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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 60, Issue 10 - Dec 2010
Volume 60, Issue 9 - Nov 2010
Volume 60, Issue 8 - Sep 2010
Volume 60, Issue 7 - Aug 2010
Volume 60, Issue 6 - Jul 2010
Volume 60, Issue 5 - Jun 2010
Volume 60, Issue 4 - May 2010
Volume 60, Issue 3 - Mar 2010
Volume 60, Issue 2 - Feb 2010
Volume 60, Issue 1 - Jan 2010
Selecting the target year
A Study of Hip-hop Fashion Trends -Focusing on the Trends Since 2000-
Kim, Yoon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 1~19
The purpose of this research is to examine the rise of hip-hop culture and its characteristics which have been established as a part of popular culture amid other subcultures and to examine the overall concept of hip-hop fashion which has been developing since its rise in the 1970s and particularly to examine the hip-hop after the turn of the new century when it has gone through several iterations and changes while simultaneously accommodating different trends and reflecting a highly diverse larger culture. The research methodology is a literature-based research that uses classification and analysis based on the preceding research including related books and dissertations and, considering that this research focuses on the characteristics of hip-hop from the 2000s to the present, mainstream news media such as newspapers and magazines around New York images of famous hip-hop culture & stores websites were used in this research. The most characteristic hip-hop fashions since the 2000s examined by this research comprise prep-hop, slim formal suits, skurban, hip-hop Goth, and hip-hop Tatto. First, prep-hop is a mixed match of a preppy look with latest hip-hop sentiments and hip-hop styles. Second, there are slim formal suits that reflect a change of trends that strongly show changes of hip-hop fashion consumers who have been following sports stars' fashions. Third, skurban is a hip-hop fashion combined with the look of skaters. Fourth, hip-hop Goth is what emphasizes strong Goth images such as grunge, skull, and devil in hip-hop fashions based on vintage fashion. Fifth, hip-hop Tatto style designs have appeared in diverse items such as trendy clothes and accessories that were most popular since the 2000s. Hip-hop fashion since the 2000s up to the present is beginning to be integrated with diverse other cultures and its most prominent characteristics is a change into slimmer silhouette.
A Study on the Naturalized Costume Terminologies Appearing in Korean Newspapers and Magazines, from the Age of Enlightenment to the Time of Independence(1876-1945)
Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 20~34
This study is intended to suggest the characteristic of dress and its ornament introduced in terms of naturalized words on Korean newspapers and magazines published from the age of enlightenment to the Independence(1876-1945). First of all, naturalized words in that period(1876-1945) can be classified into words originated in Japanese, words originated in western countries and borrowed words came from Japan. Borrowed words which came from Japan are almost related to Japan's traditional dress like Gudu, Gabang, Kimono, Nemaki, Ebijahagama, Hagama, Sirusibanden, Doriachi, Dombi, Sarumada, Sseumeeri, Doriachi, and Mombbe. Borrowed words originated in western countries are like Frock coat, Bonnet, Necktie, Chapeau, Scotch, Homespun, Chamois, Skirt, Spring Coat, Ribbon, Silk hat, Panama hat, Handbag, Pajama, Shawl, Apron, Cuffs, Pocket, Handkerchief, Morning coat, Combination-one piece, Rain Coat, Burberry, and Permanent, etc. Borrowed words came from Japan is Lasa[raxa], jokki[jaket], Les[lace], Veludo[velvet], Bbanss[pants], Oba[overcoat], Meliyas[medias], Shass[shirt], Manto[manteau], and Sebiro[civil clothes]. As we can see from the result of research, borrowed words from the age of enlightenment to the Independence was because of its special social situation, Japanese imperialism, they are divided into real western words and words came from Japan or Japanese. In terms of items, a lot of words related to men's suit and women's dress, accessory, etc. It confirms that men's dress was westernized in the whole part compared to partially westernized women's one. A lot of words used at that period are now adapted to Korean language and became the foundation of words used in the current dress and its ornament area.
Humors in Female Costumes Depicted in Genre Paintings in the Late Joseon Dynasty
Kwon, Ha-Jin ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 35~50
In this dissertation, the analysis of the study of female customs from late Joseon Dynasty and their genre painting to research humors and its aesthetic senses in that certain era. The purpose of the genre paintings is to look at general populations in an objective point of view and endeavor better value of public life style to embody clear understandings of humanity. The artists such as Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed their arts based on reasonable reality with sarcastic but humorous and creative ways to criticize the society's problems with clear statements. Therefore, the formative characters are realism, exaggeration and coloring of the whole arts that represents as innovative and original genre of it's time. Hong-Do Kim and Youn-Bok Shin expressed the women in society as open minded with versatile and refined looks in their paintings as the reality was repressed and closed mind for women figures in late Joseon Dynasty. The female customs in the paintings has both suppression and expression in their dresses and exaggerated shapes of accessories and the use of color were also found. All of these elements has the aesthetic values of satirized eroticism, the hint of next evolution of the late Joseon Era under the conservative disposition of social characters and freedom of expression of playfulness. These elements were new developments and a step forward of female 'sex' and expression of satirized eroticism. The exaggerated and distorted forms and accessories demonstrates unbalanced and asymmetrical elements in humorous characters and they include spontaneity. Also, using the five traditional color schemes of Korean art displays humor in playfulness of an art with splendid and purity, duality of positiveness and artless, smart and elegance looks.
