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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 59, Issue 10 - Dec 2009
Volume 59, Issue 9 - Nov 2009
Volume 59, Issue 8 - Sep 2009
Volume 59, Issue 7 - Aug 2009
Volume 59, Issue 6 - Jul 2009
Volume 59, Issue 5 - Jun 2009
Volume 59, Issue 4 - May 2009
Volume 59, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 59, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 59, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
Characteristics of Jeogori Found in the Gwan-eum Bodhisattva Statue in Bogwang Temple of Goryeo Dynasty
Park, Yoon-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 1~9
One piece of Jeogori and several books of the Goryeo dynasty were found inside of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple and they were designated as national treasure of Korea, No. 1571. The jeogori was the Jeogsam as the kind of underwear and conjectured as for women by considering its size. The collar of the jeogori was 3cm-wide square-shaped collar without gussit and the sleeve was close to straight line. Also the jeogori was designed without breast ties and could be adjusted by knot button. The fabrics for the jeogori showed similar pattern as complex silk gauze in 1302. It has not been reported yet that the complex silk gauze was used for the Jeogsam from Goryeo Dynasty to Joseon Dynasty. Comparing the Jeogori of the Bogwang temple to those of Goryeo Dynasty, it can be appropriately estimated as the remains of the Goryeo Dynasty since its shape and materials are very similar to those found in the Jeogori's of the Goryeo Dynasty and it was found between the books of the Goryeo Dynasty inside of the knee part of the wooden Buddhist Goddess of Mercy Statue of the Bogwang temple. Although only one piece of Jeogori was found, it's importance in cultural value or in the study of the fabric history cannot be underestimated considering the fact that the Jeogories of the Goryeo Dynasty are scarce, and that the used fabric was not commonly used complex silk gauze, and especially that this Jeogori is the only existing Jeogsam made of complex silk gauze.
A Study on the Figuration of Floral Pattern of Rococo Textiles
Lee, Sun-Hwa ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 10~21
The shape of floral pattern in the period of Rococo are a pots, a flower and ribbon style, a flower and a stripe style, a lace style and a scene style etc, and also in that time an apperance of softness of curved line, delicacy and smoth line, irregular and unrestraint line, motive of tiny and extra ordinarily, little bunch of flowers, and stripe style was a feature. The style of presentation were a presentation of fixed style such effect as lace, and a presentation of realistically style emphasized a massiveness and a cubic effect, and also used a natural color, and the presentation of abstract expressed like imagined anything and fancied. Weaving expressed delicate, brilliant, fantastic, and an atmosphere with elegant. embroidery was expressed in creation with emphasized in reality. Printing was fantastic with exotic in development of chintz due to effection of orient. The based on a salon civilization, the refind beauty of taste of royalty gave a refinded feeling with over affectionate in preference with a softness of curved line, and a motive of tiny and extra ordinarily. The classical beauty of elegant was realistic in being concentrated on building up blance and homony. The natural beauty of romantic was in being devoted the theme with soft and fantastic.
A Case Study on the Development of Designs for Nurses' Uniforms - Focusing on the Uniforms for Staff Nurses and Head Nurses at Korea University Medical Centers -
Lee, Yoon-Jung ; Lee, Yhe-Young ; Seong, Hwa-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 22~37
The main purpose of this research was to provide an example of a scientific and systematic approach to designing nurses' uniforms. Uniforms for the staff nurses and head nurses at Korea University Medical Centers were designed through the following four steps: research and analyses, design direction establishment, design presentation, and final decision. For the research and analyses, a focused group interview with 14 head nurses were conducted before the actual questionnaires were formed and distributed to 200 nurses at the medical centers. The data collected from 182 among 200 subjects were able to be used for the statistical analyses. As a result, the majority of nurses were not satisfied with the present nurse uniforms. They preferred pants to skirts, and straight pants to tapered pants. Blouses or jackets that slightly cover hips with sleeves reaching above the wrists were also preferred. Many respondents wanted uniforms that were practical and easy to manage. The ideal image of nursing uniforms were feminine, lively, active, light, cool, simple, and modern. According to the research and analyses result, design directions were established and uniform designs were presented to head nurses. Uniforms were designed based on symbols of Korea University and Korea University Medical Centers. Colors including white, pink, and grey were selected to represent the ideal image of nursing uniforms designated by the respondents. Fabrics including polyester(95%) and spandex(5%) blends, polyester(48%), rayon(48%), and spandex(4%) blends, and cotton(100%) were used for making garment samples. Final designs were decided by selecting and modifying the designs presented to the head nurses.
