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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 59, Issue 10 - Dec 2009
Volume 59, Issue 9 - Nov 2009
Volume 59, Issue 8 - Sep 2009
Volume 59, Issue 7 - Aug 2009
Volume 59, Issue 6 - Jul 2009
Volume 59, Issue 5 - Jun 2009
Volume 59, Issue 4 - May 2009
Volume 59, Issue 3 - Mar 2009
Volume 59, Issue 2 - Feb 2009
Volume 59, Issue 1 - Jan 2009
Selecting the target year
A Study on Fashion Design Applying Traditional Patterns in Northeastern Asia - Focusing on the Costumes of Korea, China and Japan in the
Kim, Ji-Hyun ; Kan, Ho-Sup ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 1~15
This study aimed to create a new costume design suitable for publicizing our traditional patterns in the world by using the traditional patterns of Northeast Asia region. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. First, China is characterized by a strictly fixed configuration and a realistic description, Japan a simplistic modality and an abstract-geometrical pattern, and Korea a eclectic type, whole-pattern, and part-pattern. This study aimed to make the pattern by using harmoniously these characters. Second, Korea, China, and japan have many similarities concerning a symbolism and a type of pattern. In the modern fashion, they often use dragon patterns, various flower patterns like peony, plum blossom, or mum, and geometrical patterns. This study focused on expressing patterns which contain the ornamental symbolism of Oriental Look, aside from an existing symbolism, and show a traditional sentiment of Northeast Asia. The method for expressing traditional patterns usually included weaving, dyeing, embroidery, or gold foil. Although these methods have been used in all the three nations, even rubbed metal foil and patchwork have been widely used in Japan.
Development of Upper Garment Prototype for Girls in Late Elementary School
Kim, Hyun-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 16~25
The purpose of this study is to develop pattern of a Upper Garment Prototype for late elementary school aged girls. The body of late elementary school aged girls changes steadily up to the adult and is characterized by its periodic noticeable physical distinctions. This study is selected a test pattern from 3 existing patterns through a preliminary wearing test, conducted wearing tests, and sensory evaluations three times to review and improve the pattern, and presented the pattern of late elementary school aged girls. The research pattern was developed considering aesthetic and functional aspect. The average score of sensory evaluation on appearance was 4.13 for the research pattern, which was higher than 2.74 for the test pattern. The according to the results of verifying significant differences in the test items between the two patterns through the t-test, in the items such as pleats in the line of a waist, the ease of the girth of a waist, the location of shoulder line was superior to the test pattern. The average score of the sensory evaluation on functionality was 4.91 for the research pattern, which was higher than 3.90 for the test pattern. The research pattern is superior to the test pattern in static posture, dynamic posture than the test pattern.
A Study of Sewing Methods Used for the Hems of Men's Coat Excavated from the Tombs of Yeosan Song Clan
Lee, Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 26~42
The purpose of this study is to examine how to sew the hem of men's coat which were excavated from the Yeosan Song Clan's tombs that are thought to be formed between the late 15th and the late 16th centuries, findings of the study can be summarized as follows. 1. Andan, or inside facing was used to prevent the hem from being worn or swollen or to make the hem properly arranged. It was generally used for single-layered and cotton-quilted coat for men. Deotdan was used mainly for men's coat having oblique cutting lines and jemuldan for those having straight cutting lines. In single-layed coat for men, the width of andan was widened a little as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century, but in cotton-quilted ones, the width was not significantly changed. 2. Fixing the lining and the upper was used as a method to prevent the lining of men's coat from being pushed out or the hem of the clothes from being swollen. The method was generally used for double-layered, cotton and cotton-quilted coat for men. The double back-stitching was usually used for double-layered and cotton coat for men and the broad-stitching for Cotton-quilted ones. 3. Among men's coat, those whose siding was partially opened were less spare in the lower end than those whose siding was wholly opened. For this reason, the former clothes were more likely to have the tip of the siding easily torn. To solve this problem, overhand knotting 1, overhand knotting 2 and lotus-flower knotting strings were used for men's coat whose siding was partially opened. Among the three types, lotus-flower knotting was most elaborate in form. For men's coat, overhand knotting became gradually replaced by lotus-flower knotting as the times moved from the late 15th to the late 16th century.
A Study of Body-in-Pieces Images in Fashion Design
Choi, Yoo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 43~54
The purpose of this study was to clarify the meanings of the images of the body-in-pieces in fashion design. This study focusing on the body-in-pieces based theoretically in that, and started to figure out the meanings in western art history. Body-in-pieces images were brought in art to express symbolic meanings to destroy the past, sexual fetish, unconsciousness, desire, fantasy, and to disorganize male-subjective idealistic female image. While in fashion design, body-in-pieces images categorized in three, erotic image, cyborg image, abjection image. First, erotic images in fashion design are fragmented body image, such like lip, hair, eye and etc. Second, cyborg image was represented by 3-dimentional molding image made of metallic materials, and last, abjection image representing death image used skeleton and bone image induced uncanny and sadistic feelings. Body-in-pieces images in fashion design are related to fetishism, uncanny, disorganizing traditional femininity.