Strategies for the Development of Cultural Product Design for the Promotion of Cultural Tourism Festivals(II) -Focusing on the Utilization of Local Cultural Resources-
Chung, Kyung-Hee ; Lee, Mi-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 51~67
The purpose of this study was to develop the high value-added cultural product design with local cultural resources, and to contribute to promoting cultural tourism festivals. To accomplish this study, first, a preliminary survey is carried out the investigation of cultural product stores and visitors' questionnaire survey. Next, based on these survey and prior study, this study established the development direction and concept of fashion cultural products and to developed fashion cultural products using local cultural resources. Adobe Photoshop 6.0, and Adobe Illustrator CS Program were used for the standardization of patterns, textile design and illustration. The results of this study were as follows; First, based on preliminary research results, the problems of the design of cultural tourism festival products were derived. As one solution to solve this problem, this study established the development direction and concept of fashion cultural products to develop fashion cultural products. The concept of the Andong Maskdance Festival was 'Tribal-Holic'; the Boryeong Mud Festival, 'Get away form it all'; the Gangjin Celadon Festival, 'Timeless Memories'; the Jinju Namgang Yudeung Festival, 'Lighting up the River'; the Chungju World Martial Arts Festival, 'Next Ergonomics Gym'; and the Muju Firefly Festival, 'Eco-Purity'. Second, based on the desired items of festival organizers and the survey of visitor's preference for cultural products, 4 items were selected by festival type. Then a total of 96 designs of 4 kinds each were developed using logos or characters, traditional patterns, special products, symbolizing region, or festival as a motif. Third, the strategy for development of cultural products design for promotion of cultural tourism festivals were 'Place identity design strategy', 'Market oriented design strategy', 'Buyer-Based pricing strategy', 'Regional brand strategy', and 'Distribution networks expansion strategy'.
Analysis of Color and Color Differences of Dyed Articles According to the Traditional Techniques of Dyeing Buddhist Priests' Robes
Kim, Chong-Tai ; Hwang, Choon-Sup ; Park, Mee-Gee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 68~80
In order to get the information needed for the preservation and application of Korean traditional dyeing techniques to modern textiles products, the present study analyzed the color and color differences of dyed goods according to the contents of fabrics and the traditional techniques of dyeing the Buddhist priests' robes. A spectrophotometer was used to measure the differences in achromatic color according to dyeing techniques, dyestuff, kinds of dyed fabrics, and after-treatment methods. Through experiments based on the traditional dyeing techniques used by Korean Buddhist priests, a total of 144 pieces of dyed fabrics were made and all the colors of those 144 pieces were analyzed. Among three dyeing techniques tested; (1) dyeing with a dye-bath made of ink stick that was ground down with water, (2) dyeing with a dye-bath made by shaking a bag containing ink powder in water, and (3) dyeing with a dye-bath made by rubbing a boiled ink stick on a fabric, dyeing with a dye-bath made of ink stick that was ground down with water was shown to be the best technique in terms of coloring. For fabrics, ramie was the best of all three techniques in terms of making achromatic color. Starching and rubbing was the most effective after-treatment method used on both fabrics dyed with a grounded ink stick and on fabrics dyed by rubbing a boiled ink stick on them. As a whole, yangyeonmook, made from minerals' soot, is better than songyeonmook, which is made by burning old pine trees or yooyeonmook, which is made by burning oils from seeds. Therefore, yangyeonmook could help to preserve and utilize the traditional dyeing techniques of Korea in a practical way in modern life.
A Study of Cultural Power and Fashion in the Modern and Post Modern Eras
Ko, Youn-Jung ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 81~98
This study aims to examine the subjects of cultural power of the modernism and post modernism eras, and analyze how the change of power and subjects influenced fashion throughout the history from the microscopic perspective, and thus to explain the social relationship of the fashion phenomenon. The study findings can be summarized as follows. First, as the post modernism era which was being formed centering around Europe that was pursuing Haute Couture and formal masculine suits ended and the post modernism era started, America became the center of the world power, and the American equalitarianism and growing wealth among the general public spread over the world, and as a result, the ready-made clothes were propagated over the world, and various subcultures came to have multi-national tendency in the New Media society. Second, in the modernism era, the high class, whites, males, and the pre-existing powerful class were the subjects of cultural power. Although this changed in the post modernism era, as some of power moved from the high class to the middle class, the economically affluent general public, still the western world, males, and whites held the center of power. However, later, females, youths, the third world nations, and so on emerged as minor power, and when the New Media society started, the structure developed so that everyone can share cultural power.
