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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 62, Issue 8 - Dec 2012
Volume 62, Issue 7 - Nov 2012
Volume 62, Issue 6 - Sep 2012
Volume 62, Issue 5 - Aug 2012
Volume 62, Issue 4 - Jun 2012
Volume 62, Issue 3 - Apr 2012
Volume 62, Issue 2 - Feb 2012
Volume 62, Issue 1 - Jan 2012
Selecting the target year
The Characteristic of the Clothing behavior of Gay Men According to Gay Identity - Focusing on the Drama
Lee, Min-Sun ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 1~18
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.001
This study explores the clothing behavior of homosexual men for identity creation. Since homosexuality has been viewed in terms of immoral, medical or social problems, gay males have made efforts to construct presentational styles in order to hide or reveal their sexual identities. Kate Schofield and Ruth A. Schmidt found that there were three different layers of individual gay identity construction expressed in clothing: shared gay identity, tribal identity, and situational identity. Using their framework, 630 gay men's outfits found in the U.S drama 'Queer as folk' were analyzed, which dealt with the lives of a group of gay men living in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Findings point that gay males use their clothing effectively to express their sexual identity. Firstly, they use certain fashion items as the signifier of homosexuality on a gay community level. They use their clothing to attract the sexual partners. On tribal identity level, diverse and fragmented styles could be shown besides the effeminate style. Homosexual men's clothing can be classified into the following four dominate styles: the drag look, the macho look, the androgynous look and conventional look. Findings also indicate that gay males make different clothing choices for different situations in order to blend into the heterosexual or homosexual society.
The Image and Color Characteristic of Fashion Tinged with Beige
Seo, In-Kyung ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 19~37
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.019
This study was done to define the color range, images and color characteristics of beige in fashion by analyzing the characteristics of beige that appears in contemporary fashion. In reference research, the general characteristics, the color name and range of beige was examined. In investigation research, color characteristics and images of beige that appear in contemporary fashion was defined, and it was discovered that the cases that the use of beige took more than 50% of the entire in the major collection from S/S season in 2007 to F/W season in 2010 as the subject of color analysis. The result of the study could be summarized as follows: First, the color range of beige consisted of the standard color from 2.5YR to 5YR, and color tone was pale and light gray. Second, the analysis of color beige that appear in contemporary fashion didn't show big differences according to year, season, and region. The color tones consisted of light grayish, pale, light, soft focusing colors from 5YR to 10YR. As for the arrangement of colors, it was arranged with black and it was used with the affiliation of YR, R, Y in many cases. Third, beige monochromatic image appeared soft, plain and classic. The arrangement of the image, modern, feminine, luxurious, gentle, intelligent five types were derived. Arrangements with achromatic colors were expressed in contemporary and sophisticated styles and arrangements with chromatic colors appeared to be soft, feminine and luxurious. This study draws the result to apply the fashion image of beige that was insufficient in other various color researches to design various color aspects by defining the image of beige that appears in contemporary fashion. Based on practical analysis for the color beige, it is evident that beige is an important factor and a powerful influence on fashion images.
A Study of the International Color Sensibility through the Analysis of the Ethnic Color Preference
Jo, Eun-Young ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 38~52
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.038
The purpose of this study is to confirm the international unique color sensibility according to the ethnic color preferences. The existing studies about color sensibility were investigated to analyze the international color sensibility. The countries were chosen according to its, strong regional and racial color. Also, the documents and websites about environment color such as structure color, natural feature color, traditional folk costume color and customary color names were investigated, and then, the international color sensibility was analyzed by using the color image scale. As a result of the analysis about the differences of color sensibility, internationally distinguished color sensibility was discovered. There were differences not only for the preference trend of hue but also for the tone or contrast of color among the selected countries. Especially, Great Britain had a strong preference for G categories that they preferred the warm-grayish color image. Russia has a preference for R, G, and B categories with the preference for the warm-clear image. Netherlands had a preference for R, Y, and PB categories and it preferred the cool-hard-grayish, warm-soft-clear image. Italy had a preference for R and Y categories and it preferred the warm-clear image. Morocco had a preference for R and B categories and it preferred the warm and cool, clear image. Japan had a preference for R, G categories and it preferred the warm-grayish image. Korea had a preference for R and B categories and it preferred the warm-soft-clear, and cool-clear image. With these results, the researcher concludes that the integrated analysis of the environment color and the traditional racial color factors are very persuasive methods to comprehend the international color sensibility.