A Study on the Formativeness of the Fashion Shoes in High Fashion
Lee, Hyo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 55~70
This study aims at analyzing the formativeness of women fashion shoes shown in the high fashion since 2000 along with the necessity of study for such purposes. Fashion shoes designed for the perfection of high fashion have been positioned as an important item to increase the value of fashion. Subsequently, three formative images through the research method under the literature study could be analyzed as follows. First, the Fetishism image appeared from 18th century and the shoe heel has the erotic internal beauty while attracting the erotic nature from the perspective of 'feet confinement'. The high heel came to have an absolute relationship with the feminine beauty, and the feet and shoes are accepted for the erotic symbol regardless of anyone in the East or West. Second, the fashion shoes in the Maximalism image to pursue for the dream and excitement at the same time have been shown at the same time by using various ornaments in an exaggerated manner for the use of ornaments to clothes through designs by shoe designers. Third, the Aristocratism image in the fashion shoes was remarkably highlighted with the use of materials from processing natural materials with the best quality, which was expressed in an exotic manner with roughness and comfort despite the nature of refinement balanced with the simple reactionary tendency and technical senses of handicrafts. It can be perceived that the inner emotions of human beings are expressed by intentionally dismantling the functions of shoes in terms of functionality even in the fashion shoes in completing the ideal images after which are pursued by people.
A Comparative Study of Plant Patterns Found in the Textiles of Goryeo and its Neighbor Countries
Yeom, Ha-Ryoung ; Cho, Hyo-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 71~86
This study examines plant patterns expressed on the fabrics during the Goryeo Dynasty and many countries in the Chinese continent and analyzes their symbolism and formativeness. This study deals with clothes which is one of the most fundamental aspects in a culture and plant patterns on them; it examines the overall formativeness of plant patterns in East Asia from the 10th century to the 14th century by studying plant patterns in the Goryeo Dynasty and the contemporaneous dynasties in the Chinese continent - Five Dynasties, Song Dynasty, Western Xia Dynasty, Liao Dynasty, Jin Dynasty and Yuan Dynasty. The plant patterns of each country were categorized by the type of plant. The composition and expression of plant patterns were examined and statistically analyzed. Small flowers were found in Goryeo fabrics twice more than other types that could be clearly identified, and peony was the most popular flower used in Chinese fabrics. In terms of composition of plant patterns, both Goryeo and Chinese fabrics had plant only patterns more frequently than the patterns mixed with animals or jewels. Regarding expression methods of plant patterns, the most common one in Goryeo fabrics was the petal-type, while the branch-type is the most common one in Chinese fabrics. The plant patterns of the Goryeo Dynasty show beauty of simplicity with minimalism and simplification while expressed with brilliant sold threads on dark background, such as purple or light green, so the overall feeling of fabrics was simple yet nobel.
A Study of Double-Layered Dangui I - Focusing on the Remains of Double-Layered Dangui -
Ku, Nam-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 87~96
Dangui is a formal dress of the wives of high officers and royalty in Chosun Dynasty and it was worn as a day dress in palace and a semi-ceremonial dress in upper-class households. Among the remains of Dangui a double-layered Dangui was found in which two sets of Dangui were combined to be worn as a single piece. The double-layered Dangui consists of an Over-Dangui and an Under-Dangui. The results of the examination of the remains for the Over-Dangui are as follows. As lone as the colors of the remains are identifiable, all of the Over-Dangui were green, whereas the Under-Dangui and lining materials were red. The textile was mostly in woven silk with pattern and it was frequently decorated with golden wefts or foils. A breast embroidery with phoenix and a dragon embroidery were also found. Such Dangui was worn mostly by the high members of the king's palace including the queen, crown princess, bastard princess, and monarch. There were two exceptions of wearing Dangui outside the king's palace. A simple Under-Dangui was made to enable a comfort fit of the two sets of Dangui and the suture was partially sewn. With three doth strings and cuffs, two pieces of Dangui were eventually assembled into one piece of clothing. Differences between the remains and the documents were also found in regards to textile and wearers of Dangui.
A Comparative Study of Casual Styles Between Korean and Chinese Women - Focusing on 2008 Summer Street Fashion in Seoul and Shanghai -
Dong, Bei ; Oh, Hyun-A ; Bae, Soo-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 97~114
The purpose of this thesis is to contribute to the fashion industry of Korea and China by providing the basic informations of Korean fashion company planning to launch into the Chinese fashion market, and also presenting the Korean fashion style to the China, by the way of searching the sameness and differences of the casual style. The direct picturing method and comparative analysis were applied for the methods of study. The whole body pictures were taken from the major fashion streets of Seoul and Shanghai, then clear 250 photos were selected in each city. The period for two weeks from 1st, July to 14th, July 2008, and from 10AM until 5PM. The results of study are as follows. The sequential order of frequency is easy casual, jean casual, romantic casual and character casual in Seoul and Shanshai. In case of easy casual, there were many similarities of the preferences in the items, colors and coordinations, while showing the differences in the styling of the clothing. Taking the jean casual, there were no specific differences in items between two cities except the styling of clothing in which the tidy style were more prevalent in Seoul, while the sexy style were more predominant in Shanghai. The main item of romantic style was the one-piece dresses. This was preferred in the style of A-line or H-line with short length, in Seoul while X-silhouette showing the body line with knee-length skirts were more popular in Shanghai. Finally the frequency of character casual is below 5% in both cities. In the items, the skirts were more preferred as a bottom in Seoul in contrast with the pants being more prevalent in Shanghai, the sleeveless top popular in both cities. The modest style were noted in Seoul, the sexy style were more prevalent in Shanghai. However many similarities between two cities were found in the speed of acceptabilities of fashion.
