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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 61, Issue 10 - Dec 2011
Volume 61, Issue 9 - Nov 2011
Volume 61, Issue 8 - Sep 2011
Volume 61, Issue 7 - Aug 2011
Volume 61, Issue 6 - Jul 2011
Volume 61, Issue 5 - Jun 2011
Volume 61, Issue 4 - May 2011
Volume 61, Issue 3 - Mar 2011
Volume 61, Issue 2 - Feb 2011
Volume 61, Issue 1 - Jan 2011
Selecting the target year
Development of a Mountaineering Jacket Design Using a CWS(Construction Without Sewing) Method
Chung, Sham-Ho ; Kang, Min ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 1~14
With the trend of wearing mountaineering wear as casual apparel as well as a continuous increase of mountaineers, mountaineering wear market has rapidly grown. New techniques to improve mountaineering apparel have been developed. Construction Without Sewing(CWS) is one of them. It is a sewing technique to improve performance and functions of new functional mountaineering apparel. CWS employs a welding machine with an adhesive tape and press instead of sewing so that it makes the apparel lighter and have better wearability, durability, and windproof and waterproof function, than sewed apparel. This study focuses on the concept, nature, and applications of the mountaineering wear manufactured by CWS. It also made an analysis of manufacturing process, and proposed three designs for the mountaineering wear created by CWS. With introducing the merits of CWS, the costumers will be have better understanding of CWS and break their stereotype that functional clothing is simply expensive without considering its benefits.
A Study of Local Gum-Mu and Dancing Costumes
Hwang, Hae-Young ; Soh, Hwang-Oak ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 15~37
This study is on dancing dresses of the costumes of Gum-Mu(劍舞, sword dance) in southern, central, and northern region of Korea, focusing on the origin, characteristics and the way of dance. The reason why the Gum-Mu is full of local color is that royal Korean Gisaeng(妓生) and local Gisaeng returned to their hometown and propagated this dance to each regional Kyobang. They combined court sword with each local dance and music and formed the present style of regional Gum-Mu. Dance and music native to area, which has formed today's regional Gum-Mu. The composition of current dancing costume of the sword dance is Jeogori, Chima, Jeondae(戰帶), Jeonrib(戰笠), Kwaeja(快子) Also, The complement colors harmonizing with color of Yin-Yang & Five Elements. which are yellow, blue, white, red, and black, are usually used. And the masculinity in dance were expressed withmore use of blue, and red in the opposite but if a sword dance takes on masculine character, blue color is more used, if feminie character, reddish colors, such as pink and red, are used. Thus, JinJu, Honam, Haeju, Pyeongyang dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature blue color, Tongyeong, Kyeonggi, Court(seoul)dancing Suit of Gum-Mu feature reddish color.
Analysis on the Cultural Phenomena related to the Depiction of Women's Costume in Korean Modern Novels
Jeon, Hyun-Sil ; Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 38~59
This study is based on the periodical discourse of women and their costumes, described in modern novels that were published from late 1890s to the 1930s. New cultural phenomena emerged among Korean women in the period of modernization. In particular, rapid increase of jobs for women and preference for western female body shape are very noticeable phenomena that can be observed in novels of the 1930s. In addition, the symbolic meanings of female costumes are variously described in modern novels according to the periodical and spatial environment and jobs for women. The symbolic meanings are organized as 'Trophysm, Expression of sexuality, Liberation from male-dominated society, Symbolic difference between rural and urban areas, Vanity, Decadence, Mechanism tending to hide and Change of values'. And women's costumes kept changing in the boundary of 'Confliction, Coexistence and Harmonization' of traditional and western costumes. 'Confliction' phenomenon got emerged in novels published between 1900 and 1910. The resistance on traditional costumes that restricted woman's life got spread. But western female costumes as a symbol of new culture could not be generalized but accepted as high fashion. 'Coexistence' phenomenon was appeared in novels of the 1920s. At that time, the modernization for traditional costumes by female students was emerged along with trendy fashion. Also, the frequency of using western fashion items was increased in the Korean society. Therefore, it shows that western costumes in the Korean society became popularized in the coexistence with traditional costumes. 'Harmonization' phenomenon was emerged in novels of the 1930s. In the novels, the emergence of western female costumes, personal preference items, and westernized hair style implies that western costumes were absorbed into the Korean society that had kept traditional costumes.
