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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 59, Issue 10 - Dec 2009
Volume 59, Issue 9 - Nov 2009
Volume 59, Issue 8 - Sep 2009
Volume 59, Issue 7 - Aug 2009
Volume 59, Issue 6 - Jul 2009
Volume 59, Issue 5 - Jun 2009
Volume 59, Issue 4 - May 2009
Volume 59, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 59, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 59, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
A Study of Design Using National Flags in Modern Fashion
Kim, Sun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 1~13
The purpose of this study is to discuss the modern fashion design that incorporates national flags, by each country, methods of their expressions and distinct characteristics. Moreover, it intends to contribute in creating the image of Korea and our own unique fashion identity through creative designs that coincides with the modern trend by adopting Taegeukgi. The results of this study can be summarized as follows: The American flag and the British Union Jack were molt widely used and even though it was less frequent, flags of the France, Korea, Israel, Germany as well as Argentina have been featured in modern fashion. The expression methods also varied and it demonstrated the unlimited options as to how a flag can be presented. Some used the traditional flag as is. Some only used a portion of a flag or its colors as a motive or sometimes the flags were completely redesigned. There are distinctive characteristics when flags are incorporated into fashion. First, the shapes or colors of the flags were used to emphasize the image of a country in rather simple silhouette without many details. Second, through altered shapes, shades, colors or rearrangement, the country's image is presented in more subtle, indirect manner. Third, a flag is a mere element of a formation with various changes to its shape or color, and it no longer holds the traditional significance of a flag. It may also represent the playful or ironic image by combining with other items or execution techniques.
Semiotic Interpretation of Christian Dior's Fashion Makeup - Focusing on Morris' theories -
Kim, Hyun-Mi ; Jang, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 14~26
This study is to investigate makeup shown in fashion collections of Christian Dior based on semiotical theory of Morris. Morris's theory developed from semiotics of Peirce composed of syntactics, semantics and pragmatics. Therefore, in the case of analysis of fashion makeup, syntactics investigates signs of forms, colors, textures and materials of makeup, semantics finds out meanings of the signs of syntactics and pragmatics analyzes aesthetic characteristics which the signs of syntactics and the meanings of semantics symbolize. Fashion makeup in Christian Dior Collections were expressed experimentalism sign, multi-culture sign and popularity sign. Experimentalism signs were expressed with graphic makeup and cyber techno makeup and multi-culture signs were done with ethnic make up and retro makeup. In addition, goth make up and hitch makeup showed popularity signs. This study found that the three types of signs were considered to reflect aesthetics of the contemporary fashion. Also, this study could conclude that fashion makeup was able to be interpreted by Morris' semiotics.
Socio-cultural Interpretation of Fast Fashion Phenomenon
Ro, Ju-Hyun ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 27~41
Interpreting the phenomenon of Fast fashion that is prevalent these days, this research is meaningful in that it prepares the frame which suggests the vision to read the trend of 2000s and analyzes the property of phenomenon of Fast Fashion in the connection with society and culture. The so[io-cultural property can be largely characterized by consumption orientation, change orientation, efficiency, moment and multiculturism. Analyzing the phenomenon of fast fashion that emerged after 2000 on the basis of such sociocultural background, it is largely classified into imitation, fashionability, disposability, portability, transformation and convergence. Due to the hi-polarization of consumption, people tend to select imitated goods, and people accustomed to speed get interested in the fashionability of all Phenomena. Further, society that is transient and changing rapidly makes the habit of purchasing in disposability. The property of nomad society encourages to keep the habit of portability. Such change-oriented society and rapidly changing life pattern make them adapt in diverse transformation modes of Fast Fashion. Further, multi-cultural world integrates enterprises through combination of all cultures and the convergence of all factors.