A Study of the Aesthetics of Mimesis in 2000s Fashion
Yang, Su-Mi ; Kwon, Mi-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 38~50
Since Homeros in Greece, Mimesis was thought to be an art to imitate the nature, and it means an imitation of the nature classically. Mimetic theories were set to be a kind of art work in the era of Renaissance, and the terminology of mimesis was widely used to replace it with an originality in the 15th century. The purpose of this study is to understand the aesthetics of mimesis expressed in 2000s fashion. For this purpose, I investigated the theories of the mimesis, categorized the definition, then applied those categories for 2000s fashion. Documentary studies were conducted through aesthetics, fashion books and demonstrative studies were processed by analyzing photos from collection fashion magazines and fashion site of internet. In the history of aesthetics, the mimesis could be defined into three categories; the similarity and the representation mimesis, the symbol mimesis and the abstraction mimesis. In fashion, the representation mimesis included a natural and a folk, a period that of 1900s and ancient representation mimesis. The symbol mimesis included psychology and fear symbol mimesis. The abstraction mimesis included hard color, a geometric simplification and distortion mimesis. Analysis on the mimesis expressed in 2000s modern fashion may provide an excellent method for understanding human aesthetic in costume.
A Study of Dap-ho(塔胡) in Joseon Dynasty - Until the Early
Song, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 51~67
The study is about 'Dap-ho', a kind of men's coat in the early, and mid period of Joseon Dynasty. The study examined the kinds, color, and fabric of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty". It also examined the characteristic, and the change of shape through excavated costume, and the period is limited until early 17th century. In "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", there is record of Dap-ho from King Sejong period to Gwang-hae-gun period. After 160 years, it appears again in King Young-jo period, and remains until King Soon-jong period. It was mentioned 168 times, from over 100 cases. There are 26 colors of Dap-ho from "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", and among them, green appears the most. Thin fabric, like Joo [紬], Sa[紗], and Cho[綃] was used often, and there are records of double layered, and cotton padded Dap-ho. The period when Dap-ho appears as excavated costume is almost the same as, "The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty" and disappears after the decease of Dae-ho Kang(1541-1624), and Sun-un Yun(1580~1628). After in this period, Dan-ryung, and Jik-ryung changes into double layered clothes, and Jik-ryung functioned as the underclothes of Dan-ryung, instead of Dap-ho. The excavated costumes of Hwak Kim(1572~1633), and Eung-hae Lee(1547~1626) proofs this. But Dap-ho was called 'Jun-bok', 'Dugree', Que-ja', and 'Dap-ho' until the later period of Joseon Dynasty.
A Study of the Ceremonial Costume of the Crown Prince in the Year 1882 - Focusing on the Myeon-Bok (Royal Robe) -
An, Ae-Young ; Park, Sung-Sil ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 68~84
A state wedding ceremony of kings and crown princes in the Chosun Dynasty was systemically formalized in a book Five National Ceremonies (1474) as one of the five major formal events of the royal auspicious ceremonies(Ga-rae). For a state wedding, Ga-rae Protocol was made by a devision for Ga-rae temporarily established for the occasion. A total number of auspicious ceremony protocols of kings and crown princes amounts to 20 in the span of 279 years. Among the proposals, the wedding of Soon-jong in the Imo Year of 1882 is described most thoroughly. Nap-bin-ui(reception of bride) comprises six rituals which are nap-chae, nap-jing, go-gyi, chaek-bin, chin-young, and dong-ryae. A grand formal costume of the crown prince is granted based on the 'Seven Parts Formal Costume' of the first year of the king Moon-jong in 1450 together with an official costume for crown prince(Gon-myeon-chil-jang) arranged in the third year of the king Young-rak. In the royal palace of the Chosun Dynasty, the granted formal costume of the crown prince is officially recorded as a code and presented in a Gwon-ji-il section of the Formalities of the Five National Ceremonies. The formal costume and its accessory set for the crown prince recorded as a code are described in Sangbang Jeong-ryae as the formal costume of the crown prince section published by the king's request at the high senate commission in the 28th year of the king Young-jo in 1752. The aim of the study is to investigate the formal costume of the crown prince as an auspicious ceremonial costume worn at the wedding in the year of Imo.
