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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 59, Issue 10 - Dec 2009
Volume 59, Issue 9 - Nov 2009
Volume 59, Issue 8 - Sep 2009
Volume 59, Issue 7 - Aug 2009
Volume 59, Issue 6 - Jul 2009
Volume 59, Issue 5 - Jun 2009
Volume 59, Issue 4 - May 2009
Volume 59, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 59, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 59, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
Color Selection and Arrangement in Relics of Women's Jeogori in Modern Korea
Park, Chun-Sun ; Cho, Woo-Hyun ; Lee, Ho-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 1~17
This study is to understand the characteristics of Korean Women's Jeogories in modern times on the changes of its color and coloration over the time. The research was that the characteristics of the costumes produced in modern times (
) can be categorized into six periods according to the change of times. 1106 women's Jeogories were researched intensively in order to understand them, the conclusions are following: When the Chi-Square Test is applied to conduct cross analγsis of the said six periods divided on the basis of relevant theories, it is found that there is just partial difference in the hues in1890-1959 while there has been a big change in the hues of all Jeogories since 1960. It also seems that such a sudden change In hues took place till the end of the 1970s but there have been no significant difference and no distinct changes in hues sin[e the 1980s. As for color tones, high luminosity and low chroma hues were mainly used in all periods, but low luminosity and high chroma hues have been frequently used since the 1960s. It indicates that the long-used conventional and traditional colors gave way to various colors which were freely applied according to the tendency of individualism In the selection of colors as well. As for the coloration, one-color arrangement was predominant in white clothes while the combination of main color Y and supplementary rotor R was overwhelming in two-color arrangement. After the 1960s, not just the five major rotors but diverse colors, including bluish green, dark blue, were used, even varied patterns for linings.
The Functions and Meanings of Korea Ancient Gagye
Yim, Lynn ; Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 18~28
Korea Ancient Gagye in Clothing history has the following meanings with ceremonial, social, and aesthetic aspects, related to symbolism of its formality and procedures, flexibility about social aspects, and clothing beauty. First, Gagye must be worn in formal ceremonies with its clothes. Different Gagye in different time and place means the symbolism of its formality and ceremonies. Gagye played a big role as a means to carry out national ceremonies In diplomatic relationship with China. Second, Korea Ancient Gagye had been worn in every class irrespective of social status. Because it could be worn reflecting personal preferences even in old communities. Additionally Gagye had flexibility to reflect the historical aspects and improved various Gagye types reflecting Buddhism and practical science. So Gagye becomes significant sharing the common value with Korea Clothing culture. Third, Korea Ancient Gagye developed aesthetic spirit concerning beauty of Clothing. In the Age of the Three States, Clothing and Gagye types kept balanced and made good harmony. Gagye had gotten little exaggerated and expanded and become changed into loaded hair type.
A Study on Image of Patterns [ 1 ] - With a focus on Development on Image Positioning of Patterns -
Ryu, Hyun-Jung ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 29~41
Perception between real object and recognized subject of human on objective subject is not the same. The reason Is that individual perception of visual design components are transmitted as the image of whole. It is required process of visual perception. Therefore, I developed the vision of seeing image of pattern which is based on Gestalt visual perception theory in clothes. The summary of this study's results is like followings. Extremely antagonistic terms which are specialized by formative characteristics of formative components are clearness and blur of outline/ fixed shape and non-fixed shape/ visuality and tangibility of representation/ simplicity and complexity of structure/ invariability and variability of mobility/ symmetry and asymmetry of arrangements singularity and plurality of group number. The expression of motive shows that clearness, fixed shape, visuality and simplicity pursuit Determination image, and blur, non-fixed shape, tangibility and complexity pursuit Ambiguity image. The arrangements of motive shows that invariability, symmetry and singularity pursuit Order image, and variability asymmetry and plurality pursuit Disorder image. Therefore, the standard of the coordinator of Pattern image positioning is established as Determination and Ambiguity of motive are X-axis, and Order and Disorder of pattern are Y-axis. As the frame of Pattern image positioning, four separated dimensions have made.
An Empirical Study on the Aesthetic Consciousness and the Aesthetic Enjoyment of Fashion as an Art
Yun, Ji-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 42~58
This study researches previous aesthetic categories and organizes new one which is applied to fashion design. With the frame of the new aesthetic category, a survey about aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment are conducted. Also, this study discusses about the variety of the aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic enjoyment which are arisen from peculiarity of fashion and the necessity of the systemized criticizing theory. Through the survey of aesthetic consciousness about fashion designer's clothes, there are possibilities of varieties in visions and critics about fashion works. But it is necessary to read in right way about kunstwollen and symbolic meaning of designer. In order to read aesthetic consciousness inside of a fashion designer's works properly, the interpretation method which follows in systematized phases such as iconology and semiology is necessary. Contemplation for the 'clothes' which is a part of an art Is not just simply see the object and judge subjectively but examine the factors which have influenced to the formation, kunstwollen, and symbolic meaning. Also, the process and the attitude which enjoy the aesthetic value have to be analyzed and criticized which based on systemized interpretation frame. The 'Clothes' is one artistic object which expresses kunstwollen of fashion designer and he or she puts in a sentiment and an ideology into the clothes and which reflects the present society and effects to the descendant.
