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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 60, Issue 10 - Dec 2010
Volume 60, Issue 9 - Nov 2010
Volume 60, Issue 8 - Sep 2010
Volume 60, Issue 7 - Aug 2010
Volume 60, Issue 6 - Jul 2010
Volume 60, Issue 5 - Jun 2010
Volume 60, Issue 4 - May 2010
Volume 60, Issue 3 - Mar 2010
Volume 60, Issue 2 - Feb 2010
Volume 60, Issue 1 - Jan 2010
Selecting the target year
The Aesthetics of Official Uniforms, or Kwanbok, and Embroidered Patches, or Hyungbae, and their Modern Applications
Kim, Kyung-Jin ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 1~18
The Aesthetics of Kwanbok and Hyungbae and their Modern Applications Starting from practical purpose, kwanbok worn by government officers were developed in original and unique fashion over long time. In particular, as hyungbae (embroidered patches for kwanbok) that had been used for kwanbok has remained in existence even today, providing inspiration for a variety of design, it is bringing attention to the aesthetic value and importance of kwanbok. Under the circumstances, this study has elicited aesthetics from kwanbok and hyungbae as follows: First, they imply the wish of long life and happiness as a symbol of favorable omen and distinguish one's status according to the shape, color, and pattern. Second, kwanbok and hyungbae reveal our ancestors' naturalistic perspective in art. Third, pleats, slits and shapes in robes reveal practical aesthetics in composition. Fourth, slits in kwanbok create the aesthetics of contrast and harmony of lining and outer cloth. Modern applications of kwanbok is of value as they represent traditions and maintain the original forms, showing the image of Korea in the 21st century. Such efforts mean that they do not only make more beautiful clothes, but also create overall philosophies in life, including personal values.
Symbolism and Psychology of Colors in Painting - Focusing on a Color Comparison between Vincent Van Gogh and Gustav Klimt -
Im, Nu-Ry ; Oh, In-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 19~34
This study aims to examine associationistic psychology and psychological operation associated with each color image, then to study the relation between particular colors used in paintings produced by Gogh and Klimt in different times and these painters' psychology in a bid to explore the meaning and role of psychological operation of colors. The findings of the study indicated that red and blue colors represent mainly negative images, while yellow and orange colors represent mainly positive images and psychologies. Specifically, in the case of Gogh, red expresses anxiety, a negative image, yellow symbolizes passion, a major positive image of emotional liberation, dark and thick green and the green involving blue symbolize negative images, emptiness and despair, and blue represents negative images of internal desire conflicts, and screaming. Also, purple used together with white represents anxiety and depression. In the case of Klimt, red represents negative images of anger toward mother and suppressed energy, yellow, an alternative to gold color, symbolizes the positive image of hope, passion, desire and eroticism, the arrangement of strong gold and orange colors represents a color of psychological healing more than a color of hope. As such, colors used in paintings produced by modern Western painters express the physiological conditions, psychological feeling and emotion in life, at the time when the artists produced such works. It was found that colors are yet another language of expressing emotions, and symbolize the psychologies of the artists, indicating that colors have something to do with the painters' experience and emotional impulses.
An Analysis of the Types of Panoplies in the TV Dramas Yeongaesomun and Taewangsasin-gi - Focusing on the Panoplies of the Goguryeo Dynasty -
Cho, Mi-Suk ; Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 35~50
The purpose of this study was to know how helmet and armor was reinterpreted in historical play by considering general concept and type of old helmet and armor from the aspect of costume history and comparing the helmet and armor types of TV historical plays, Yeongaesomun and Taewangsasingi, whose historical backgrounds were based on the age of Goguryeo. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun was reinterpreted as the one, which is close to historical investigation, by reappearing lamellar armor and jongjangpanju(helmet made of slim, long plate) shown in Goguryeo wall painting. The helmet and armor type shown in Taewangsasingi expresses fantastic helmet and armor by adding fantastic factor regardless of historical investigation. The study result reveals that there are several common characteristic factors between the helmet and armors of two historical plays. First, there was a classification in the display of character and story. The helmet and armor type shown in Yeongaesomun classified color and detail design depending on lamellar armor or character. In Taewangsasingi, the helmet and armor was manufactured depending on character's nature and the chain armors, which are lighter than existing helmet and armors, were usual. Second, they escaped from the historical investigation about traditional helmet and armor. In Yeongaesomun, myeonggwangae(a type of armor), which might be popular, was not expressed and Taewangsasingi is free from an imperative idea of historical investigation by manufacturing helmet and armor referring to that of ancient Rome age. The modern sense was reflected to increase dramatic effect. The helmet and armor of Yeongaesomun provides modern feeling by using stainless steel material and modern color arrangement and that of Taewangsasingi is designed in modern, splendid way as it aimed at game development from the planning step.
