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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 61, Issue 10 - Dec 2011
Volume 61, Issue 9 - Nov 2011
Volume 61, Issue 8 - Sep 2011
Volume 61, Issue 7 - Aug 2011
Volume 61, Issue 6 - Jul 2011
Volume 61, Issue 5 - Jun 2011
Volume 61, Issue 4 - May 2011
Volume 61, Issue 3 - Mar 2011
Volume 61, Issue 2 - Feb 2011
Volume 61, Issue 1 - Jan 2011
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Formativeness of Russian Constructivism in Modern Fashion
Sohn, Ho-Young ; Kan, Ho-Sup ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 1~15
Constructivism is an avant-garde movement that began in 20th-century Russia, which rapidly turned into an industrial society. This was one of the most experimental art movements, that wanted to be at the center of social and political-ideological change as it pursued a unique style, which portrayed the true essence of art and humanity. Russian constructivism greatly influenced modern fashion and suggested a new artistic standard. First, the artistic elements of Russian constructivism include photo montages, geometrical structures, color abstraction, and an asymmetrical order, through which the ideals of the Russian Revolution were substantiated, idealized, and materialized into an artistic form. Second, the different forms of Russian constructivism have various artistic characteristics such as popularity, spatiality, structuralism, decorativeness, and mobility, which were then expressed in modern fashion elaborated below. This study intends to reconstruct the meaning of Russian formalism and reflect it on fashion; thereby reconsidering the characteristics and the meaning of Russian constructivism in the context of today's fashion. This will broaden the meaning of constructivism and suggest a new direction for modern fashion.
Color Preference Study for Mountain-Climbing Wear According to Gender
Nan, Mei-Lin ; Kim, Chan-Ju ; Lim, Hye-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 16~31
This paper aims to identify the similarities and differences of color preference for mountain climbing wear according to gender, season and item. Total of 749 photos of mountain climbers were taken in 2009 during weekends in May and October at two mountains in Seoul. In order to analyze color by hue and tone, all the data were digitalized using Photoshop and converted to HV/C by using the Munsell Conversion software. For the purpose of data analysis, 13 colors of hue, including 10 base colors of the Munsel color system plus white, gray and black, and 12 tones of PCCS were grouped into 5 groups according to close distance. Jumper, t-shirts, vest and pants were selected as the 4 item categories. Results showed that there were clear differences in color preference based on gender. Women, with a preference for red, reddish purple, black, purple and blue, displayed wider range of choices in color as compared to men, who preferred black and blue color throughout all seasons. Yellow, green, and greenish blue were less preferred by both men and women. For pants, black represented over 90% as the main color for both genders. Overall, men preferred dark tones and women preferred vivid and bright tones. Moreover, there were less distinct differences in color preference according to season and item.
A Paradigm for the Semiotical Interpretation of Rimmed Make-up
Kim, Hyun-Mi ; Jang, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 32~41
The purpose of this study is to prove an importance of systemic analysis paradigm to interpret fashion make-up. This research employed 'paradigm for interpretation of fashion make-up signs' theory to analyze data. This theory consists of three steps to interpret the meaning of a work: (1) recognition of form, (2) analysis of connotation meanings, and (3) analysis of symbolic meanings and communication. The results of this study were as follows. Jean Paul Gaultier's eye make-up uses a square pattern that mostly consists of the color black. He presents a Glam Rock image by using rimmed make-up that portrays an avant-garde and a nonmainstream culture. Jean Paul Gaultier's make-up was showing black color and square eye pattern and was presenting Glam Rock image and was a rimmed make-up meaning a nonmainstream culture and Avant-garde symbolically. Chanel's make-up emphasizes the eyehole with the rimmed technique by applying the make-up of Marchesa Casati and including non-popularity, Limited Marketing symbolically. Christian Dior's make-up applies the representative make-up of Joan of Arc and Siouxsie sioux and also uses rimmed make-up to portray the meaning of religion persecution, the dark-ages militarism and including Humanism symbolically.
The Cultural Identity Found in Contemporary T-Shirts and the Development of Design
Lee, Min-Sun ; Ahn, Ga-Young ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 42~54
The study was focused on surveying the cultural identity and the origin of T-shirts, and examining their functions. Six cities were selected to categorize the design motifs of cultural identity appearing in the design of contemporary T-shirts. These cities include a city in France, United Kingdom, Italy, United States and Japan where collections are currently presented at, and also a city in China that has shown a high economic growth as one of the most popular sightseeing cities. Cultural identity was presented in the T-shirts that were examined in this study through diversified design motifs. Motifs used in T-shirt designs to reflect cultural identity included national flags, notable places, letters, names of geographic places, and individuals. A national flag is a motif that signifies national identity and it was used in the front of T-shirts as it is or was just partially used. Also, many world-renowned structures or architectural buildings were applied to T-shirt design. Noted places such as the White House, the Statue of Liberty in the U.S., Tienanmen Square in China and the Eiffel Tower in France were used. The unique characters of language, such as Hangeul in Korea were used as design elements to reflect the structural characteristics of letters. Names of geographic places were used as design elements through the disclosure of the name of a symbolic city or a tourist site in each country. In terms of figures, not only the historical figures or celebrities from each country were used, but the image of bodies and faces that represent each culture were used as well. In addition, this study was used to develop T-shirt designs that reveal the cultural identity of Korea.
