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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 59, Issue 10 - Dec 2009
Volume 59, Issue 9 - Nov 2009
Volume 59, Issue 8 - Sep 2009
Volume 59, Issue 7 - Aug 2009
Volume 59, Issue 6 - Jul 2009
Volume 59, Issue 5 - Jun 2009
Volume 59, Issue 4 - May 2009
Volume 59, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 59, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 59, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
Types and Characteristics of Women's Embroidered Handicrafts of the Joseon Dynasty
Kwon, Su-Yeon ; Jang, Hyun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 1~13
The purpose of this study is to examine the types of and figurative characteristics of in women's embroidered handicrafts of Korea. It also aims to revive Korean traditional beauty, to examine the applicability of Korean traditional design that has both modern beauty and practicality, and to develop Korean women's embroidered handicrafts. The types of women's embroidered of Korea include Jumoni (pouches), Bojagi (wrapping cloths), and other accessories made by sewing. Jumoni consisting of 55.51% of them was the most frequently used handicraft followed by Bojagi (8.66%), and other accessories (35.83%). In terms of the patterns used, animal pattern and plant pattern were used the most frequently. In addition, complex patterns using two or three patterns together(70.49) were more frequent than singular patterns (29.53%). Pictorial type of pattern arrangement (58.24%) was used the most frequently and dense type (39.76%) and sparse type (2.00%) were followed. In terms of the materials on which embroidery was used, Dahn (85.82%) was used the most frequently followed by wool (5.67%), cotton (4.26%), silk (3.55%), and Sa (0.70%). Various techniques of stitches were used such as outline stitch (40.56%), satin and running stitch (29.32%), French nut stitch (28.11%), long and short stitch (21.28%), double leaf stitch (20.88%), and so on. Among them, satin stitch (63.05%) was the most popular type of stitch techniques. Strings (23.56%), maedeup (Korean traditional knots, 8.62%), or tassels (9.77%) were also attached for the purpose of both practicality and of decoration. There were some cases that added cloissone or red-pepper shaped decorations.
A Study on Make-up as a Component of Ethnic Image Fashion - Focusing on Japan and Africa -
Seo, Jung-Yun ; Lee, Hyo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 14~25
This Study is purposed to comparative analysis in the case of balanced with Ethnic image fashion and the event of an unbalanced between fashion and make-up and to reconfigure on the make-up of the features on the Ethnic image Fashion in the 21st century. The result of this study is as follows. First, in the case of Japanese ethnic image make-up, to emphasize applied forms and formative characterization, they generally use circles and horizontal lines. Also the harmony between Japanese image make-up and primary colors like white and red strengthen ethnic images better. In the event of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, fashion occurs dynamically in Africa and linearly in China. Sexy & natural image make-up also widely appear in the modern view. Second, in the case of African ethnic make-up balanced with African image fashion, the form is repeatedly dotted, widely water-colored, and mattedly textured using ash make-up colors such as white, red, gold, gray and so forth. African image make-up strongly expresses primitive natural beauty adding primal tribal painting art and mask forms. In case of an unbalance between fashion and image make-up, no distinctive ethnic image make-up appears. To emphasize natural patterns as well as splendid & decorative fashion, they try not to use primary colors, but instead focus on natural make-up and monotone colored point make-up, sexy make-up, avant-garde make-up, goth make-up, romantic make-up, glossy make-up.
A Study on the Flag Sticked in a Military Cap
Kang, Soon-Che ; Jeon, Hyun-Sil ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 26~40
The custom of the flag sticked in a military cap involves the symbolic mark. That is, it makes the procession of an army clear and makes the convenience of activity possible. This custom was uniquely practiced at several countries. At Il dynasty(
), Timurid dynasty(
), Mughal dynasty(
) was succeeded this custom by based on blood relationship for
century on the diachronic viewpoint. And these countries have cultural correlation by regional paradigm, namely Islamic cultural area. Meanwhile, this custom of Ming dynasty and joseon dynasty appeared in
century as official system. Expecially, one of joseon dynasty maintained for a short time than other countries because of jangpyo[章標] system which was more efficient than the sticked flag. On the synchronic viewpoint, this custom was the common and necessary status quo for the efficient expansion of territory and military management.