A Study of Digital Make-up for the Elderly Using Adobe Photoshop CS4
Moon, Jung-Eun ; Kim, Sook-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 85~97
This study aims at applying Photoshop functions to digital make-up(DM) for aging effect based upon the knowledge of phrenology, comparing the result with that of the real or off-line make-up(OM) and identifying any possible difference between two methods: which contributes to understanding the potential and problems of DM at application level. This study aims at suggesting a method to apply computer graphics(CGs) to special effect make-up for aging effect through a case, contributing to attracting academic concerns and building theoretical frameworks for DM. It used 'Aging Process' in Adobe Photoshop CS4 Extended(CS4E) to change a young girl into a senior lady. In the process of DM, the study applies various tools and methods to making face wrinkled, finds the most effective way among them for each area of face, suggests a method to integrate the ways and shows the result of the method. Compared with OM, DM using CS4E is the less constrained work regarding procedure and time. Specifically, it can save the time tremendously because the reiterative operation of work can be omitted, when the same work is repeated, using 'Action' function which memorizes the history of the work. Once a DM work is produced, since it is durable, reusable and convertible to various images with additional operations, it seems very economical as well as highly promising to market the work through on-line sales. Regarding face features and skin, it reviewed literature in make-up and phrenology while it used Photoshop CS4 Extended tools to demonstrate a case of aging effect by combining and painting pictures of a young lady and a senior citizen.
A Study of the Formative Characteristics of Organic Modernism Design in Fashion
Kim, Yoo-Kyoung ; Yoo, Young-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 98~110
This study has outlined and summarized academic meaning of formative characteristics of Organic Modernism represented by various aspects of design, art, industry and architecture, then has intented to define concept of Organic Modernism Fashion. Eventually, this study is to make a analysis of formative characteristics of Organic Modernism Fashion Design. Based on example of Organic Modernism applied to architectural structure, industrial products and pure paintings, this study has analyzed and researched into formative characteristics of Organic Modernism represented by fashion design. As a consequence of study, its characteristics are defined as below; The first, the beauty of simple formation using delicate curve. The second, the expression of symbolic formation based on surrealism. The third, the expression of continuous 3-dimensional curved surface. And the last characteristic is a providing transformable multi-function. Through those characteristics mentioned above, it may be expected to define a concept of Organic Modernism Fashion Design newly and to set a precedent for providing a basic criteria to classify formative characteristics of Organic Modernism Fashion Design.
The Effects of Country Image, Attitudes toward a Country, and Purchase Emotion on Purchase Intention of Fashion Products with a Korean Images - Focusing on Korean Female Consumers -
Cho, Yun-Jin ; Lee, Yu-Ri ; Kim, Ha-Yeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 111~123
This study investigated the multifaced country image. The casual relationships among the multifaced country image, attitudes toward a country, and purchase emotion and purchase intention of fashion products with Korean images were also investigated. To conduct a quantitative analysis, we collected data from 296 Korean female consumers. SPSS 12.0 and AMOS 5.0 packages were used for statistical analysis. The results of this study as follows. To identify components of country image of Korea, exploratory and confirmatory factor analyses were conducted. This procedure produced five components such as culture, technique/product, ethical values, nationality, and space. Structural equational model was used to analyze the relationships among the country image, attitudes toward a country, purchase emotion, and purchase intention of fashion products with Korean image. The proposed model was verified.
