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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 60, Issue 10 - Dec 2010
Volume 60, Issue 9 - Nov 2010
Volume 60, Issue 8 - Sep 2010
Volume 60, Issue 7 - Aug 2010
Volume 60, Issue 6 - Jul 2010
Volume 60, Issue 5 - Jun 2010
Volume 60, Issue 4 - May 2010
Volume 60, Issue 3 - Mar 2010
Volume 60, Issue 2 - Feb 2010
Volume 60, Issue 1 - Jan 2010
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Formative Aesthetics and Modern Application of Traditional Korean Knots
Kim, Bo-Young ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 1~15
A Korean knot is one of the ornamental elements that our ancestors used intimately in their daily lives, and the diverse forms and structural features of the Korean knot have sufficient creative and aesthetic value for it to be recognized as one of beautiful products that was relished by individuals of the times. Starting from two strands, Korean knots make unique forms as they are overlapped or plaited, crossing each other in many ways. The forms of Korean knots were given names such as "nabi maedeup"(butterfly knots) and "gukwa maedeup" (chrysanthemum knots), in reference to things in the surrounding environment that were perceived as being similar in their appearance. It is considered that with their unique structure, such Korean knots may provide a good motif for creative design. As well, it is believed that combining the traditional beauty of Korean knots with a contemporary sensibility will lead to the creation of truly forward-looking design. Against this backdrop, this study aims to inquire into and analyze the formative characteristics and aesthetics of Korean knots, with an eye to their use in future design. In addition, it aims to help to put such historical knotting practices into practical and functional use in the future, through a study of previous uses of historical knotting practices with a modern sensibility. It is thus expected that this work will contribute to the inheriting and development of traditional culture, and ultimately to enhancing the status of Korean design in the world.
An Analysis of Trend and Design Characteristics on the Korea Men's Business Casual
Kim, Cho-Long ; Yum, Hae-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 16~27
Business Casual has been launched because of 'Friday Wear' in the 1990s and in Korea, the business casual has been settled under the influence of the five-day work week. The idea of business casual is that 'Business' and 'Casual wear' are combined. It is the attire that people should wear the jacket for formality and people can wear both on or off duty. As a result of the analysis, based on this, of the characteristics of men's business casual appeared in Seoul collections from 2009 till now, they can be classified in 'Classic & Traditional business casual', 'Modern business casual', 'Natural business casual', 'Feminine business casual' and 'Sporty business casual'. As a result of the analysis of the design characteristics of the Korean men's business casual and the trend, based on the content of the analysis of Seoul Collection, 'Classical Classic & the Traditional', 'Modern of the Contemporary design', 'Natural of the Natural design' and 'the Sporty business casual of the Separate Coordination' including jeans, have presented themselves. Also, as a result of the analysis of Korean business men's business casual according to the classification of the design characteristics in Chapter III, 'Classic & Traditional business casual' account for the majority and then 'Sporty', 'Modern' and 'Natural business casual' account for the rest in order. 'Feminine business casual' hasn't presented itself. As a result of the comparative analysis of the design characteristics in Chapter III & IV, Korean business men's business casual has been concentrated on 'Classical & Traditional' and the design characteristics have not appeared in variety. There has been no such audacious attempt, and items, the characteristics of coordination, colors and materials are not in variety compared to the collection. Meanwhile, as a result of the subsistent characteristics of Koran business men's business casual, the characteristics of business men's business casual can be said to represent themselves in "Separate Coordination with the previous items of formal suits".
