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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 63, Issue 8 - Dec 2013
Volume 63, Issue 7 - Nov 2013
Volume 63, Issue 6 - Sep 2013
Volume 63, Issue 5 - Aug 2013
Volume 63, Issue 4 - Jun 2013
Volume 63, Issue 3 - Apr 2013
Volume 63, Issue 2 - Feb 2013
Volume 63, Issue 1 - Jan 2013
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Costume Culture of Xiongnu
Kim, Yong-Mun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 1~16
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.001
Xiognu people were the first of the Central-Asian nomads to establish a nation in 209 B.C. They always moved around looking for places to breed their animals and fertile grounds, so they wore clothes made of fur and leather and covered their tents with felt from the livestock. This research studies on the literatures, costumes and the achievement of archaeological excavation. Furthermore, to investigate on costumes excavated of Xiongnu, we visited the Mongolian National Museum and the Hermitage Museum. A corn-hat made of felt, a felt hat with ear flaps and a golden crown with a bird on the top were unearthed from a tomb of Xiongnu in Inner mongolia. Women usually wore pigtails, and men wore pigtails or ponytails but they cut their hair short when holding a funeral. Many pigtails discovered in Noyon uul tombs can be considered as their funeral customs. The Xiongnu wore a round or v-neck caftan attached straight sleeves reaching knees in the left folded style, and because they always rode horses, having the length of the caftan not go past their buttocks would have made it more convenient for them. During the period of Western Han, Ho refered to Xiongnu and it became a common name for northern races. They used leather belts and an animal-designed buckle was found. Women commonly rouged their cheeks for a vivid and cute look, and many ornaments were excavated including bracelets, rings and decorations made of gold, silver, copper and jade, among which there were hair ornaments used to identify one's class. A horse pattern with wings and a horn of Golmod T20 was substitution for the Schythian use of deer. Patterns or shape of unearthed articles present in the Xiongnu culture in Noyon uul had a close relationship with Altaic, Greek and Persian cultures. The Xiongnu clothing was made of animals' skin and fur, woolen textiles and felt. It was folded to the left for upper garments, and the pants were adjusted using a belt and shoes were made of leather, which was very suitable for protection against the cold and horse riding. Mobility played a significant role in their clothing.
Study of the Form Generation Diagrams of Trompe l'oeil Fashion Design
Lee, Shin-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 17~32
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.017
This study examined the visual elements of the Trompe l'oeil design and the combination conditions of each element in order to deduce the form generation diagrams of Trompe l'oeil fashion design. The following is what the study found: First, Trompe l'oeil fashion design can be divided into two based on its subject: 'the combination of internal elements of dress' and 'the combination of external elements of dress'. Looking at the visual components of each type, depending on the subject, 'the combination of internal elements of dress' design was achieved by combining internal dress elements: including textile, detail, item, accessory, layering, etc.. In case of 'the combination of external elements of dress' design, the object of Trompe l'oeil was expanded in scope to environment, which includes the actions of a wearer. Second, as for Trompe l'oeil fashion design through the combination of external dress elements, the condition to combined visual components of the work in the process of creation was related to 'the popularity of object', 'the similarity of shapes and sizes', and 'the probability of location'. Third, deriving a form generation diagrams of Trompe l'oeil fashion design was very effective in delineating specific relationships and conditions, directions among elements combined in fashion design.
A Study on the Design for Fashion Cultural Product with Formative Beauty in Traditional Ornament Unique to Korean Females
Kim, Sun Young ; Kwon, Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 33~45
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.033
This work developed the basic motive design utilizing the physical beauty of the traditional ornaments used uniquely by Korean females and suggested some textile designs and fashion cultural product designs. As a research method, computer design programs Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used as well as literature examination. The motive was mainly based on the dwiggoji and ddeoljam, which are female ornaments. The formative shape in woman ornaments was classified into four kinds: plant, animal, geometry, and hybrid. The hybrid type was divided further into such combinations as plant, animal, and geometry, which came up with 8 fundamental motives for design development in total. With regard to the basic motive design, the coordinated concept was adopted with a combination of traditional taste and contemporary taste in harmony for the expression of delicate image on the condition that the basic format in female ornament is maintained. Textile design was processed with symmetry, rotation, repeat, and overlap as fundamental motive. As to the design for fashion cultural products, design mapping was proposed for neckties, handbags, clutches, shirts, and one-pieces. Utility and beauty in the traditional ornaments unique to Korean women could be recognized once again through this work. This work also assured the possibility for the endless improvement as a design development motive with originality.
