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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 61, Issue 10 - Dec 2011
Volume 61, Issue 9 - Nov 2011
Volume 61, Issue 8 - Sep 2011
Volume 61, Issue 7 - Aug 2011
Volume 61, Issue 6 - Jul 2011
Volume 61, Issue 5 - Jun 2011
Volume 61, Issue 4 - May 2011
Volume 61, Issue 3 - Mar 2011
Volume 61, Issue 2 - Feb 2011
Volume 61, Issue 1 - Jan 2011
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Representation of Human Body in Antonio Lopez's Fashion Illustration
Lee, Kyung-Ah ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 1~19
The purpose of this study is to pursue the way of human body expression for prospecting of future fashion illustration through research of the methods and meaning expressed in the works of 30 years by Antonio Lopez. The research was conducted by looking into the perception of the body between 1960s and 1980s, when Lopez worked actively, on the basis of the discourse, art and fashion for the femininity and studying the representation method and meaning of the body in his works. Lopez suggested an index of the ideal beauty of the times through the representation of the immature body like a child in the 60s, the glamorous body in the 70s and the exaggerated muscular body in the 80s by predicting the changes of the perception of femininity and ideal beauty. As the result of this research, it is found that Lopez employed the art form for the representation of the body in his works and presented the polysemous implications of the art form in the context of the body expression. In addition, he redefined sexuality by focusing on the code that confronted the conventional women's morals by changing the representation method of the women's pose, and depicted the other's image such as the colored races, departing from the ideal human body based on the white women. Lastly, he deconstructed the human body in various ways, thereby enlarging the concept of the human body in the existing fashion illustration.
A Study on the Design Image of Men's Shirts Expressed in High Fashion
Kim, Hyun-A ; Lee, Hyo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 20~33
This study aims to analyze the expressive aspect of men's shirts through examining the characteristics of men's shirts with the trend of men's clothing well represented and considering the image based on high fashion. As a method of study, I have conducted the theoretical study through the literature data, and the content analysis through photographs from S/S collection in 2005 to F/W collection in 2010. Especially, in the recent men's shirts, the materials of glossy silk, wavering chiffon and jersey tend to appear and various images are represented with the tasteful decoration such as ruffle, pin tuck and embroidery together with pastel color. Thus, the result of this study is as follows: Firstly, the masculine and romantic images are researched as the image emphasizing the beautiful and soft masculine beauty which doesn't lose the masculinity even though they are seasonedwith the feminine elements. Soft masculine beauty is emphasized by using romantic image decoration of frills, beads and pin tuck or silk, jersey and openwork materials etc. Secondly, practical fusion images have been studied as the images emphasizing the freshness with practicality through grafting more than two items onto one shirt. Many designs have appeared representing new shapes by grafting more than two items onto one shirt or obscuring the border line between the items. Thirdly, the avant-garde chic images have been researched as the image emphasizing the chick image through representing unique and odd designs by excessively expressing the silhouette in general shapes of shirts. I come. to find that the mainly the designs, emphasizing the uniqueness and the distinction with transformed shapes of sleeves, cuffs and the length of shirts in exaggerated manners, are appearing. Thus, I intend to provide a reference material which will be useful for the newly created design and researches of figurative characteristics in the future fashion.
A Study on Service Quality of Fashion Retail Stores, using the Kano Model & Potential Customer Satisfaction Improvement Index - Focused on Department Stores -
Han, Sang-In ; Hwang, Sun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 34~46
The purposes of this study are to classify apparel service quality elements using the Kano's model, and to identify how much service quality can increase the degree of customer satisfaction when the service quality is fully fulfilled. Women over 20 years-old from metropolitan areas participated in the study. Data from 254 questionnaires were used for the statistical analysis. The results were as follows: First, 17 service quality elements were categorized into one-dimensional quality which could lead to both satisfaction and dissatisfaction, and 3 services quality elements were categorized into indifferent quality which neither result in satisfaction nor dissatisfaction. Second, potential customer satisfaction improvement(PCSI) Index was developed using Kano model and CS coeffient. Findings of this study provide both industry and academic researchers with a guide to increase customer satisfaction in fashion retail store.
Development of Clothes Design for Silver-Generation Women
Seok, Hye-Jung ; Han, Seung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 47~57
This study is aimed at presenting the information on tailor-made clothes products which could positively relieve the psychological anxiety of the aged and enhance their living independence, and also at the development of clothes designs which could help them enjoy their healthy and activities. Based on the survey, the study conducted the research and analysis on the wearing practices, problems, and improvements for the clothes for the aged and found out their favorite clothes designs and colors. Based on the findings, the clothes models were recruited that reflect the physical features of silver-generation women and assist them with their joint protection. Moreover, the emphases were placed on the convenience of dressing or undressing, and the current fashion of development of clothes. The number of the clothes models developed were 11 for one pants suit, two skirt suits, one knit wear, one training wear, and one bolero.
Design Development of Fashion Cultural Products based on Convergence of International Exposition Yeosu and Regional Culture
Kim, Sun-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 58~68
With Expo 2012 Yeosu to be held in 2012, this study intends to propose designs for fashion cultural products into which the characteristics of local cultures of Yeosu are fused. Using symbols of Expo 2012 Yeosu and cultural symbols of Yeosu City as motifs, this study will develop patterns and then, apply them to neckties, handkerchiefs, and T-shirts. Adobe Illustrator CS2 and Adobe Photoshop CS2 will be used. This study developed basic motifs so that cultural resources using camellia, Odong Island, and the Turtle Ship, which represent Yeosu City, could be well harmonized with the topic of Expo 2012 Yeosu. This paper set three basic motifs of new formative images, using graphic images that were made by omission of forms, simplification, overlap, repetition, and calligraphy of the name of Yeosu holding the event. Each set motif was expanded to three motifs again through change, conversion, and mixture of colors, and three types of repetitive applied patterns were developed through revolution, symmetry, repetition, and reversal of each motif. The modern and refined image for neckties, to which the developed motif was applied, was made by directly applying the repetitive pattern of each motif or by making
revolution. For handkerchiefs, revolution, enlargement, reduction, and gradation were applied to the motif so the pattern could be highlighted to the maximum and finally, a colorful image was developed. For T-shirts, three designs-a half-sleeved box type, a sleeveless round neckline type, and a sleeveless V-neckline tight type-were developed, through which availability of the design was increased. Through enlargement, reduction, revolution, and repetition of each motif, this paper layout the pattern on the whole part of a T-shirt, pursuing a decorative and casual image.
