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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 59, Issue 10 - Dec 2009
Volume 59, Issue 9 - Nov 2009
Volume 59, Issue 8 - Sep 2009
Volume 59, Issue 7 - Aug 2009
Volume 59, Issue 6 - Jul 2009
Volume 59, Issue 5 - Jun 2009
Volume 59, Issue 4 - May 2009
Volume 59, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 59, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 59, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
A Preliminary Investigation for the Restoration of the Shape of Seong-ryong Ryu's Armor
Park, Ga-Young ; Lee, Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 1~18
Due to the severe damages, it is very difficult to fathom out the original shape of the armor of Seong-ryong Ryu(1542-1607) right now. Ryu was a distinguished scholar official of his period, and his remaining armor has been designated as a National Treasure No. 460. This is a study of the types of the used scales, their positions used, the methods of their connections, and their hemmings, to figure out the original process of producing the armor. Based upon the research results, the remaining pieces of the armor are restored according to the discovered contemporary procedure of the armor. Then hypotheses are proposed for the three kinds of armor made up of long pieces, and three kinds of the armor of short pieces, and problems of the proposed hypotheses are considered for further studies. Hopefully this kind of approach shall serve as a ground stone for the better restorations of the scale armors of Joseon period in the future.
The Works of John Galliano in Haute Couture - With a Focus on C. Dior in 20005 -
Bang, Soo-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 19~40
The purpose of this study is to grasp the world of Galliano works who lead Dior Couture and to make use of this knowledge to comprehension of general trend in Haute Couture and
-porter in the future. The method of research is to search for the characteristic of Haute Couture and the general tendency of Galliano works, and to view the inclination of Dior Couture by Galliano. For sphere of research, 2000s is discussed with focus on Haute Couture, exclusive of ready-to-wear. As a result, Galliano's Couture works were distinguished into four specificities. First, the historicity including historical event, personage and epoch. Second, the orientalism. Third, the pictorial characteristic including synthetic art and public art. Forth, the quality of humor. These subjects bring about a result that break down each boundary, in the method of interpreting, as try out mixing between every elements. Galliano pursue a new domain through the fusion of East and West, past and present, classic and pop, artistry and commercialism, this induce more familiar Haute Couture to the public, breaking the strict form of Couture. It seems that this tendency will be advanced toward extrovert Couture producing the low-age phenomenon in Couture, the mixture of multi-culture and the vitality. This fusion suggest the popularity and the commerciality of Couture, which is predicted decrease the difference between Couture and
A Study of Contingency Found in Soft Sculpture and Fashion -Focused on Maurice Frechuret's Type Analysis-
Kim, Bo-Young ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 41~52
In contemporary art, soft materials are used in various forms and ways as a medium expressing contingency beyond a simple nature of materials. In the late 1960's, the appearance of soft sculpture as a refusal of the stereotyped 'Erection' characteristic of traditional sculpture served as an opportunity for more attention to soft materials. Fashion is the reflection of age, and the mirror of society, culture and arts. In other words, soft sculpture and fashion are artistic behaviors in the same context, which have neither been fixed nor erected. This study finds its significance in analyzing correlation between soft sculpture and fashion, and the importance of contingency as artistic expression means in this age when boundaries between genres are obscure, and artistic values are given to fashion. By doing so, it aims to present the direction toward which fashion should face in the future, establishing a new aesthetic consciousness with which more creative and various expressions are available in fashion as well. This study presented as its theoretical background the concept of soft sculpture affected by Marcel Duchamp among representative examples of the contingency that started to appear in art starting in the early 20th century. It also analyzed the soft sculpture appeared in 1960s and the expression methods and features of contingency appeared in fashion after late 1990s through a new approach of piling up, hanging up, and tying, three categories classified by Maurice
. Common features of the contingency expressed in soft sculpture and fashion were derived in the analysis, which are intensive effects of energy, values given to physical properties themselves, and esthetics of anti-form.
Expression of Body in Contemporary Fashion Illustrations
Park, Eun-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 53~70
The purpose of this study is to analyze the expressional traits and meanings of body images in contemporary fashion illustration, based on postmodern body theories and body images in postmodern art. For achieving the purpose, this study performed related research works and undertook a demonstrative analysis of fashion illustrations. The results are as follows : The postmodern body theories not only opposed, deconstructed the traditional concepts and norms of body, but also revealed the suppressed facts of it. Also they composed the new concepts of body. The expressional traits of body images in postmodern art and contemporary fashion illustration were categorized as realistically presented body, distorted/deformed body, fragmented body, abject body, post-gendered body and absent body. Through these traits, the meanings of defiance to authority, revelation of reality, new creation were expressed. In conclusion, the various body images in contemporary fashion illustration reflect open concepts for human beings and give new aesthetic experiences.
