several clothes. This culture appeared with Hapbong(合縫:sewing of several clothes as one) at late Joseon period and developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture. Hapbong is mainly identified at men's official uniform such as Jaebok(祭服), Jobok(朝服), Kwanbok(官福), Gugunbok(具軍服), and women's formal dress such as Wonsam(圓衫) and Dangeui(唐衣) which formed several clothes get to be a set. Such fashion was designed to maintain dignity and power while simple to wear. And It has the trace of overlapping visually on the collar, sleeve, breast-tie and others. Hapbong is attributable to thoughts of practical science, post-toadyism, modernization, renovated the system of clothing, and advanced sewing technique.
An Analysis of the Fashion Trends in Korea over the Last 10 years(1996-2005)
Ko, Eun-Ju ; Lee, Jee-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 18~28
The purpose of this study is to examine the Characteristics of Fashion Trends(
) of Korea by the trend elements - style, fabric and color. The results of this study are as followed. During 10years, 'modern(18%)', 'elegant(11%)' and 'romantic(10%)' styles were shown in order, and colors of YR(17%), Y(14%), R(13%) and PB(11%) were shown in order. Considering tones, m(16%), d(12%), gy(11%) and s(10%) tones were in the order of frequency. In the fabric trend 'elegant(19%)', 'modern(14%)' and 'natural(14%)' images showed the high frequency. Since 2000's, style trends and fabric trends were subdivided, and the contrary images coexisted. The trend images of 'natural', 'retro', 'manish' and 'fun' were mainly used in fabric trend, and 'romantic' and 'classic' images were frequently used in style trend. The changes of trend images in style and fabric have been similar until the early 2000's but the cycle of trend of style became shorter than fabric trend. Therefore the cycle of fabric trend should be changed to be a short term and subdivided in company with style trend.
A Study on the Insulation of Thermal Clothing Under Dynamic Air Condition
Song, Min-Kyu ; Kwon, Myoung-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 29~37
The purpose of this study was to investigate insulation of thermal clothing under still and dynamic air conditions(with 2.1m/sec air velocity) and decrease of insulation in both conditions, to analyze correlations among them, and to estimate insulation and decrease of insulation using factors, such as fabric insulation, fabric weight, clothing weight, air permeability, and water vapor resistance. A total of 25 kinds of clothing were tested(9 types for suits, 6 types of jacket, 5 types for shirts, and 5 types for trousers). The results of this study were as follows; Thermal resistance of clothing under the dynamic air condition decreased comparing to that of clothing under still air condition in all types of clothing. Decrease in shirts was the biggest(47.5%), followed by suits(39.51%), trousers(37.48%), and jackets(34.49%) in sequence. Thermal resistance of clothing under dynamic air condition showed very high correlation(0.98, p<0.01) with that of clothing under still air condition, followed by thermal resistance of fabric(0.86, p<0.01). Decrease in thermal resistance of clothing showed the highest correlation with air permeability. It didn't show correlation with other factors. Regression analysis showed that fabric thickness would be useful factor for estimating thermal resistance of clothing and air permeability also would be useful factor for estimating decrease in thermal resistance of clothing.
A Study on the Semiological Similarity between Sipseungji and the Cutting Shape of Korean
Jung, Ok-Im ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 38~50
In the late Joseon period, as Korea suffered from two battles such as Byeongjahoran and Imjinweran, the people wanted to find comfortable shelters, which caused Bigi to prevail. That is, as an alternative to find a shelter which is physically prosperous and mentally comfortable and to get out of turbulent days, the people desired the utopian world of Sipseungji. The Sipseungji of 'Namsako' was deeply rooted in the society, which had a great impact on it. However, it is very surprising to find that the Sipseungji is metaphored in the process to make the shapes of Korean
which are a represented product of our culture. In other words, the ideal world we desired is a clothe itself which wraps human bodies, not any mysterious place that can not be found. They wanted to deliver the assumption that the ideal world is in humans themselves through clothes. Though a shaman sign of Sip (meaning ten), the Sipseungjiseol of Namsako became rooted in the living of the common people, which caused social confusion, but the Sipseungji suggests that as humans are the very lucky place, the utopian world is in themselves. Therefore, it should not be overlooked that the shapes of Korean
have instructional values that can not be found in those of other foreign cultures.
