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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 60, Issue 10 - Dec 2010
Volume 60, Issue 9 - Nov 2010
Volume 60, Issue 8 - Sep 2010
Volume 60, Issue 7 - Aug 2010
Volume 60, Issue 6 - Jul 2010
Volume 60, Issue 5 - Jun 2010
Volume 60, Issue 4 - May 2010
Volume 60, Issue 3 - Mar 2010
Volume 60, Issue 2 - Feb 2010
Volume 60, Issue 1 - Jan 2010
Selecting the target year
Study of Product Sizes Currently Used by Manufacturers, for the Purpose of Designing Figure Skating Wear for children
Park, Sang-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 1~13
Recently population of figure skating is growing fast, so that the needs for girls figure skating wear of better quality and better fit is growing too. As the characteristics of figure skating require both strong stretching and grace movements, the skating wears should be designed to have sufficient extensibility and impressive effects through body movements. In order that the figure skating wear should be fit well by using right sizing systems. The purpose of this study is to find out how the figure skating wear specialists are using their sizing system. There were two separate comparative studies in this article. One is to compare girls' sizing system between countries such as USA, UK, Japan and Korea. This is to look into the characteristics of girls body measurements than adults or other ages. The other is to compare sizing systems of 88 figure skating wear specialists from 8 countries. As a results, it is suggested that there should be a practical sizing systems for figure skating wear, which uses common size code, measurements definition and size interval.
Verfremdung Effekt(V-Effekt) in Korean, Chinese, and Japanese Traditional Play Costumes - Focusing on masked drama, Beijing opera, and Kabuki -
Lee, Mi-Sook ; Yang, You-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 14~27
The purpose of this study is to analyze how the aesthetic characteristics of Brecht's V-Effekt is visually expressed of the costume in the Traditional Play of Korea, China and Japan. The method and the contents of the study were to refer to the antecedent studies and the related documents to peruse the characteristics of the traditional plays of the East and West, the origin and the concept of Brecht's Verfremdung and considered the relation of Brecht's V-Effekt and the Oriental plays, and then the researcher derived the aesthetic properties of Brecht's V-Effekt. This study analyzed how those qualities of the aesthetic characteristics on the V-Effekt are manifested on the stage costumes of Korean mask, Beijing opera and Kabuki. The aesthetic qualities of Brecht's V-Effekt are classified into symbolism, grotesque disposition, character of sing and dance, comicality. The symbolism in the traditional play costumes of the three nations is shown in the colors of the masks in Korean and the tone of the colors on the costumes and the make-up in Beijing opera and Kabuki. While the properties of bizarrerie and deformation coexist in masque and Beijing opera costumes in terms of grotesque disposition, Kabuki strongly displays bizarre grotesquerie. The character of sing and dance is visually expressed through the transformation of sleeves on the three nation's traditional play costumes; Masque on the Hansam and Chengsam, Beijing opera on the Water sleeves and Kabuki on Hurisode. The comic aspection is expressed in a humorous and comical way through the distortion and transformation of forms in Masque and Beijing opera but it cannot be seen in Kabuki costume. The study as above will form the aesthetic properties of the Oriental traditional play costumes and also it will contribute to establishing the identity of Korean mask costumes.
A Study of the Differing Images of Wearers according to Differences of Chroma Contrast Coloration and Stripe Patterns
Moon, Ju-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 28~42
A purpose of this study is to 6nd out how the casual and formal style clothes of stripe pattern giving variety by pattern direction, pattern width, and contrast coloration have an effect on image of wearers. For this, 192 stimuli were made and 1200 testee evaluated them using semantic differential scale. As a result, five image dimensions were drawn as a factor of attractiveness, gracefulness, activeness, visibility, and tenderness. Unlike the value contrast previously researched, it showed that chroma contrast coloration which was interacted with a color tone contrast coloration had an effect on all the 5 image dimensions. This result was recognized as significant clothes dues in evaluating the image of stripe wearers. Besides, clothing style, stripe pattern, and contrast coloration were made clear as an efficient parameter in image presentation of clothing wearers.