The Fact-Finding Survey and Analysis for the Promotion of Korean Traditional Costume Industry
Cho, Woo-Hyun ; Park, Hyun-Jung ; Kim, Mun-Young ; Kim, Yong-Moon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 42~54
The purpose of the study was to grasp problems through a basic survey of actual conditions of the Korean traditional costume industry and to grope a plan to settle the problems. The results were as follows. Operating Status: Rates of the companies' establishment were reduced in 2000s and their sales were also reduced. Status of Goods Development: Korean traditional costume manufacturers and Korean traditional costume textile fabric companies had the highest rate in non-trademark production. Korean traditional costume textile fabric companies and Korean traditional costume rental companies had high rate in self-design. However, Korean traditional costume manufacturers used textile companies' catalogue with the highest rate. Status of Demand and Supply in Human Resources: In human resources needing most, Korean traditional costume manufacturers were tailors, Korean traditional costume textile fBbric companies were salespersons and Korean traditional costume rental companies were designers. Status of Management and Marketing: Causes of difficulties in management were the market slump and the spreading of products made in China. They had a direct publicity through people around mainly. Therefore, it was urgently necessary to introduce special marketing methods. In an investment plan within three years in the future, about 70% did not have an investment plan. Opinions for Promotion of Korean traditional costume: In the government's support policy they wanted, construction of social atmosphere for Korean traditional costume-wearing and Korean traditional costume related educational support had the highest rate. Most of the companies answered that specialized Korean traditional costume agencies were necessary.
Body Image and Cosmetic Image Based on Women's Sex Role Identity
Kim, Yong-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 55~56
The purpose of this study was to analyse body and cosmetic image according to women's sex role identity. The subjects of this study were 433 women over 20 years old. Self-administered questionnaires were used for data collection. SPSS(Ver. 15.0) was used for mean, median, frequency, percentages, factor analysis, and one-way ANOVA. The results of this study were as followed; First, women were clustered into 4 groups according to their sex role identity. 36.5% was classified as an androgynous group, 32.4% was a undifferentiated group, 16.1% was a masculine group, and 15.0% was a feminine group. Second, factors of women's body image were interest in appearance, interest in weight, and charming of appearance. Factors of cosmetic image were natural & sociable, urban & intellect, passionate, romantic, prestige & sophisticate, fashionable & splender, active, feminine, and formal. Third, Androgynous group showed much interests in appearance and charming of appearance, but undifferentiated group had low interests. Androgynous group pursued natural & sociable, urban & intellect, passionate, romantic, prestige & sophisticate, fashionable & splendor, active, feminine, and formal images most when they applied make-ups. Masculine group pursued urban & intellect and active images much and femme group pursued natural & sociable, feminine, and formal images much. However undifferentiated group pursued all factors of cosmetic images less. Forth, androgynous group applied more kinds of cosmetics, but undifferentiated group applied less.
Establishment of Dimension System for Obese School Age Children - Focusing on 3-5 Grade Elementary School Boys in Seoul Metropolitan City -
Kim, Min-Jung ; Park, Sun-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 67~81
Body shape of a child in elementary school is distinguished by physical differences in the form of low weight, normal weight and obesity, which are influenced by various periodic environments. In particular, there are hardly any patterns for obese children in elementary school to choose. To this end, the purpose of this study is to supplement the problems with the production lines of the companies for children's patterns as well as an analysis on the physical characteristics of obese children and to suggest the patterns appropriate to obese children. This study employed obese children from the 3rd- to 5th-grade elementary school students whose number has been rapidly increasing and conducted a questionnaire regarding the draft of the patterns for obese children on their mothers and the makers of children's clothing. Based on the results, the study compared and analyzed ordinary children's patterns to the patterns in question by suggesting a dimension system for Korean obese children. The results are as follows. The obesity rate of the children in elementary school has been grown in significant numbers every year, whereas obese children's sense of self-identity and degree of satisfaction with their patterns appeared to be much lower than other ordinary children in the peer group; also, the satisfaction level their mothers with their children's patterns appeared to be low. In order to verify the degree of the children's satisfaction with their patterns, the study suggested a dimension system for the obese children and displayed appropriateness by comparing the children patterns from ordinary companies and the patterns in question.
A Study of the Fabrics Used for the Official Hats in Baekje Dynasty
Park, Yoon-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 82~95
The kind and the use of the fabrics for crown manufacture in the Baekje period has been studied by characterizing the imprinted fabrics on the crowns and the diadem ornaments from the old tomb. The contact region with the skin inside of the crown and the region between the bark of white birch and the gilt bronze openwork plates contained fabrics. The fabrics used in the gilt-bronze crown were all plain weave silk except that of Yongwonri tomb where loosely woven thin tabby was used. There have been 4-types of iron framed diadem of the Baekje, which comprise the inverted triangle-shaped diadem only with iron frame, the diadem with gold plate ornament in the iron frame, the diadem decorated with mica plate and gold plate, and the diadem with silver ornament in the iron frame. The fabrics used in the triangle shaped iron frame diadem include plain weave silk, irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, complex silk gauze, twill weave on plain ground, and warp-faced compound weave. The iron frames were wrapped with the fabrics from one layer up to three layers, and the iron diadem was covered with one later of loosely woven textile such as irregular plain woven silk, thin tabby, and complex silk gauze. But in case of decorating the iron diadem with gold Plate ornaments, multiple layers of fabric were used to sustain the weight of the ornaments. The fabrics in the iron diadem frame were sewed with running stitch, overedge stitch or hemming stitch, diagonal hemming stitch, half back stitch), and overcast stitch.
