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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 61, Issue 10 - Dec 2011
Volume 61, Issue 9 - Nov 2011
Volume 61, Issue 8 - Sep 2011
Volume 61, Issue 7 - Aug 2011
Volume 61, Issue 6 - Jul 2011
Volume 61, Issue 5 - Jun 2011
Volume 61, Issue 4 - May 2011
Volume 61, Issue 3 - Mar 2011
Volume 61, Issue 2 - Feb 2011
Volume 61, Issue 1 - Jan 2011
Selecting the target year
Knitwear Design Utilizing African Body Painting Pattern - Development of Ethiopia School Uniform using SDS-ONE -
Yoo, Jin-Hee ; Lee, Youn-Hee ; Lee, Yoon-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 1~13
The purpose of this research is to find out more usages in today's fashion industry where various designs and changes of production required. And this research will also suggest new products and new directions to enhance the efficiency of product planning and production in knit industry using SDS-ONE program. Ethiopia in East Africa, knit already has been used as a school uniform. There is a big difference in temperature spread due to. Knit is a proper item to initiate the textile industries of underdeveloped countries. So this research can develop knit industry and lead the trend of introducing fashion in school uniforms. In this research, we use Paint of SDS-ONE to transform the patterned item into color jacquard, and show it on the designed clothes using simulation. It is shown that body painting pattern is suitable conditions for knit jacquard and simplified pattern can be applied as an excellent knit. And it is discovered the simulation feature of SDS-ONE program has a high efficiency and can be used effectively in African textile industry the future mass production base; SDS-ONE simulation can show various patterns and colors with constrained kinds of threads. Since the body painting designs can be applied in various fields, and from women's wear to men's wear, without limitation, we can take advantage of the broad.
Creation through the Distancing Effect (Verfremdung) in the Fashion Field
Suh, Seung-Hee ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 14~23
The present study aims to apply the theory of Brecht's 'Verfremdung' or distancing effect to the process of fashion design. The distancing effect refers to an avant-garde artistic technique that enables artists to create their works by viewing particular objects separately from the phenomena that occur around those objects. Brecht encouraged a sense of purpose that involved shifting to the new society sought by modernism. He also suggested an artistic approach that isolates perception from judgment 'Verfremdung' which reflects his approach well. In this paper, with the distancing effect considered as a method for creation, the author identifies the system of thought associated with the distancing method and applies this system to fashion design. To this end, the author first reviewed the concepts of 'Entfremdung' (alienation) and the distancing effect and studied the backgrounds of the two concepts. Next, the author identified Brecht's epic theory and its application. As a result, a method of perceiving objects as used with the distancing effect was noted, and this method was utilized to distinguish the relationship between the body and its clothes. Specifically of interest were parts of the human body and the related functions of clothes as well as the motor functions of the body and detailed decorations on clothes. Moreover, the author discovered a trend in the wearing of clothes that exists in the context of historical changeability by examining Brecht's work as it relates to the types of clothes that are worn. Finally, the author applied the distancing effect to fashion design in consideration of the discovered trend.
An Analysis of the Types & Internal Meanings of Objects Used in Fashion Design
Kim, Bo-Young ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 24~37
This study aims to figure out any possible expanded expression methods and diverse formative effects in fashion design by recognizing the importance of objects that suggest new paradigms as a means of expressing aesthetic consciousness in contemporary fashion and analogizing the formative characteristics of objects used in fashion and their significance. Accordingly, the study focuses on analyzing and interpreting objects introduced to fashion design with a formative view by substituting the concept of an object that has taken an important position in the contemporary arts for fashion. This study further aims to examine the concept of objects by trend and their characteristics within a syntactical structure and come up with a standard for classification of objects and a framework of analysis from cubism in the early 20th century when the concept of an object began to appear in arts to Dadaism, Surrealism, Pop art, Land art, Environmental art and the present time. Finally, the study aims to examine the status of objects in fashion and the relationships between fashion and objects through analyses on fashion objects and to suggest new perspectives and approaches to interpret the contemporary fashion in the 21st century.