Study of the Characteristics of Dot Pattern Designs in Modern Fashion
Kim, Sun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 41~53
This study analyzed expression types of dot patterns and derived out inherent characteristics to provide fundamental resources for advancement of high value added creative designs. As a result of the study, Firstly, the circular motive was used to form silhouettes or as a symbol of a decoration. Secondly, a simple form and color dot pattern was used to create one side, or a circular shaped accessory was used to be recognized as a construction line or a decoration line. Thirdly, textile printing is mainly used but handicraft and decorative images were used to add vitality through piece technique, embroidery, collage, cut-out, patch work, etc. Fourthly, different circular motives were integrated, partitioned and duplicated for abstract geometrical images. Fifthly, variations were added by mixing different dot patterns that are arranged regularly and irregularly in different sizes and gaps creating compounded designs with handicraft touches, different angles or on top of each other. Sixthly, hybrid images were created with rearrangement of dot patterns and by adding floral shapes, stripes or other abstract and geometrical shapes. Such various and creative attempts construct new formative beauty in fashion design and I believe that it can establish the development of unique images that satisfies the taste of today's consumers.
Factors of Attitude and Purchase Intention toward Fashion Cultural Products with a Korean Image - Comparison of Korean and American Consumers -
Cho, Yoon-Kyung ; Lee, Yu-Ri ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 54~66
An empirical study was conducted on fashion cultural products with Korean image, targeting Korean and American consumers. Its purpose was to identify Korean and English consumers' attitude and purchase intention and to compare difference of its influence factor toward fashion cultural products of which design sources were derived from the Korean culture. The quantitative research using on-line questionnaires was targeted at American and Korean consumers. A total of 400 responses were used in the analysis. Results of data analyses using SPSS 13.0, are as following. First, for American consumers, uniqueness-seeking had a positive effect on attitude toward of cultural product with Korean image, followed by service of salespersons, change-seeking, and appearance of salespersons. For Korean consumers, easy accessibility was significantly related to attitude. Second, for American consumers, uniqueness-seeking and appearance of salespersons had a significant influence on the purchase intention of the cultural product with Korean image. For Korean consumers, no attributes were related to purchase intention. This research about fashion cultural products that will compete in the global market presents exploratory information targeting domestic and foreign consumers and will contribute to the strategic aspect of newly growing high-added-value industries.
A Study on Necktie Image of Striped Pattern according to Area-Ratio Variation of Chromatic and Achromatic Colors
Sung, Nam-Suk ; Choi, Su-Koung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 67~81
This study aims to characterize the effect of different combinations of chromatic-achromatic colors and 1:2:3 area-ratio variation of stripe necktie, and gender on the image of male wearer. The experimental materials developed for this study are a set of stimuli and response scales. The stimuli consist of 84 color pictures manipulated with every combination of 12 different colors and 7 different area-ratio. The 7-point scale designed for visual evaluation of image formation included 26 bipolar adjectives. The subjects were 2016 undergraduate students in Gyeongnam, Seoul, Busan, and Daegu areas. The results of this study were as follows. The analyses of images of male wearer in terms of combinations of chromatic-achromatic colors and I :2:3 area-ratio variation of oblique stripe necktie reveal that the concerned factors are of five characteristic dimensions of youth-activity, ability, attractiveness, appeal, and warmness. In addition, it has been found that individual images of male wearer are affected by observer's gender as well as combinations of chromatic-achromatic colors and 1:2:3 area-ratio variation of stripe neckties and that those images vary with every combination of each factor. The study results are highly expected to be used as useful sources in developing necktie designs.