A Study of Modern Men's Formal Wear Patterns and Sewing Technique
Lim, Hyun-Joo ; Kim, Jung-Hee ; Cho, Hyo-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 28~46
Variety and individuality are characteristic of consumer in modern society. For the necessity of new designed men's formal suit is on the rise with advance of party culture and change of wedding style. In addition to growing numbers of Korean grooms are getting more interested in make themselves well-groomed on the wedding ceremony. The purpose of this study is to develop the men's formal suit pattern for right fit and better style for Korean grooms. In order to find out how to modify their fit, comparison among the existing patterns was necessary. In this study we proposed new patterns of men's formal suit, a morning coat, a tail coat, tuxedoes, director's suit, three-peaces suit, navy blazer. Considering the results of this study, developed patterns were altered to fit better and to smarter. They were well graded in waistline position, shoulder shape, back princess line shape. Also they were best to move around sleeve and bodice. And the developed patterns were altered to make armhole narrower to make bodice length shorter, to make bodice slimmer. The researcher's pattern's were made up into garments using wool 100%, silk 100%. According to verify the improvements and grade better in both appearance and comport, it will be to take the lead men's formal dress culture and expand the base of popular consume for men's formal wear.
Design Ideas and Characteristics of Viktor & Rolf
Kim, Ji-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 47~64
This study was to define the factors of inspiration and expression methods of Viktor & Rolf known for distinctive works in order to find the ways of creative fashion designing. For the research method, the literature reviews were done by designer's books, collection reviews, and related articles. To find the ideas of design inspiration, interview data with Viktor & Rolf were used. The results of this study were as follows. Their conceptional attitude and the fashion shows like performance indicated that the designer's introspection became the origin of the concept and the ideas expanded the fields of expression. The expression of surrealistic fantasy was done by free imagination and daydreams, which was appeared as fantastical world beyond the everyday life. The expression of paradox and contrast overcame stereotype views with inversion, paradox, and ironical expression. The distortion of shape and the extreme exaggeration by overlap and repetition had a intention that magnity the miserable self-images on purpose, which had started from the debut and appeared ever after on collections and which sought the practicality, infinity exceeding the standard of ideal beauty. The harmony between classicism and avant-guard originated from the insights of tradition demonstrated the wits of designers showing the unique ideas with the base of classics.
Fashion Accessories Designed from Recycled Fabric Remnants
Kim, Chan-Ju ; Ro, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 65~79
Each season, many clothing companies dump small pieces of fabrics left over from making samples. Since fabrics do not decompose easily, this results in environmental pollution. This research was done to discover effective ways to reuse these fabric remnants. As most of these remnants were not large enough for making clothes, fashion accessories was chosen as the design object. Four steps of design development process followed: information research & analysis, prototype design & sample making, market testing, final design decision. After market research and trend analysis, four neck decoration wear -- scarf & muffler(SM). collar & cape(CC), vest & top(VT), and necklace(NE) -- were selected as final product types. 45 designs arose, and 120 items with variations in fabric materials and colors were produced as samples. The three main themes (multiple. reversible, cross) were applied throughout all of the design items. Samples were evaluated from the reactions of the consumers through a 10-day sale at a retail store. Based on the sales record and customers' opinions, five designs from each of the product types SM, CC, and VT were picked out as final designs. In conclusion, fashion accessories turned out to be a more appropriate item to reuse fabric remnants from clothing companies than clothes were, because they necessitate small fabric size and the limitation in fabrics could be compensated with creative design ideas.
Development of Cultural Products using Quilting Technique - Focused on the colored tread quilting technique -
Oh, Ga-Young ; Kim, Jong-Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 80~87
The purpose of this study is to develop cultural products containing Korean beauty with modern sense by applying quilting with dyed threat among Korean traditional quilting works. Quilting with dyed thread using various colored thread expresses curve, straight and oblique lines harmoniously, is mainly used to make household goods such as a pouch, a spectacle case and a quilting pocket and a circular pattern, a cross pattern and a geometric pattern are shown in this kind of quilting. As for sewing method, half backstitch and full backstitch are used, and products made by this method are pouches stuffing pads in cotton or silk and quilting it finely to make patterns with various colored threads of stuffing cotton between linings and spectacle cases, a packet of needles and case of spoon and chopsticks which give various feelings according to arrangement of colors. Design of cultural products by applying the beauty of curves of hanbok, sleave-seam of jeogori, trimming line of dangeui. We expect that various cultural products with Korean traditional beauty and modern convenience will be developed continually by introducing the artistic strength of quilting with dyed thread to practical life.