A Study on the Characteristics of the Make-up on Corpses Depending on the Cause of Death in the American Drama CSI
Kim, Yu-Kyoung ; Oh, In-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 99~113
The corpse make-up depending on the cause of death shown in CSI is the only evidence to solve a case, and shows the characteristics of the unique make-up on the corpse, according to the causes of death. There are many types of death causes such as strangulation, manslaughter, assassination and shooting, of which the strangulation is caused by strangling the neck with the hands or using a weapon and has characteristics of showing other external wounds with purple spots appearing on the body after death. This is a presentation of the corpse with a face of white, and the purple spots bruised on the neck. Manslaughter shows deep wounds caused by a stab or laceration using a weapon, and the material feeling of the wound that makes new skin tissue, is realistically presented with make-up of gooey blood. Assassination can be thought as manslaughter in disguise as an accidental death, which the causes can be due to electrocution, suffocation from oxygen deficiency and from excessive monoxide. The make-up is presented by realistically showing the surrounding fragments of the bullet shell, the blood running down, the size of the hole in the body made from the bullet, and shows the broken skin tissues. The shape of the bullet wound can be presented differently based on the body part where the bullet penetrated into, and the part where the bullet shot out through.
Effects of Shopping Orientation on Brand Loyalty and Shopping Satisfaction of Fashion Outlet Consumers
Lee, A-Ram ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 114~129
The purpose of this study were to identify shopping orientation for fashion outlet consumers and its significance in influencing brand loyalty and shopping satisfaction. This study will propose results which help to better understand shopping orientation of fashion outlet consumers. A questionnaire was administered to 326 20s male and female living in Daegu Gyeongbuk during October of 2008. Data were analyzed by using Factor analysis, Reliability analysis, t-test and Regression analysis. The results of the research are as follows: First, The shopping orientation could be into 5 dimensions: pleasure tendency, fashion tendency, name brand tendency, prudence buying tendency, economic tendency. Brand loyalty were factor analyzed resulting three factors such as brand loyalty, brand care and brand knowledge. Brand loyalty factors of brand loyalty and brand knowledge had a positive effect on fashion tendency, name brand tendency. Brand care has a positive effect on name brand tendency and economic tendency. Second, Shopping satisfaction were factor analyzed resulting five factors such as product, store atmosphere, service store reputation, location convenience and price. Outlet product had a positive effect on fashion tendency, name brand tendency, prudence buying tendency and while all other factors showed a positive effect on preferences to follow trends. However, outlet price had a positive effect on only those consumers possessing a economic tendency.
Research on Consumer Recognition of Korean Traditional Costume, Hanbok
Cho, Woo-Hyun ; Kim, Mun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 130~143
Hanbok industry is not based on a consumer-oriented market system, which is related to poor competitiveness in various areas, such as product planning, marketing, and flow of raw materials. The purpose of this paper is to design and conduct an empirical study on important aspects of consumers. experiences and perspectives about Hanbok, and thereby aims to provide much-needed guidance about ways to promote the Hanbok market. Out of 1065 questionnaires distributed, a total of 1039 was returned with responses and used for analyses. The respondent sample included consumers of various background characteristics in their residential areas, age, gender, education levels, and income levels. Cronbach's alpha and a factor analysis were employed for the reliability and the construct validation of the survey instrument. One-way ANOVA associated with post-hoc comparison tests was used to investigate differences across different demographic subgroups of consumers. The results show that consumers generally view Hanbok as one of the formal dresses, worn one or two times per year for traditional events or ceremonies. Consumers tend to show negative opinions about the pricing, and the inconvenience in cleaning and wearing Hanbok. However, consumers think very highly of the aesthetic values, the gracious styles, and the iconic identity of nationalism of Hanbok. This study suggests that Hanbok for modern consumers should be considered as clothing for a ritual, rather than clothing to reconstruct to be fitted to modern daily lives. Hanbok should be promoted as part of up-scaled and differentiated traditional cultures, as clothing that represents and enhances the traditional elegance and beauty unique to the Korean people.
A Study of the Characteristics of Ethnic Fashion by Type
Choi, Hae-Joo ; Oh, Se-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 2, 2010, Pages 144~158
The concept and the typical characteristics of ethnic fashion were studied. 267 fashion designs from pret-
-porter collections in Milan and New York from 2001 S/S to 2005 F/W were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as the following: The major types of ethnic fashion are Africa, American Indian, Japan, India, China, and Inca. Among these types, the first volume is Africa, the second is American Indian and others are Japan, India, China and Inca in order. Ethnic fashion changes in years showed reduction from 2001 to 2004, but much rise in 2005 showed more than 30% from 2001. Much more ethnic fashion designs were presented in S/S seasons than in F/W seasons. Africa ethnic fashion designs were more popular in S/S seasons. India ethnic fashion designs were more popular in F/W seasons. In the comparison of the Milan and New York collection, ethnic fashion designs appeared more in Milan collections than in New York from 2001 to 2003. But ethnic fashion designs appeared more in New York collections than in Milan in the year of 2005.