The Interchange in Drawing Styles between Cartoon and Fashion illustration
Sung, Kwang-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 82~97
In this study, it can be identified that drawing style of cartoon and fashion illustration are mutually linked and interchanged. The common background of drawing style between cartoon and fashion illustration, is as follows; 1. A means of image communication through mass communication 2. Similarities as visual signs 3. The borderless of painting, illustration and cartoon. 4. Usage of common drawing expressions such as deformation, distortion, exaggeration, metaphor, metonymy. Drawing style interchanging between cartoon and fashion illustration, is as follows; 1. Similar to figure and face are contemporary style, similar figure, Anime style and humourous style. 2. Similar to the way of express is focusing on the line, simplification, mixed computer graphics with hand drawing, artistic expression, the way of multimedia.
Make-up Design that Incorporates the Features of Traditional Korean Masks - Focusing on the Road Performance 'Day like Today' -
Lee, Joung-Min ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 98~110
Performance art is an integrated genre of different art areas, and make-up is a visual art area to give lively effects to the performance art, which makes actors and actresses changed into the characters of plays. It can be said to be a kind of deliverer of idea to help effectively understand the contents of the performance. When we are in the world abundant in various cultures and innumerable styles of expression of different countries, we should rediscover the value of the beauty of our traditional masks that have represented the emotion and thought of Han nation, which we can find in play culture of our ancestors that has kept our ancestors' value system. That's the way we can get continuous life force and competitive power of our traditional culture. The Korean traditional masks haven't only been for the prevention of bad luck and the prayer of fortune, but also well expressed Korean people's looks, features and personalities according to the roles. They are excellent artistic works in themselves, and many studies have been performed on the analyses and uses of the features of the masks in various fields due to their good expression of different cultural aspects, while the studies in the light of make-up are rarely performed. Therefore, this article aims to analyze the features of the Korean traditional masks and, by using this analysis, to present effective make-up designs in outdoor performances through a stage performance. In addition, this article also tries to present the orientation of make-up as an expression of artistic image, and to expand the expression area of make-up by using the Korean traditional masks in the light of make-up. For this purpose, I examined the related literature and the precedent study materials to find the origin and kinds of the Korean traditional masks, and analyzed the features of the masks. Furthermore, I established the make-up design plan using the material features of the Korean traditional masks by analyzing the characters in actual performance works, and presented the photos of works actually performed.
The Study on the Development Trend of the Times toward Digital Clothing
Kwak, Tai-Gi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 111~125
The period from the early years of the 21st Century, when the birth of Digital Clothing received as a kind of digital cultures in the modern information society, to the present time, the period is studied on as a social transition in the revolutionary digital technology in parallel with the fashion changes which have an effect on our thoughts and our life style. After the 2000's, when digital was perceived as a culture, information technology came into being owing to the technological development in the network and informative and communicative technology. This study tried to grasp the tendency of the times to Digital Clothing, which occurred in the new situation of Digital Technology, and then on the base of it, tried to classify the expressive characteristics in the Digital Clothing as the Cyberspace, Global Network, high functionality Smart Textiles and digital technology. The social reformation by the revolutionary digital technology is coming forth in the New Fashion of the digital Clothing, with the development of technology and network in the Cyberspace and real space. the Digital Clothing which led to the revolutionary change in New Fashion occurred, and by the same time, gradually the phenomena of Digital Consuming Culture is expansive.