Analysis of Men's Fashion Style in Popular TV Dramas
Yoon, Ji-Young ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 60~73
Men's fashion has not much changed due to the pervasive patriarchy Because of the change of gender roll and attitude towards one's appearance and fashion, men began to express themselves with fashion in the late 90's. The purpose of this study is to categorize men's image and their fashion styles from Korean TV dramas to provide informations for predicting men's fashion trend in rapidly changing market. Through the analysis of three dramas with 30% or more of audience rating by all age groups from January to July, 2009, nine distinctive male images were selected and their styles were analyzed; silhouette, details, materials, color, accessories, and hair-style. The results are as follows: In the past holding neat and straight line silhouettes but today shows tight silhouette. In color and detail, the use of brilliant chromatic colors, use of hight saturation colors, big and brilliant pattern, ruffles, frills, beads, knitwear, mix matched new composed materials, and light materials are dominant. While short and simple shape of hair-styles were predominant in the past, now we see more varied hair length. Not only that, variety of perms and colors are showed on TV screens. Hence, the results show that a lot of radical change has happened in the men's fashion, and marketing propositions that reflects this change in men's fashion market are requested along with trendy emotional product development and coordination proposals, and finally calls for more multilateral study and market search of male consumers.
A Study on Design Development of Embroidered Fur Muffler
Lee, Hee-Jung ; Choy, Hyon-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 74~85
In modern fashion, accessories are recognized as indispensable articles for the completion of a look. Scarf and muffler has attained significance as a main fashion item. The purpose of study was to analyze the motifs of special material for muffler design on special material, and to seek unique and decorative effect using three dimensional method on the flat surfaced textile to give novelty. This study introduced technique of applying embroidery onto special materials such as fur and leather to achieve variety of texture effect. The results are as follows: Six designs were proposed. Each work has different detail and silhouette, and the unique motif design using embroidery with cotton, nylon, and bead on fur, leather, wool, and satin. This will be a method to develop value-added products in fashion and formative arts.
A Study on the Characteristics of Women's Make-up and Hair Style according to the Animus Archetype of Jungian Theory -Focusing on Cosmetic Advertisements-
Chung, Hye-Kyung ; Kwak, Tai-Gi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 86~100
The traditional feminity has gradually been diversified in the 21th century due to a change in the society. This diversification of women's images and styles is derived from the addition of masculinity to feminity. C. G. Jung insist that human being is bisexual in nature. Animus is the male aspect in the women's collective unconscious and it is the archetype through which we generally communicate with the collective unconscious. It is also important to get into touch with the collective unconscious for self-realization. This study analyzes subconscious desires based on the Animus archetype in the collective unconscious of women through the diversity of the gender identity shown in cosmetic advertisements. Therefore this study aims to suggest a marketing strategy for the women's beauty industry in the future. For this purpose, this study conducts an empirical analysis of women's make-up and hair style in cosmetic advertisements through the Jungian Animus theory. The conclusion of this study is as follows: First, gender identity represented in cosmetic advertisements was classified into Mother/Wife, Hetaira, Mediale and Amazon. Second, the Animus archetype stimulates masculinity in women's make-up and hair style. Third, range of utilization of cosmetic products is articulated with the diverse gender identity. This masculinization of women's beauty style is the external expression of collective unconscious and affords human being to reach self-realization.
A Study on Clothing Image, Make-up Image, and Hair Image for Total Fashion
Choi, Soo-Kyoung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 101~112
The purpose of this study was to investigate the relationships among clothing image, make-up image, and hair image. The Data were collected from 306 women living in Gyeongnam province in June, 2009. Statistical analysis used in this study were frequency, F-test, t-test, Duncan test, factor analysis, Cronbach's
, correlation coefficient, and multiple regression. The results of this study were as follows.: Three factors of clothing image were titled as elegance, youth, and visibility. Three factors of make-up image were titled as modern, romanticism, and mediocrity. Four factors of hair image were titled as attraction, individuality, gentleness, and cuteness. The clothing image, make-up image, and hair image according to the demographic characteristic of women showed significant difference. The clothing image resulted in correlation with the make-up image and hair image. The clothing image had a influence on the make-up image and hair image.