Images of Patterns in Western Fashion in the 20th Century - A Study of Pattern Images [II] -
Ryu, Hyun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 71~82
The purpose of this study is to help understanding of patterns and to play a guideline's role in the development of designs and the prediction of trends for present and future fashion designers and textile designers. The methods of this study are the study of academic literatures as well as practical study through the analysis about actual works. The results of study are like followings. An inquiry of Pattern history in 20c is divided into six periods by the classification of styles and the styles of fashion culture according to other artistic formative will. Main trends of Pattern's image in each period and characteristics in each dimensions of Pattern image positioning are like followings. Art Nouveau style period from 1900 to 1910 is
, Art Deco style period from 1910 to 1920 is
, Elegance style period of 1930s is
, and New Romantic style period from 1945 to mid 1950s and Pop style period from late 1950s to mid 1970s does not show main Pattern image but they are shown in four Pattern image of
. Compromising style period from late 1980s to 1990s shows all of four Pattern image, at the same time shows intensive main Pattern's image,
Spectacle and "Keeping Distance from Spectacle" in Fashion
Park, Ju-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 83~100
In the 'Society of the Spectacle', Guy Debord argued that modern life was dominated by the commodity form and the false desires it engendered. He predicted in 1967 that culture would become the driving force in the development of the economy by the end of the century, He was sure when culture becomes nothing more than a commodity, it must also become the star commodity of the spectacular society. Fashion, the starriest of star commodities with its seductive fantasy approaches to the viewers occluding the commercial reality. From this point, the spectacular property of the modern fashion can be found. This study starts on the notion that the modern fashion is on the center of capitalist consumer culture and is constructed by spectacle. On this premise, the purpose of this study is analysing the attribute of 'spectacle' and 'keeping distance ￡Tom spectacle' in modern fashion expressed in fashion show, fashion media and fashion store. The fashion houses in the 1990s that recognised the commercial value of shock and spectacle were eager to employ young spectacularly visible named designers. They generated the publicity necessary for sales of perfume, cosmetics, bags and diffusion range of clothes through the visible fashion show and fashion media. In the fashion show and fashion media, fashion goods as the commodity both flaunts and disguises its commercial nature in spectacle. The spectacle on the fashion store is the process turning the commodity into image to arouse viewer's higher interest. In the fashion store, the appearance of the commodity such as space, display, package is considered more importantly than its 'utility value'. Meanwhile, the study also covered the innovative trial to evade the ubiquitous 'spectacle' in fashion area.
Stylings Comparison of Combat Uniforms in Two Historic Soap Operas
Choi, Won-Kyong ; Kim, Hye-Ree ; Cho, Yoon-Gyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 101~114
In recent times Fusion Historic Soap Operas have been produced and highly rated in Showtime. They have encouraged more creative costume designs for historic soap operas, as it is difficult to re-create costumes of the era in which the soap opera is set, knowledge of which is scant or even non-existent. These more creative and innovative costumes appeal to young modern audience in a way which the more classical setting did not. This study aims to study styling of combat uniforms in two Fusion Historic Soap Operas- "Zumong" and "Taewangsasingi" and to introduce new styling for future use. Those combat uniforms in two fusion historic soap operas were reproduced by modern imaginations and fantasies, rather than historical researches. Also the new design has applied unique styling for each character and enhances characters in those soap operas. This study focuses on combat uniforms of main male characters, but it can be suggestible that following researches will study in a variety of costume design stylings and characters in future historical soap operas.
A Comparative Study of Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's Fashion Works in Terms of Iconology
Yun, Ji-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 115~134
This study is about Christian Dior's and Martin Margiela's fashion works that create 'New look' which leads the periodic ideology, philosophies, circumstances and the trend at that time. For the systematized interpretation, this study investigates the iconology of E. Panofsky, E. H. Gombrich and N. Goodman. Based on their theories, iconological analysis paradigm is made into four phases: I. Recognition of iconological form, II. Analysis of External Elements, III. Analysis of symbolic meanings and artistic will and IV. Aesthetic enjoyment and communication with a viewer. Christian Dior treats woman as a organic and architectural structure. He falls in love with himself such as narcissus and woman who wears his works. Dior's ego is visualized by woman and his works which are the symbol of narcissism and beauty. Martin Margiela makes form of clothes and at the same time destroys. Margiela deconstructs aura of clothes and tries to make it unfamiliar. Also he changes traditional idea of beauty and creates 'ugliness' which is a notion of dialectic. Margiela transforms elements of clothes which brings variation of thinking and makes it possible to create new look. Christian Dior and Martin Margiela are the creators of new look which visualizes the notion of habitus that is the space of self-exists. Fashion dose not have to be what people wears but it could be an image itself. It means that fashion is a part of ontology and it is a 'New look' which is based on economy, the standard of periodical beauty and ideal aspects. The creation of clothes is a work of embodiment of human being where it constructed or deconstructed.
