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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 63, Issue 8 - Dec 2013
Volume 63, Issue 7 - Nov 2013
Volume 63, Issue 6 - Sep 2013
Volume 63, Issue 5 - Aug 2013
Volume 63, Issue 4 - Jun 2013
Volume 63, Issue 3 - Apr 2013
Volume 63, Issue 2 - Feb 2013
Volume 63, Issue 1 - Jan 2013
Selecting the target year
Influence of Anti-Form in Contemporary Fashion - Focusing on Physicality -
Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 1~16
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.001
Using the premise that fashion and art reflects the characteristics of its times, this study examines the influence of Anti-form in fashion with a focus on physicality. This study combines literary survey and case analysis of both Anti-form in 1960s and 1970s and the fashion collections since 1970s when the influence of Anti-form began to appear in fashion. The influence of Anti-form focusing on physicality is summarized as deconstruction of garment and visualization of the physicality of material. Deconstruction of garment visualizes the invisible structures of garment by deconstructing, restructuring, and deforming the construction and the shapes of the garment, which is illustrated by visualization of design process, overlapping and fusing of materials, loss of stitches, and use of fabrics with flaws, questioning and destroying the sartorial conventions and aesthetic standards. Visualization of the physicality of material exposes the imperfect inside of garment which is concealed conventionally by presenting unfinished garments with minimized sewing procedure, crumpling and flattening fabrics, rubbing and fading surfaces, pulling threads, as well as using the selvages of fabrics.
The Interaction Expressed in 21st Century's Digital Fashion - Focused on the Luminescence digital fashion designs -
Heo, Seungyeun ; Lee, Younhee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 17~29
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.017
The purpose of this study is to analyze the factors of action and reaction through the examples of luminescence digital fashion design, which is a part of the interactive digital paradigm in 21st century, and to classify types of interaction expressed in luminescence digital fashion design. The significance of this study is to provide an effective database for researches on new ideas and expression methods of fashion design using luminescence digital device. The contents are as follows. First, identifying the concepts of interaction, digital fashion, and luminescence digital device. Second, analyzing the factors that put the luminescence digital device into effect through materials such as the collected photos and the stimulus behind the materials. Third, analyzing and classifying types of reaction according to the types of stimulus in luminescence digital fashion design. Detailed use of luminescence digital devices in Fashion designs did not start until after 2000 so the scope of this study starts from 2000 and on. The methods of this study are as follows. The theoretical frameworks of digital fashion and interaction were setup by using information from various related books, papers, and internet sites. In addition, the empirical analysis was performed using collected photos and explanations through related Internet sites of digital fashion. Through the study, the interaction types in 21st century's luminescence digital fashion design can be expressed variously according to the current input type, biometric recognition type, environment recognition type.
Development of the Cultural Product Design Contents for High Value Added Strategy of Temple Stay as National Brand Project - Based on cloud-shaped gong among the Bulgeonsamul -
Kim, Sun Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 30~43
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.030
This study provides suggestions of cultural product design contents by using the cloud-shaped gong in traditional temple culture in order to find a high value-added approach. The research herein is part of cultural design contents projects embedded with the spiritual value and symbolic connotation of temple culture. This would be meaningful to enhance its degree of utilization. This can also be a way to find a strategic alternative to a high value addition of temple stay and dissemination of temple culture. For the research methodology, literature was reviewed over temple stay and Bulgeonsamul. For motive design and development of cultural product design, both Adobe Illustrator CS3 and Adobe Photoshop CS3 were used as computer design program. The template image of cloud-shaped gong for basic motive design was selected from those available at the domestic temples for accurate depiction of its head and body. Finally, samples were adopted from those temples of Gounsa, Songgwangsa, Guinsa, Hwaeomsa, and Naesosa. For each motive, different colors were applied and ten basic motives were practiced in total. By repeating the process for these motives, three types of textile design were prepared. T-shirt designs used a round neckline as basic form, and it was designed for sleeved and sleeveless styles. Apron designs stressed V-neckline and two types were processed: one for the back seam line and the other for side seam line. Pendants were designed with modern and luxurious image so that so that it could be used in various types of accessories. Designs for the bedding applied pattern design of the motives and this was done in a way that gave the images a sense of stability and splendor.
Relationship between Fashion Style and Music, Recreation, Lifestyle and Value of Male College Students
Yu, Haekyung ; Baek, Doo Jin ; Ko, Sunyoung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 44~55
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.044
The main objectives of this study were to empirically examine the relationship between the preference of fashion styles of male college students and their individual taste in other areas including music styles and recreation types. Life style and values were also examined for their relationship with the fashion style preferences. Survey questionnaires were distributed to male college students in Seoul, Incheon and Gyeonggi-do during May and June of 2011, and a total of 256 responses were used in the final analysis. The results showed that there were three segments according to the fashion styles - 'modern-dandy', 'resistance style', 'no-individuality' groups - and there were significant differences between groups in terms of their preferred music styles and choice of recreational activities. Modern-dandy group preferred R&B, dance music and ballad, while resistance style group preferred hiphop, dance and reggae music. No-individuality group did not show any preference for a particular type of music. Both modern-dandy and resistance style groups liked sports, while resistance style group showed the lowest preference for hobby and culture. There were also significant differences in lifestyles and values according to the fashion styles of the three groups.