A Study on Modifiable Design in Knit Fashion
Yoon, Jeong-A ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 88~99
The purpose of this study is to express visual and functional diversity through modifiable design, and to suggest a methodological model. With this view, this study was aimed to departmentalize the case of knitwear in modifiable design of clothes and propose the possibility of variable knit fashion through make the most of knit's characteristics. Four wearable physical clothes using the most of flexible knits' characteristics were made for this study based on the modifiable design on the expressive tendency and analysis of plasticity. The following results were obtained. First, as modifiable knit design can create effects of several dresses in visual aspect and functional aspect, so it has practicality and functionality. Because modifiable clothes required wearer's participation, this have amusement that give enjoyment and freshness to wearer. Second, in mode of wearing, flexibility of knit is suitable character to open & close and change of wearing position. In manipulation, a prearranged plan for line of clothes and good choice of subsidiary materials are important. Third, the characteristics of knits allow using and mixing with different pattern and materials on the two sides of the same cloths except for the some of the parts. Moreover, there is no unraveled thread on the part of knits margin against woven, so it has the broad applicable range for the changeable design. Finally, the form and function, a prearranged plan for modifiable design of clothes have all contributed in creating new structure and patterns in design.
A Study of Patterns of Women's Jackets (Jeogori) in Modern Korea
An, Hyun-Joo ; Cho, Woo-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 100~117
This thesis has three main purposes: first, will show kinds, patterns, types, expression techniques of modern korean women's trimmings by every ten years. Second, it is to trace the effect of each decade on women's Hanbok trimming designs. Third, it will point out factors. that caused the change of modern Korean women's Hanbok trimming design patterns. Henceforth, there comes the result of the research and analysis. Trimming design patterns of modern women's Hanbok can be divided into three categories temporally: The first period of from 1910s to the first half of 1950s saw that design patterns did not changed much from traditional ones. It is because there were many catastrophes such as the invasion of Japanese Empire and Korean War. The compound design had expressed people's wish to earn many sons and babies at the end of Joseon Dynasty. But it turned to wishing luck for individuals affected by individualism and liberalism imported from the west. Realistic designs are the most frequently used and the least lines made up patterns. The second period of from the latter half of 1950s to 1970s saw that women wore their Jeogories and Chimas as suits. Screen printing technique enabled for various design patterns to come out. And the development of textile industry introduced various expression techniques such as making lace, meshing, flocking, burn-out etc cetera. The third period of 1980s saw that Hanbok became a kind of luxurious clothe as people's living standard rose. Hanbok again came into the spotlight, Hanbok designers came forward and their individualities are respected. The characteristic expression technique of grey-dying and geometric design patterns are more frequently used for the simple and modern beauty.
Iconological Interpretation of Makeup depicted in Alexander McQueen's Collection
Kim, Hyun-Mi ; Kim, Sook-Hyun ; Jang, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 118~132
The purpose of the research is to develop a systematic model to interpret makeup signs through a case analysis of makeup shown in Alexander McQueen's ready-to-wear collections from 2001 to 2010 and to prove an importance of makeup as a communication medium to deliver social and cultural values. This research employed Panofsky's Iconology theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) pre-iconographical description, (2) iconographical analysis, and (3) iconological interpretation. Alexander McQueen's makeup was analyzed with the three steps in order. As a result of the pre-iconographical description step, makeup styles (icons) in his collections are identified which are Egyptian style, Gothic style, Androgynous style, Victorian style, Fantasia style, and Futuristic variant style. The iconographical analysis step identified that the elements used in his makeup are inspired by his identity and life. In the final step of iconological interpretation, the researcher concluded that Alexander McQueen's makeup expresses social, cultural, and aesthetical value of the time period when the collection was created. His makeup shows postmodernism that accepts a diversity of views (the pluralism) and humanism, romantic narcissism that is his personality trait, and avant-garde that pursues a new, creative aesthetics.