A Study on Court Ladies' tasks and Costume in the Joseon Dynasty
Kim, Soh-Hyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 55~71
Court ladies' tasks were largely divided into two. First, if there is a royal family event, such as the royal family's wedding or feast, they followed the rules and regulations of work division that was defined in "Gyeonggukdaejeon". Secondly, during normal days, they were divided into Jimil (至密), Chimbang (針房), Subang (繡房), Sesugan (洗手間), Saenggwabang (生果房), Naesojubang (內燒廚房), and Oesojubang (外燒廚房) and took charge of female work that was needed daily at the palace including serving, cooking, laundry, needlework, embroidery, cleaning, and nurturing. This organization was operated by different palaces such as the daejeon(king's palace), daebijeon(queen dowager's palace), junggungjeon(queen's palace), or sejagung(prince's palace). Court ladies were selected among female slaves of the government office or naesusa(a ministry of royal household properties). Although commoners were forbidden to be selected, they sometimes became court ladies voluntarily for financial reasons or because of the will of their parents. Court ladies had different appearances according to the division they belonged to. The court girls of Jimil, Chimbang, and Subang wore saeangmeori while court girls from other places had braided hairstyles. At Jimil, they wore all different kinds of chima(skirt) and jeogori(jacket). Usually, court ladies wore navy chima, jade jeogori, green gyeonmagi(top jacket) with the uyeomeori hairstyle. When working in the evening, they wore pink jeogori or yellow-green jeogori, navy chima with the jojimmeori hairstyle for easiness to stay up all night and work. Navy chima was worn by court ladies. If there was a royal family event upper court ladies wore uyeomi, black or green wonsam, and stewards wore garima and dangui.
A Study on the Costume Relics Excavated from Royal Family's Ancient Tombs of Balhae at the Runghai Sites
Jeon, Hyun-Sil ; Kang, Soon-Che ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 72~88
This study is about the costume relics that were excavated from M10 of the 6th site, M13 and M14 of the 8th site among all the Runghai(龍海) ancient tomb sites that were known as the royal family's tombs of Balhae, which were built from the late 8th century to the early 9th century. These costume relics were also introduced in the academic journal of Chinese archaeology(考古) 6 in 2009. The summary of the results that focused on finding features of the costume relics and its meaning were as follows: 1. Male and female statues, both of which were excavated from the Runghai ancient tomb sites, had the shape and composition of the government official's costumes such as the Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Gwadae. The female's hairstyle and accessories were quite similar to other costume relics of Balhae. In particular, the male statues wearing the Danryeong and Bokdu were considered as the normal figures of government officials of Balhaeafter the mid 8th century. 2. The female statue wearing the male attire is considered as a maid, and we can confirm that women dressing up like a man was a popular trend in Tang(唐), and this trend was introduced to Balhae. 3. The back flap(垂脚) of Bokdu that the male statue is wearing in M10 of the 6th site, has a shape that has not been found in the ancient relics of both Balhae and Tang. Therefore, it is considered as a unique shape of Bokdu of Balhae. However, it needs to be observed more and discussed in the future. 4. In regards to the Gwadae, the outside of the Gwadae is decorated with jade and has an embossed carving that is gold inside. The Gwadae of the Runghaisites has a unique design and it is distinguished from other ancient relics. 5. The gold trefoil crown and the leather conical hat that were found in M14 of the 8th site can be seen as the basic composition of official's hats in ancient Korea. Also, the motif of the gold trefoil is closely related to Anthemion that is often seen in the relics of the Three Kingdom period. Thus, we can assume according to this important finding that the style of ancient Korea official's hats came from either the king or a royal family of Balhae after the mid 8th century.