A Study on Korean Twill Fabrics in the 17
Cho, Hyo-Sook ; Lee, Eunjin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 56~69
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.056
This study studies the fabrics from excavated 17th century tombs of Mrs. Min from Yeoheung family(1586~1656), Yeo-on Kim(1596~1665) and Won-rip Choi(1618~1690) and attempts to clarify the relationship between the fashion trend in fabrics of those times and the background behind it by viewing and examining the proportion of twill fabrics to the total silk fabrics and the characteristics of its weave and patterns. Looking into fabrics from the above tombs, twill fabrics accounted for 10.4%(13 pieces) 19.3%(16 pieces) and 9.2%(9 pieces) of total silk fabrics in each of the respective tombs. This forms a remarkable contrast with the fact that there was only one piece of twill silk fabrics(0.5%) and not any from the 16th century tombs of Mrs. Yoon from Papyeong family (0.5%) and Soo-ryoon Sim(0%). In particular, the percentage of hwamun-neung(patterned twill fabrics) in each of the tombs is 8.0%(10 pieces), 13.3%(11 pieces), 9.2%(9 pieces), which is much higher than that of non-patterned one. This is common to the twill fabrics from above three 17th century tombs. Patterns of hwamun-neung(patterned twill), simplified small flower patterns or geometrical figures, from the three excavated tombs are mostly arranged sporadically with blank space. It is supposed that these figurative characteristics reflected the aesthetic sense of the gentry at that time which valued simplicity and moderation for their Confucian standard. This phenomenon of increased use and production of twill fabrics in the 17th century resulted from different factors such as wars like Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598), economic difficulty, government regulations against the production of high-class fabrics, development of weaving skill and its fixation, changes of fabric production environments, and changes of aesthetic sense preferring naive and moderate things to showy ones. As for the weaving characteristics of twill fabrics from the three 17th century tombs 3 leaf warp-faced twill was often used for the ground texture and 4 leaf warp-faced one was occasionally used. For pattern texture 6 leaf weft-faced twill was frequently used, 4 leaf weft-faced twill and 3 leaf weft-faced twill were used at times, and floating one was occasionally used as well.
The Uniform Design Development to Build a City Brand using its Culture - Focusing on 'Kwangju, The Cultural Hub City of Asia' -
Lim, Song-Mi ; Lee, Mi-Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 70~83
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.070
Lately, cities have been trying to build a certain brand by using its identity and culture in public designs. Cities are using its public design to show its cultural identity and to differentiate itself from other cities so it is playing a significant role in establishing a city's overall image. Public uniform is used to reflect the symbolism and identity of the city, an image of the city's culture and is used as a means of communication for specialization. Thus, the purpose of this study is to develop public uniform designs to build and strengthen the brand of Gwangju as Asia cultural hub city. Research presents a review of the literature including concept and type of a cultural city, correlativity between public design and urban competitiveness, domestic and foreign culture city branding case: focusing on Gwangju which is a cultural hub city in Asia, and then study sets up the development direction and motifs of uniform designs, and uniforms are designed by making use of the textile with symbols and logos, colors, and architectural motifs of Asian Culture Complex. Development ranges of uniforms were limited to Cultural Tourism Narrators and the Asian Culture Complex Advertisements staff uniforms, within the region of cultural tourism. Textile design, illustration, uniform simulation using Adobe Photoshop 7.0 and Adobe Illustrator CS 3 program is presented.
Analysis on Gender Characteristics Expressed in Male and Female Costume During the Ancient Greek Age
Yi, Myoung-Hee ; Choi, Yoonmi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 84~100
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.084
Ancient Greece was a patriarchal society that distinguished gender roles between men and women. Although their costumes were composed of simple rectangular fabric without any technical complications in itself, the Greeks did try to express gender differences in their clothing. The final look of the Greek costume was dependent on the way the cloth draped onto its wearer as well as the wearer's identity. Greeks costume could just be seen as a rectangular fabric when it was not draped on a person's body. The purpose of this study is to examine how the gender differences were expressed in the ancient Greek drapery costume, which was made by using a completely different technical process, compared with the modern tailored costume. There are four elements of the costume that give the costume its formative shape, which are the wearer's body, the rectangular fabric (material as the first formative costume), the way the fabric is draped, and the final appearance as the second formative costume (the relationship between the wearer's body and the costume) and this study analyzes these elements individually. It is intended to analyze the gender characteristics and how each element appears in a different way from the perspective of Structuralism, an analytical method that considers a phenomenon as a total sum of the elements. Literature research was conducted and representative sculpture, painting and pottery, were used between the Archaic Period (B.C. 800~500) and the Classical Period (B.C. 500~323). The results show that the gender differences appear in each formative element of costume: First, the body was distinguished by the ancient Greek custom. The man's nudity was accepted while the woman's body was concealed. Second, in regards to the first formative costume, which was the rectangular fabric, men's were made with thick high quality wool because their involvement in outdoor activities meant that they needed clothes to stay warm, while the women wore clothes made of thin wool or hemp cloth, because their most of their activities were at home. Third, the way to drape the fabric shows the gender differences by changing the length of the clothing and its design ; men's short khiton was practical for big movement and at the same time the clothing exposed the man's body. The woman's doric khiton diversified its decoration by the size of the apotigma and by using the belt. Finally the second formative costume reflected the Greeks' social distinction between a man's body and a woman's body. The man's costume naturally exposed the man's body. On the other hand, the woman's long costume has a variety of shapes on the ground, that concealed her lower body, while the ornamental function was more accentuated than the man's costume. The gender differences expressed in Greek costume fundamentally reflected the point of view of the male and female body and their social roles in society.
