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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 61, Issue 10 - Dec 2011
Volume 61, Issue 9 - Nov 2011
Volume 61, Issue 8 - Sep 2011
Volume 61, Issue 7 - Aug 2011
Volume 61, Issue 6 - Jul 2011
Volume 61, Issue 5 - Jun 2011
Volume 61, Issue 4 - May 2011
Volume 61, Issue 3 - Mar 2011
Volume 61, Issue 2 - Feb 2011
Volume 61, Issue 1 - Jan 2011
Selecting the target year
The Traits of Americanization in Modern Korean Fashion
Choi, Soo-Ah ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 1~19
In the process of modernization from the traditional Korean Han-bok to today's modernized fashion. The Republic of Korea received the most influences form the United States among other western countries. The U. S. A. was the primary country who helped to release S. Korea from Japanese colonization in 1945, and provided the most economic and military aids after the Korean War in 1950. The purpose of this case study is to find out the traits of Americanization in modern Korean fashion through sociocultural evidences and reference pictures. The Americanization can be defined as the U. S. A. influencing cultures of other countries, and sometimes resulted in the substitution of a given culture with American culture. Americanization generally is a part of westernization. The analogous terms for Americanization, are Coca-colonization, McDonaldization, Starbuckslization, and Hollywoodization. The theories related to Americanization are theory of economic determination, global system theory, conspiracy theory, modernization theory, and theory of dependence. However, Americanization of Korea cannot be explained in one single theory, but only can be explained as a hybrid of two cultures. There also is a critical viewpoint of de-Americanization. Americanization of Korea were studied in three important chronicles, a period of modernization (1945-1950s), a period of industrialization & popularization(1960s-1970s), and a period of consumerization(1980s-present). The traits of Americanization in the process of modernizing Korean fashion, were found as simplicity, functionality, popularity(kitsch & mimicry), anti-traditional ethics(unchastity & skin revealing), and materialism(lavishness & trends).
The Type Characteristics and Illustration of War Helmets Worn by High Navy Officers during the Period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598)
Lee, Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 20~35
The purpose of this study is to investigate war helmets that were worn by high navy officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598). War helmets worn during the War are classified into three types depending on whether they have a visor or 'cheom' and tongues or 'drim'. The war helmets of circumferential type has neither cheom nor drim. Those of cheom type has cheom, but not drim. And those of drim type has both drim and cheom or jeonbi. The war helmets of cheom type consist of a gamtu which is made of steel and looks like a reversed bowl and cheom that surrounds the entire circumference of gamtu. The war helmets of drim type are reclassified into two types in accordance with the shape of the gamtu and whether they have ganju. Of the two types, one type looks like a reversed bowl and has decorations on the top without ganju. The other type looks like a bottle neck and has ganju on the top, decorations above ganju. War helmets were in transition during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea. Both the war helmets of cheom and drim types were worn during the War. At that time, the officers also wore war helmets having no ganju and looking like a reversed bowl and those having ganju and looking like a bottle neck. During the period, most war helmets were made of steel, but in the 18th and 19th centuries, most of them were made of leather.
A Study on the Characteristics of Male Beauty Style according to the Anima Archetype of Jungian Theory - Focusing on Men's Cosmetic Advertisements -
Chung, Hye-Kyung ; Kwak, Tai-Gi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 36~50
The traditional masculinity has been gradually diversified towards the 21th century due to a new social environment. Men embrace his feminine side with heightened aesthetic sense using cosmetic products for better skin, hair, and nails. This diversification of male image and his beauty style proves the addition of feminity to masculinity. C. G. Jung felt that we are all really bisexual in nature. The anima is the female aspect present in the collective unconscious of men and it is the archetype through which we communicate with the collective unconscious generally, and it is important to get into touch with it for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desire based on the anima archetype in the collective unconscious of men through the diversity of the gender identity shown in men's cosmetic advertisements, and therefore it aim to help developing a marketing strategy of male beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, it conducted an empirical analysis of male beauty style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian anima theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was typified as Retrosexual, Ubersexual, Metrosexual, Cross sexual. Second, the anima archetype stimulates feminity in male beauty style. Cross sexual type has the highest feminine tendency. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. Cross sexual type is most similar to the female beauty style. This feminization of male beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.
Visual Evaluation and Preference in Men's Clothing Color according to Variation in Value and Chroma
Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 51~62
The purpose of this study was to examine the visual evaluation of image according to the style, hue, value, and chroma of the male clothing and the preference of image. A quasi-experimental method was used for this study. The first factorial design was the
(style of upper clothes
color of trousers), and the second factorial design was the
(style of upper clothes
color of trousers). The styles of upper clothes were a soutien collar casual jacket and a polo shirt. The subjects were 509 female college students living in Seoul. Factor analysis showed five image categories of men's clothing: initiative, dignity, politeness, activity, and mildness. Yellow was evaluated as having the highest initiative and activity. Blue was shown to have lower mildness than red and yellow. The high saturated chroma was perceived to be higher initiative and activity than low chroma. The shirts were evaluated higher in activity and mildness than the casual jackets were. The beige pants were perceived to be higher in dignity and mildness than the dark blue pants. The high chroma jackets were perceived to be higher in both initiative and activity than the low chroma jackets. The navy blue pants with the upper clothes in low chroma blue were perceived to be higher in politeness than with the upper clothes in low chroma red or yellow. The low value clothes were perceived to be higher in both initiative and dignity.