A Study about Materialism in Fashion and Arte Povera - Focusing on Italian Fashion in the 1960s and beyond -
Lee, Yoon-Kyung ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 126~142
Arte Povera, which was started centering around of Italy in 1960, made a great sensation using by base materials in the works that were totally different from other artists' work. Beginning of Arte Povera was just starting of Base Materialism and it was a reconsideration about the life's authenticity in material civilization. Arte Povera carried worthless materials, which were overlook or ignored in the life, into the gallery. In this study, records and Arte Povera Group's works was studied. The outcome of Arte Povera's materialism was used to an analysis of fashion designers' works. It shows how to explain Arte povera's materialism in fashion designers' works in 1960s and since 1990. Materialism in fashion is expanding from constructed materials of the clothing to the body. The expression method is getting various and complex. As if 1960s' art was, modern fashion is getting one of the testing places for the Ideology. It is getting out of the boundary of the utility as fashion art by using materials. So a function of the clothing is expending including wareing. The same expression methods of the materialism between fashion and art are as follow: First, revealing silhouette or materialism of the body or material as formless material. Second, an expression method as Base Materialism from a raw material. Third, the mobility and the transformation, which are a changeable characteristic according to a place, a space and an audience.
A Study of Senescent Female Consumer's Design Preferences for their Lounge Wear and Buying Behaviors - A Focus on Elderly Women over Fifty -
Chung, Sham-Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 143~154
The purpose of this research is to investigate elderly, middle-aged female consumers' design and material preferences for lounge wear and after understanding senescent women's propensity to purchase lounge wear. The subject of research were to those living in the Seoul and capital region and 612, which did not comprise missing values, were collected and used for data analyses. All the age groups including those in their 50s and 60s prefer jacket and pants styles the most and these styles are the most favored as lounge wear as well. Those in their 50s and 60s prefer a round neckline the most while those in their 70s favor a V neckline the most. Analyses of sleeve styles of senescent women show that all the age groups favor a straight set, or a sleeve design, the most. Although the aged people investigated in this research have relatively high purchasing power, it is found that they tend to buy low priced lounge wears. Reviewing all of the above-mentioned results, the prices of garments for senescent people will be set in consideration of their economic level, so that good quality commodities may be produced and sold at different prices.
Naturalized Words of Clothing Terms Reflected in the Foreign Language Study Books of the Joseon Dynasty
Kim, Eun-Jung ; Cho, Woo-Hyun ; Kang, Soon-Che ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 4, 2009, Pages 155~172
Naturalized words of clothing terms in Joseon Dynasty could be found on the foreign language study books such as Chinese language study books; "譯語類解Yeokeoyuhae", "譯語類解補編Yeokeoyuhae-supplementary book], and "華語類抄Hwaeoyucho", Manchu language study book; "同文類解Dongmunyuhae", Mongolian language study books; 蒙語類解Mongeoyuhae", and "蒙語類解補編Mongeoyuhae-supplementary book", Japanese language study books; "倭語類解Oaeeoyuhae", and "和語類解Hwaeoyuhae", and the study books of over two kinds of foreign language; "方言類解Bangeonyuseok", and "漢淸文鑑Hanchungmungam". This study focused on the name that was related with headgear, socks and clothing from those foreign language study books. The name which was originated in Chinese language is Cwan, Yanggwan, Dugeon, Samo, Bokdu, Jungja, Okjam, Cwanja, Hwa, Johwa, Unhye, Jobok, Danlyeong, Wonlyeong, Changyi, Dunja, Hosu, Dansam, Dopa, Bigye, Peak, Yodae, and Pumdae. The name which was originated in Manchu language is Camto, Nyeolku, Dalogi, kulimae, and Mahulae. The name which was originated in Mongolian language is Tyeolic, and Dugeule. There are two kinds of names that have been used continuously during the whole Joseon Dynasty. The first ones borrowed just name, for example, Cwan, Dugeon, Mahulae, Okjam, Hwa, Dansam, Changyi, kulimae, and Yodae. The second ones loaned the name and object, for example, Yanggwan, Samo, Bokdu, Camto, Jungja, Cwanja, Jobok, Dalogi, Danlyeong, Wonlyeong, Dopa, Tyeolic, Peak, and Pumdae. It was observed that among Korean names that have been used from the Joseon Dynasty, Unhye, Dugeule, and Hosu were used as broader meaning in the Joseon Dynasty. It was names that had not used during the whole Joseon Dynasty were Johwa, Nyeolku, and Bigye.