A Study on the Textiles of Female Chima·Jeogori in the 20th Century
Cho, Hyo-Sook ; Lim, Hyun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 53~66
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.053
This study analyzed the fabrics of Chima, Jeogori of the 20th century. It was based on Kyungwoon Museum relics, newspaper articles and photographs. This research focused on the transition process that has been organized into three stages. The first stage is from the opening of a port to the colonial period in Korea. By this time, the casual wear Hanbok was made with the traditional cotton and woolen textiles in addition to quite a lot of upscale clothing textiles. Stage two is from 1970s to the period after the liberation and Western Costumes represent the time of when the suit was mixed. At the time of the war, due to social and economic difficulties, convenience and practicality were emphasized rather than focusing on aesthetic characteristics. Third period is from the 1980s to the 1990s when the Hanbok was no longer considered a casual wear. Instead, its high quality and elegance redefined it to be a formal wear.
Developing a Scale for Measuring the Social Responsibility of a Fashion Brand
Kang, Ji-Hyun ; Kim, Hyun-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 67~79
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.067
Much of the conceptual work in the field of Corporate Social Responsibility(CSR) originated from studies that were conducted in general corporations; however, many issues were peculiar to the area of fashion brand social responsibility. The purpose of this study is to develop a scale to measure the social responsibility of fashion brands in order to establish a specific, scientifically based marketing strategy. Through a literature review that disclosed 59 items regarding CSR and results from focus group interviews and exploratory factor analyses, we developed 23 items pertaining to fashion brand social responsibility. The measurement items were organized into five dimensions: economic, legal, ethical, environmental, and philanthropic responsibility. We found the 23-item scale to have good reliability and validity. We also found that fashion brand social responsibility positively influenced brand loyalty, including repurchase intention, continuance intention, and word of mouth. Thus, strategic planning for social responsibility in regards to fashion brands is essential in order to secure loyal customers, for both domestic and foreign brands compete in the fashion market.
A Study on the Costume View of Seo Yu-Gu - Focused on the Analysis of 「Seomyongji」 'Boksikjigu' -
Cha, Seo-Yeon ; Chang, Dong-Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 80~97
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.080
This study empirically examined Seo Yu-gu's views on constumes that are based on 'Boksikjigu[服飾之具]' of Seomyongji[贍用志] in Imwonkyungjeji[林園經濟志]. In 'Boksikjigu', Seo Yu-gu explained different situations and problems that were related to costumes and proposed solutions for the problems. This study examined the contents, and divide the items into caps, accessories, and clothes. The results of this study were as follows. First, Seo Yu-gu in he rited the tradition of erudition. Seo Yu-gu classified various costume items systematically, and explained in detail about the origin, history and materials of the costume items. Second, he emphasized frugality, effective use, and welfare. Seo Yu-gu argued that the sleeves should be shortened for convenience and tried to improve practicality in the functional aspect. Also, he wanted to enrich people's life by improving the convenience of goods used in daily life. Third, he tried to establish identity as a Confucian intellect. This idea was clearly shown in 'costumes'; therefore, they served as evidences that Seo Yu-gu used to correct wrong practices through precise historical investigation and review of Shim-ui[深衣], the symbol of the practice of Jujagarye[朱子家禮]. In his later years, he discovered the plain dress that was worn as a casual wear by ZhuXi[朱熹]and tried to wear it in dailylife.
A Study of Hanbok Object in Ballet Performance - Focus on the Performance 'La, Chun-hyang' -
Lee, Ji-Yeon ; Soh, Hwang-Oak ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 98~111
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.098
The purpose of this study is to examine how the Hanbok is expressed in the ballet performances through the 'La, Chun-hyang', a classic Korean ballet. 'La, Chun-hyang', was performed from 2009 and 2010, but there were some differences in choreography by the director's intention. According to these changes, the methods of expression of ballet objects were changed as well. Therefore, totally different personalities were shown despite the fact that theses were same performances. Every costume objects in dance performances like the ballet can be used to express the story and the characters. Moreover, the object designs of Hanbok portray creativity and originality that simultaneously refers to history. In order for stage costume objects to popularize, the making method and process have to be developed like the objects of the Hanbok that signified historicity.