Phenomena of Mixture in High.Low Class Culture in Contemporary Knit Fashion
Park, Moon-Hee ; Lee, Youn-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 38~51
The purpose of this study is to offer data that designers can utilize substantially, by developing creative materials in knit fashion through the analysis relevant to expression characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture, which were shown in knit fashion of contemporary women, as one of methods of pursuing a plan for being able to be appeared creative and unique knit wear. As for a method of this research, studied concept and characteristics on the mixture in high low class culture by preceding researches. And women's knit fashion was selected that is seen to be 3~18 gauge among the world's 4 collections from 2000~2008. The analysis was made with the analytical frame in mixture pattern, and the analytical frame in design element, and item. The results are as follows. The mixture of kidult element and high fashion was shown with characteristic of expressing humor and fun with graffiti, expression like character and cartoon, and fairy-tale fantasy through the exaggerated trifling article. The mixture of grungy element and high fashion was shown with the expression characteristic in the mixture of heterogenous pattern, and in tear, slit without the end treatment due to fraying the end strand in the knit fashion with basic stitch, patch work, fringing and tone-down gray, use of khaki and blue color, and match in opposite color. The mixture of underwear and high fashion was shown the expression characteristic with the emphasis on underwear line like volume up, or with the mixture of details such as pants in diverse lengths, mini skirt, underwear lace, and ribbon.
Historiographical Study of Costume Depicted in the "Ye-Ji(禮志)" Section of the Book "Goryosa(高麗史)"
Yi, Seung-Hae ; Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 52~62
This study is about the history of costumes depicted on the book Goryosa(高麗史) Ye-Ji(禮志). Researches about the costumes of Goryo dynasty are very rare and are mostly based on Goryodogyung(高麗圖經) and Goryosa Yebok-Ji(與服志). However, records about suitable costumes for a special scene of a rite can also be found in Ye-Ji besides Yebok-Ji. Therefore, this study analyzes Ye-Ji and categorizes the results into character and situation. Characters that can be found are king, officials, crown prince, aristocrat, commoner and envoy. Situations that can be found, according to the original text, are Gilrye(吉禮), Hyoongrye(凶禮), Goonrye(軍禮) and Garye(嘉禮). The results of the study are as follows;
The king had to change clothes in order to suit the situation according to the precise sequence of rituals. Therefore the king had to wear different clothes in the same rite, optionally, depending on the situation. This also applies to the case of officials.
The crown prince and aristocrats generally wore the same clothes as officials.
In the important ritual of Garye(嘉禮), many cases can be found where officials wore Jobok(朝服) and hands-on worker wore Gongbok(公服).
It is remarkable that on the New Year's day, the winter solstice and Sungsoojul(聖壽節; the emperor's birthday) the envoy of Ming Sangbok(常服); whereas the king and the officials of Goryo wore the Myunbok(冕服) or Jobok(朝服).
The Influence of Perceived Value and Perceived Risk on Consumer Purchasing Behavior for Imported Apparel in Internet Shopping Malls
Kim, Hyo-Jung ; Hwang, Sun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 63~75
The purpose of this study were to investigate influences of perceived value and perceived risk on purchasing behavior for imported apparel from official dealer and unofficial dealer in internet shopping mall. A total of 363 female subjects with ages ranging between 20's and 30's completed the questionnaire. The results of this study were as follows. 1) Imported apparel through official dealer had no influence by impulse buying for convenience and efficiency value, information value, after-purchasing value. On the other hand, imported apparel through unofficial dealer had a negative influence by impulse buying for convenience and efficiency value. 2) Imported apparel through official dealer had a negative influence by impulse buying for function and service risk. But for imported apparel through unofficial dealer, not only function and service risk but also private information risk were influenced by impulse buying. 3) All of imported apparel through official dealer and unofficial dealer had no influence by flow for convenience and efficiency value, information value, after-purchasing value. 4) All of imported apparel through official dealer and unofficial dealer were influenced by flow for function and service risk. That is to say, when consumer find satisfaction about quality of products, whether real thing or not, guarantee of quality, consumer's purchasing behavior will be enhance.