Historical Review of Korean Traditional Baeja, and an Exploration of its Modernization
Lee, Eun-Hyung ; Cho, Hyo-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 115~130
A kind of Korean traditional jacket, Baeja, has been a Korean traditional costume equipped with practicality and formative aesthetics from the Three Kingdoms period to the Joseon Dynasty. Accordingly, the researcher of this study highly valued a modern sense of Baeja with various types of design and forms and attempted to make efforts to apply it into modern life. This study provided a new direction in the modernization work of traditional costumes by creating fashion images newly interpreted corresponding to a modern sense and trend through the application of formative characteristics and noticeable elements via the coordination of traditional Baeja and modern costumes. On the one hand, it would be meaningful in terms of contributing to the activation of traditional Hanbok by providing people with ample opportunities to wear it in modern daily lives variously. On the other hand, the actual purpose of this study was to perform a modernization work for traditional costumes by attempting to conduct a crossover that could let people move into other areas freely, that is, a creative and innovative research associating the area of costume history and that of coordination.
A Study of the Forms and Decorative Functions of Beauty Spots
Moon, Jeong-Eun ; Kim, Sook-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 131~145
Literature in beauty art is insufficient regarding beauty spot, though it has played an important role in beauty art history. This study aims at analyzing various patterns and decorative functions of beauty spots and examining their remarkable differences by place and time. It attempts to find the symbolistic characteristics of beauty patch which influenced European countries socially and culturally in the 17th and 18th centuries, findings are as follows: first, beauty spots are extremely various by patch patterns and by forms, e.g. Wha-Jeon(花鈿), Bindi and artificial points. In the view of cosmetic purpose, they have been used to beautify appearances, reveal social positions and express the desires like blessing or protection from evil. In the times of Baroque and Rococo, though temporarily, people with beauty spots and their belonged societies used them as communicative tools: obviously, they functioned symbolistically. This study surveyed 156 persons to find what cosmetic messages and images beauty spots present in the contemporary world. Using SPSS 13.0, the study analyzed the responses and found that beauty spots are still functioning and welcomed to let women look more beautiful and more attractive, though their cosmetic messages and sizes have been simplified and scaled down.
Analysis of Values through the Establishment of a Concept of Eco-friendly Design - Focusing on an Analysis of the Contents of Previous Studies -
Ha, Seung-Yeon ; Park, Jae-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 146~162
In the current product and fashion design, the 'eco-friendliness' is affecting practically and conceptually on all the sectors of industry and culture. Therefore, this study seeks to examine specific values in the concept of eco-friendly design. The subjects of this paper are studied on the scholarly journals, and are confined to those from 1990, when naturalism and ecology trend started to be in product and fashion, to the moment of search of February 2009. This study used 'Naturalism', 'Green', 'Environment-friendly', 'Eco', 'Sustainable', 'Well-being' and 'Lohas' as key words for the search. Analysis is performed by content analysis and the unit of analysis was based upon the adjectives, nouns and phrases which is related key words in the concept of eco-friendly design. The study realized that there are personal value, environmental value, economic value, and social value in the concept of eco-friendly design. In the result, it is not enough to consider the effect on environment only. Understanding the personal, environmental, economic, and social value from the viewpoint of customers, finding the optimal design factors, and reflecting them in development of product and fashion are necessary to pave the way for advanced eco-friendly design. The results of this paper would help to the future product and fashion development for eco-friendly brands.
Superimposition of Russian Constructivist Architectural Spaces Reflected in Modern Fashion Design
Jin, Kyung-Ok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 59, issue 9, 2009, Pages 163~179
The superimposition of the Russian constructivist architectural design is one of the notable transforming techniques of conventional design principles. The main objective of this paper is to analyse the superimposed space in the modern fashion design based on the techniques and characteristics of superimposition appeared in Russian constructivism architectural space. The artistic characteristics of the superimposed design in the modern fashion design can be determined by codes of dynamics, sense of space, rhythmical sense, communications and tension of the dress. Through this study, it was found that superimposition of the Russian constructivist architectural design in the modern fashion design has influenced the modern fashion design space in the forms of dynamics with directive sense, vitality through transparency, uniformity with geometric interpenetrates, intensive visual attraction created by duplicity, communication between human body and clothes, creation of transformative beauty and enhancement of structural volume on clothes.