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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 62, Issue 8 - Dec 2012
Volume 62, Issue 7 - Nov 2012
Volume 62, Issue 6 - Sep 2012
Volume 62, Issue 5 - Aug 2012
Volume 62, Issue 4 - Jun 2012
Volume 62, Issue 3 - Apr 2012
Volume 62, Issue 2 - Feb 2012
Volume 62, Issue 1 - Jan 2012
Selecting the target year
The Analysis on the Trend of the Women's Wear Researches - In Consideration of the Apparel Related Journals Publication Listed on the KCI(Korea Citation Index) from 2001 to 2010 -
Park, Se Hee ; Park, Gin Ah ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 1~18
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.001
The purpose of the study was to offer in-depth understanding of the women's wear research trend in South Korea and thus to provide insights from the findings throughout the study to set appropriate directions for further development of women's wear related researches in the clothing and textile study area. The study considered research papers published by the 6 major apparel related journals listed on the KCI(Korea Citation Index) i.e. journals of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles(KSCT), the Korean Society of Costume(KSC), the Costume Culture Association (CCA), the Korean Society of Fashion Business(KSFB), the Korean Home Economics Association (KHEA) and the Korean Society for Clothing Industry(KSCI). A total of 380 research papers that were related with women's wear published from 2001 to 2010 were selected for the study and analyzed in the form of descriptive statistics using the SPSS Software ver. 18.0. The analysis was categorized according to the journals, years and research theme. The research themes were divided into various categories such as, clothing construction, textile science, fashion aesthetics and design, costume history and culture, apparel psychology and fashion marketing. The results derived from the research were: (1) the ratio of the research papers on the women's wear to the total papers published from 2001 to 2010 by the 6 subject journals was 380 to 6,815, i.e. 5.6% of the total papers; (2) journal of KSCT published the most women's wear research papers (N=149, 39.2%) and then the rest in order were the journal of CCA (N=69, 18.2%), the journal of KSC (N=68, 17.9%), the journal of KSFB (N=52, 13.7%), the journal of KHEA (N=39, 10.3%) and the journal of KSCI (N=3, 0.7%); (3) the proportions of the research themes for the women's wear study were in the order of the case study in marketing (N=135, 35.5%), body measurements and sizing systems in clothing construction (N=88, 23.2%), fashion design and aesthetics (N=83, 21.8%), pattern-making (N=63, 16.6%), and color study (N=11, 2.9%) and so on.
Study on Shinyeojuryeom through Historical Documents and Scientific Analysis
Kim, Sunyoung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 19~27
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.019
Shinyeojuryeom is a set of bamboo blinds[Juryeom] enclosing the Korean litter for transporting a mortuary tablet of royal family[Shinyeo] in Joseon dynasty. The blinds were made up of twigs laid horizontally which were joined together by vertical threading, then they were lined and backed with silk fabric. A number of historical documents such as Gukjosangryebopyeon(1758), JeongjoGukjangdogameuigwe(1800) and Gukjangdogam- myeongseseo(1905) provide information on material and structure of the litter and blinds. How- ever, detailed dimensions or specific ingredients of some of the materials were not clearly explained. In order to complement these missing or unclear parts, a close examination and scientific analysis of the litter's material was undertaken. The result newly identified materials of the gold tip tassels and pigments used on twigs as well as partly confirmed information on historical records. This new information will help further understanding and future production of a replica.
A Study of the National Aesthetic Tastes in Global SPA Brands
Suh, Sung-Eun ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 28~44
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.028
The aim of this research is to examine the tendency of national tastes reflected in global SPA brands based on the theories of Gans' taste culture and Bourdieu's cultural capital. In this study, the leading global SPA brands such as H&M, ZARA, GAP and UNIQLO can be considered as a representative taste culture as well as an icon of popular culture in the
century global fashion and also the aesthetic taste of each brand differentiated from their national aesthetic values based on socio-cultural backgrounds. H&M represents fashionableness, practicality and environmental friendliness based on naturalism, democratic humanism, and functional practicality of Sweden. ZARA emerges as the most trend oriented brand as well as customer centered on the basis of cultural diversity, passion and glamorous artistic sensibility of Spain. GAP shows American iconic style, which is the functional sports casual wear, originated from American leisure culture and mass production. Lastly, UNIQLO represents high-tech functionalism and practical simplicity based on Japanese delicate workmanship and simple, concise lifestyle while relatively does not much follow the fashion forward trends. Consequently, the national taste has been proved as a solid foundation to identify each global brand. This should be the key component also applied to Korean global brands for developing their concepts and strategies more successfully based on our own national aesthetic taste.