A Study of Dress Characteristics with Respect to Anti-Social Resisting Consciousness - Focus on the Relationship between 18th Century Sans-Culotte and a Hippy Style During the 1960s and 1970s as a Comparative Perspective -
Jun, Yuh-Sun ; Kim, Young-Sam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 112~126
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.112
The style of a dress allows important characterization of an era since they reflect contemporary politics, society, culture and arts. Within a same category, period costumes develop into styles that reflect specific consciousness. The research method and the scope of the study are as follows: the research adopts a historical study method and a comparative research from a microscopic point. The scope includes resistance costumes that proceed with sans-culotte that comprises of the resistance party during the 18th French Revolution (1783-1799), and also a Hippy style which was popularized during the 1960s and 1970s for its anti-war movement. We researched both similarities and differences of design factors reflecting resisting consciousness in costumes that affected costume characteristics related to their socio-cultural background. Sans-culotte and the Hippie style reflect a common denominator in anti-social resisting customs. First, they show common characteristics that combine fashion trends of resistant element and design features. Second, they have common features which are the characteristics of deviation. On the other hand, these two customs also present a discriminative denominator in anti-social resisting customs. In the case of sans-culotte, they tend to symbolize confrontation by dividing into two equal parts: the old and new mode. Sans-culotte confronts the conventional mode and promotes practical costume styles based on justice standpoints. First, hippies pursue an exposition of individual emotions that disclose internal meanings of love and desire. Second, they focus on subjective characteristics and chase after masteries and pleasures by expressing intensity. Third, it extends and develops folk costumes from many countries that reveal ethnic trends. Therefore, this research compares and contrasts different changes in the fashions of revolutionary periods, and aims to recognize the relationship between design and costume characteristics, thus contributing to the predictions of future changes in fashion.
Comparing Korean Cosmetics Purchase Behavior of Japanese and Chinese Tourists
Kim, Chan-Ju ; Yu, Hae-Kyung ; Kim, Hee-Ra ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 127~138
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.127
The number of Japanese and Chinese tourists visiting Korea has been increasing rapidly and cosmetics is one of the most popular shopping items for tourists. The purpose of this study was to examine factors affecting the cosmetic purchase of Japanese and Chinese female tourists in Korea and compare their purchase behaviors. Questionnaires were collected from December 12, 2010 to February 15, 2011 from the tourists visiting Myeongdong and duty free shops in Seoul. 126 responses from Japanese and 163 from Chinese tourists were used in the final analysis. There were significant differences in many aspects between the two groups. Chinese tourists were satisfied with Korean cosmetics more and found them to be more favorable, and were more active in information searches than Japanese tourists except in a few aspects. Hallyu (Korean wave) had a powerful influence on Korean cosmetics purchase behavior for both Japanese and Chinese tourists, but its effect was stronger among Chinese tourists.
Study about Utilizing the Wedding Dress Virtual Fitting Application Content
O, Ji-Hye ; Lee, In-Seong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 139~153
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.139
To prolong the rapid progress of IT, it is necessary to develop contents through IT convergence among the existing goods & service and process areas to create new added-values. In particular, the wedding dress industry has infinite potential in utilizing various contents like virtual fitting by connecting with newly compelling IT areas such as smart phones, Augmented Reality (AR), and application contents. In the meantime, a large scale of the wedding industry has gained global competitiveness due to consulting expertise and the influence of the Korean Wave, whereas most small-sized wedding dress shops in Korea fall short of developing wedding dress designs and receiving relevant information. Accordingly, the purpose of this study was to help brides who have difficulties in choosing a wedding dress by decreasing their time and effort by providing wedding dress designs and information, according their desired image, body type, and circumstances through the utilization of virtual fitting application contents. Not only that, this study aims to diversify and specialize in wedding information and to help users to set a guideline for wedding dresses that are most suitable for them. Moreover, this study has an academic meaning in proposing an interdisciplinary convergence research model through the study of wedding dress design development, AR, and application contents utilization.
Research on the Saekdong in the late 20th Century on the magazines
Kim, Yeo-Kyung ; Kim, Jeong-Min ; Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 154~164
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.154
The purpose of this study was to investigate the modernizations of traditional Saekdong by analyzing the magazines from the 1955 to 1995. The application of Saekdong extended during the 1950s. Before, Saekdong was only used for children; however, women were wearing it during this period. With the advancement of the fabric industry in the 1960s, a great popularity of Saekdong was witnessed and its application extended even further. During the 1970s, the Saekdong was applied in westernized clothes; however, the 1980s was a time of renaissance for Saekdong as the awakening of national identity movement began. The application of Saekdong in westernized clothes became more popular during the 1990s as the widespread of industrial designing was inspired by the tradition. The functional aspect of Saekdong such as recycling the leftover fabrics decreased over the years whereas the decorative aspect increased. The form of Saekdong became more variant. The Saekdong was applied either as a part or whole of the clothes. With the development of the mechanically woven Saekdong, various widths and forms of Saekdong, not only vertical lines but also diagonal and wave lines, appeared. The colors also changed. During the 1990s, low chroma and gradation methods were applied. Gold and silver threads also were woven together. The motifs were created and gilts were printed on Saekdong.