The Sensation Seeking Tendency and the Fashion Exploratory Behavior according to the Difference Age
Hong, Keum-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 43~55
To pursue youth and agelessness can be regarded as a global trend today. The younger a woman recognizes herself to be, the more sensation seeking tendency and the more active fashion exploratory behavior of younger generation she would show. This study attempted to empirically examine the relationship between sensation seeking behavior and fashion exploratory behavior according to the difference age in women in their 30's to 50s'. After the survey, a total of 480 questionnaires was used for data analysis. The results of this study are as follows, 1. It was found that there was a very high correlation among cognitive ages, and the lower cognitive age a woman had, the higher difference age she showed. 2. Sensation seeking tendency of adult women was shown in two factors of change seeking and artistic sensation seeking, and these factors accounted for 73.99% of the total variances. Fashion exploratory behavior had 4 factors such as fashion leadership, behavior of hedonic shopping, behavior of clothing communication and behavior of clothing purchase with taking a risk, and these four factors accounted for 75.87% of the total variances. 3. The higher difference age and the higher tendency of sensation seeking an adult woman had, the higher fashion exploratory behavior was shown, and the higher the difference age, the higher tendency of change seeking and artistic sensation seeking.
Types and Characteristics of Costume Used for Shamanistic Events in Jeju Region
Jang, Hyun-Joo ; Park, Noon-Seol-Mi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 56~75
Jeju island is located in far from main land and has very harsh environment that has formed an unique clothing style as well. In addition, the popular belief has been developed with originality even their clothing. Therefore, this study is concerned with costumes worn for various ritual events and to analyze their features in Jeju. The shamanism served 18,000 gods are composed to 12 different types of the events for wealth, safety, heath, sadness or thanks. The costumes worn by officiating priests or 'Simbang(shaman)' depend on the occasion of an event, and they are different for male and female performers. The styles of costumes for religious service can be divided into 7 types: Regulation dress(Jebok), Korean full-dress attire(Dopo), Official uniform(Danryung), Military uniform(Gunbok), Formal dress (Durumagi), Casual wears and Special costumes. The costumes for religion events are not various and splendid as compare with another province in Jeju. Because, when simbang expired, their clothings had been burned according to custom. However, It is important materials for us to know the clothing of time. We should keep studing that costume more as a valuable culture.
A Study of Gwa-du (裹肚) in the Joseon Dynasty
Song, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 76~90
Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.
A Study of the Hybrid Characteristics of Make-up - Focusing on Vogue Magazine -
Lee, Youn-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 91~100
In the rapid development of science, technology, information, cultural industry during the 21st century, hybridity is consistently shown in which different techniques, systems, and sorts in society, industry, culture, and art are combined. The purpose of this study is to analyze the formative characteristics of hybrid make-up that is shown in the field of make-up as a practical art reflecting society and culture of a specific period, to understand the tendencies of modern make-up, and to present data for predicting changes in the future. According to the results of this study, the hybrid characteristics of make-up indicate as follows. First, hybrid make-up at a timely aspect in which senses transcending times by mixed expression of traditional classicism and modernism coexist and mingled, Characteristics of hybrid make-up at a local aspect are shown in one make-up by expressing modern tendencies that break from homogeneity, uniformity, and concentration as interests in other cultures and borrowing them in modern images. Also in modern period, characteristics of hybrid make-up at a cultural aspect are shown by mixed expression of conflicting cultural factors such as modern beauty of cutting-edge technology, female & male, and elegance & activeness in one makeup. Within the multiplex, modern social system in this period of cutting-edge technology, "tendency of hybrid design" as a social, cultural phenomenon is shown to be a complex, new designing tendency due to mixture and deconstruction of various genres. Hybrid make-up, seeking diversification and open-mindedness, is predicted to be consistently developed owing to infinite materials of design, being expected to be stronger and newer in the future.
