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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 62, Issue 8 - Dec 2012
Volume 62, Issue 7 - Nov 2012
Volume 62, Issue 6 - Sep 2012
Volume 62, Issue 5 - Aug 2012
Volume 62, Issue 4 - Jun 2012
Volume 62, Issue 3 - Apr 2012
Volume 62, Issue 2 - Feb 2012
Volume 62, Issue 1 - Jan 2012
Selecting the target year
A Semantic Analysis of the Indeterminacy in Contemporary Fashion - Focusing on Fashion Since 2000 -
Hwang, Hye-Jin ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 1~15
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.001
In a fast changing postmodern society, contemporary fashion is becoming more complicated and ambiguous along with other genres of art than ever before. This phenomenon reigning as a sociocultural paradigm can be defined as 'indeterminacy' and it means 'undecidability'. The purpose of this study is to clarify and analyze the indeterminate characteristics of contemporary fashion reviewing the theoretical background and the architectural formativeness as a comparative research. The core idea of deconstructivism dismantles a causal relationship between function and form in fashion and the conventional notion about clothes. Complexity theory, which is the study of chaotic dynamical systems, suggests the creative idea and concept of infinite possibilities on a formative method. Meanwhile, catastrophe theory of discontinuous change can be used as interpretative strategies for the process of deconstruction and reconstruction. As a result of this study, the indeterminacy of fashion can be analyzed into five semantic categories: irregularity, immateriality, randomness, complexity and changeability. The intrinsic value of the indeterminacy in contemporary fashion is the interaction with a sociocultural ideology and a technological environment as well as an expansion of formative expression. To conclude, it can be said that the indeterminacy in fashion is a new interpretation of the relationship among body and space, clothes and society.
The Types and Features of Formal Ritual Hats for Tibetan Buddhist Priests
Kwon, Young-Suk ; Lee, Kyung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 16~30
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.016
This study examines the types and features of formal ritual hats for Tibetan Buddhist priests. Findings of the study are as follows. The types of formal hats that Tibetan Buddhist priests wear during religious rites or rituals include: u rgyan pad zhwa, pan zhwa, tshogs zhwa, rigs inga, zhwa nag, zhwa dmar and dwags zhwa. The reason why such formal ritual hats as listed above were developed is because the region had an alpine climate, and also because they were the symbolism of Buddhism, the most reverent priest, and reincarnated Buddha thoughts. They were an essential part of the culture of dressing Buddhist statues and offering utensils. Formal ritual hats' shapes originate from lotus. They are colored in red, yellow, indigo, green, white or black, that reflect the nationality and aesthetics of Tibetans. They are mainly made of woolen or silk fabrics. They are usually decorated with gold, git bronze or jewels and the patterns of the sun and the moon, vajra or clouds.
A Study on Brand Loyalty and Repurchase Intention of SPA Clothing Brand Related to Lifestyles of Female College Students
Shin, Ji-Su ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 31~43
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.031
The purposes of this study were to investigate the differences of post-purchase satisfaction, brand loyalty, and repurchase intention of SPA clothing brand according to lifestyles, and to disclose how lifestyles, post-purchase satisfaction, and brand loyalty influence the repurchase intention. The research method was a survey method using questionnaires. The subjects were 304 female college students residing in Seoul metropolitan area. The lifestyles were classified into six factors including pursuit of challenges, proactive interpersonal relationship, interest in sports, self-centeredness, interest in IT, and achievement orientation. Three female groups were derived by cluster analysis of the 6 lifestyle factors: active-activity type, passive-activity type, and achievement-pursuit type. Brand loyalty was classified into two factors including continuing loyalty and convenient loyalty. First, the active-activity group showed higher convenient loyalty than the other groups. The achievement-pursuit group showed higher post-purchase satisfaction than the other groups in appearance of clothing, while the passive-activity group showed lower satisfaction in every factor, in particular, its price satisfaction was very low. Second, senior students showed higher continuing loyalty than freshmen, sophomores, and juniors. Students with more clothing expenses showed higher continuing loyalty as well as convenient loyalty than those with less clothing expenses. Their price satisfaction with SPA clothing brand as well as repurchase intention was higher. Third, repurchase intention was influenced by brand loyalty the most, and the next in the order by satisfaction level with brand, satisfaction with price, satisfaction level with appearance, and proactive interpersonal relationship. The brand loyalty was influenced by satisfaction level with price the most, and the next by satisfaction level with appearance.