Historical Meaning of PungGongYuBoDoRyak
Chang, In-Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 124~136
This Study is on the Punggongyubodoryake. Punggongyubodoryak was the records and pictures written by Ohgyeongmun(吳景文, Painter) and Gangbonpungeon(岡本豊彦, a Japanese painter, 1773~1745). in 1832. Those records and pictures were about the gifts which Korea's King(宣祖, 1567-1608) sent to Doyotomi Hideyosi(豊臣秀吉, Pungsinsugil) in 1590. Most of the gifts were of the Korean costume, which meant that Korea recognized Doyotomi Hideyosi as the new general of Japan, Tokugawa Shogunate(幕府將軍). The pictures of every Clothing in punggongyubodoryake described forms of every cloth and delineated ornamental patterns and sizes of clothing as closely as actual, they were clothes of the Middle period of Chosun. the author of the study inferred that it would be one of the impotent materials in the history of the Korean traditional costume. Among the clothes, there were several danryeongs(단령, ceremonial coat), okgwan (玉冠 woman headdress with) and paeok(佩玉, pendents with jade stings) and choongdan(中單 ceremonial undercoat) and Sang(裳, ceremonial Skirts for man), gyeontongsuseulran (肩通袖膝襕, chinese coat) was recorded in punggongyubodoryake. they were not a set of clothes for ceremonial costume but a mixture of men's and women's costume, of korean and abroad styles. the author inferred that this phenomenon was actually a good proof that the gifts were sent to Hideyosi only as courtesy, which meant for downgrading the receiver.
A Study of Gisaeng Performance Costume for Folk Dance in Early Modern Korea
Kim, Ji-Hye ; Cho, Woo-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 137~150
Performance costumes are an important element in the stages which set the tones and embody characters in the performances. This study focuses on Gisaeng's costumes in folk dance performances when Korea experienced modernization from Joseon Dynasty, and aims to examine the features of the costumes as well as how the costumes both influenced, and got influenced by, the rapidly changing society. Gisaeng had been legal entertainment performers of the government in the Joseon Dynasty and, despite careful training and talents, had inferior social status in Joseon's social hierarchy system. In the modern society, a new system of Gisaeng emerged and the first public theater opened. The advent of theaters changed performance stages and the ways performances are conducted. This study investigated Gisaeng's performance costumes by the type of folk dances, such as monk dance, palace dance, Salfuri dance, Jangu dance, and Ip dance. The study brings light to three conclusions. First, as folk dances which had been performed by civil dancers were spread to Gisaeng, Gisaeng's costumes absorbed the costumes of civil dancers. Also, royal costumes appeared in folk dance performances. This can be viewed as mixture of royal and folk dance costumes, resulted from interactions between Gisaeng and civil art performers associated with the modernizing society and the weakening of the old hierarchical class system. Second, as performing arts on stages were modernizing, performance costumes changed accordingly. Thirdly, Giseang's costumes in folk dances also adapted the introduction of the western culture, which largely influenced the fashion trends of people in the early modern society in Korea.
A Study on the Works of Philip Treacy II
Kim, Eun-Sil ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 10, 2009, Pages 151~171
The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative relationship between clothes and hat with the works by Philip Treacy, the designer who raised hats to one of important fashion accessories. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. The results suggest that clothes and hat had an organic relationship, and a hat style was changed with formative elements of clothes. Clothes and hats by Philip Treacy were analysed in the aspects of Form, Color, Material, and Decoration. As a result, hats by Philip Treacy were mainly designed by the relationship between whole types without a closed line and showed geometric and formative forms, similarly harmonized with clothes. To highlight hats, the achromatic colors such as black and gray were used. Besides clothes and hats were coordinated by the same colors, but contrary colors were used to express a strong image. Felt or straw materials maily used to express a formative and fixed form were well matched with smooth, opaque, and lusterless materials such as wool. Also when transparent materials were used for hats, lace was used for clothes. A hat made of acrylic was matched with clothes made of glossy vinyl coating materials. Decoration was mainly removed but if used, feather decoration was added to clothes.