Analysis of Articles on Design.Aesthetics and Beauty Aspects in Domestic Men's Fashion
Shin, Myung-Jin ; Nam, Yoon-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 63~70
The purpose of this study was to investigate trend of articles on men's fashion in Korea as seen through clothing-related academic journals from 1990 to 2009. For a total of 478 research papers on men's fashion published in 18 clothing-specialized learned society journals, which are KCI-cited journals or candidates thereof The results were as follows: First, With respect to the number of papers on men's fashion from 1990 to 2009, that of the 2000s rapidly increased to 5.2 times that of the 1990s. Second, The number of each area research was ranked aw follows: social psychology marketing 34.1%(163), clothing construction 32.2%(154), design aesthetics 19.7%(94), beauty 7.7%(37), history of clothing 4.8%(23), textile science 1.5%(7.7). Third, Studies on the aesthetics in men's fashion showed a steady increase from 1995, resulting in the number of papers in the 2000s being 12 times that of the 1990s. And, in the 2000s, the subjects explored in the 1990s, such as feminization of men's clothes, gender images, men's suit, etc. were deepened and expanded.
A Study on the Headgear in the Painting of Tongshinsa Parade in 1711
Park, Sun-Hee ; Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 71~82
This study set out to investigate the identity of everyday headgear, which is often found in many paintings of Tongshinsa, Joseon diplomatic missions to Japan, in the 18th century. That resembles Yu-geon儒巾, but on the top of the headgear are lappets like a roof. The study proceeded as follows: 1) The painting of Tongshjnsa parade in 1711 was used to analyze wearers of everyday headgear because titles of position are shown for each one. 2) Personal records of Tongshinsa in the 18th century were analyzed to examine the cases of everyday headgear. 3) Cases of everyday headgear in literature around the 18th century were examined. Those researches revealed three findings: 1) The names of everyday headgear with a roof shaped top are Gohu-gwan高厚冠 and Yeonyeop-gwan蓮葉冠. 2) Among Tongshinsa, wearers of Gohu-gwan or Yeonyeop-gwan are medical staff, interpreters, painters, and secretaries. However, it doesn't seem to have been distinction between the two types according to social class and position. 3) People wore everyday headgear, that resembled the two types in appearance, such as Mjnja-geon民字巾, Sunyang-geon純陽巾, Hwayang-geon華陽巾, Jeon-geon戰巾, or Jang-geon將巾 in China and Joseon around the 18th century. Among them, Sunyang-geon and Hwayang-geon seem to have had the closest relationship with Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan in terms of shape and character of wearers. The analysis of the research findings led to the two following conclusions: 1) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan were worn as one of everyday headgear to represent appearances of a scholar. 2) Gohu-gwan and Yeonyeop-gwan could be changed versions of the similar everyday headgear or different names of them.
A Study on the Hyperreal in the Military Look - From the Industrial Age to Modern Times -
Lee, Song-Lim ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 83~96
It will be very effective in studying fashion images that reflect society to investigate the process of the images of military uniforms becoming fashion with the images as the original or image changes in the military look in relation to The hyperreal of the Simulation phenomenon. The foundation of the study was set up by studying simulation and simulacra. Studying the simulation phenomenon in fashion was followed by explaining the aspects of simulacra and the hyperreal in image changes in fashion to study and analyze the simulation phenomenon of the military look based on the findings. The study examined the military look from the Industrial Age to modern times through simulation and the hyperreal in the military look of modern fashion through the changes of images that started with military uniforms. Those research efforts led to the following conclusions: Looking into fashion through the military look reveals that The hyperreal made its appearance in most cases with few cases of the 1st and 2nd simulacrum. And hyperreality was closely related to media in fashion under the influence of media. In short, fashion and copy are in an inseparable relation, and the hyperreality phenomenon has always been present in modern fashion.