Expression Methods and Compositions of Peony Patterns in Chinese Textiles
Qiao, Dan ; Lee, Eun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 101~116
In this study, the subjects are the expression methods and compositions of peony patterns in Chinese textiles. This study represents the peony patterns which are from Tang Dynasty to the Qing Dynasty, the research subjects are the peony patterns in fabric, except the peony patterns which are expressed by gold foil, embroidery and kesi. The objects of this study are 72 pieces of peony patterns. We sketched the configuration details of peony patterns through the Illustrator program. Analyze and classify the configuration accurately. Based on the 72 pieces of peony patterns, expression methods and compositions of the peony pattern are as following, firstly, we classified peony patterns into three categories, based on expression methods, as realistic shape, pattern shape and shape. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of realistic shape 42 pieces(58.3%), pattern shape 25 pieces(34.7%), and shape 5 pieces(7.0%). Secondly, in the realistic shape peony, the most of pattern has petal accumulate as grape- shaped. This type is found in almost every Dynasty and was used regularly in the eras of Song and Ming Dynasty. In the era of Ming Dynasty, by using petals like the curly mushroom, Yeongji(靈芝), the pattern of symbolizing longevity was habitually used. The U-shaped flower pattern (type E) and the pattern of emphasizing the veins of petals are found only in the remains of the era of Qing Dynasty. Thirdly, in the pattern shaped peony, the most of pattern has some petals which are separated(type C). Fourthly, we classified peony patterns into four categories, based on compositions, as individual branch form, floral branch form, cluster branch form and floral nest form. Among these 72 fabric relics, there most of individual branch form 33 pieces(45.8%), floral branch form 18 pieces(25.0%), cluster branch form 13 pieces(18.1%), floral nest form 8 pieces(11.1%).
Formative Principles of Modernist Architectural Modes and their Application to Modern Fashion Design
Lee, Shin-Young ; Suh, Seung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 117~134
The multilateral attempt for present applications of art school of thought and expression is leading modern fashion as a chapter of various artistic expression. In fashion, historic art thinking which predominated the period are source of optional inspiration not simply being generated, culminated and disappear but layout principles which can reemerge as periodical needs. In other words, the past styles are the source of inspiration of new trend of the present time and will serve as the text that give birth to yet another trend. In this study, I conducted the research on the layout principles of Modernism Architecture in aspects of pure visibility and the layout characteristics. And I analyzed cases of modern fashion which were appling architectural layout principles in the view point of formal construction dimension. As the result, the layout principles of Modernism Architecture have the characteristics of diagram linearity, geometric planarity and exclusive closing. And I was applying the architectural layout principles of Modernism to fashion. The layout principles of Modernism Architecture have the tendency of lacking history types, abstract plane partition and reductionism purity in fashion. The meaning of this study is follows: The characteristics of art school of thought are given shape by appling & analysing the architectural layout principles of historical art school of thought to modern fashion in the view point of formal construction dimension. The applied possibility of historical art school of thought as the source of inspiration about the fashion design is extended.
An Inquiry into the Types of Ceremonial Costume Worn for the Performance of Sejong Hoi-ryeyeon
Baik, Young-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 1, 2010, Pages 135~144
This study is on the reproduction of King Sejong's costume presented in
at the National Classical Music Institute in the late of 2008. The performance was presented focusing on the idea of ceremonial music of hoi-ryeyeon produced in the reign of king(1433). The reproduction of King Sejong's costume was undertaken to keep pace with the times and to pay due regard to the performance costume. The implications of the study are as follows. King Sejong's Hoi-ryeyeon ceremonial costume is a royal robe(gonryongpo), the best one of king's clothing. The basic type of gonryongpo is that of fastening four yongbos to danryoung. The type of gonryongpo is, therefore, made with reference to unearthed articles and portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The yongbo is larger one than the late period of the Yi dynasty in the light of portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The supporting type of gonryongpo is that of gonryongpo, dapho, and chulrik, king's dress granted by Myeong dynasty. In the late period jikryeong was used as supporting dress and fixed to be lining and included jikryeong. Therefore the order of supporting dress was jikryeong, dapho and chulrik and was reproduced with reference to unearthed articles in the early Yi dynasty, as did the small piece of crown, belt and shoes.