Estimation of Historical Dates of the Clothes Excavated from 'Euiin'-Park's Tomb
Song, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 135~151
This study aims to estimate the chronical year of 'Euiin'-Park's clothes excavated costumes from the tomb of 'Lady Euiim-Park's which has been stocked in Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. The methods of this study is, observed structure and style of clothes and characterize and compared with other similar clothes excavated from other tombs. The result showed Park's clothes was estimated to be from the mid to late 16th century. The elements that enable us to estimate the period are first of all the wearing of women's Dan-ryung, and the shape of the gore and sleeve. Second the shape of Jegory's collar, and Gyron-ma-gi. Third the form of layered skirt and Somaja[hat]. Fourth tiger hyung-bae which embroidered patches on the breast and back of official uniforms. Last, the style and types of Jinju-Ryu's who's the spouse clothes. It will be useful to estimate the chronical year of clothes excavated from unidentified tombs when refer this styles of clothes.
The Comparison of Objective Images of Traditional Casual Brands
Yu, Ji-Hun ; Park, NoHyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 152~166
The purpose of this study was to propose a brand image profile by analyzing how the consumer perceived the rival brands having relative structure between corporate image, store image, and. product image. Fifty-two questions were prepared for the respondents, and 262 questionnaires were selected for analyzing. The data were analyzed by a frequency, a mean, a reliability, and a paired t-test of the SPSS 12.0. The results were as follows : 1. As influence rank of the brand image, a product image had greatest influence followed by a store image and a corporate image. 2. The factors, which were regarded as important from consumer, and satisfaction of those factors were evaluated. As a result of the analysis, the degree of satisfaction of the factors was relatively low than that of the importance. It was proved that the important factors of the brand's image and the degree of satisfaction of the factors were not the same from this study.
Strategic Culture Marketing Enhancing Brand Image and Customers' Loyalty - Focusing on Multi-dimensional approach for Companies, Consumers, and Other Subjects -
Lee, Yun-Kyung ; Shin, Kyu-Hee ; Hwang, Sun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 167~179
The purposes of this study were to explore the influence on fashion brand image and brand loyalty according to fit of the fashion brand with cultural art field, motivation in culture marketing of the apparel company, and involvement of the consumers in art activities. The subjects ware 274 male and female in 20s and 30s living in Seoul and Gyeonggi area. The study was obtained through the use of an experimental design which was
mixed factorial design. The summary main results were as follows. First, as far as the effect of the three variables on the social contribution image of the fashion brand, the results of the 3-way interaction are positive. Second, as far as the effect of the three variables on the product image of the fashion brand, the data suggests that only the main-effect of motivation in culture marketing of the apparel company is meaningfully positive. Third, as far as the effect of the three variables on fashion brand loyalty, both fit of the fashion brand with cultural art field and involvement of the consumers in art activities variables show positive results.
A Refutation on the view of Parhae Marek's Origin as from Kokuryo
Kim, Min-Jee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 5, 2009, Pages 180~201
I scrutinized the idea that Parhae Marek was inherited from Kokuryo which was presented in "The study on the Marek" published in the journal of the Korean Society of Costume 55-5, and concluded the following results: 1. The Marek which Samguk sagi recorded is the red head scarf used for dancers who do Koguryo dance in the Babarian Music System in Tang dynasty. Since its original record Tong dian tells that Kokuryo performers' costumes then had strikingly changed and Quichi and GaoChang dancers also wore Marek, so the idea that Marek was originated from Koguryo should be reconsidered. 2. Considering the Yaksoori mural's indistinguishable condition as well as the same scenes from other Kokuryo mural paintings, I can't evidently tell that the first person who carries shouldering drum puts Marek on. 3. should be pronounced [Mal] for the meaning of a head scarf and its definition can't be limited only for the sash type. 4. Diverse historical data on head scarves deny the assumption that the sash type of hairband would have been succeeded from Kokuryo to the Parhae Marek. 5. The Marek of Princess Junghyo's mural painting can be an example that shows the costume of Tang influenced Parhae's. But the similarity in styles of costume between contemporary countries doesn't mean their reciprocal racial or political identity.