Chronological Changes of Women's Ideal Beauty through Facial Image and Fashion of Korean Actress in the Late Twentieth Century
Baek, Kyoung-Jin ; Hahn, So-Won ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 44~58
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.044
The purpose of this research is to contemplate chronological changes of Korean actress facial image and fashion from 1960s to 1990s and to identify Korean women's ideal beauty reflected through the times. Adjectives describing representative actresses of each studied decade were collected from major newspapers and magazines. Korean women's ideal beauty was divided into 4 sub-types such as youthful, pure, sophisticate, and sexy images. As a result of analyzing actress facial image and fashion, youthful and pure beauties were found consistently over the studied periods. Representative characteristics of sophisticate and sexy beauties have been changed over the studied periods which were influenced by socio-cultural environment factors. The result of this research can provide meaningful sources for historical drama, celebrity marketing strategy planning, and personal image consulting.
Development of Cultural Products Based on Minhwa of the Joseon Dynasty - Focusing on Lotus Flower Painting -
Jang, Hyun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 59~72
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.059
This study aims to collect Minhwa, or folk painting, particularly the Lotus Flower Painting, to analyze its formative characteristics and related story, and to develop cultural fashion products by utilizing Korean traditional culture and modern flavor based on the results. Lotus flowers grow from mud, but are unstained, and they bloom beautiful flowers. Thus, they symbolize Gunja, a true gentleman who is very learned and proper in behavior. In Buddhism, lotus flowers are divine flowers that have the meaning of the creation of life and the eternal cycle of birth, death and rebirth. Lotus flowers also represent the love between man and woman as well as conjugal harmony and love. Lotus flower painting includes the paintings of the lotus flower alone as well as the paintings of the lotus flower with ducks, white heron, kingfisher, fish, butterfly, crab, or tortoise. Colors that are mostly used in lotus flower paintings is the compatible combination of red and blue (green). Based on these findings, fashion products such as bag accessories, sitting cushions, and kitchen utensils are developed using various designs such as realistically drawn lotus flower, schematized lotus flower, the lotus flower alone, or the lotus flower with kingfisher, crab, or dragonfly, that emphasizing the compatible color combination of red and blue.
A Study on the Aesthetics of Dart Manipulation for Women's Body Types in Their 30's - Focused on the Bodice Prototypes -
Jeong, Jae-Chul ; Kwon, Soon-Kyo ; Park, Sun-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 73~87
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.073
The purpose of this study is to find the Dart Manipulation with good fitting and evaluate the aesthetics of Dart Manipulation that is used in the designs of the original tops for women in their 30's. Subsequently, it suggests dart manipulation with good body fitting and physical fitness when designing original tops. The findings of this study are as follows. First, in the fitting of Dart Manipulation for different body types, cross direction Dart Manipulation received good marks in the Square Body Type while mixed direction and diagonal direction Dart Manipulation received high evaluation in the Standard Body Type. Also, for the Reverse Triangle Body Type, mixed direction Dart Manipulation received high marks. Since there are only small changes in fitting for the Square Body Type, the position of Dart Manipulation should be determined in regards to the aesthetic view as well as the fitting of the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type. Second, in the fitness of Dart Manipulation for different body types, an approach from the aesthetic view should be considered for Square Body Types because of the differences in fitness according to the position of dart manipulation. The fitness should be considered when positioning Dart Manipulation for the Standard Body Type and Reverse Triangle Body Type because of these differences. Third, for the greater variance of drop for these different body types, the change of the amount of dart received lower evaluation in fitting since the amount of dart increased when the dart was located higher than B.P. The number of dart should likely increase when gathering or tucking is necessary when there is an excessive amount of dart in Dart Manipulation for the different body types. Fourth, as for the changes of wrinkles in accordance with the body type, wrinkles were likely to be formed at the breast or neck area when there was a larger difference in drop. To prevent such problems, one more dart should be made on the wrinkle. In conclusion, the study suggests designing the original top with a better look and comfort by setting the balance between aesthetics and fitting in the design stage.
A Study on the Organic Loungewear Design followed by the LOHAS Trend
Kim, Jung-Hee ; Jeon, Hyun-Sil ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 88~95
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.088
These days, the lifestyle of staycation, a holiday in which an individual or family stays and relaxes at home, or possibly taking day trips to local parks and museums and so on, has increased. For this reason, the market of loungewear has expanded and the meaning of it has developed as a separate home-wear. According to the reflection of this trend, various kinds of loungewear are sold from the internal and external brands; however, most of these loungewears are home-wear and have a training look where esthetic designs are needed. This study is done to benefit those who prefer organic products, known as LOHAS trend. In addition, we developed the loungewear fashion design products, which reflect the LOHAS trend that uses organic cotton for the S/S collection of 2012. The formation of space between body and textile by pleats in these designs on pants, skirts, tops, sleeves, capes connote the meaning of loungewear that give the wearers comfort. As a result of this study, we have reached these final conclusions. First, loungewear is suitable for featuring the human body structure. Second, organic costumes can be preferable and become superior if it combines both functional and aesthetic appreciations. Third, eco-costumes can become more of a formal wear as eco-design achieves qualitative improvement.