Analysis of Relational Structure among Service Failure-related Variables in the Beauty Service Industry
Kim, Seong-Ah ; Yoo, Tai-Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 46~60
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.046
With a goal of establishing a marketing strategy which allows businesses to hold a dominant position in beauty service industry, this study has attempted to investigate causal relations among behavioral intentions by customer satisfaction once service recovery strategy is recovered depending on customers' emotional responses against service failure. In order to provide relevant data to make correct decisions during management and marketing planning so that better customer satisfaction can be achieved in the beauty service industry, the results of the previous studies on service failure and recovery strategy in the beauty service industry have been examined. Then after selecting i) the efforts to recover service failure, ii) satisfaction after recovery and iii) behavioral intention after satisfaction as causal variables, the relation among these variables were verified using a structural equation model. As a result, an appropriate recovery strategy which is developed after service failure makes customers have positive behavioral intentions when customer satisfaction is achieved just as described in previous studies. Furthermore, it is a critical fact which helps businesses keep their customers in a mature market, where it is hard to attract new customers and create long-term profit. This study empirically supports information on how service failure and related variables occur in the beauty service industry. It is significant in that it has helped beauty service providers build service recovery-related strategies.
Parody Expressed in Thom Browne's Collection
Jang, Jung Im ; Lee, Youn Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 61~77
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.061
The purpose of this study is to analyze the concept and characteristics of parody, and consider how parody was reflected in Thom Browne's collection centering on the expressive method. Thus, this study will attempt to shed new light on the creative possibility and artistic value of parody in men's fashion design. The methods are as follows. The ideas, characteristics and expressive methods that represent parody was considered by referencing various related books, papers, art critiques, etc. Based on this theoretical study, a case of Thom Browne's collection (Thom Browne menswear: 2004 S/S-2012 F/W) was observed to find types of parody, attributes and significance. Photo material was collected through websites such as www.thombrowne.com, www.style.com, etc. The type and characteristics of parody expressed in Thom Browne's collection was considered in the following aspects: imitative parody, critical parody and pastiche parody. Through such consideration, it was possible to realize the fashion designs that adapt Thom Browne's parody are very deliberate and calculative. The designs convey exaggeration, destruction of form, emphasis on discontinuity, transition into attraction, aesthetics of unfamiliarity, characteristic aspects of irrationality and contradiction. Through the study, it was possible to see Thom Browne's collection with parody adaptation shaping new creativity and broadening formative aspects in fashion design.
Influence of Anti-Form in Contemporary Fashion - Focusing on Signs of Time -
Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 78~94
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.078
In order to examine the influence of Anti-form in contemporary fashion focusing on 'signs of time', which illustrates the zeitgeist effects art and fashion, this study investigates both Anti-form movement in art of 1960s and 1970s and the fashion designs since 1970s when the signs of the influence of Anti-form in fashion began to appear. This was done by conducting literary survey as well as case analysis. Anti-form values the process and signs of time in that it visualizes the time and the process of making artworks. The emphasis on signs of time in Anti-form is observed in postmodernism fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process, visualization of signs of wearing, and continuation of wearing experience are all influences of the Anti-form in fashion. Visualization of manufacturing process exposes the techniques and the materials involved in garment construction such as linings, inside-out seams, interlinings, and unraveled hems, as well as the use of muslin, which is used in making garment prototypes. Signs of wearing is articulated in wrinkles caused by wearing, sings of alteration, reappeared designs of the past collections, reuse of vintage fabrics or garments, and the fabrics which assumes aged appearance. Continuous experience of a wearer is indicated in that the garment shape is not predetermined but changes continuously by the wearer's body shape and movement, which generates new and relative silhouettes continuously.
