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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 59, Issue 10 - Dec 2009
Volume 59, Issue 9 - Nov 2009
Volume 59, Issue 8 - Sep 2009
Volume 59, Issue 7 - Aug 2009
Volume 59, Issue 6 - Jul 2009
Volume 59, Issue 5 - Jun 2009
Volume 59, Issue 4 - May 2009
Volume 59, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 59, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 59, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
A Study of the Art Mode in Modern Fashion
Kim, Sun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 1~14
This study was aimed to make clear fashion is an expression art displaying not only functional or commercial aspects, but creative functions as an artistic work by analyzing Art Mode and its values, and to help develop more creative design by combining fashion with art. In terms of method, relevant documents, precedent studies, and the works announced in domestic and foreign fashion collections, such as Vogue, Fashion News, Gap, and Collections from 2000 to 2009. According to the findings, artistic works were used by the Art Mode in modern fashion. The respect of artists was expressed using historic famous painting works or current works in various fields, designers' individuality was shown by directly applying work messages to clothes, and fashion design was converted into a tool to communicate the messages like artistic works. Second, the various styles, using the formative character of modern art styles from animalism to modern abstractism, showed the creativity of design, transformed art into the art that enables to see the image of modern art, and presented the possibility of developing into a newer creative design through the application of numerous art styles and the transformation of ideas. Third, the collaboration with artists was used. Fashion designers or fashion brands tried to change the images of works or brands in partnership with artists or to increase differentiated images. The future direction of fashion is a pursuit of new form and content to express fashion, not simply to use artistic works. It is expected that such pursuit will lead to more creative and artistic fashion design.
A Study of the Materials and Composition of Mang-geon Excavated from Ikjeong Yi's Tomb
Chae, Ok-Ja ; Ryu, Hyo-Seon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 15~25
The structure and material of Mang-geon from excavated tomb of Yi-ikjung in 1700', Seoul, were analyzed and identified. The Mang-geon was worn by Yi-ikjung when it is found. Until now, it is know that Mang-geon is made of horsehair, but it find out to be made of silk threads. This result verified the presence of 'sa-kyul Mang-geon' which been estimated to used only for document records. This proves Mang-geon has been produced in the silk threads as well as horsehair and human hair. The front and back of the Mang-geon was made of intertwisted silk threads by using simple linking method. Dang is constructed of looped linking method. The size of Dang is wider, which give greater flexibility to wrap top of head.
A Comparative Study of the Shapes of 3D Virtual Skirts and Actually Made Skirts
Lee, So-Young ; Kang, In-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 26~36
The aim of this study is to be the fundamental study for virtual clothing system of the future through a comparative analysis of the difference between a virtual frill skirt and a real frill skirt using a 3-dimensional Apparel cad system. Satin was selected as a comparative fabric of the real skirt and virtual skirt. And compared skirts are frilled 1.5widths, 2widths, and 2.5widths. In case of 1.5widths frilled, the real skirts and virtual skirts showed no significant difference except in shirring frill expression. However, in case of 2widths frilled, and 2.5widths frilled skirts, significant differences in the extent of frill flattening, the sectional diagram of the bottom hem, and the skirt shape. The virtual skirt showed that as its multiple proportion of frill increased, the sidelines of the skirt drooped and excessively extended, and collision detection that the belt was twisted and torn apart arose. Furthermore, not only the frill but also the shape of the skirt was transformed, and the bottom hems were widened back and forth, and the sectional diagram of the bottom hems were transformed into rounded shapes.
