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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 63, Issue 8 - Dec 2013
Volume 63, Issue 7 - Nov 2013
Volume 63, Issue 6 - Sep 2013
Volume 63, Issue 5 - Aug 2013
Volume 63, Issue 4 - Jun 2013
Volume 63, Issue 3 - Apr 2013
Volume 63, Issue 2 - Feb 2013
Volume 63, Issue 1 - Jan 2013
Selecting the target year
Aesthetic Characteristics Reflected in Gareth Pugh's Fashion Films
Kim, Sun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 1~15
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.001
This study deals with the aesthetic characteristics in Gareth Pugh's fashion film. As fashion films are becoming a newly emerging communication tool in fashion, the aim of this study will be to build a database on these films. For the specific method in this work, literature reviews were performed along with the empirical study of seven pieces of fashion film. The results of the study showed that Gareth Pugh released the fashion films from 2008 to 2012, and he collaborated with SHOW Studio member and photographer Nick Knight and Ruth Hogben. Common themes in their films were fear, fantasy, dynamics, and going off-limits, and these can be summed up in the following ways. First, a sense of fear was expressed via black colors, bizarre mechanical sounds, decalcomania shape in abstract images, and transformed physical body images. Second, an image of fantasy was presented with diverse expression techniques including colorful light presentations and abstract image setups from repeatedly changed image reproduction. Third, dynamic feature was denoted with a combination of fast development of images and quick reproduced layouts, as well as quick beat sounds, and big and powerful action movements. Fourth, characteristic of going off-limits was reflected, by showing the collections with a communication tool called fashion film instead of existing collection concept.
Product Development Process for Ethical Fashion Design - Fair trade system approach -
Jang, Namkyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 16~26
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.016
This study seeks solutions for two conflict values from the fair trade, one being fulfilling environment and social responsibility and the other being suggesting stylish designs within a reasonable price range. The purposes of this study were to establish fair-trade fashion product development process by investigating practices in fashion product development process within fair-trade company, and to identify the characteristics of fair-trade fashion product development. Qualitative research method was employed. Participant observation and in-depth interviews were conducted with practitioners working in fairtradekorea, Ltd. and producers in Bangladesh, from which case studies were compiled. The results were as follows: The case study provided evidence that fair-trade fashion product development has the same steps as practiced in general fashion brands, but has different characteristics such as fair-trade products going through a much slower process which led to early planning, having producer-centered product development, concentrating on spring/summer products, having a high cost structure, and having unpredictable quality control. Study implications and future research avenues are also discussed.
A Study and the Suggestion of the Costume of Gyeokgu in the TV Historical Drama
Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 27~41
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.027
This study is to examine the costumes of Gyeokgu in different situations and to suggest when and how they should be used in historical drama. Gyeokgu is a type of polo game that was played in Korea and it was also known as Gyeokbong and Bonghee. The accounts of the game show that it was played during the South-North period as recorded in Balhaego, Haedongyeoksa, and Goryeosa until the Joseon period. The scenes of Gyeokgu have been shown in some historical dramas in order to make the story exciting or to show the life of royalty. The costume of Gyeokgu in the South-North period should be suggested Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) in a formal situation. The Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period was a sport for royalty. So the Gyeokgu costume in the Goryeo period was required to be worn with Danryeong(團領), Bokdu, and Haw(靴) for the kings and military officers in the early Goryeo period and with Cheollik(帖裡), Balip or Huklip(黑笠), and Haw(靴) from the middle of the Goryeo period. Women could wear Chima(skirt), Jeogori(blouse), Pyo, and Li(履) when they play Gyeokgu in the Goryeo period in the historical dramas. The Gyeokgu in the early Joseon period was a sport for the kings. After the king of Sejong, the Gyeokgu became a martial art for the military officers. The costume of Gyeokgu in the Joseon period should be Red Cheollik(紅帖裡), Kwadu, Jonglip, Gwangjodae(廣組帶), Sagu, and Haw(靴) as recorded in Muyedobotongji in the 18th century. The kings, servants, and military officers could wear the Cheollik and should be made in the different Git(collar), shape of the sleeves, and the proportion of the upper part and the underpart in each period properly. When the citizens play Gyeokgu, they could wear Geon(巾), Baji(pants), Jeogori(shirt), and Gipsin in the late Joseon period.