Research of International and domestic design for developing of outdoor products
Sim, Heeran ; Moon, Sunjeong ; Chung, Shamho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 45~54
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.045
The increase in the consumption of outdoors sportswear is not because of an increase in sales from hiking enthusiasts but rather the general public's desire to wear them as everyday clothing. We expect that the market for the outdoors sportswear will grow gradually as people feel the need to wear extra outerwear for protection from wind everyday. Furthermore, as the consumers' demands for these outerwear increase, their desire for more variety increases as well. Five prominent domestic brands were chosen for the analysis. The selection method included two factors: 1) the brands with the highest sales figures in the last five years 2) brands that were mentioned most frequently in fashion articles (i.e apparel news, fashion biz) from 2009 to 2011. the goal is to analyze each of the brands' different concepts of outerwear design so that the results from the analysis can be used to develop better more diverse products in the market and satisfy with the consumers' need. In the end we have to develop better technology and more diverse designs in order to meet the increase in consumers' need. They are interested in sportswear and functional clothing; we have to satisfy their need. for diverse selections in their outerwear and this is especially the case with consumers in their teens and twenties.
A Study of Queen Elizabeth I's Cinema Costumes Viewed from Her Portrait
Sung, Kwang Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 55~70
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.055
In 16th century, during renaissance time, Britain's queen Elizabeth I, as a means to express her authority, had an exaggerated clothing styles and was the fashion leader of the time. Thus, through a media of Cinema, tried to find out the characteristics and different aspects of the history of clothing styles, of how they changed, ascertained, restored, and reappeared in the modern time. The research was based on the consideration of Elizabeth I's 33 portraits and her clothing styles; and the research is also from analysing the movies from 1937 to 2007, a total of 9 Cinema and 102 clothes. Movie costumes' most important mission is representing the cinema's timely and spatial background. Thus, it is inevitable that ascertaining and restoring Elizabeth I's portrait should be done. However, the movie costume has to show her dramatic lifestyle, dignity, absolute authority, and other visual images. In addition, the costume has to contribute in making artistic effect and thus the creativity of a designer to satisfy all these needs should be added. Based on the findings from the research, the characteristics of Elizabeth I's Cinema costume are first, ascertaining and restoring portraits, second, mixture of silhouette and detail depending on time period, third, partial change on clothing style design, fourth, emphasis of ruff collar, fifth, magnification colors, sixth, avoiding excessive swelling and decoration, and applying modern style on Protective costume. Thus, based on the research, creative design in Cinema clothing, plays an important part in the history of clothing design. I hope this research could work as a foundation reference for clothing design's history.
A Study on the Symbolic Meaning of Traditional Wedding Costume Inherent in the Afterlife Wedding Kut in the Honam Area - Focusing on the Process Performing A Traditional Wedding Ceremony-
Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 71~80
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.071
The Kut is the core of the traditional folk religion. The afterlife wedding Kut actually performs a traditional wedding ceremony by personifying the deceased in the process of performing the composition of Kut geori that cannot be observed from other Kuts, which is an important means to convey the situation of Kut more clearly. A traditional wedding ceremony performed in the Kut enables the audience to understand the meaning behind the Kut. The costume worn in the traditional wedding ceremony of the afterlife wedding Kut makes the audience understand the existence of the deceased by the use of a scarecrow dialect and makes them feel a vivid sense of the scene emitting from the Kut, which performs a traditional wedding ceremony in the composition of Kut geori. The results of this study showed that a shaman who led the afterlife wedding Kut had a scarecrow that symbolized the bride and a bridegroom wear the traditional wedding costume in order to visualize the deceased and express the symbol of a wedding which could not be made in this world. It can be interpreted that the traditional costume derived from the afterlife wedding Kut plays a symbolic role, which converts the deceased into a living person through the formal aspect of ceremonial costume and the cultural aspect of wedding ceremony.
The Study on the Trouser Types of the Ancient Tribes - Focusing on the Reliefs of the Achaemenian Period of Persia -
Yi-Chang, Youngsoo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 81~99
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.081
This study aims to find out the trouser types of the ancient tribes after analyzing various types of trousers discovered on the reliefs of the Achaemenian period of Persia. Then use the results of the analysis as basic data for a study on the Korean trousers type during the ancient times. For this, a theoretical background on the ancient tribes is developed by referring to the literature documents of literature, and European archeologists' papers and photo data are collected and analyzed as well. In addition to the above data, the data, which have been collected by researchers through a field study are comparatively analyzed. In terms of width, the trousers of the ancient tribes have been divided into three types: narrow, average and wide. Each type has diverse forms. The trouser types varied depending on the tribes, the regions and the manufacturing dates of the reliefs. The narrow type was popular among Median, Scythian and Kappadokian, while the average type was frequently worn by Bactrian and Sogdian who lived in the highlands in the northeastern part of Iran. Lastly, the wide type was mostly found in the southeast of Iran(Arachosia, Aria and Drangiana). The fact that trousers were discovered together with boots has been useful in guessing the lifestyle of ancient tribes. Also, even within the same tribe, the form of the trousers and how they were worn changed depending on the time period.