The Business Activities in Ui-jeon and their Effects on Commercial Power in the 18
Lee, Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 37~48
This paper summarized the forming, structure and management of the Ui-Jeon(衣廛) in Joseon Dynasty, considered the change of the commercial power of the Ui-Jeon in the
centuries. The Ui-Jeon was established the early period of the Joseon Dynasty. The Ui-Jeon merchants organized the association named Dojung(都中) and were in business with facilities like Haenrang(行廊) and Doga(都家). The Ui-Jeon was mid-sized Si-Jeon, the licensed shop(市廛). The Ui-Jeon held the monopoly of clothes. The Ui-Jeon merchants sold and bought old clothes, sold new clothes, lent the wedding dress for a bridegroom. The Ui-Jeon paid taxes and supplied clothes, goods and sewing labor for the marriage, funeral ceremonies of the royal family. The commercial power of the Ui-Jeon was threatened by free merchants(私商) named old clothes mercants(破衣商). Finally the Ui-Jeon merchants lost the exclusive right to clothes in 1791. After that, the Ui-Jeon merchanrs appealed to the government to give them the monopoly. The Ui-Jeon merchants regained the sole right to sell Ju-ui(紬衣), one item only, but it was temporary. Separately The Ui-Jeon merchants acquired the rights to collect the sub-taxes(分稅) from free merchants.
A Study of the Changes in Types of Justaucorps for French Men, and Pattern making from the End of the 17
Century to the End of the 18
Kim, Yang-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 49~65
As basic materials in this research, 874 pieces of engraving that recorded the garment produced by diverse authors in the 17-18th century were collected among the collections of male and female garment in the engraving kept by National Library of France and 216 pieces of engraving were classified among them to observe justaucorps as stated in the materials. Since type of justaucorps in the 18th century can be classified by difference in shape and change through the above engraving materials in large quantity and the shape and composition can be compared and analyzed with other materials such as picture, stored garment, written materials without difficulty, the chronology can be composed by single type of justaucorps. Intending to understand the change in composition caused by type classification and pattern making as per analysis of type property of justaucorps, the men's upper garment in France in the 18th century. Checking change in design per from and materials, justaucorps of 1680-1700s was in silhouette where waist in the length above knee was adhered and slightly spread to lower part. In the type of 1710-1750s, waist adhered remarkably and many pleats were made under waist to produce volume of form that spread to lower part like skirt. In the type of 1760-1780s, straight silhouette was attached to whole body and end of front adjustment in slant line turns to rear part. The developmental aspect of construction can be checked by making pattern. Changing the cutting line of body plate to smoothly connect section and to try to adhere to the body, the development of simpler and delicate pattern production technique was confirmed.
A Study of Surrealistic Hat Designs and Their Organic Relationship with Clothes in Modern Fashion (1990-2008)
Kim, Eun-Sil ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 66~81
The purposes of this study were to analyze the formative relationship between Surrealistic clothes and hat with the focus on the period from the 1990's to 2008 and to find out the development direction of next hat design. The method to analyze the relationship between clothes and hats was the formative analysis by Marian L. Davis and Marilyn R. Delong. Hat design of surrealism was cylindrical or tear drop in a shape according to the principle of
and Trompe l'oeil, and was similar with the Form of a jacket, a sleeve, or a skirt. In color, accent color coordination mainly appeared and sometimes contrast color coordination induced illusion effect. In material, a variety of materials were used according to the principle of
and Trompe l'oeil, and contrast was widely used like color. In Decoration, the decoration or pattern of clothes was intactly applied to hats. The results suggest that clothes and hat have an organic relationship, and a hat style is changed with formative elements of clothes.