A Study of the Royal Lady's Dress in Late Joseon Dynasty According to the King's Wedding Process
Kim, Soh-Hyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 96~108
This study is made on the royal lady's dress In late Joseon dynasty according to the King Heon-jong and Lady Kyung-bin's Wedding Diary in the year of Jung-mi(1847) and summarised as follows: Girls' full dress was a set of a red skirt, a violet undo. jacket, and a light yellow jacket and a green Gyeon-ma-gi(a kind of top jacket) with he. hair Saeng-meo-ri hanging Do-tu-rak-daeng-gi(a kind of hair ribbon). At the big ceremony, girls wore a green Dang-ui instead of Gyeon-ma-gi. A girl picked up as a royal concubine wore a green Won-sam, which was decorated with gilt letters meaning longevity, patched emblems of gilt letter meaning longevity on the breast and on the back, belted with Bong-dae(a red sash with gilt phoenexes), like a princess's full dress. At the Kyung-bin's installation of Crown Princess and her first greeting ceremony with royal elders, she wore a green Won-sam as a formal dress, which had an embroidered emblem of phoenix, the belt with crystal ornaments, Pae-ok(佩玉), Kyu(圭) of blue jade, Shou(綬) with an phoenix. At a Dong-wrae-yun(drinking ceremony after bride and bridegroom's bowing to each other), she wore the embroidered red Jang-sam as a formal dress. Kyung-bin wore a purple Won-sam with Bong-dae as a full dress for a royal feast. According to the occasions, the same dress was differentiated with ornaments and rotors. Ji-keum-bal was an attire for ordinary ceremony. The attire was equipped with a woven gold green Dang-ui with an emblem of phoenix, a blue gilt underskirt and a red gilt overskirt. No-ui was worn as outdoor clothes. Jang-sam was worn by various classes, so it was differentiated with materials and names according to her class.
The Characteristics of Colors Found in the Gyubang Culture of Joseon Dynasty
Kim, Eun-Kyoung ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 109~130
This study examines the rotor characteristics of Guybang culture (women's living in Joseon) relics which the life images and mental world of women in Joseon if expressed to prepare rotor data to be utilized in modern design and information for color identity establishment of Korean women culture. The result of this study is as following: 1. From 176 pieces of relic photos, total of 1380 color chips were extracted. For color analysis, 1368 units (99.1%) of color data excluding achromatic 12 units (0.9%) among 1380 units of colors were used. With the standard of 10 color wheel of Munsell Color System, the result of studying distributions according to frequency, red was the highest by 25.9%, yellow was 21.4% in women's goods in Joseon period which the ratio of red and yellow was 473%. Other than that, GY 14.6%, YR 11.3% and RP 11.1% followed next which is studied that the warm colors that conveys enjoyable and glamorous feelings composed 84.3%; 2. As a result of tone analysis, high value low chroma ltg color showed highest distribution of 20% and d was 12.2%, b was 11.7% and sf was 8.8%. Generally, it showed high frequency in high value cocors such as ltg, sf and b of 40.5%t and in low chroma (ltg) and medium chroma (d, sf) of 41% and colors in bright and calm image was used the most. 3. As a result of analyzing relationship between hue & tone, the ltg tone of Y close to white in traditional color sensibility showed the highest frequency of 9.6% and ltg tone of GY(6.4%), b tone of RP(6.1%), and v(5.4%), b(5.4%), dp(5.3%) of R followed next. 4. As a result of analyzing the characteristics of coloring, it showed that in case of coloring contrasting hues, it is adjusted similar tones and in case of coloring less contrasting hue, the difference in tone is adjusted to be rather large to make harmonized coloring. Moreover, in case of coloring similar hues, the ratio of using same tone and similar tone was large which the coloring of calm image and dynamic image is all used.