A Study on the Formative Character of Maximalism Shown in the Works of Alexander McQueen
Lee, Ji-Hyun ; Roh, Youn-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 165~181
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.165
Alexander McQueen is a typical designer of unconventional and experimental design who showed maximalism through outstanding tailoring. The purpose of this research is to study formative characteristics of maximalism that are expressed in modern fashion based on the works of Alexander McQueen, and to suggest boundless possibilities of development through his sense of design and the expressive ability of his works. Theoretical considerations will be made through literature research and precedent studies, and the collection data for case analysis will be used to select ready-to-wear women's collections from 2001 S/S to 2010 F/W by referring to internet sites. The study results are as follows. First, the most representative characteristic of formative characteristics of maximalism expressed in Alexander McQueen's works is expandability. Second, decorations used as a part of detail on clothes is used as decoration itself, and handcraft expression is shown through excessive use of decorations. The expandability of decoration that emphasizes splendid magnificence is expressed through flawless technique. Third, the fusion of each different image and the combination of ethnic image and modern image was most prevalent. Fourth, fantasy expresses a fictive image that could not be seen in reality by expressing an unrealistic and maximized image through the imagination of designer. Fifth, experimental element is expressed as an image that actively reflects the challenging spirit, which suggests a new direction of beauty through shocking and extraordinary images of the inner world of the designer and the root of new ideas about inhumane modern society.
The Study of Costume Exhibition in Architectural Structures Heritage - Focused on Seoul, Incheon, Gyonggi-do -
Kwon, Soo-Hyun ; Kang, Soon-Che ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 182~199
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.182
The purpose of this study is to analyze the actual status of costume exhibitions displayed in architectural structures heritage today to examine if they play proper roles as visual materials and suggest the necessity of post-management for comfortable viewing. This is significant in that it makes costume exhibitions function as educational culture contents to let Korean and also foreign viewers know of our costume culture properly. As a research method, the database of the Office of Cultural Properties homepage was used to extract anything related to the lives of figures during the Chosun Dynasty among the architectural structures heritages in Seoul, Incheon, and Gyeonggido. By doing so, the costume exhibitions were able to be examined among them. With field investigation and interviews of related institutions, this study examined the current status of costume exhibitions, planning of exhibitions, and post-management. Also, they found costume exhibitions that were not right for the era, and suggested ways that were more appropriate for them. The results of this study were as follows : First, according to the third selection results, there were only six among 71 places where three districts of the architectural structures heritage were present. This is a very small quantity of places when compared with the total number of architectural structures heritage. Second, as a result of the current condition investigation, the costume exhibition in the Architectural Structures Heritage is not nearly enough for a historical investigation, and almost all polluted costumes were not displayed in suitable environments for an exhibition. Therefore, qualified managers who have expertise in exhibition planning were needed to be trained to do a post-management follow up. Furthermore, it is important to systematically reorganize post-management methods. Third, the two selected places(Haepung-buwongun-yuntaegyeong-jaesi and Sunaedong-gaok) were thought not to be right for the era among the six places with costume exhibitions, and suggestions such as flat-drawing and illustration were made.
The Grid System of Women's Jeogori in Joseon Dynasty
Han, Eun-Hye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 200~217
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.200
The purpose of this research is to examine the specificity of grids to define the characteristics of clothes styles in the Joseon Dynasty period. The significance of examining of the specificity of grids is to find out arbitrary types of the features of grids involved in structuring the Jeogori in the Joseon Dynasty period one by one. The Visual Linguistic Theory was introduced as a methodological tool to exquisitely analyze the characteristics of grids in deep structures of Jeogori in the Joseon Dynasty period. This theory strives to examine sample distribution, the distribution of samples by quality and the distribution of the types of ploidy features. Through the examination, the results are as follows. The grid systems of the Jeogori consisted of diverse proportion systems reaching 86 cases, that is, sequence systems composed of multi-functional, multi-combined bodies. Most ornamental grids had feature angles distributed in a range of
that showed a common preference for low sloped diagonal lines or small curvature. Although the preference for certain feature angles were prominent, the feature angles that were used were generally distributed evenly among diverse feature angles to show the characteristics of separation. Therefore, Jeogori makers in the Joseon Dynasty period can be considered as having experimented with many proportion systems to show their aesthetics. In conclusion, based on the results of the examination of feature distributions and related methods to allocate ploidy features, O-type accounted for 66% and thus it was identified that the Jeogori was characterized by O-type. Therefore, it was identified that the characteristic of the Jeogori in the Joseon Dynasty period consisted of O-type fractal structures which are formative structures unique to our nation.
Characteristics of Woman's Jogori through the costumes excavated from ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) grave and preserved in Yeoju Museum Gyeounggi Province, Korea
Song, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 6, 2012, Pages 218~230
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.6.218
The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle
Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle
Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle
Century where not much excavations have been made.