A Study on the Development of Designs for the Shirts and Accessories Using the Traditional Kerchiefs and Embroideries in the Era of Joseon Dynasty
Cho, Sung-Ran ; Park, Sun-Kyung ; Yun, Eul-Yo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 76~91
During the era of Joseon Dynasty when the Confucian ideas were prevailing all over the manners of living, most women were usually living separated in the boudoirs, the isolated living quarters exclusively for women, where they used to do much troublesome needleworks for the traditional kerchiefs and embroideries for which they poured out their souls and hand skills. And therefore, nowadays, such works are deemed much valuable for either formative or artistic point of view, and their legitimate cultural designs are receiving much publicity from a number of mass communications as one of the national competitive powers. Thus, I, the researcher for the subject study, have completed 1-year researching lessons on the traditional kerchief and embroidery of Ms. Hyeon-Hee Kim, the Mater-hand, at Korea Traditional Handicrafts Institute of Korea Cultural Heritage Foundation, and then engaged myself in the creative works relevant to the subject by cultivating the power of understanding to such field, restoring the techniques of the traditional handicrafts, reconstructing them into the modern sensual descriptions, and also trying to apply various transformations and modifications to them.
Study on the Current Situation of Shroud Design, and Direction for the Development of Hanji Shroud Designs
Jeon, Yang-Bae ; Geum, Key-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 92~102
This study researches the current status of shrouds and analyzes the current status of the Hanji shrouds and sets its goal on suggesting the direction for a futuristic shroud design, suitable for the changing funeral culture. For this, the characteristics of traditional shrouds were studied, standard shrouds' and Hanji shrouds' current statuses were researched and analyzed to suggest the development diretion for design of Hanji shrouds. The results of the research showed that the Hanji shrouds are superior in cremation and burial, and the design expressions were more effective. Also the previously established shrouds were shown to have an increase in value through use of different materials, changing designs through various patterns, or through the added symbolic value. Thus the direction of shroud development designs based on the advantages of Hanji have been drawn out to as follows: First, traditional shrouds used the ceremonial dresses, such as official uniforms or wedding dresses, from the Tang dynasty which made it multicolored. Afterwards colors were limited with the use of hemp clothes shrouds but with the appearance of Hanji shrouds, the possibility for mulitcolors and patterns became larger. Second, Hanji is superior in its expression of colors and patterns, making designs with symbolic sides such as religion possible, to meet the demands of the customers. Third, Hanji shrouds are more environmentaly friendly than the standard shrouds in cremation and burial, and it presents a much better image of shrouds for the future society. Such development of Hanji shrouds design developments satisfies the distinct and gentrified demands of the customers and it looks to be able to suggest an opportunity for environmentaly friendly actions while preparing itself for the chaning market demands and values.
A Study on the Revision and the Loss of National Identity of Western-styled Court Costume in the Daehan Empire
Lee, Kyung-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 103~116
The purpose of this study is to investigate the revision of the western-styled court costume in the Daehan Empire. For this purpose, 1) historical documents were reviewed, 2) one set of the court costume of Chigimgwan and another set of the court costume of Juimgwan were probed, 3) the photos of people wearing court costume were analyzed. The results of this study are as follows. First, the
Imperial order of "official costume statute" had been revised in 1904, 1905 and 1907 through official gazettes. The last version of official costume statute enacted the more detail than the first rule. Second, the
Imperial order of "official costume rules" had been revised in 1904, 1905, and transformed into official costume rules reform on
Dec., 1906. The revision in 1905 made gold embroidery of court costume more simple than the first rule. The form of court costume was totally revised by change of the shape of adjusting on the top in the revised rule of 1906. Third, the revision in 1905 was actually manufactured and worn by the people because it can be confirmed in the relics of the court costume of
Chigimgwan in Yonsei University Museum, and the court costume of juimgwan in Kwangju Municipal Folk Museum. The relics made by the revision in 1906 had not been reported until now, but they can be confirmed in the photos left. Fourth, the sovereignity of the Daehan Empire was actually lost by
Imperial family order which urged the servant having the title of nobility of Japan to wear the court costume of Japan. Therefore, the endeavor of the Daehan Empire which wanted to establish and develop the costume system of modern independent nation was discontinued.