A Study on Frida Kahlo's Fashion Style in Contemporary Fashion
Oh, Eun-Kyung ; Kwak, Tai-Gi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 113~130
Post-Modern Multiculturalism is spreading in many ways and other cultural interest has led to the Latin American culture, which has steadily appeared as the main fashion concept of the international collection. Frida Kahlo(1907-1954), a representative of Latin American culture and a Mexican female surrealistic painter, who gives us some inspiration for contemporary fashion design. The purpose of this study is to have a correct understanding of and research on Latin American culture and to expand the expression of fashion design. In the process, this article examines the costume of Mexico belong to the Indio culture which had been regarded as the Other for a long time and understands Frida Kahlo's fashion style: Tehuanas costume and her masculine style. The Tehuanas costume is a traditional style of the city, Tehuantepec, located in the southeast of Mexico, which is characterized by colorful floral patterns and a long skirt. Three fashion concepts were derived from her fashion style: tradition & modern, love & farewell, and masculine & feminine. The scope of this study investigates the Haute Couture and the Pret-a-porter women's wear collections and photos from 1998 to 2010 in Europe, USA and South America. From classifying the collected photos into each concept, three styles such as ethnic, romantic and androgynous style were derived. These fashion styles were analyzed through the formative elements of dress, color, silhouette, pattern, material and clothing construction in order to figure out how costumes of other cultures influenced on contemporary fashion. As a design inspiration, Frida Kahlo extends her influence into innerwear, accessories and hairstyles, as well as women's wear. These inspirations emerge steadily from the past and far into the future as an expression of a fashion design concept.
Characteristics Analysis of '3.1 Phillip Lim' Brand in order to Create Korean Luxury Fashion Brands
Jung, Kyung-Hee ; Bae, Soo-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 131~145
The purpose of this study is to provide preliminary data on strategies to create a domestic prestige brand based on Korean traditional designs. This study also deals with how to promote this brand around the world. The two points mentioned above will be accomplished by examining the characteristics of the brand '3.1 Phillip Lim' which succeeded in both design and marketing during a short period of time. The method of the study will be followed. Firstly, the basic design and philosophical background of Phillip Lim was investigated, after reviewing the global luxury market and current status of overseas expansion of Korean designers through paper study and antecedent workups. Secondly, for the practical stage, design characteristics and marketing strategies were reviewed with the collections of '3.1 Phillip Lim'. Three factors found in '3.1 Phillip Lim's design success are as follows: First, practical and simple designs using fabrics of high quality. Second, handcraft elements and interesting details that differentiates his design identity. Third, femininity expressed in the feminine silhouette and color. The marketing elements that made '3.1 Phillip Lim' as a successful brand are: First, differentiated positioning as a luxurious contemporary brand. Second, brand promotion through various collaborations. Third, the gradual expansion of women's, men's, kids' apparel to accessory, lingerie and the stable flagship stores. Thus, '3.1 Phillip Lim' has combined modern and classic styles using high quality fabrics and practical designs with unique details. Through it's differentiated marketing strategy targeting New York's market, which prefers popular 'luxury contemporary brand's rather than high-end luxury brands, this brand's creativity and commercial aspects contributed to make '3.1 Phillip Lim' into a luxury brand that represents New York fashion. Korean designers who seek to enter the global fashion industry should consider applying Korean traditional designs on global designs to make favorable products and localize these products according to regional characteristics.
The Meaning of Exposure in Red Carpet Fashion of Korean Female Movie Star
Son, Ji-Won ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 6, 2011, Pages 146~160
The purpose of this study is to examine the aesthetic view towards exposure in the Korean society through the means of analyzing the characteristics of exposure and figuring out the implications expressed in the red carpet fashion of Korean female movie stars. The concept of exposure in fashion was reviewed through previous studies and related publications. The pictures of actresses wearing red carpet evening gowns in Korea's major film festival were collected and analyzed. The results indicated that the meaning of exposure expressed in the red carpet fashion of Korean female movie stars are as follows: First, this leads the trend reflecting the contemporary aesthetic view of exposure as an effective way to show the beauty of the female body. Second, this emphasizes the femininity and expresses eroticism by exposing certain body parts which symbolize the female gender. Third, this shows the narcissistic self conspicuousness as well as the self confidence and self satisfaction. Forth, this displays the playfulness through exposing the body in a unique way. Lastly, the way and level of exposure can be used to maintain or change the public's view upon the celebrity.