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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 61, Issue 10 - Dec 2011
Volume 61, Issue 9 - Nov 2011
Volume 61, Issue 8 - Sep 2011
Volume 61, Issue 7 - Aug 2011
Volume 61, Issue 6 - Jul 2011
Volume 61, Issue 5 - Jun 2011
Volume 61, Issue 4 - May 2011
Volume 61, Issue 3 - Mar 2011
Volume 61, Issue 2 - Feb 2011
Volume 61, Issue 1 - Jan 2011
Selecting the target year
The Study of Foreign Tourist's Preference and Purchasing Behavior of Traditional Souvenir
Lee, Ji-Yeon ; Soh, Hwang-Oak ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 1~16
The purpose of this research is to study and understand the foreign tourist market's preferences and purchasing behaviors of Korean. Especially this study seeks to achieve this purpose by classifying the preferences and purchasing behaviors by nationality into general product. To confirm this research objective, data was collected with questionnaire method along with literature research. Targeting tourists from Japan, America, and China, the questionnaire survey examined their preferences for general color and design as well as the differences and commonality of their purchasing behaviors. As a result of examining foreign tourists' awareness of traditional tourist souvenir, the significant difference was shown by each country. Also, as for the purchasing behavior and preference for foreign tourists' traditional tourist souvenir, results indicated that Americans consider the element of geographical significance and value more than other groups of tourists. Resultantly, people have a different taste of souvenir in color, design, transform and so on by nationality.
A Study on the Formation of Bangryeong in the Joseon Dynasty
Kim, Suk-A ; Choi, Kyu-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 17~34
This study examined how Bangryeong(方領) had been changed from ancient times in China to the Joseon dynasty[朝鮮] in Korea by analyzing Bangryeong in literature, relics, paintings, etc. Based on this, we also analyzed the form of Bangryeong itself and clothes with Bangryeong using excavated relics from the Joseon dynasty. First, from early Chinese literature, it was confirmed that meaning of "Bangryeong" was a collar attached straight to a garment so that if the garment is put on with the fronts intercrossed with each other the back neck part of the collar is naturally squared. Second, from literature in the Joseon dynasty, it was confirmed that the meanings and forms of Bangryeong were diversified and had different characteristics throughout different time periods. Different from its original meaning in China, Bangryeong came to mean an intentionally designed square shape. Third, Bangryeong from the Yuan(燕) and Ming(明) Dynasties were found among relics excavated in China. Bangryeong from Yuan was Cheolik[帖裏] worn by men, and Bangryeong from Ming was found in women's dresses. Fourth, Bangryeong relics from the Joseon dynasty examines its form in detail. Bangryeong was found in various forms of clothes, and this was consistent with findings from literature review.
A Study on Repression of the Female Body as Expressed by Chinese Foot-binding and the Western Corset
Jeong, Ki-Sung ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 35~50
In this study, repression of the body is defined as a restriction on natural developments or movements and a modification either temporarily or permanently of the human body in shape, color, texture and odor. In addition, it involves physical and (or) mental pain. Chinese foot-binding and the Western corset are extreme examples of female body's being repressed in the history of fashion. The analysis of this type of repression will be based on historical research and theoretical concepts such as Darwin's (1809-1882) survival condition, Freud's (1856-1939) renunciation of desire, Weil's (1909-1943) privilege, and Foucault's (1926-1984) L'Usage des Plaisirs(the use of pleasure). Chinese foot-binding symbolically represents ideal beauty, the distinction of an ethnic group, and a desire for improved social status in the struggle for political power. It also represents psychology and a esthetics of eroticism and fetishism that originate from a man's desire and his individual taste. Symbolically, the Western corset represents abundance and fecundity, obedience and devotion to religion, the sanctity of God and ideal beauty as defined by political power. It also represents psychology and aesthetics of eroticism and fetishism as man's desire and a fashion icon. In conclusion, Chinese foot-binding was pursuit of power in male ideology but Western corset was a power struggle between God and mankind.