A Study of Ritual Costumes and Hairstyles used in the Coming-of-Age Ceremony for Royal Court Ladies in the Late Joseon Dynasty
Kim, Soh-Hyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 51~70
The ritual to change the hairstyle holds the same meaning as the coming of age ceremony. The ceremony was performed throughout three times including choga, jaega, and samga. The garment and hairstyle attuned to the ceremony formalities. Women in the royal family had 'su-siK when they were fully grown up during choga, 'gwang-sik' during Jaega, and 'keun-meo-ri (big hairstyle)' during samga. 'su-sik' is the noblest hairstyle according to social status, which is allowed to be worn only by spouse of king and prince, regardless of adult or not. During jaega, 'gwang-sik' which was 'u-yeo-meo-ri', is made by winding 'darae (wig)' around a jjok-jin-muri (bun) [Jo-jim-meo-ri]? which distinguished the hairstyle of unmarried women, who did not go through a coming of age ceremony yet. Unmarried women maintained a hairstyle which is mostly twisted into one string, but they had 'saeang-meo-ri' when they were prepared for ceremonial costumes. Also, they had 'ga-raemeo-ri' when growing further. keun-meo-ri during samga is an addition of keun-meo-ri chaebal(wig) onto u-yeo-meo-ri. Women in the royal family made geo-du-mi by adding keun-meo-ri, which is formed by twisting wig, and oimyeongbu (noble ladies) and sanggung (court ladies) added a wooden wig called u-yeo-mi. Also, yeoryeong wore ga-ri-ma. In this way, the types of hairstyles were distinguished according to hierarchy. As the coming of age ceremonial dress. Wonsam was worn. During choga. wonsam was worn as a formal dress and during jaega and samga wonsam was worn as a full dress.
Establishment of Western-style Court Dress and its Formal Characteristics in the Meiji Period of Japan
Lee, Kyung-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 71~87
The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.
A Study of the Current State of Cyclist Wear
Kim, Eun-Kyong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 88~105
The purpose of this study is to grasp the actual wearing conditions, inconvenience and problems with cycle wear. To attain this purpose, a questionnaire was completed by direct observation and by interviewing bicyclists. The questionnaire was given to 273 bicyclists. The questionnaire consisted of items that are related to concerns with dressing appropriately and enhancement of physical performance through dress. Following are the results of this study. According to the survey, many of them purchased imported cycle wear rather than national cycle wear, and the satisfaction according with purchase rate was low. Bicyclists were uneasy with finding right size cycle wear especially for women. It turned out that the area of the knee and elbow are mostly the areas that they get hurt while riding. Even though the knee and elbow are the mostly hurt area, bicyclists do not prefer to wear appropriate protector for the knee and elbow to excel in their performance in cycling. In material related questions, lower dissatisfaction was indicated for the lints caused by fraction. Average satisfaction was indicated for the distortion after washing, changes in color, touch of the fabric, matters with static and sweat. With regard to the areas where the bicyclists felt discomfort was highly indicated with lower-body clothing. Discomfort was highly indicated with crotch area when riding long period of time. Also when riding a cycle, discomfort was indicated with the leggings cuffs when it comes upward with riding motion. Most of the bicyclists felt the tight fitting leggings were embarrassing.