An Analysis of the Design Characteristics of 'Vivienne Tam' Collections, for the Launch of Renowned Korean Luxury Fashion Brands
Bae, Soo-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 82~96
The purpose of this study is to present the basic approach of producing the luxury fashion brands containing of the Korean traditional traits on the basis of traditional transformation with the modern concept, taking the 'Vivienne Tam' 2000's collections. This study has focused on its transformation of the traditional one of China, and made this as the subject of investigation. It's design characteristic could be defined as "modern interpretations of China chic", and it would be divided into two groups. The ingenious mixture of Chinese tradition into the modern chic could be concluded like these. The external characteristics is categorized in the three ways (1) the aesthetic application of the Chinese traditional patterns(dragon, water waves, peony, Japanese apricot flower, bamboo, bats, Chinese characters etc.), (2)the modern application of Chinese traditional costume details(front opening of Chipao, mandarin collar and knot buttons) and (3)the modernization of Chinese traditional technique(knotting, embroidery, beading and paper cutting). To deal with the internal characteristics, (1)the aesthetic mixture of East and West, (2)the formative expressions of the traditional view on the universe and religion are remarkable. The Chinese embodiment and the view of the universe and religion was integrated into the patterns of dragon, water waves, clouds, fire, woods, and metals. In order to afford the creative designer capable of encompassing the East and West, the teaching about the Korean tradition along with the technical and practical aspect of fashion is most important, while encouraging the professional designer to make a sophisticated ones which are attributed to the Korean tradition, and thereby come to be attractive to the world customer. The study about the Korean costumes, traditional colors, the symbolic meaning of the traditional patterns, cuttings, compositions, extending to the various kinds of myths, songs, paintings and crafts are essential for the Korean designer brand to be the global luxury brands.
A Study on the Relationship between Interest in Appearance, Appearance Satisfaction and Life Satisfaction in Adolescents
Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 97~109
The purposes of this study were to investigate the relationships between appearance interest, appearance satisfaction, and life satisfaction of adolescent, to disclose the differences of these variables according to demographic characteristics, and to examine the determinants of life satisfaction. The subjects were 322 teenaged girls (167 middle school students and 155 high school students) living in Seoul. The variables of appearance interest were plastic surgery, weight control, clothing interest, and hairstyle interest. Life satisfaction included school life satisfaction and daily life satisfaction. Appearance satisfaction had negative relationships with plastic surgery interest and weight control interest, while appearance satisfaction had no relationships with clothing interest and hairstyle interest. School life satisfaction and daily life satisfaction had negative relationships with plastic surgery interest. The upper class adolescents had high level of clothing interest and life satisfaction, and lower class adolescents had high level of plastic surgery interest and had low appearance satisfaction as compared to other classes. The adolescent group with high school grade had high level of appearance satisfaction, and the group with low school grade had high level of weight control interest. The life satisfaction was influenced by appearance satisfaction the most, and the next in the order by school grade, residence area, and weight control interest. The explanatory power of the four variables was 30.8%. Social stratification and whether mothers had an occupation or not had an indirect effect on the life satisfaction.
A Comparative Study of Korean and Japanese Housewives, considering Purchasing Behaviors and Awareness of Eco-friendly Materials in Fashion Products
Han, Seung-Hee ; Jeong, Mi-Ae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 110~122
The objective of this study is to suggest a direction eco-friendly material based fashion products may pursue in the 21 st century in order to protect our environment. This is done by considering the knowledge of the products by housewives, the main consuming players in a household. 398 copies of the survey were collected amongst Korean and Japanese housewives in the 30s and 40s aged group sample and analysed using SPSS 12.0 statistic program. The analysis results are as follows. First, base material was highly knew by Koreans in contradiction with Japanese who were highly knowing the disposal process in regard to eco-friendly fashion products. Second, a higher ratio of Koreans tended to purchase the product with consideration of health issues, however quality of the material was considered more by Japanese buyers. Finally, the result showed that eco-friendly products buyers from both countries had more willingness to purchase eco-friendly material based fashion products than non-buyers in the future. Korean housewives showed more interest in environment, benefit to health and value from eco-friendly material based fashion products than Japanese. Koreans had a better understanding of information and knowledge of the product, as well as higher future purchase intention however, Koreans considered less durability, design and variety of products.