A study on the influence of Baekje costumes on Japanese costumes in ancient times
Kim, Moon-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 96~107
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.096
In ancient times, immigrants from Baekje wore various kinds of costumes that provided technological and aesthetic guidance for the Japanese costume, which has been modified and changed in Japan. The clothing and ornaments were strongly influenced directly by costumes of the Baekje period; therefore, many of the Japanese costumes at that time were crafted in the Baekje style. Through the antique records, paintings of tombs and bequests, we were able to find similarities between Baekje and Japan costumes in these categories: clothes, headgear, belt hooks and belt plaques, bronze shoes, and ornaments. (1) Clothes : They wore high-shaped hat and jacket and trousers(;袴) tied the bottom. (2) Headgear : There was a gilt bronze Conical Cap attached to the long tube with terminals in the shape of a hemisphere. (3) Belt hooks and belt plaques: There were horse-shaped belt hooks in mane styles and a checkered pattern on the lower part of the haunch and a belt Plaque shaped like the face of an animal. (4) Gilt bronze shoes: They were made with the style that had two side plates fixed in the instep side and heel-side. (5) Ornaments : They were made with flower-shaped plaques and spiral-shaped decorations. One earring was made with a three-winged pendent that were connected in a chain style and the others were in unique forms that were made by connecting narrow rings and a heart-shaped pendent.
The Political and Social Statement through Fashion Design
Ko, Hyun-Zin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 108~124
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.108
The purpose of this study is to examine the political and social statements through fashion design, by comparing with more activated statements in the general design area. To achieve this, the documentary study and practical case study have been executed. First of all, the meaning of design politics was defined and the cases of design practice of political and social statements were reviewed and classified historically. Traditionally, designs have been inextricably linked with political authorities and ideologies. As propaganda, it has been used for power authority to seize power and maintain dominance. On the contrary, they could be an instrument to resist and criticize against contemporary power authority and dominant. Next, the political and social statements were traced historically through fashion design on the basis of the two previously reviewed categories. And then, comparing political and social statements between design and fashion design, the contents and ways of their expressions were similar. In design, there were more various ways when the designers were leading collective behavior, but in fashion design, there were more leading voices of socio-political organizations and resistant counter culture groups. Now, new trends are rising constantly where individual designers' creations express many different socio-political beliefs. This study which inquires designers' political and social involvement will be helpful in making people rethink the social role of fashion design and encouraging conscious fashion design activism.
A Study on Stage Costumes of Creative Musical 'Hyecho' - Focus on the Costumes of the Chorus -
Kim, Jang-Hyeon ; Kim, Young-Sam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 125~137
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.125
This study examines the stage costumes of the creative musical 'Hyecho', which was performed six times in the Chung Ang Art Center hosted by Chung-Ang University's performance & media agency from December 20 to 22 in 2006. The stage costumes were made based on these basic design elements of stage costumes that were dyed : line, silhouette, material, and color. First, the creative musical 'Hyecho' presents a new form of fusion theatre, which blends Korean traditional music and dance with videos. Thereby, the musical has opened a new phase in Korea's creative performing arts. Second, in musical performances that combines dance and songs, stage costumes should be made not only to attract the audience's eyes, but also not to interrupt actors' vocalizations and movements by taking their physical features into account. Also, costumes should be made in consideration of their relationships with visual elements, including stage settings and lighting. Third, the musical features fusion-style stage costumes, which combines Hanbok, the Korean traditional costume, and Indian traditional costumes with modern costumes. For the line and silhouette, costumes show the beauty of curves through the curves of Hanbok and India's traditional costumes and also through irregular pleats of pants. Also, by using cotton materials, which is easy to dye and not readily deformed, costumes feature colors that are found in nature through a gradation dyeing technique. In doing so, it offers visual amusement to the audience by making stage costumes look like a beautiful painting. Fourth, the stage costumes of the chorus feature costumes that use lining and pleated skirts using belts, and various accessories, including necklaces that use strings in order to express evil spirits. Since there is not much time to change costumes during a performance, using such items are helpful to show the unique characteristics of actors effectively during the limited time. Also, coordinating with the lighting director allows the costume designer to make better costumes for the chorus and make the performance more dramatic. Finally, it was not necessary to wash the costumes of the chorus of the fusion musical Hyecho 2006 since it was performed only six times. However, when using dyed costumes for the long-term performance, it might cause problems such as bleaching that result from the washing of costumes and low durability that can result in the deformation of costumes. As performing arts are made in various forms and are diversified, it is needed for stage costumes to change accordingly through new attempts and various ways of expression.