A Study on the Fashion Involvement, Clothing Selection Criteria and Fashion Information Sources of Leisure Activities Consumers
Je, Eun-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 51~66
The study is intended to suggest the differentiated and subdivided indexes of the leisure fashion market and to provide the marketing strategy establishment and in-depth understanding of leisure fashion business by looking into the correlation between and among fashion involvement, clothing selection criteria and fashion information sources. This study was conducted by the questionnaire response method and the results were derived by using the SPSS 16.0 statistics program. The results of the study were as follows; 1) As a result of researching the difference between the leisure activities consumer groups and fashion involvement, there were significant differences in emotional and cognitive involvement. In the tour activity group and social activity group, emotional involvement was found to be higher than the cognitive experience while in the hobby and sports activity group, both involvements were equally as high. 2) As a result of researching the difference between the leisure activities groups and clothing selection criteria, it was found that the intrinsic and extrinsic criteria were high in the hobby and sports activity group and that the intrinsic criteria was high in the tour activity group and social activity group. 3) In the difference between the leisure activity groups and fashion information sources, it was found that media source, observation source and experience/personal source were high in the hobby and sports activity group. In addition, the experience and personal source were high in the social activity group. 4) In the difference between and among fashion involvement, clothing selection criteria and fashion information sources, it was found that the emotional involvement, intrinsic criteria and observation source were higher in the group of females than males. 5) In the difference between and among fashion involvement, clothing selection criteria and fashion information sources depending on the ages of leisure activities consumers, it was found that the emotional involvement and observation source were high in the group of 20-24 yrs old consumers and that the emotional involvement, intrinsic criteria and observation source were high in the group of 25-29 yrs old consumers. Also, in the group of 30-34 yrs old consumers, the emotional involvement, observation source and experience/personal source were high.
A Study on the Design for Doll Costume with Historical Research in Clay Female's Costume from Hwangsung-dong Tomb
Choi, Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 67~79
This study is to design a ball-jointed doll costume with historical research in clay female doll's costume from Hwangsung-dong tomb of the Silla Dynasty[新羅] in 7C. This clay female doll's costume was characterized by slim silhouette, long sleeves, no neckline, side slit, high waistline, and bun on the back neck of representative of the early era. According to literature of 7-8C and textile relics, it is presumed that she wore short Jeogori[短衣, Dan-eui] with long sleeves and two layered skirt, and Dan-ryeong(團領) could be added as attachment that is reflective of the time era. For making design costume, Ra[羅, silk gauze] was used for long Dan-ryeong, plain silk and brocade[錦, Geum] for Dan-eui and skirt as a special textile of this period. Waist dart and small snap were added to the costume of ball-jointed doll because of hardness and curvy shape of doll's body, without contradicting traditional value. For better use of this study and cost reduction purposes, development of production system for traditional doll costumes should be considered.
An Observation on Characteristic of Mutual-borrowing Paradigm in Twentieth Century Fashion and Art
Park, Shin-Mi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 80~100
The purpose of this research is to classify that fashion and art in the twentieth century broadened the creative field by individually applying each other's ideas or through collaboration. This paper analyses the work of individual artists and fashion designers who created work on the boundaries of fashion and art. These samples are selected to extract features related to specific periods as it is proposed that contemporary creation has been developed from a combination of fashion and art, sharing their distinct concerns. Accordingly, this research will focus on the collaboration between fashion and art in the twentieth century from the aspect of 'fashion into art'/'art into fashion' in order to analyse the historical flow, and thereby examine the relationship between fashion and art. The cross-fertilization between fashion and art was initiated as an imitation of form in the early twentieth century, and led to a 'new cross-disciplinary form' which exists on the boundary of fashion and art. This paper considers the relationship between fashion and art from the perspective of sharing intrinsic concepts and the creation of a new creative sphere. It analyses the characteristics of the works of fashion designers and artists whose works lie on the boundary between fashion and art.
A Study on Development of Out-door Wear Design to Respond to the Climate and Environment -Focus on the design in collections after the year 2000-
Bae, Jung-Min ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 101~109
The present research aims to suggest the design of a new direction that copes with the changing environment. For example, the design for outdoor wear can be made through various methods that allows it to be worn for anytime and anywhere. Also, the research aimed to seek a development direction of outdoor wear design with environment-friendly expanded function that handles unpredictable environmental changes. The analysis of this research is as follows. First, it can be said that the trend of the outdoor wear design according to climate and environment changes is a design that seeks an efficient and rational role in functional aspects such as complex multi-functionality and minimum decorations as well as enhancing economic efficiency. Second, the outdoor wear design provides the optimal climate for the human body even in a continuously changing artificial environment. Its easy and comfortable function also helps to keep defense from possible risk elements. Lastly, this research seeks interactions among design, the body and environment. It also tries shape change using buttons and zippers, etc. according to expansion of a structural form of clothes as multi-functionality and versatility tools, and seeks a design form that can be reconstructed. The research that geared toward environmental changes should be further progressed in order to produce apparel that have efficient adaptability of any climate situations.