in Joseon Dynastry -Focused on SongHyosang(1430-1490), SongHeejong(the late 1500s) tombs -
Kweon, Jun-Hee ; Kweon, Young-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 131~144
This study is about single-layered
excavated from SongHyosang(宋效商, 1430-1490, SHS hereafter), SongHeeJong(宋喜從, the late 1500s, SHJ hereafter) tombs. There are 7 single-layered
for men. We focus on comparison of their design and sowing method. 1. Design: Investigating collar,
from SHS have MokpanGit and
from SHJ have KalGit. KalGit has been seen from SHJ to 17th, 18th and 19th centuries. After the late 1500s, there is no MokpanGit single-laTered
for men. Side panel under arm has various shapes(triangle, trapezoid, triangle+trapezoid) in 15th century. After the late 1500s, It changes into no side panel. Two
with no side panel from SHJ reveals that the late 1500s is a period of transition. 2. Sewing method: First, researching lengthwise grainline of the fly, the left fly has lengthwise grainline outside In four, inside in three. The right fly has lengthwise grainline outside in just one, the others have lengthwise grainline inside. Compared with today's way, there is a great difference, but in those times there isn't an established rule. This is true of side panel under arm. The sewing method are backstitch, running stitch, and hemming. Researching the construction method of seam, in putting two selvages together, open seam and plain seam are used. In putting selvage and bias, bias and bias together, flat felled seam and french seam are used. This study shows that single-layered
far men from 15C. to 16C. has changes of design such as collar(Git) and side panel undo. arm. But there is little change in sewing method.
A Suggestion for the Development of Cultural Products through the Analysis of the Significance Patchwork Wapping Colthes (Jogakbo)
Kim, Yeo-Kyung ; Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 145~156
This study proposes the product development through an organic link with multi-faceted analysis on the archetype of traditional costumes culture. In order to find ways to develop cultural products, Jogakbo was selected, and the research result is as following. 1. Analysis on the types of Jogakbo products sold in the market shows that there are not only living, stationary, and fashion items, but also DIY packages. In terms of materials used, most of these Jogakbo products were made of fabric or mixture of different materials. These products displayed similar tendency by reflecting formative characteristics of Jogakbo. 2. This study analyzed the color, surface composition, material, manufacturing, and usage of Jogakbo. The rotor of Jogakbo is mostly composed of mono tone colors or Obangsac(five-element colors). The mono tone colors carries environmentally friendly meaning as it is using the natural color and Obangsac means harmony. Moreover, the surface composition of Jogakbo represents the expansion through connection and its material is also meaningful in that it is recycling. Manufacturing of Jogakbo has educational significance, fortune-wishing characteristics, decorative function, it also gives a gratification of handcraft. The usage of Jogakbo is a multi-(unctional article whose form is determined by an item that is held inside it. 3. Through the analysis on Jogakbo, this study presents the baby wear in relation to the ere-friendliness of colors, brooch sets using the surface composition, dresses using recycling fabric, children's educational instruments with educational significance, as well as multi-functional packages in regards to usage of Jogakbo
A Study of the Designing and Producing of Efficient Stage Costume Using Rented Costume - Focusing on the Western Clothes used in the Performance "Lee Jin" -
Kim, Young-Sam ; Woo, Bo-Kyung ; Han, Na-Ra ; Yin, Xiang-Lan ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 3, 2009, Pages 157~165
This study intends to discuss the efficient stage costume design that uses costume-rentals and production method as a realistic alternative for production of stage costume of low budget performance. Directly participating in the costume design and production of the performance
, this researcher applied the methodology of corroborative study on the basis of production process and results by referring to the papers and literature published by academic society for the theory necessary for study. Centering around the western costume in the stage costumes of
, the scope of study was the costume of Paris, France prevalent at the end of the 19th century which is epochal background of performance. In spite of its merit of reducing production charge and production in the low budget performance, costume-rentals is subject to the lack of considering unitγ with other visual factors and limit in reflecting the creativity of costume designer. The following actions shall be taken to solve such problem. First, it is essential to set production direction and plan that meets budget and work concept. Second, it is required to highlight the characteristic factor of the age which is the background of work so as to grant the sense of age and to produce the visual unity of costume by supplementing the costume composition. Third, it is necessary to make large effect with low lost by using costume articles that can express the characteristics of the age. Fourth, it is required to efficiently reflect the transformation of design by minimizing the damage of costume through research on the sewing method and materials as well as creative idea. In this way, the efficient stage costume could be realized in the performance with low budget by approaching costume-rentals in the viewpoint of costume design, transforming it in accordance with work concept and adding the visual factors.