Tubular Jacquard Knit Wear Design through the Application of Keith Haring's Works
Lee, Ha-Jung ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 69~83
This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.
The Image of Black Color in Fashion Formed by Existentialism in the 20th Century
Suh, Seung-Hee ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 84~93
The purpose of this study is to analyse the fashion image behind the colour black formed by existentialism in the 20th century. Human beings started to ask themselves questions about their nature and existence by undergoing two world wars in the 20th century. Existentialism was born out of these philosophical thoughts and in particular, French existentialists led the public discourse of the time and expressed their philosophical thoughts and ideas through black fashion. Therefore we revealed the existentialistic meanings of black by studying the French existentialist ideology and their black fashion. The thoughts of existentialism became popularized in France by French philosophers. Sartre especially played a big role in the popularization of existentialism in France. The black fashion worn by existentialists became popularized along with the ideology that it expressed. Sartre's thoughts on existentialism are summarized in existence Precedes Essence, self-reliance, and engagement. From these, the fashion image behind the colour black formed by existentialism was analogized to resistant image, nihilistic image and self-reliance image.
Absence and Resemblance of Romantic Style in Modern Fashion
Kim, Jeong-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 94~108
The goal of this dissertation is to analyze various Romantic styles appearing in modem fashion based upon the 'Difference' theory developed by Michel Foucault. The characteristics that represent 'difference' in change of dress style are absence and resemblance. They are derived from the Foucault's interpretations of 'difference' represented in the paintings by Vel
zquez and Magritte. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style dress in the 19th century are suppression of body, fixed form, volume, and ornamentation. And the aesthetic values of that are subordination, sensuality, and maternity. The formative characteristics of the Romantic style that have appeared since 1980s is analyzed according to absence and resemblance. The results are as follows: first, absence in fashion means that body is more emphasized than dress represented by omitting part or the entire of dress or using the transparent materials. In modem fashion, absence also frees the body from dress and creates ambiguity of boundaries between body and dress. Another characteristic of the absence is lessening the volume, which means the size of dress remains still big but the weight is lightened. Second, resemblance means the formative similarities between the Romantic style of the
century's and that of modem fashion created through using modem technology and materials. The characteristics of the resemblance are the fixed form, lessening of volume of the dress and ornamentation. Feminine beauty inherent in the original, such as subordination, sensuality, and maternity, looses its symbolic meaning and what is created is a new combination of images and signifiant that contain no or uncertain meanings. Thus totally new and different Romantic style is created. The Romantic style in modem fashion changed into the appropriate style to the modem society under various conditions such as designer's will, postmodernism, changes of femininity and technology.
A Study on the Postmodernist Tendencies in Stage Costume of Korean Theater Since 1990's
Woo, Bo-Kyung ; Kim, Young-Sam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 109~123
Postmodernism has affected general culture and arts as a powerful cultural image that has governed the later 20th century, and it is still a main subject as Zeitgeist representing modern society. Accordingly, this study is to verify the role and importance of the stage costume according to change of the art trend in the present age by clarifying relations between the postmodernism and the stage costume, and analyzing the postmodernism trend shown in postmodern classes. The postmodernism trend in costume is summarized as the deconstructionism, eclecticism and the populism. Hereunder is the conclusion of applying Postmodernism characteristics and creation mechanism commonly existing in theater and costume to the costumes of Korean theaters since 1990's. First, a deconsructionism trend of the Korean theater was visualized by the expression method of disembodiment and decomposition of stage costumes. Second, expression phase of interculturalism was concretely visualized through the stage costume, and it was considered that the postmodernism creation method. Third, a populism trend since 1990's was reflected to the stage costume, and deduced consensus with the audience and subculture familiar with the public as well as appeared as a phenomenon that emphasized a recreational elements. It is analyzed that this trend is a result that a concept of sportiveness was directly transferred through strong visual expression function of the stage costume. As a result of analyzing a Korean theater of the postmodernism disposition since 1990s, the costume reflected creational will of the postmodernism of works and played an important role as visual arts, created with a similar method and form.
Modernity in Costume
Yi, Jae-Yoon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 1, 2011, Pages 124~131
Modernity is commonly defined as a reflection of the features of modern society based on the historical experience of the West. As such, modernity includes involvement with political, economic, and social changes, a changing world-view, and changing trends in equality, gender roles, a desire for "the new," consumption, distribution based on mass production, and rational reform in fashion and dress. First and foremost, however, modernity in costume has been driven by the functional requirements of industrial capitalism. But while modernity has popularly been regarded as some sort of universal standard, in fact the West and the other societies have vastly different, unique, and particular experiences with their own respective histories of modernization. For this reason, cultural changes in the modernization process should be-indeed, must be-analyzed in the context of a country's own unique historical and cultural circumstances, rather than through the prism or strict adaptation of generalized Western concepts of modernization. Moreover, a "periodization" of the modernization of fashion and dress can be established by examining the characteristics of modernity in costume.