A Study on Garu Makeup and Its Perception of College Students Majoring In Beauty Art
Moon, Jung-Eun ; Jeon, Yeun-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 110~124
As modern society leads to distinguished, sensuous, and diversity styles, a woman who enjoys putting on Garu makeup appeared on a popular TV talk show in winter 2010, which aroused public interest in the method of Garu makeup. However, as interest in Garu makeup and individuals who put on Garu makeup spread, some began to consider Garu makeup as the imitation of indiscreet Japanese culture or a vulgar culture. Thus the purposes of this study is to understand the characteristics of Garu makeup and its forms of expression by considering its type, origin and style. In turn, this study will provide basic data for the makeup trend and act as an aid to improve the image of Garu makeup through investigating its image and preference. To accomplish this purpose, this study reviewed relevant literatures and web resources, conducted a survey of students who study beauty art at two-year junior colleges in Seoul, and analyzed 195 answers by using SPSS 18.0. The results are as follows: It was proved that in the preliminary inspection of comprehension, 98.3% of college students majoring in beauty art had known Garu makeup, 53% understood somewhat the characteristic and concept of Garu makeup, 36.8% gave preference to Garu makeup. It was proved that in the investigation by the image of Garu makeup, as over 70% of students thought that Ogaru and Yamamba makeup were detestable, but other Garus were lovely and sexy, students perceived as a diversity of images by their own preferences and tastes, and 73% of respondents selected Onegaru as Garu makeup that they gave preference to and wanted to put on. The result of this study represents that mass consumers in the existing culture, who are college students majoring in beauty art and selected as a sample group in this study, reflect the stream of culture and trend, but also demassification, mass customization by their areas of interests and preferences and connective massification of individuals with similar interests.
Sumuk Style in Contemporary Fashion and the Development of Korean Fashion Cultural Products Applied Sumuk Technique
Lee, Hye-Won ; Cha, Hye-In ; Jang, Young-Sun ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 125~134
Sumuk drawings are made with water and muk(墨), which are used to express the light, shade and texture of an object. The expression methods of oriental drawing can be divided into three methods: pictorialization, abstractness and realism. The method of pictorialization expresses traditional pictures or letters. Abstractness show an artist's aesthetic feeling through sprinkling, splashing and spreading diffusion of muk. The method of realism is Takbon which makes a copy painting directly from a monument by rubbing a paper with ink. Modern fashion designer attempts to develop a new Sumuk technique based on both oriental drawing style and western watercolor painting style. Rather than following the designated styles of oriental drawings and Korean drawings, new Sumuk technique colors detailed structures expressed as outlines, dots and lines or creates abstract patterns through spreading or spilling in showing theme of flowers, plants and insects. In this study, in order to develop fashion cultural products with Sumuk technique, rubbed copy of the ancient 'Emile bell Takbon' was used. For this study, with the combination of different colors and the patterns from 'Emile bell Takbon', designs for scarfs, shirts and one-piece dresses were created. These techniques enabled to express soft and strong Takbon image in simple Sumuk technique in harmony with modern trends.
A Study on the Historical Research of the Leading Costume in 'Seodong Tale'
Kim, Moon-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 61, issue 7, 2011, Pages 135~151
The purpose of this study is to research the costume styles during the Silla(新羅), and Paekje dynasty[百濟] in 'Seodong tale'. In those days, costume form, color, pattern, and ornaments played an important role in representing the differences in social status. The Methodology of this study is reviewing and researching the symbolic meaning and classifying the types of the style of the Costume in 'Seodong tale' through the antique records and tombs bequests and expressing the clothing of the appearance people in the picture. This study is about the costume styles representing the differences in social status during the Silla and Baekje dynasty in 'Seodong tale'. Sedong wore 'Heug Geon(黑巾)' and 'Yu', 'Ko(袴)'. The king of Silla, Jinpyung wore Tree and Antler-typed Diadem and 'Po(袍)' with 'GwaDae(銙帶)' and Earrings, Necklaces, Rings. The servant of Baekje wore 'Eunmhwakwansik[silver crown]' and 'Jangyu' bound the silver belt and 'Ko'. Silla Princess of the court, Seonhwa wore Feathered Trim with Conical hat, and 'Yu' bound the belt and 'SangdongChima' and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets, Rings. Sedong's mother's hair style was 'Eonjeunmeori' and wore 'Yu' and 'Ko'. The queen of Baeje, Seonhwa wore 'Keumhwasik[Gold crown]', and 'Po' bound the belt and Earrings, Necklaces, Bracelets.