A Study on the Silk Tabbies, Ju(細) and Si(總), Considering the Relationship between Ancient Korea and Ancient Japan
Jeon, Hyun-Sil ; Kang, Soon-Che ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 117~137
This study analyzed historical records on silk tabby-ju(細), Si(總)- in a diachronic and spatial point of view. The historical records were written in Samguksagi(三國史記) of Korea, Eastern barbarian[東弟] section of Ershiwush(二十五史) of China and Ritkokusi(六國史)of Japan from the
century to the early
century. The study finally could reach the conclusions as follow. Firstly, records that fabrics like Ju were used were found in the Korean historical documents written on Balhae(渤海) of the
century and Sllla(新羅) of the
century. On the other hand, no official record on production of fabrics like Ju was found in the Japanese historical documents up to the
century. Instead, there are some records that Si was produced and used for the first time in the
century and it was rapidly spread in the
century. In the
century, the number of records on Si was sharply decreased and the importance of Si in the foreign-relation point of view also went down gradually. Secondly, records on using and trading with both Ju(細) and Si(總)in the foreign relation of two countries were shown from the
century to the
century. In the period, international exchange had been promoted among Balhae, Silla and ancient Japan. In the
century, fabrics like Ju of ancient Korea was introduced to ancient Japan ancient Japanese people could not manufacture Ju by themselves at that time. On this account, we assumed that ancient Japanese people might consider Ju as high quality fabric rather than Si that had been used as general fabric. Meanwhile, it is found that Japan presented various kinds of Si to Balhae and Silla from the early
century. As the foreign relation between Sllia and ancient Japan got weaker in the mid-
century, frequency and amount of supplying Si to Balhae were relatively increased. Besides Si, Balhae was given a lot of silk yarn and floss. These fabrics presumably were used as raw material of Ju in Balhae because Balhae got low output of silk due to its geographical condition.
Lifestyle and Clothing Purchase Behavior of Mongolian Women
Urnaa, Urnaa ; Yu, Hae-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 138~151
Due to its vast lands and rich underground resources, Mongolia is a country with high growth potential, even though it is currently in the early stage of economic development. In Mongolia, the Korean wave (Hallyu) has increased interests in Korea, especially in Korean fashion. This study analyzed lifestyles and examined the characteristics of clothing purchase behavior of Mongolian women in order to deepen the understanding of Mongolians' lifestyle and clothing purchase behavior and provide information for successful marketing strategies. The results based on 293 questionnaires showed that lifestyles consisted of six factors (socially active, beauty seeking, individualistic, simple comfort seeking, sensitive to others' perception, information focused) and four groups (socially oriented, individualistic, beauty seeking, and information seeking) were identified. Among the lifestyle groups, socially active group showed clear differences from other groups and there was no significant difference in demographic characteristics according to the lifestyle groups.
Development of the Design Prototype for Funtional Men's Outdoor-Wear Jacket
Im, Min-Jung ; Seo, Moon-Jung ; Park, Ju-Yeon ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 4, 2011, Pages 152~168
The purpose of this study is to develop a design prototype of outdoor-wear which is suitable for trekking. For achieving this purpose, 6 factors(bodice, sleeve, hood, pockets, opening, hem-line) considered for clothing function were selected, classified, and complemented based on the survey of literature and the research of 185 designs in 12 outdoor-wear brands. The results are as follows; The removable hood and 4DM sleeve style with the elastic band and velcro for the cuffs was the most preferred in the detail design on the brand research. And also the ventilation function and 1 or 2 diagonal in-seam pocket, covered zipper was preferred. Based on this result, two design prototypes of men's outdoor-wear for trekking were suggested; jacket 1 has a slim waist line and a hip length. Front opening has a zip and placket for windproof effect. There is a detachable hood with stopper around the head line. 4DM sleeve and elastic band inserted at the end of sleeve, so that prevent the hem-line raising. Two inseam pocket is placed slightly diagonal. Jacket 2 is a hood jacket with a york. The Jacket has a little roomier in waist and a hip length. Front opening is fastened by a waterproof zip. It has a 4DM sleeve and a princess line to make it placed two pocket which have ventilation functionality.