Study on Manufacturing Exaggerated Jacket Pattern Shown in Women's Collections 2011 F/W
Lee, Se-Jong ; Kwak, Tai-Gi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 138~155
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.138
Exaggerations have always been seen in the past and present. In the past, they represented wealth and high social status, but now they are being used to express one's beauty and personality. This has led to the diversity in design through widening each person's emotions. Likewise, exaggerations have been changed from the past to the present and so will they in the future. This study focuses on proposing patterns to enhance the utility and practical use of exaggerated jacket designs and its methods are based on documents and preceded studies. Pattern making is composed of drawing patterns and showing their forms by basting - which are a technique that is explained in this study's outcome - and the basic pattern is the style of Wan Suk. Suh. Jackets are made with exaggerating factors in the women's collections of 2011 F/W and are designed for various ages. With the knowledge of structuring a jacket, anyone could easily follow the instructions. In the end, he/she could elevate the ability to express, use practically and apply this idea in general fields of fashion industry.
A Study of the Function and the Current State of Fashion Museum for Construction of Korean Fashion Museum
Park, Ju-Hee ; Choy, Hyon-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 156~170
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.156
These days, fashion museums that were established during the 60~70s in advanced countries are spiritedly planning opportune exhibitions as well as opening collections and accumulated research materials to the public. They are also publishing innovative visual references and offering various educational programs. They play a crucial role in speeding up the development of creativity of fashion designers by accumulating archives through analytic researches. Since Korea has applied western fashion for over a century, now is the time to make a fundamental long-term plan for establishing the identity of Korean fashion by gathering and classifying the history of a century. Thus, the aim of this study is to reach a conclusion to construct fashion museum in Korea to discover as well as develop fashion talents and eventually enhancing national competitiveness. First, the theoretical study on the history and the functions of fashion museum were analysed. 'The collection & exhibition' in the common thread is one function of the fashion museum. Another function is 'the research', which includes accumulations, classification and record of materials in a particular point of view. It also includes publishing catalogues with temporary exhibitions and open management to the scholars and the designers. 'The communication', which is enacted through various educational programs and events for inflow of new visitors, is the other function of fashion museum. The current state of fashion museums in advanced countries and Korea were also analysed. Korean public museums only owned traditional collections while public fashion museums in other advanced countries usually owned collection of the past and the present together. The only contemporary fashion museum in Korea is run private which leads to many problems. Finally, The study went further to suggest the advanced model of fashion museum in Korea based on the research.
The Influences of Consumer's Brand Attitude on Brand Clothes Purchasing Behavior in On-line Mall
Ji, Hye-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 5, 2012, Pages 171~180
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.5.171
Purchasing behavior of brand clothes in internet shopping mall is largely used on the purpose of having a good quality of clothing, price advantage and shopping efficiency. This study aims to find out consumer's evaluation on the properties of brand clothes in internet shopping mall according to consumer's brand attitude(brand identification and brand pursue value). The influences consumers' evaluation of the properties of brand clothes on the purchase satisfaction and off-line brand image evaluation were also investigated. This study surveyed male and female consumers in their 20s~40s for empirical analysis in August 2011 who have purchased brand clothing through internet shopping malls. The survey was conducted on 254 subjects who were selected through online convenience sampling. Data were analyzed by using SPSS for Windows 12.0, and descriptive statistics, reliability analysis, factor analysis, and regression analysis were done as well. The results are as follows. First, it was identified that consumers' brand identification and brand pursue value had significant influence on the evaluation of physical, functional, and expressional product properties. Second, it was identified that consumers' evaluation on the brand clothing properties significantly influenced on internet purchase satisfaction and brand image evaluation. Especially, expressive property of brand clothes appeared to be the most influential factor on purchase satisfaction and brand image evaluation. The results of this study will help clothing companies with prestigious brand names to administer the product qualities with differentiation policy from off-line sales and satisfy the consumer needs in internet shopping, hence enhancing the brand image of the company.