Classification of the Lower Half of the Body by the Somatotypes of Elderly Men
Seok, Hye-Jung ; Im, Nam-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 123~131
This study aims at presenting the basic data related to the somatotype of elderly men at the point of Korea's entering into an aging society. Efforts were made to classify the lower-half somatotype of elderly men, with the application of the measurements of 261 elderly men of 60 years of age and over up to 70, which were available from the physique measurement survey project for Koreans. The number of analysis items was 31. The statistical treatment was made through SPSS win 12.0 program, and the analytical methods used were the basic statistics, factor analysis, and cluster analysis. The findings are as follows: Elderly men experienced the decreases in height and weight, in comparison with middle-aged ones, while they showed a flat shape at trunk, with more protruded waist and abdomen and with flat buttock. The analysis of the constituting factors for the lower-half body of elderly men resulted in the 6 items. The elements constituting the lower-half body of elderly men included the shape from waist to hip, the spread of hip and height of knee, the shape of leg, thigh size, the length of leg, and the volume of abdominal. The total accountability was 81.59 %. The cluster analysis for lower-half somatotype of elderly men resulted in the classification of three types. The above findings are intended to assist the designing of ready-made slacks with a high level of fitness for elderly men.
The Characteristics of the Fabrics Excavated from the Tomb of Dongrae Jung, Kimhwak's Wife
Cho, Hyo-Sook ; Lee, Eun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 132~151
All of 132 kinds of fabrics are used in excavated costume from the Dongrae Jung's Tomb. Classified by its materials, it is divided into small groups as follows: 58 pieces of silk tabby 43.9%, 2 of filament silk tabby 1.5%, 14 of thin filament silk tabby 10.6%, 19 of spun yarn silk 14.4%, 4 of twill without a pattern 3.0%, 8 of patterned silk tabby 6.1%, 23 of satin damask 17.4%, 1 of damask with supplementary gold thread 0.8%, 2 of mixture fabric with silk and cotton 1.5%, and 1 of ramie fabric 0.8%. Classified by ways of weaving: 96 pieces of plain weave 73%, 23 of satin weave 17%, 8 of patterned silk tabby consisting of plain weave material and twill weave pattern-6%, 4 of twill weave 3%, and 1 of compound weave 1 %. In point of patterns, the most often used ones are plant patterns such as lotus patterns, peony patterns, plum blossom patterns, flowers representing seasons patterns, and small flower patterns. For animal patterns, it has phoenix patterns designed together with flowers representing seasons patterns. And for natural scenery patterns, it shows cloud patterns with treasures patterns together. For object patterns, it also shows treasures patterns mixed with cloud or lotus together. For geometrical patterns, it has rhomboid patterns and 卍 character patterns; some show only rhomboid patterns and others show material patterns of 卍 character patterns blended together with fruit, lotus, etc.
A Study of Simulacre Expression in Fashion Illustrations, Using Lenticular Technique
Lee, Jee-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 8, 2009, Pages 152~165
The purpose of this study was to expand the expression of Fashion Illustration using Lenticular imaging process. In the 2-dimensional pictures, Lenticular imaging process can be effective to make multiple, virtual and variable images, which are assumed the main characteristics of modern Fashion Illustration. For this study, the main characteristics of digital based fashion trend and Fashion Illustration were analyzed. The main characteristics of digital based fashion were 'Interaction, Variableness, Virtuality, Multiples and Hyper-text' which were related with Simulacre thinking. The main characteristics of expression in Fashion Illustration were 'Virtuality and Multiples'. The image of 'Variableness' was an important factor in digital based fashion, but it was restricted within Fashion Illustration because of the 2-dimensional picture. Therefore, the Lenticular imaging process was proposed as an effective method to expand 2-dimensional limit, giving an effect of 'Variableness' in Fashion Illustration. Based on this study, 5 illustration works were proposed. The Lenticular imaging process was applied in making the images of 'Virtuality, Multiples and Variableness' in 5 works. The result of this study can be a basic material to understand the characteristics of modern Fashion Illustration as a meaningful sub-culture, and diverse expressions corresponding with the phases of the times.