An Study on the Opera 'Manon Lescaut's' Stage Costume Design
Yang, Su Mi ; Kwon, Mi Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 42~55
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.042
As performing arts including operas are getting popular these days, the importance of stage costumes is strengthened. Stage costume is one of the artistic requisites for opera performance, it plays an important role in describing the play's situation, the director's style and the person's character. Nevertheless the study regarding the opera's costumes is not active, especially the comparative study on the same opera's costumes performed by different opera companies have hardly been made. Therefore this study compared 5 Manon Lescaut opera performances: the Metropolitan Opera(1980), the Flemish Opera(1991), the Metropolitan Opera(2008), the Seoul Metropolitan Opera(2010) and the Vienna State Opera(2010) and made clear the difference between the four. From this study, we can get the following conclusions. First, the Metropolitan Opera's costumes in 1980 act and in 2008 act ascertained Rococo dressing. Because the costume designer for both acts was the same person, the general costume styles of the two acts are similar. Second, as for the Flemish Opera and Seoul Metropolitan Opera, there was a significant drop in fancy details and trimmings in the costumes. But the costumes made strong impressions dues to its color and luminosity contrast. Third, Vienna State Opera costumes had the boldest designs and it reflected modern designs as well. This study is meaningful in that it is based on the comparison study on the same opera stage costumes designed by different directors. Afterward this study is expected to contribute toward study on opera stage costumes and stage costume's development.
A Parodic Comparison On Body & Political Power in Traditional Animation & Shrek Series - Centered on the Political Power Discourse of Foucault -
Lee, Hyewon ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 56~63
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.056
This study provides comparative analysis on the parodying of the body and political powers in the traditional animation and Shrek Series based on the discourse of Foucault. For the research, parody theories and Foucault's discourse were reviewed through the literature study, and Shrek Series was analyzed through positive study. The Shrek Series overturned stereotypes of the traditional animation by means of parody, especially showing a true body and a political power in the post-modern society. Foucault focused on the body and newly changed political power in the post-modern society. A body was changed into resistant and combative forms rather than obedient and submissive under control of the community power. In addition, political power was changed into relationship-oriented, decentralized and creative power rather than the centralized and class-based. In the traditional fairy tales, heroes and heroines are beautiful and perfect characters who obtain wealth and honor and live a happy life forever. However, heros and heroines in the Shrek Series are not attractive and do not have the ideal body shape, but rather have creative and active personalities and show indifference towards wealth and honor. Furthermore, their dress colors show the change into lower value and higher chroma. The Shrek Series is a future-oriented animation which created a fluid body and a creative political power in the post-modern society.
A Case Study on the Uniform Design of Fashion Designer for Domestic Corporations in Korea
Na, Hyun-Suk ; Bae, Soo-Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 64~80
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.064
The purpose of this study is to examine the cases of Korean requesting fashion designers for uniform design, that were created from the combination of designer's ideas with company identity, and analyze its design characteristics. For research methods, the uniform design cases were investigated and analyzed from 2000 to 2012. Uniform design cases were classified by job categories( airlines, banks, distributions, constructions, communications and restaurants). The most frequently applied trait on the part of uniform design proved to be for the fashion trend, followed by emblematic and functional factor and lastly, by korean tradition. This might be ascribed to the occupational characteristics of the fashion designers, which is the most emphasis on the fashion trend. The uniform of the construction and the distribution companies showed very fashionable designs that would be regarded to be associated with the trendy life styles in these companies' consumers. To the contrary, the uniform of the financial and communication companies showed the functional and emblematic trend that might be due to work conditions with long hours of sitting, coming from the occupational characteristics of these companies.