The Influences of Dominant Brand in the Extension Product Category on Consumer Attitude About Fashion Brand Extension
Kwak, Ji-Hye ; Hwang, Sun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 89~103
The purpose of this study is to analyze the effects of dominant brand, the quality variation among brands in the extension product category and the self-construals on consumer's attitude about extension products. The experimental design consist of three-way complex factors and 226 subjects participated for the study. The results showed that when there was fashion brand extension, whether or not there was an existing dominant brand in the extension product category, the quality variation among brands in the extension product category and the types of self-construals had a significant interaction effect on their favorableness and intention to purchase the extension products. Regardless of an existing dominant brand however, the group who had an interdependent self-construal showed higher favorableness and intention to purchase the extension products when the quality variation among brands in the extension product category was lower than when it was high, whereas the group who had an independent self-construal showed no significant difference of the favorableness and intention to purchase the extension products.
An Analytical Research on Exotic Tastes Reflected in Contemporary Men's Fashion - Focused on Collections from 2001 to 2010 -
Shin, Myung-Jin ; Nam, Yoon-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 104~118
The purpose of this study is to examine the recent various developments of men's fashion by analyzing how exotic tastes were presented in men's modern fashion from 2001 to 2010. For this purpose, a researcher reviewed relevant studies to identify the styles of exotic tastes that were reflected in men's modern fashion specifically in Chinese, Japanese, Indian, East Asian, American, North American and South American styles. Findings of this study is summarized as follows. Main examples of men's modern fashion were found in Chinese-style apparel such as the magwae, queue, coolie hat and the Mao jacket. The Kimono and the samurai robe, both of which best represent Japanese apparel and the Japanese traditional patterns also had an influence on men's modern fashion Indian style clothing such as dhoti, veshti and lungi which cover the lower body, vajani as loose trousers, kurta of full-over tunic form and turban also had an effect as well. The men's modern fashion is also impacted by Middle Asian styles that includes the thobe, sirwaal, futah, which is sort of a skirt that is long enough to cover the calf and whose front parts overlap each other, turbans and the hempen hood which is fixed with the agal. Exotic elements such as animal skins, body painting, tattoos and head dresses found in African styles can also be found in men's modern fashion. Parts of North American style influence come from the applications of Indians' costume and head dress. The surveyed men's modern fashion of the South America style was represented by the applications of natives' costume and Andean tunic, loincloth and shawl. In all of the exotic styles found in men's modern fashion, historicity, eclecticism, aestheticism and nature-orientation are implied. They are the source of inspirations that promote changes and diversity in men's modern fashion.
Global Fashion Consumers' Purchase Behavior of the Jean Brands - Focused on USA, Chinese, and French Consumers -
Park, Jin-A ; Ko, Eun-Ju ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 119~134
The present study proposes and tests an integrative model for global consumers to examine the relation among fashion marketing mix, brand attitude, brand loyalty, and purchase intention in the jeans market. The questionnaire surveys 692 consumers in the United States, China, and France. The statistical analysis methods that are used are as follows: frequency analysis, factor analysis, SEM analysis, and multi-group analysis. The results show that fashionability, perceived quality, and advertising have a direct and also a positive effect on brand attitude; however, advertising didn't have a direct effect on purchase intention. In addition, the results of the SEM analysis show that brand attitude leads to brand loyalty, while also showing a direct and indirect positive effect on purchase intention. Furthermore, the multi-group analysis reveals significant differences in SEM among countries such as the United States, China, and France.
A Study on the Structure and Terminolgy of Ranking Belt in Joseon Dynasty
Lee, Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 10, 2011, Pages 135~150
The ranking belts for Joseon dynasty officials that are based on references and relics are studied in this paper in terms of architecture, detailed names, and structural changes according to different time. Officials' uniforms consist of hats, clothes, belts, and shoes. Among these, the belt is an important sign that represents the wearer's ranking. The ranking belts of the Joseon dynasty which were brought from Ming at the late stage of the Koryo dynasty became classified as the following four classes : Seo-dai(a rhinoceros' horn, 犀帶), Gum-dai(gold, 金帶), Eun-dai(silver, 銀帶), and Heug-gag-dai(black horn, 黑角帶). A ranking belt consists of a basic belt body and a plaque that represents the wearer's rank. A plaque consists of 20 plates: three front-center plates that represent the Sam-tai(三台) constellation, six front-side plates that represent the Namduyug constellation(南斗六星), seven back plates that represent the Big Dipper(北斗七星), left side Bo(輔), right side Pil(弼), and a couple of Tamie at both ends. The architecture of the belt body; the basic frame for ranking belts, shows some differences between the former and the latter periods of the Joseon dynasty. In the former period, the belt had a pair of a buckle so that the wearers were able to adjust the belt size. But later, the belt didn't have the buckles to adjust the belt size and consequently it only performed a locking or unlocking function. Therefore, the belts in the latter period were longer than normal and one size fit all. In addition to the functional change of buckles, the shapes of the ranking belts show changes from the round shape to the square shape as time goes on.