A Study on the Size Information Presentation Method of Women's Upper Garment in Internet Shopping Malls for the Improvement of Consumer Satisfaction
Lee, Mi Yeon ; Hwang, Sun Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 95~109
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.095
This thesis was conducted with the purpose of proposing a systematic and comprehensive system for women's upper garment sizes so that the satisfaction level of women purchasing the upper garment products in Internet shopping malls is enhanced. To achieve this, this study first conducted a survey of women from the ages of 18 to 39 and attempted to discover consumer satisfaction levels and preferences of the clothing product sizing system of Internet shopping malls. While keeping track of the global distribution environment, an optimal clothing sizing system for Korean women that fit recent changes in their body shapes was proposed. The results of this study are as follows. First, A result of studying the satisfaction levels and preferences of consumer's purchase experience and the sizing system showed that 48.6% of the total respondents were dissatisfied with the current sizing system. Second, based on the research of the size classification system of domestic and foreign upper garment for women, unlike domestic Internet shopping malls, overseas generally offer several size classifications. Third, results of studies 1 and 2 was used to propose an optimal clothing products sizing system method. Also, the body and product sizes and the measurement methods should be offered together. In summary of all these results, by establishing globally compatible sizing system, consumers are able to recognize their sizes on their own and by doing this, it will lower perceived risk of the consumers at the time of a Internet shopping mall purchase, and this will raise their level of satisfaction while making purchases.
An Analysis of Types of the First Birthday Hanbok on the Internet Shopping Mall
Kim, Eun-Jung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 110~123
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.110
The purpose of this study is to analyze the first birthday Hanboks on Internet shopping malls and to find the reason why the costume has various types. From April to May 2012, first birthday costumes were sold on 154 Internet shopping mall sites. On 48 of the shopping malls, traditional Hanboks were sold, on 33 of the shopping malls, fusion Hanboks were sold, and on 73 of the shopping malls, Western formal wear was sold. The percentage of the Hanboks and Western costumes for the first birthday was almost the same. Boys costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Magoja, Joggi, Jeogori, and Baji" or 'Baeja, Jeogori, and Baji" with Jeonbok or Sagyusam. Boys' headgear consisted of Bokgun and Hogun. Girls' costumes in the traditional Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Chima' or 'Dangui, Chima or Seuranchima'. Girls' headgear was Gulle, Jobawui, and Baessidaenggi. Boys' costumes in the fusion Hanbok consisted of 'Jeogori, Baji, and Wanggunmo' which is different from the traditional Hanbok in materials, colors, and parts of construction. Girls' costumes in the fusion Hanbok could be divided into 3 different types; a modified traditional skirt, Chima, 'Chima and Jeogori" with new materials and colors, and Western dress with traditional materials. The first birthday Hanboks on the Internet shopping malls are simple and convenient compared to the traditional ones. Furthermore, parts of the costumes are influenced by some popular historical dramas. One of the reasons why the costumes have changed is because the customers have few experiences about traditional Korean costumes and their interests have been affected by the modern media.