A Longitudinal Study of Color Changes of Hanbok in Modern Times
Kim, Chan-Ju ; Hong, Na-Young ; Yu, Hae-Kyung ; Lee, Ju-Hyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 59~69
This study aims to identify how Korean women's traditional costume, Hanbok, has changed according to the times in terms of color coordination of Jeogori and Chima. Photos had been taken at wedding places and streets at 5 major cities(Seoul, Pusan, Kwangju, Daejon, Jeju) at two weekends of each season in 1999, 2001, and 2003. Total 1617 photos were used as final data. Data were analyzed by hue coordination and value level. Hue coordination exist in one-color and two-color coordination. In one-color coordination, red color(R & RP) was the most frequently used and blue green(BG) was the next, and the least was blue purple(BP) for each year. In value scale, high level was the most frequent and followed by middle level and low level. Pink was the most preferred color for one-color coordination. In two-color coordination, white and blue were widely used for Jeogori and red and blue far chima for each year, which seemed to be the basic color coordination for Jeogori and Chima. While there was a certain basic color coordination types across year, but a few new color coordination appeared each year and maintained as popular color coordination for one or two year.
An Analysis of the Characteristics of Fashion Design as Intelligent Wear
Jun, Hye-Jung ; Ha, Ji-Soo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 70~86
Today, digital technology is extending its influence to fashion design, which is closely related to people's lifestyle. In order for people to access information all the time, every place, people have to wear these devices all the time, every place. Intelligent wear allows people to communicate with their own body, other persons or surrounding real-time. The purposes of this study are to define 'Intelligent wear' by looking through the similar terms of intelligent wear on related fields, to analyze characteristics of intelligent wear and to provide not only theoretical data but also, practical data far product development on both functional and aesthetic sides. In this study, usefulness provided by intelligent wear were identified in the concept of instrumental & expressive function. For the aim of the study, literature and case study were considered at the same time. The conclusions are as the following. The characteristics of intelligent materials were found to be information, intelligence and protection, the characteristics of intelligent manufacture were combination and virtual reality. And The characteristics of intelligent products were multi-function, transformation, camouflage. Integration of operability function extends human ability and the area of human activity, entertainment, and communication, and provides convenience. Consequently, development of intelligent wear should promote through not only computer engineering but also, connection to other fields. Most of all, there is a need for active research in clothing design and the fashion design since intelligent wear is after all, clothing.
Image Analysis of Black Female Fashion Models
Rhew, Soo-Hyeon ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 87~100
This study examines black images as 'the other' in history and aims to analyze images of black female fashion models which have been changed in modern society, particularly in
century post-modern world. Black images, established historically as illustrated on the paintings in
century, were disseminated in
century throughout the world especially by way of TV and movies as several typical images such as 'Coon' the clown as the object of entertainment, 'Buck' wild and resistant black rascal, and 'Mammy' obedient and fat black woman servant. The result of image analysis of black female fashion models, can be summarized as following five images. The first is the image of 'powerful'. Black female models frequently represent healthy image which reflects black people's excellence in sports and also the traditional Image of black skin color as strength. The second is the image of 'sexy'. They are adored as having perfect ideal body shape. They show off their sex appeal with their body. The third image is 'multicultural'. Black models represent cultures besides the western. The fourth is the image of 'fantastic'. In contrast to the real, resonable things, black female models represent wild, fancy, ghost things. The fifth is the image of 'racial discrimination' By arranging them in contrast to whites, a metaphoric image of racial discrimination can be displayed. The result shows that tome of racial images still remain on the other way.
A Study of the Development of Cultural Products that Utilize the Traditional Saekdong Image
Lee, Mi-Seok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 101~110
This is a study regarding the development of cultural products with applied traditional Saekdong-image. The objective of this study is to develop unique cultural products which combine traditional korean images with modern feel by utilizing traditional Saekdong-image. Saekdong has been an object of deep attachment and regarded as a tool for expressing korean images from ancient times to the present. Chosun dynasty shows a wonderful growth of fashion not only in dress but also in such accessories as patchwork wrapping-cloth and Saekdong, which imply a lot on formation or color arrangement. Approximately 24 pieces of cultural products that can be used in daily life were created using Saekdong, including traffic or credit card cases, name card cases, pouches, coin purses, bags, Vest, teapot wrapping-cloth, brooch. After design plans were made for each works, natural dyes were used to dye(dip dyeing) the fabrics(cotton, silk, linen) by theme. In addition, the increased quality of the products will be a competitive edge in the world market where products compete with no national bounds.