The Formative Characteristics of the Jik-Ryeong-Gyoim Style of Men's Coat Excavated from the Yeosan Song's Family Tombs
Lee, Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 51~67
The purpose of this study is to investigate men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style that were excavated from the tombs of the Yeosan Song family. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Except Dapho, all of the above mentioned coat were usually worn in the late 15th and late 16th centuries. Jikryeong and Cheolik were often worn in both of the centuries. But Aekjureum was often worn in the late 15th century and Jikryeong with no side hem and Jikryeong of Dopo style, in the late 16th century. Generally, the men's coat of Jikryeongkoim style had a short fore part and a long rear part, doubled kalgit of banmokpan style and a narrow sleeve in the late 15th century, while fore and rear parts of the same length, kalgit of ordinary style and the sleeve of bean chaff shape in the late 16th century. In both of the centuries, the coat had the outer Seop that was doubled and used short, narrow coat strings to be adjusted. Samgakmu was used to Jikryeong with no side hem and Aekjureum. Out of the coat, those which were lined or padded or quilted with cotten used Samgakmu, but those which were unlined didn't. To adjust the coat, usually, a pair of short, narrow coat strings was used. The coat had the coat strings directly stitched on them or indirectly connected to them by means of the coat string hanger.
A Study on Dyes Using Natural Medicinal Ingredients that are Effective Against Skin Damage Disorders
Jang, Hyun-Joo ; Ko, Soon-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 68~80
The purpose of this study is, as a prior stage to produce manufactured medical goods, to examine literature on the medicinal efficacy of natural dyes that can be used to produce medical goods, and to experiment the possibility of dyeing of some medicinal ingredients that have not been used as natural dyes until now. For this study, 44 types of medicinal ingredients such as Gyomaekchil(buckwheat), Nohoiyeob(aloe), Pogongyounng(dandelion), and Jibooja(broom cypress) were used. First, they were classified by a thermal sensation such as hot, warm, neutral, cool, and cold feeling, and by their characteristics of complex tastes such as sweet, sour, bitter, salty, pungent, astringent, and flat tastes. And then they were dyed with two types of mordant, resulting to a total of 132 types of dyed cloths. The 132 dyed cloths could be classified as five types of colors: 89 types(67.42%) of yellow series, 25 types(18.94%) of yellow-red series, 6 types(4.55%) of green-yellow series, 6 types(4.55%) of purple series, and 6 types(4.55%) of purple-blue series. The results of this study found that there were various medicinal ingredients that had efficacy to cure skin disorders and also could be used as natural dyes.
A Study on the Fashion Illustration of Humor Images Using 2D Graphics
Kim, Hye-Ran ; Kim, Soo-Kyong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 81~98
This research aims to analyze humorous images expressed in 2D graphics fashion illustrations and to propose application of 2D graphics in humorous images for fashion illustrations to suggest a more creative and relevant fashion illustration for contemporary culture. The result of this research were as follows: First, theories on reaction of humor can be classified into Incongruity theory, Superiority theory and Arousal and Relief theory. Humor in visual arts are classified in Visual Parody, Visual Pun, Visual Paradox and Visual Satire. Second, Visual Pun, Visual Parody, and Visual Satire are used for visualizing fashion illustration, and the foundations for many humor images were simple-colored, imaginative, and unreal settings. And it was also found out that the physical proportion of the models generally was 1(head):7(entire body), 1:8, 1:15 and the models were usually laughing and smiling. Tone was usually pastel and vivid, and posture was usually standing-position or sitting-position. Third, based on such results, fashion illustration works of humor image using 2D graphics were created. To concretize the humor image, 'gift' as a concept was chosen. Humor alleviates the tension and stress. It also brings laughter and pleasure to people's lives. Therefore humor image will be an effective way of expanding creativity in modern fashion illustration.
The Influence of the Quality of Service in the Beauty Industry on Customer Satisfaction, and the Relationship between Switching Cost and Customer Loyalty
Kim, Mi-Jung ; Lim, Young-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 99~113
This paper provides the foundation to settle the new paradigm in the beauty industry service quality by confirming the beauty industry service quality influence on customer satisfaction and loyalty through the actual verification. The scale of this study for measurement of beauty industry service quality is confirmed through the certification of reliability and feasibility with questionnaire investigation after confirmation of contents and preliminary feasibility. The dimensions and items for measurement of beauty industry service quality are selected with service ability(6), tangible(4), responsiveness(3), reliability(2), conveniency(2). And it is confirmed that the level of service quality is changing unlike a beauty-shop facility or cost recognized traditionally as a key factor to occupy the higher position in competition of beauty-shops. This thesis presents the important point of current issue about kinds of strategy which beauty industry should establish in providing the beauty industry service for occupying higher position in keen competition.