Development of Functional Indoor Apparel Considering Toddlers' Behavioral Characteristics - Focus on 3-6-Year Old Boys -
Nam, Young-Ran ; Choi, Hei-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 81~96
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.081
We interviewed and surveyed parents of 3 to 6-year-old boys in order to determine designs for indoor apparel that appealed to toddlers. In addition, on the basis of the behavioral characteristics of such boys, improvements in the development of indoor apparels were suggested. Parents preferred indoor apparels because it could be worn as underwear when the kid is outdoors and as outerwear when indoors. These apparels were popular with toddlers. Therefore, indoor apparel that gives the impression of outerwear while performing the function of underwear was designed. Underwear fabric was used, but outerwear apparel design was partially adopted. In order to improve the activity, fabric that could be stretched in any direction was used for the sleeves and pant legs, while organic fabric with soft texture was used for the trunk part of the apparel. Dark-colored material was used for the chest and elbow parts of the clothes in order to prevent contamination in these parts. In particular, a bib was used to prevent contamination in the chest part. Given that toddlers engage in many activities, the fabric needed to be durable, so this led to thick materials being used for the knee part. As certain parents complained about the short length for tops, we increased the length of the tops by 5cm. In the survey items that investigated overall wearability, ease, and suitability for toddlers' activities, the test apparel obtained a higher score than existing apparel did. This indicates that the overall suitability of the newly designed apparel was improved.
Upper Body-Type Classification of Jeonbuk Women in Their Twenties
Kim, Ju-Yeon ; Lee, Hyo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 97~107
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.097
To give satisfaction with the fit to a wearer, the wearer's body size and body types should be considered first, this study conducted the descriptive statistical analysis on the upper body measurements of women in their 20s because their body shape has reached the completion stage of adult female's physical development. Also, the analysis classified their upper body types into groups to secure basic data for (maximum satisfaction with the fit of ready-to-wear clothing. The factor analysis was conducted using 49 items of measurement. The main factor analysis was used as a factor extraction method. After extracting the factors with Eigenevalues over 1, the factor loadings were drawn using the Varimax rotation. As a result, 6 factors were extracted. To secure internal consistency, factors that could lower the reliability of the experiment were taken out, so only 36 of the 49 items were used for the analysis. After selecting the items to recognize the main features of each body type, they were used for the final factor analysis. The entire R square of the 6 factors was 84.06%. To classify the upper body types of women in their 20s and to recognize the main features of each body shape type, the researcher conducted the cluster analysis with the items generated from the factor analysis. Through the cluster analysis, the upper body type of women in their 20s were classified into 3 body types. Also, since there are some restrictions on this research objects in terms of local and numbers of measured objects, the results of the this research should only be used as basic data.
A Study on the Types and Changes of Collaboration in the Domestic Fashion Industry
Lee, Kyoung Mee ; Hwang, Sun Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 108~119
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.108
This study examined the types and changes of collaboration in the domestic fashion industry by means of analyzing media articles or advertisement of collaboration in the domestic fashion industry that were published in Vogue and Fashion Biz between 2000 and 2011. The total number of collaboration articles and advertisements was 269, including 55 from Vogue and 214 from Fashion Biz. The data analysis was made using frequency, percentages, and the (chi-square) test. The results concerning fashion collaborations between 2000 and 2011 are as follows: First, when looking at the collaborations from 2000 to 2003, it showed that majority of collaborations during this period was done between apparel companies and individual designers. However, from 2004 to 2011, there was a increase in the number of collaborations between apparel companies and celebrities. Second, collaborations from 2000 to 2003 focused mainly on women's wear and innerwear. But, from 2004 to 2011, collaborations for casual wear has increased. And it should be noted that a rapid increase in collaborations have been observed for collaborations in sportswear and men's wear from 2004 to 2011.