A Comparative Study on Minimalism and Maximalism in the 2000s Fashion
Park, Eun Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 100~117
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.100
This research aims to study comparatively on the aesthetic characteristics of minimalism and maximalism in the 2000s fashion, based on the previous studies in art and design. For this purpose, literature survey and demonstrative analysis of fashion collection photographs were performed. The scope of this research is from 2000 to 2010. The results are as follows: First, the formativeness of minimalism fashion in the 2000s is analyzed as understatement, simplicity, non decorativeness. The internal meanings are reduction, purity, asceticism, transcendence and practicality. Second, the formativeness of maximalism fashion in the 2000s is analyzed as enlargement, fusion, decorativeness, luxury and avant-garde. The internal meanings are pluralism, open mind, sensibility, fun and materialism. Third, minimalism and maximalism fashion in the 2000s are opposite when compared to each other. While minimalism pursues the nature of human being by ascetic approach, maximalism does it by immersing in human affairs. Within the spectrum of these two opposing ends, there are different degrees of expressions. Also these two trends fuse with other styles. As these trends express and pursue the nature of human being, they are expected to exist incessantly in the future.
A Study on the Historical Research on the Costume of Memorial Service Officials at Yeongwol King Danjong Cultural Festival
Lee, Eun-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 118~133
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.118
A historical research on the costume of memorial service officials during the period of late 18th century, King Jeongjo period, is performed for an accurate reconstruction of the memorial service for King Danjong, which is a part of King Danjong Cultural Festival held at Yeongwol. This paper summarizes the results of the research as follows: 1. Jangneung memorial service is held only on Hansik day and the procedure follows the rule based on Gukjooryeui(國朝五禮儀). The service was first held in 1791 for King Danjong and his royal followers. 2. The rule based on Chunkwantonggo(春官通考), defines the king's tomb memorial services and attendees. King Danjong's memorial service follows the rule regarding its attendees and the attendees include high-ranking local government officials, local confucian scholars, and service men. 3. The costume of attendees for the King Danjong's memorial service is as follows: 1)Dangsangkwan(堂上官) and Danghakwan(堂下官) wear Sangbok(常服), which consisted of Samo(紗帽), Heukdanllyeong(黑團領), Pumdae(品帶), and black boots(黑靴). 2)Local confucian scholars wear their uniform consisting of Yukeon(儒巾), Dopo(道袍), Sejodae, and black boots. 3)Service men wear their uniform consisting of Jeonjakeon(典字巾), red-robe with rounded collar called Hongui(紅衣), Kwangdaw hoe(廣多繪), and Uuhae(雲鞋).
A Study on the Buying Behavior of Fashion Products in the Group Buying Type of Social Commerce - Focused on Shopping Value, Attitude, Purchase Intention, and Clothing Involvement -
Cho, Yunjin ; Seo, Sangwoo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 134~148
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.134
Social commerce is not only a new form of shopping malls that did not exist in the past, but also a new form of media as it gets combined with social networking services. The purpose of this study is to analyze the influence of clothing involvement on the relationship between shopping values, attitudes, and purchase intentions of consumers in the group-buying type of social commerce. A specialized Internet survey company carried out the survey targeting consumers in their 20s and 30s with experience of purchasing fashion products using group-buying type of social commerce. A total of 200 questionnaires were used for the final analysis. Descriptive statistics, factor analysis, t-test, and regression analysis were conducted by using SPSS 12.0 and AMOS 19.0. The results are as follows. First, diversity/informativeness, impulse/accumulation, price, convenience, reliability, interaction, and adventure were identified as shopping value dimensions. Second, especially in cases of diversity/informativeness, price, and interaction, there were significant differences between the high involvement group and the low involvement group. Third, five of the categories, which were diversity/informativeness, price, convenience, reliability, and interaction, had significant influence on attitude and purchase intention. When the attitude variable was included with shopping value as independent variables in the regression model to predict purchase intention, the attitude variable presented a full mediating effect or a partial mediating effect between shopping value and purchase intention. Also, the relationship among shopping value, attitude, and purchase intention was different to some degree according to the level of consumer clothing involvement.
Traditional Color of Women's Hanbok on the Relics in Modern Korea
Cho, Woo Hyun ; Lee, Ho Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 62, issue 8, 2012, Pages 149~165
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2012.62.8.149
This study is to understand the characteristics of women's Hanbok fashion in the modern Korea by investigating the features of colors and color arrangements of remaining relics. The summary of findings from the researches and analysis from over 1840 pieces of Hanbok relics in modern Korea are as follows: First, since western-style cloth were introduced and utilized for Hanbok from 1960, the number of colors have drastically increased. However, the most commonly used colors and parts throughout all the periods remained the same. These are Y, R and white colors for Jeogori and Y, R and PB colors for Chima. And, as for the representative color of each of the six periods, significant changes of color were found Jeogori in the 1960~1970s. While no clear color changes were found in the period prior to the 1960s and after the 1980s. Secondly, as for the color tones, although the high luminosity-low chroma were generally used over the periods, it was observed that various colors of low luminosity-high chroma began to be used from 1960 and so Jeogori became more colorful. And lastly, Y and white color were taking up the highest percentage in the solid color arrangement. When composing 2 colors, the Y tone color dominants with R tone as sub-color was the most prevalent, and when 3 and 4 colors were combined, the extra color were increasingly seen in the upper garment cuff and collar so that the arrangement of different colors increased the aesthetic symbols when combined with the colors of the Chima.