A Study on Raincoats in Joseon
Park, Sun Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 124~137
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.124
This study tried to get a deeper understanding of the characteristics of raincoats in Joseon by searching through historic records: the Annals of Joseon(朝鮮王朝實錄), personal or official records, paintings, etc. The time range of the research covers the entire period of Joseon. There were two prime types of raincoats: Saui, a cyperus coat, and Yusam(油衫), an oilcloth coat. The study proceeded as follows: 1) Identifying the people who wore the coats as well as the time period, 2) Figuring out the shapes and materials of those raincoats, 3) Postulating the reasons for the upward trend in popularity of a certain type as well as the eventual downward trend. Those research efforts revealed the following: 1) In the early Joseon, from royals to commoners, people wore Saui. But as time passed valuation about Saui might have become degraded. Eventually it became regarded as a farmer's smock in the 19th Century. 2) Yusam might not have been worn in the early Joseon. It was developed and spread after the middle of 17th Century. It was for soldiers and nobles, especially travelers, but by the end of the Joseon period, it was also used by commoners. 3) Saui was made of cyperus, but Yusam was made of oiled paper, cotton or silk. Those shapes were similar to a Western cloak. The analysis of the research findings led to following conclusions: 1) Around the middle of Joseon, people started to wear Yusam after the introduction of a Chinese version of it. 2) Yusam might have become popular in Joseon because of the social and cultural implications. At that time, people had pride in their culture and thought that real experiences and travels were important. 3) As people became fond of Yusam more, then Saui's popularity fell.
A Survey on the Research Trends of Clothing Construction in Korea - Focused on Journal Publications from 2001 through 2010 -
Choi, Hae-Joo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 138~150
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.138
The purpose of this study was to investigate research trends of subject matter in clothing construction field in clothing and textiles and to suggest the information for the future directions for fashion business and research. 2737 articles with clothing and textiles subject matter, 350 articles with clothing construction field in the Journal of Korean Society of Costume and Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles from 2001 through 2010 were analyzed. The major conclusions of the study are as follows: 1. Clothing construction field took 12.8% with 350 articles in the researches of the Journal Publications in 2000s. 2. Clothing construction field showed more proportions in the latter half of the decade. 3. Clothing construction field were classified into 5 topics : topic of basic pattern and pattern for apparel, topic of body types, topic of functionality of clothing and protective clothing, topic of size system of apparel, topic of sewing and manufacturing process. 4. In clothing construction field, topic of basic pattern and pattern for apparel took the most proportions. 5. Topic of body types, topic of functionality of clothing and protective clothing, topic of size system of apparel, topic of sewing and manufacturing process were followed.
Environmental Changes in the Global Textile & Fashion Market & their Implications for Korean Firms
Cho, KyeongSook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 151~165
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.151
This paper aims to examine the implications of the global market for Korean textile and fashion firms with regard to recent changes in the international business environment to improve the corporative management to the level that the global economy demands. The trade and business environment is moving toward the paradigm of glocalism. As the geographical scope of the market and business environment continues to expand with the aid of technological development, demands for global standards as a means to offer universal validity in business settings have been raised. The glocalized society values diversity as a notion beyond global standardization. The world trade orders are subject to free trade; however, protectionism has substantially promoted trade barriers in the name of the environment and safety issues, ethical managements, and intellectual property rights. For sustainable development in the global market, Korean firms should strive to implement global standards related to these issues and corporate social responsibility in their business settings.
Correlation between Work Attire Satisfaction and Job Satisfaction for Male Consumers
Lee, Ji-In ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 3, 2013, Pages 166~175
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.3.166
The attire of businesspersons has a significant impact on their social status and career. In accordance with the norms of the work place, the types of office attire are diversified. This research was conducted to determine the relationship between the work role of men and their attire, and how satisfaction with their work attire influences their job satisfaction. This study classifies work attire into three categories: uniform, suit, and freestyle. Data from 268 respondents were analyzed, and four work attire satisfaction factors were extracted: symbolic, quality, role function, and aesthetic factors. The group members wearing uniforms displayed a high level of satisfaction with regard to symbolism, role function, and quality; those wearing suits displayed a high level of satisfaction with regard to aesthetics; and those wearing freestyle displayed a high level of satisfaction with regard to role function and aesthetics. Overall, satisfaction with work attire was the highest in the freestyle group. For people wearing uniforms and suits, symbolism, quality, and aesthetics had a significant influence on overall satisfaction, whereas for those wearing freestyle, symbolism had a negative influence and quality had a positive influence on overall satisfaction. To conclude, work attire satisfaction had a greater effect on the job satisfaction of the men in uniforms and suits than on those wearing freestyle.