A Study on Body Type Characteristics of Chinese-Korean Women between 15 and 17 Years Old Living in China
Im, Soon ; Kim, Sang-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 97~110
In this study, the characteristics of body type of Chinese-korean Women between 15 and 17 Years Old Living in China were reviewed by analysing factors and groups in order to provide basic data required to research body types. The following are study results. 1. The study examined average, standard deviation, the minimum value and the maximum value of the 72 items gained from measuring Chinese-korean women between 15~17 years old living in China, and found that 21 items showed more than 4.0 standard deviation among the entire measurements. 2. The current study conducted a factor analysis for the 72 items in order to extract and compare components of body types among Chinese-korean women between 15~17 years old living in China. As a result, 9 factors were extracted, and characteristic values were ranged from 1.15 to 24.71 while the accumulated contributory rate was 75.98%. 3. Chinese-korean women between 15 and 17 years old living in China were classified into three types. Among the 72 items, it was observed that there were differences among groups in 64 items including 15 height items, 10 width items, 16 circumference items, 5 thickness items, 17 length items and weight, excluding neck width, head thickness, shoulder angle, head height, face length, waist back length, scye depth and waist to kip length. 4. As a result of proportion comparison using body indexes of Korean women between 15 and 17 years old living in China and Korea, it was found that, in height item, when regarding the height as 100, Korean women between 15 and 17 years old living in China tended to have longer lower half of the body in relation to the height compared to the Korean.
A Study on a Proposal for Smart Uniforms for Caddies at Golf Courses, including a Study of Prototypes
Kim, Sun-Young ; Kim, Mi-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 111~121
This paper intends to improve caddies' vocational efficiency, to increase the quality of caddies' services for customers, and further, to widen the application of smart clothes by proposing prototypes of smart uniforms in which caddies' vocational characteristics are reflected. The smart uniforms proposed by this study were restricted to those for spring and fall seasons and three types for a jacket, a turtle neck shirt, pants, and a jumper were proposed. Each design was developed to contain functionality and aesthetic, and also to be transformed subject to weather or other conditions. In addition, the uniforms were designed to carry not only a two-way radio and a remote controller for a cart that caddies necessarily carry, but also i-Pod, a distance meter, and other digital tools by use of solar cells. That is, this paper proposed the designs that can meet with caddies' vocational characteristics and different conditions. This paper is regarded meaningful in that smart clothes, which are forecasted as a future high value-added business, are applied to the uniforms of various job types so they can expand me existing functions of uniforms and further, think about the ways of being used for higher value-added products through the fusion with technologies.
A Study on the Kasaya Remains of Great Monk Seo San and Great Monk Byeok Am, from the Middle Period of Joseon Dynasty
Kang, Sun-Jung ; Cho, Woo-Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 122~138
The present research aims to consider the real remains of 2 suits of Kasaya owned by the Hwaeom Temple(華嚴寺) based on research results about Kasaya in the meanwhile. The present research on 2 suits of remains which are Royal gifts given to monk soldiers in case of a national crisis of the Joseon Dynasty has a big meaning in examining characteristics of Kasaya and grasping characteristics and structure of the 17th century's Kasaya of the Joseon Dynasty through dense survey and analysis according to components. If examining characteristics of Kasaya, the Kasaya of the Great Monk Seo San(西山) is composed on the basis of an initial form of Sun and Moon Light Patch's generation and the Kasaya of the Great Monk Byeok Am(碧巖) has a form that is separately attached through production of embroidery patch as a process of being settled down. If examining what surrounds gold thread in the girth and expression of Sumeru and Chaeunmun(彩雲紋), the composition of a form similar to an insignia badge, so because this is a Royal gift, this can be estimated as being analyzed in a Buddhism aspect by devising a design from the insignia badge at the time, with a meaning like an official uniform given to a monk. Although the insignia badge is a square, it seems that the Sun and Moon Light Patch is made as a rectangular form corresponding to the structure of Kasaya. In addition, it is thought that what the Samjoko(三足烏) idea which is a symbol of the Sun based on Buddhism and Taoism is used together with Yijoko(二足烏) even in expression of the Sun and Moon Light Patch in the Joseon Dynasty which was a Confucian country has a relationship with what a bird was expressed in the insignia badge of winged animals.
A Study on the Reflection of Digilog in Contemporary Fashion
Kim, Sang-Ja ; Park, Myung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 3, 2011, Pages 139~152
This research explores the idea of digilog for fashion; it would help to conclude the uncertain mixed-phenomena and words as a neologism and find a fundamental concept that would be a reference for a lot of uncertain new words that have been occurring even this year. Furthermore, this research is aimed at analyzing how digilog has been reflected on the contemporary fashion and directing the ways towards the future of fashion. The digilog fashion design is the expression of a combination of opposite extremes, that is to say the combination of a paradoxical mix and directly-opposed elements. The outward expression of fashion design with digilog can be classified into several ways. First of all, it tends to use the elements of paradoxical expression; for example, applying high-technology to express a primitive and natural material. The analog expresses unprocessed. Secondly, using high-tech machine to express the texture of handicraft or rough embroidery. Lastly, digital printing(DTP) is applied to enlarge the several or the whole parts of a natural object or sensitivity. As a result of the analysis, the inside view of the contemporary fashion with digilog delineate followings; it is the attitude that claims to go back to the past and accepts the combination of nature and high-technology to get calmness in the rapidly changing modern world. And it is the will to fly from the utterly exhausted reality through the recurrence of the past when there used to be a lot of energies and used to live in affluence.