Distinctive and Common Characteristics of Fashion Works, as Influenced by National.Cultural Contexts - Focusing on the Works of Vivienne Westwood, Issey Miyake and Hussein Chalayan -
Yun, Ji-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 111~127
The purpose of this study is to understand the importance of exterior influential factors and kunstwollen(artistic will) of fashion designer. In order to investigate the differences which based on periodic backgrounds, social influences, cultural actualities and kunstwollen, Vivienne Westwood, Issey Miyake and Hussein Chalayan who have different social and cultural contexts are selected. Also through this research, people would understand the clothes has the values as the art works which have philosophy of creator and recognize the importance of fashion as an intermediation for comprehension of history, society and culture. Vivienne Westwood presents her honor to British history and culture in the way of her unique interpretation. Also she expresses the authority and the pride of woman who lives in the present age. Issey Miyake accomplishes the harmony of human body and soul. He attains the most perfect beauty through incomplete beauty of cloth. Hussein Chalayan produces his fashion works as a form of concept which is keep asking question about existence of human being. Fashion is the work of art which Is based on the relationship between clothes, human body and spirit. The fashion designer makes human life has value through his or her creations and tries to communicate with the world.
Diffusion and Imitation of American Trendy Casual Style in Korea - Focusing on the Styles of American Celebrities-
Kim, Chan-Ju ; Ro, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 128~142
American trendy casual style can be characterized as fitted to body and rendering sexy and fashionable images and now very popular in Korea. This paper aims to identify how American trendy casual styles have been introduced and diffused among Korean young people and also compare the similarities and differences between American and Korean styles. American trendy casual style was introduced and diffused through 4 channels: people who have living experiences in America, media exposure by American films, TV dramas and fashion magazines, on-line network using internet cafe, club and blog, use of on-line shopping mall speciallized for purchasing American apparel brands. Some of American celebrities became fashion ikons and played critical roles in diffusing American trendy styles. Photos of those American celebrities and street fashion of Korean young women were collected through internet search from Sep. 2006 to Aug. 2007. 6 styles including leggings, mini skirt, short dress, skim jeans, pants with long boots, big bag and long necklace were selected as representing American trendy casual styles. Silhouettes and overall styling were very similar in all 6 items. But Differences were found in terms of rotor, amount of details, item coordination, matching shoes and overall images.
Color Characteristics of the Costumes of the Beijing Opera
Kim, Ji-Eon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 143~153
The purpose of this study is to provide color information in order to planning and merchandising in china fashion through the color of Beijing opera. In objective study, we collect total 302 Beijing opera images. The collecting method of source data is to extract digital color data by color picker. We transform RGB color data to H V/C, CIE L*a*b and analyze the attributes of color and tone, three-dimensional analysis. The results of this study are as follows : 1. The color distrbution of Beijing opera is R(26.9%)>YR(18.2%)>PB(11.6%)>Y(9.6%). Traditional preference color, red is most popular color as 26.7%:, the practice of vivid tone red is numerous. 2. The tone distribution of Beijing opera costume is P(16%)>It(13.9%)>d(11%)>5(9.6%)>4kg (8.2%)>b(7.1%:). The value o# Beijing opera costume distribute medium and medium-high and the chroma of those distributes low. 3. High chroma yellow is restrictive color as the symbol of emperor in china but medium-low chroma yellow is very frequently used. 4. Blue is often used in china costume. Especially in Beijing opera costume blue is symbol of bravery, dignity, cruel character 5. White in Beijing opera costume is much used for symbol of righteous loyalist. Black is less used than white in Beijing opera costume and black is authority color for symbol of the prime minister.
A Study on Voluptuous Beauty of Females Found in Music Videos by Popular Music Genre
Seo, Eun-Hee ; Choi, Jeong-Wook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 2, 2009, Pages 154~168
This study aims on providing a design technique that expresses aesthetical elements by arranging the analysis of sensual beauty into detailed elements of design from music video outfits by genre of pop music, by observing music videos of female vocalists chosen from each genre of pop music focusing on their fashion. The results of this study are the following. 1. In the genre rock, the sensual beauty of female were expressed with a boyish and neutral style using texture such as leather or denim, and such style had the effect of emphasizing their feminine side even more. 2. In the genre dance music, exposure is extensive compared to other genre using sexy or lingerie look, and I found an ambivalent style of feminism with clothes in the form of drapery using textures such as chiffon and silk, and femme fatale style with textures adhering to the body such as leggings, leotard, and bodysuit. 3. In the genre of rap and hip-hop, clothes from casual and costume-play style were found using training jersey, t-shirt, and denim pants, and emphasized the sensual beauty of women by showing a silhouette with short length and fitting style using shiny textures. 4. In the genre of R&B, there were diverse outfits that suits the characteristics of characters appearing in the stories, or the situation of the story since there are many dramatic representation in the form of story Especially in case of female characters, the feminine side was emphasized staging a feminine style by wearing dresses with the texture of chiffon and silk. Exposure was restrained compared to other genre.