A Study on the Abstraction of the Human Body in Contemporary Dance Costumes - Focusing on Oscar Schlemer's Costume Theory -
Han, Kyeng-Ha ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 133~145
The study used four basic formats classified based on the four principles on costumes discussed in the paper 'Human Beings and Arts Phenomena' by Oskar Schlemmer who studied the relationships between stage space and the human body as an analysis tool with regard to analyses on the abstraction of human body in contemporary dance costume. Abstraction of human body expressed in costume for contemporary dance is as follows: Expansions caused by unclear boundary between spaces and costumes, and the principles of three-dimensional abstract spaces based on a geometric cube change heads, trunks, arms and legs to achieve expansions. Similar mechanical shape is a type of shape made in a succession of functional principles of human body in relationships with spaces. As mechanical mechanism is added to the geometric transformation of a specific part of human body, mechanicalness is contained in it. Motion organisms are geometric simplification of moving traces in a space based on conversion into mechanical organisms based on principles of motion, and as mechanical rotation, consecutive speed caused by refraction and directionality are suggested, mobility is achieved. Immaterial shape is based on change into a metaphysical form, and it is converted into animals, plants or a third life that symbolize body parts. It has metaphysical significance in each body part and extends sensibility. As a result of the study, development into abstract succession and a techno art mode has been confirmed. Combination of geometric cubic figures with the organic human body and configuration of the human body pursued by Oskar Schlemmer's geometric abstraction through the proactive accommodation of mechanical aesthetics has been succeeded and expressed in the contemporary dance costumes.
Clothing Shopping Orientation and Service Perception of Online Mall according to Mongolian's Internet Lifestyle
Sodchimeg, Bazardorj ; Kim, Yong-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 146~162
The purposes were to identify clothing shopping orientation and service perception of online shopping mall according to Mongolian's internet lifestyle. A questionnaire developed by researchers was used and 310 Mongolian in 20's were the subjects. Survey was done during Jan. and Feb. 2010. Most Mongolian used internet at home or office and had used internet less than one year. Half of Mongolian visited online shopping mall less than 5 times during last year. Most Mongolian did not buy any fashion items at online mall but had higher intention to shop at online mall. Factors of Mongolian's internet lifestyle were information search, shopping pursuit, and utilizing ability and segmented into internet heavy users and light users. Factors of fashion shopping orientation were individuality & brands, fashion, diversity, economy, pleasure, and efficiency and factors of online shopping mall service were order & delivery and products. Internet heavy users were found more frequently among married men with high income, experienced online shopping more, showed higher fashion shopping orientation, and pursued online shopping mall service more. Internet light users were among unmarried women with low income, not experienced online shopping, showed lower fashion shopping orientation, and pursued online shopping mall service less.
The Analysis of Types and Historical Review of False Sleeves
Kwon, Soo-Hyun ; Kang, Soon-Che ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 10, 2010, Pages 163~179
False sleeves are 'the sleeves that are attached to clothes but exist just as a part without any function to put arms in them.' They are different from sleeves to put arms in them and are to follow the trend or a way of wearing clothes. They are mostly found in medieval Europe's decorative sleeves named 'Hanging sleeves', but they are also found in Eastern region, too. They are found in sleeves that attached women's headgear in East and Middle Asia, and also in high-class male caftan in Ottoman Turk in the 16th and 17th century. False sleeves can be divided into two kinds by shapes. The first ones are the decorative sleeves of which trunk-shaped sleeves hang around the whole or part of the arm hole but have no function to put arms in them; this is called as 'sleeve-shaped False sleeves'. These sleeves are found in women's headgear in medieval Europe, Ottoman Turk, and East and Middle Asia. False sleeves in Europe and Ottoman Turk played a role in showing wealth and power while those in East and Middle Asia had a great role in highlighting the costume's decorative effect. The second ones are the sleeves hanging down from the arms by attaching long cloth to the arm hole, in design; these are named as 'cape-shaped False sleeves.' This style is found only in medieval Europe, and presumably, these cape-shaped false sleeves may have played a role in boasting of one's wealth and power.