Types and Characteristics of Jeju's Traditional Fur Garments
Ko, Soon-Hee ; Jang, Hyun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 114~128
The current study aims to classify types of traditional fur Garments in Jeju into Dusik(hat), dress, Jokui(socks) and accessaries, and examine characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of museums in Jeju. Dusik is a kind of hat for protection against the cold, and there are badger leather Gamtaes and cow hair Beonggeojis(fur hats). Especially leather gamtae was used to protect against the cold when people hunted roe deers in Mt. Halla. Beonggeoji was producted in the form of felt with fine hair collected coat-shedding of cows and dogs in spring, therefore it was too warm and practical to be damaged from storm or pressure. Fur coat is a general name of dress made of leather without hair. It is a kind of clothes with a hat worn while taking care of horses and cows. Also people wore dog leather topcoats and cow leather topcoats when they hunted in Mt. Halla. As for Jokui, there are leather Beoseon(socks) made of cow leather, leather shoes in the form of straw shoes, and leather Balle embracing the low half of the body warmly. Accessaries include a rectangular cow leather bag for storing an iron piece for making fire. These traditional fur robs in Jeju not only have practicality for protection against the cold, but also symbolized richness by using leathers of badgers, roe deers, etc. that were previous during that times. Also they used partially cut leather for decoration at the edge.
Analysis and Conservation of Metal Thread Made of Proteinaceous Substrate - Golden Decorative Rank Badge of an Official Uniform Excavated from Baekryeong Im's Tomb in the 16th Century of Korea -
Noh, Soo-Jung ; Oh, Joon-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 129~141
Jikgeum(woven with supplementary golden wefts) hyungbae(rank badge) of danryung(official uniform) excavated from Im Backryung'tomb(
) of the Joseon dynasty(
) at Goyang, Gyunggi-Do in 2007, was in a critical condition because of serious collapse of substrate in metal thread. For conservation of hyungbae, metal thread was examined by different scientific methods(Light Microscope, Scanning Electron Microscope and Energy Dispersive X-Rray Spectrometry(SEM-EDS), Fourier Transform Infrared Spectroscopy(FT-IR)). Analytical data showed that metal thread was gilt membrane strip composed of gold leaves and proteinaceous substrate which was probably parchment. To protect collapse of substrate, 1% solution of Paraloid B-72 was infilterated into substrate for consolidation of substrate and it was adhered to warp of fabric in hyungbae, before wet cleaning. After wet cleaning, the most of the gold leaves were restored, which was confirmed by both the examination with the naked eye and the microscopic examination.
The Development of Universal Fashion Design for Disabled Women
Moon, Sun-Jeong ; Chung, Sham-Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 142~150
A universal design means a progressive and challenging design in the 21st century which can satisfy the demands from not only aged people and disabled people but also numerous members of our society. This research aims to apply a universal design commonly used in architecture (environment) and products to costumes, so as to convert the design into a universal fashion which can meet the aesthetic values, desires, and functionality of aged people and disabled women. After applying the said five universal fashion principles and design factors, a total of 20 pieces of universal fashion prototype products are produced through functional designs and designs utilizing knit materials and health & functionality materials. In addition, a direction to develop universal fashion products is suggested for costume manufacturers, for the purpose of facilitating the practical use of a universal fashion. The present author expects that human-centered universal fashion costumes shall propose the orientation of the interest in future new designs, beyond the scope of a jump in the quality of simple functional costumes.
The Impact of Factors of Relationship Marketing in Skin Care Salons Upon the Quality and Outcomes of Relationship
Lee, You-Mi ; Rhee, Nan-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 151~165
The purpose of this study is to establish theoretical basis for relationship marketing exercised in the esthetic industry and to empirically analyze causal relationship among factors of esthetic relationship marketing, together with quality and the performance of the relationship. With empirical research, this study finds out that such relationship marketing factor as customer orientation, employee' expertise, physical property have an impact on the relationship quality between customers and esthetic salons' service providers. Customer satisfaction and trust increase the relationship between service providers and customers, and this also increases repurchase intention of the customer towards the service providers. These are significant findings in that they illustrate the importance of employee' expertise and customer orientation, and physical property in determining satisfaction and trust. The result of this study shows that service providers can enhance customer satisfaction and trust by utilizing relationship marketing more effectively, and can preserve the current customer basis.
A Survey of Korean Firefighters Regarding their Satisfaction with Protective Clothing
Han, Sul-Ah ; Nam, Yun-Ja ; Choi, Young-Lim ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 58, issue 9, 2008, Pages 166~175
For the structural firefighting protective clothing, it can show a synergy effect when it satisfies smart fabric to block off a harmful environmental element and ergonomics design that apply range of motion of human body and appropriate size system. There are various standards about the structural firefighting protective clothing, but it's difficult to find a rule about movement suitability because the performance of the material holds a lot of the rules. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to propose a scheme to evaluate the current structural firefighting protective clothing and to improve movement suitability by research on the actual condition. For this, the survey about wearer acceptability scale on design and size and about improvement requirements was executed gathering firefighters' opinion. Questionnaire was composed with 23 items about satisfaction on current structural firefighting protective clothing, body suitability, movement suitability, improvement requirement and subjective information. As a results, Korean firefighters demand ergonomics design of structural firefighting protective clothing which to minimize restriction of body movement and to maximize body suitability.