The Effect of Design Originality in Fashion Window Display on the Attitudes Toward Fashion Brands and the Purchasing Intention
Choi, Eun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 120~134
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.120
This study was intended to investigate the designs that are displayed on fashion windows, specifically the originality of its designs, from here on noted as "design originality", and the effects it has on the attitudes of consumers toward fashion brands and their purchasing intentions depending on their level of clothing involvement. For the purpose of this study, 10 pictures of creative fashion window display designs from Fifth Avenue in New York were selected and they were shown to 200 college students in Busan in order to collect data for the analysis. The results are as follows: 1) Factor analysis identified four factors that impacted how consumers judged design originality, uniqueness, humor, favorable impression and advanced design. 2) The four factors of design originality in fashion window display significantly affected consumer's evaluation on usefulness of information provided by the window display, attitudes toward fashion brands and purchase intention. 3) The respondents were separated into two groups depending on their level of clothing involvement. Consumers with high level of clothing involvement showed that they were influenced more by the design originality when making purchase decisions. Especially, the uniqueness factor and advanced design factor had more effect on brand attitudes and purchase intention in high level of clothing involvement group. The results revealed that creative fashion window display design are important marketing strategic tools that affect attitudes of consumers toward brands and their purchasing intentions.
A Study on the Shape, Characteristic, and Investigated Design of Goryeo-Achungunsura-Jisun
Choi, Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 135~146
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.135
The purpose of this study is to investigate the meaning and possible shape of Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun(高麗鴉靑雲袖羅質孫) through the details regarding its color, fabric, and pattern in the
century writings and costume relics. Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun was the summer dress coat that government officials wore during the Jisun feast of Yuan, and it was symbolic of the political strategy of Yuan as well as the excellent Goryeo fabric material, but no relics remain. During this period, Achung (dark blue)was the color that was used to dye silk, dress coats of upper class men, and background fabric of the embroidered official patch. And, the term, Yunsu (cloud sleeves), was probably sleeves with cloud pattern. The most typical cloud pattern in the 13 and the
century was the 'flowing, gathering-headed cloud'. The Ra(silk gauze) weaving technique of Goryeo was developed rapidly in the
century, and the quality of the Ra in the late Goryeo was good enough to be used for making the official's dress coat in the golden age of Yuan. According to the characteristic of jisun and man's formal-suit style in the Mongolian-Yuan, the possible styles for Goryeo-Achungunsura-jisun can be summarized as follows: a basic Mongolian gown with narrow sleeves and deep crossed diagonal opening, a Mongolian gown with waist pleats, the combination of half sleeved gown and long sleeved Mongolian gown. These styles would be made of delicate Goryeo Ra, cloud patterned sleeves, fabrics dyed in dark blue color, and shawl or embroidered patch ornaments for officials of Yuan, which was more simple than materials for Khan's Jisun to avoid rebellions.
A Study on the Expression Types of Korean Beauty in Korean Fashion
Choi, Hae-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 1, 2013, Pages 147~160
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.1.147
Korean fashion designs became important items in Korea in the middle of the 1980s, and it has advanced into the world market in the early part of the 1990s. To achieve success in global fashion world, it is necessary to analyze Korean fashion design thoroughly and prepare strategies to develop designs with mainstream acceptance in the global fashion world. The purpose of this study is to analyze the aesthetic characteristics and Korean beauties of Korean fashion designs. Fashion photos of Korean fashion designs from 2006 S/S to 2012 F/W were analyzed. 357 designs from 608 designs of 4 representative Korean designers were examined and design characteristics, expression styles were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows : 1. H Line, slim, fitted silhouette and loose look were applied. 2. 5 major traditional colors, red, blue, yellow, white and black colors were used. Brown color, neutral color, golden color and beige color of the textile material's original color were used. Traditional textile materials like ramie fabric, satin and cotton, wool and metallic fabric were used. 3. Patterns of flower, traditional pattern and Korean letters were applied. Embroidery, patchwork and mother-of-pearl were decorated. 4. The three types of beauty were natural beauty, moderate beauty and decorative beauty. The types that were analyzed were realistic expression type, moderate expression type, image expression type and mixed expression type. To be accepted in global fashion world, Korean traditional design elements should be modified, broken down and reorganized so that Korean fashion design can be recreated.