Image Evaluation according to the Coloration of Dress Shirts and the Width of Neckties - Focusing on Chinese Female College Students -
Jeong, Su-Jin ; Choi, Su-Koung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 106~116
The purpose of this study was to investigate the image evaluation of chinese female college students according to coloration of dress shirt and necktie and necktie width. The experimental materials developed for this study were a set of stimulus and response scales. The stimuli were 12 color pictures, in which the hue(red, blue), tone(lt-shirt/dk-tie, dk-shirt/lt-tie), and necktie width(narrow, medium, width) were manipulated. The 7-point scale was used for evaluation of image. The subjects of this research were 120 chinese female college students living in Shandong, China. The investigation was carried out at April-May 2009. The data were analyzed by using SPSS program. Analysis methods were ANOVA and Duncan-test. The results of this study were as follows.; The analyses of image according to coloration of dress shirt and necktie and necktie width revealed that the concerned factors are four characteristic dimensions of ability-elegance, youth-attractiveness, appeal, and warmness. Hue showed an independent effect on ability-elegance, appeal, and warmness. Tone showed an independent effect on appeal and warmness. Necktie width showed an independent effect on appeal. In addition, interaction effects of hue and tone on ability-elegance were found. Interaction effects of hue and necktie width on appeal were found. Interaction effects of tone and necktie width on youth-attractiveness were found.
Non-Euclidean Geometrical Characteristics of Hyperspace in Costume
Lee, Yoon-Kyung ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 117~127
In this study, hyperspace is a result of imagination created by means of facts and fiction, represents a transfer to determination and indetermination, and means an extension to an open form. In other words, hyperspace is a high dimensional space expanded to imagination through the combination of the viewpoint on facts in this dimension and fiction. When the 2D plane surface or 3D symmetry is destroyed, or when the frame is twisted or entangled, the non-Euclidean geometry is created eventually. And when the twisting leads to transmutation and the destruction of the form reaches the extreme; this in turn became the twisting like Mbius band. Likewise, the non-Euclidean geometry is co-related to the asymmetry of the Higgs mechanism. When the 'destruction of symmetry' is considered, symmetric theory and asymmetric world can be connected. The asymmetry in turn can maintain balance by arranging the uneven weights at different distances from the shaft. Moreover, at this the concept of the upper, lower, left and right, which was included in the original form, may be crumbled down. The destruction of the symmetry is essential in order to present forecast that coincides with the phenomenon of the real world. Non-Euclidean geometry characteristic is expressed by asymmetry, twists, and deconstruction and its representative characteristic is ambiguity. The boundary between the front, back, upper, lower, inner and outer is unclear, and it is difficult and vague to pinpoint specific location. The design that does not clearly define or determine the direction of wearing costume is indeed the non-oriented design that can be worn without getting restricted by specific direction such as front and back. Non-Euclidean geometry characteristic of hyperspace have been applied to create new shapes through the modification of the substance from traditional clothing of the eastern world to modern fashion. The way of thinking in the 'hyperspace' that used to be expressed in the costumes of the east and the west in the past became the forum for unlimited creation.
A Study of Sportswear Designs Using the Tiger Motif found in Folk Painting
Kim, Weol-Kye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 128~138
This study�s purpose is to contrive the national brand image, developing sportswear design and related-culture by using tiger which represents Korea used to design sportswear�s logo and design. For the method of study, illustrator CS3 was used to design three vests and three sports shirts for both men and women by characterizing tiger image from Korean folk painting tiger. Tiger appears commonly in paintings, folk tales and literature of Korea since ancient times. It was even used as a mascot of Seoul Olympic on 1988. Many global sports companies choose an animal that represents their brand to advertise such as Lacoste, le coq sportif and musingwear, wolsey. This study could provide example design adapting korean traditional patterns, also expects for culture advertising Korean traditional culture and developing designs of Korean fashion companies.
The effect of Independent Tendency of Single Women on Consumption Values and Clothing Benefits
Lee, Mi-Ah ; Rhee, Eun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 60, issue 5, 2010, Pages 139~156
The purpose of this study is to identify the independent tendency of single women, certainly worthy of study in considering their size, their growth, and their purchasing power, and to examine their effects on consumption values and clothing benefits. The data were collected from self-administrated questionnaire with 537 single women in their 20�s and 30�s on May in 2005. Data were analyzed by factor analysis, reliability analysis, K-means cluster, one way ANOVA and chi-square. Factor analysis on independent tendency resulted in three dimensional structures: marriage-independent tendency, physical independence, social independence. Five dimensions of consumption values were identified by factor analysis: conspicuous, pro-environmental. economic, enjoyable, aesthetic values. Five dimensions of clothing benefits were identified by factor analysis: individuality, well-known brand, practicality, price, social recognition pursuit. The respondents were classified to three groups by three factors of independent tendency: high independent group, social-physical independent group, low independent group. There were significant differences among these groups in demographic characteristics, consumption values and clothing benefits.