Characteristics of Nick Knight's Works as a Fashion Visual Maker
Kim, Ji Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 101~117
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.101
The purpose of this study is to consider the works of Nick Knight, the most influential fashion visual maker, to find out the characteristics of his works. For the research method, literature reviews were done by studying his book, viewing the articles on his official web site, reading journal review of his works and his interview articles. For the work analysis, fashion brands 'Christian Dior', 'Alexander McQueen', 'Martin Margiela', 'Hussein Chalayan' and 'Gareth Pugh' that have worked with Nick Knight were selected. The characteristics of his fashion works were derived from overall analysis of fashion visual works. The characteristics of Nick Knight's works are as follows. First is the 'innovation of image expression'. He used digital infra in advance and introduced digital images at the initial stage. He used fashion films as the means of communication and tried new image expressions in 3D. Second is 'breaking down the boundaries of creating process'. He worked with various field experts to make high quality works. He invited the public to participate in his creative process through the internet. Third is 'breaking down the categories of aesthetic expression'. He provided a wide variety of aesthetic standard and refused aesthetic stereotype. He broke the boundaries between fashion and art with a unique technique and high values.
The Classification of Fashion Frame and Fashion Image of Korean Women in their Twenties and Thirties
Shin, Sae-Young ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 118~131
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.118
The purpose of this study is to take a look at the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties to sort the actual fashion image and the ideal fashion image according to the fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties, and also to find out the standards and features that divide such a classification. For this study, we used the Q method, which is valued as an effective way to assess subjectivity. This helps to objectively classify the perception the fashion images of and the response to them as well. The analyzed materials were divided into two actual fashion frames and two ideal fashion frames, and classified them into 12 fashion image types in total, that is, six actual fashion images and six ideal fashion images, and we named each type of the fashion images and analyzed the features of each fashion image type through the in-depth Q workshop in which 14 professionals participated. The results of this study are as follows: First, the actual fashion frames of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was largely divided into 'Fashion Gold Girl', the fashion frame of mainstream and 'Indi-idol', the fashion frame of subcultures, and this was further divided into six fashion image types: 'Basic Casual', 'Vintage Performer', 'Easy Chic', 'Ladies' Look', 'City Office Girl' and 'Club Mania'. Second, the ideal fashion frame of Korean women in their twenties and thirties was divided into 'Urban Refinement', the fashion frame of the mainstream and 'Mismatched Style', the fashion frame of subcultures. It was also divided into six fashion image types: Power Fashion', 'Fashion Conservative', 'Semi-culture', 'Fashion Otaku', 'Sweet Darling' and 'Fashion Panic'. Third, The characteristics of the fashion images' colors are recognizable according to the type of fashion images.
Physiological Reaction to Brassiere Use
Lee, So-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 132~142
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.132
This study has evaluated the physiological reaction to wearing brassiere as well as the sensations that the wearer feels in order to understand the effect of brassiere use on the human body. Six healthy women in their twenties were used as subjects and the experiment measured the difference in their S.C.L, Skin Temperature, B.V.P and Pulse. The measurements were made in the following conditions: Women not wearing any brassiere, women wearing sports brassiere, and the women wearing wire brassiere. The results showed significant differences in the following areas. 1. S.C.L was found to be the highest when they didn't wear any brassiere, followed by when they wore wire-brassiere and then sports brassiere. 2. The Skin Temperature was found to be the highest when they wore wire-brassiere, followed by when they wore sports brassiere and when they didn't wear any of them. In particular, when they wore sports brassiere, the B.V.P was found to be the highest when they wore none of them, fir skin temperature dropped as time passed. 3.ollowed by when they wore sports brassiere and then wire brassiere. When they wore sports brassiere, they had irregular blood-flow. 4. Pulse was found to be the highest when they didn't wear any of them, followed by when they wore sports brassiere and then wire brassiere. 5. Those who didn't wear any brassiere felt the most chill, followed by those wearing wire brassiere and then sports brassiere. The moisture level was found to be the highest when they wore sports brassiere, followed by when they wore wire brassiere and then when they wore none of them. Comfort level was found to be the best with no brassiere, followed by wire brassiere and then sports brassiere.
A Study on the Brand Image that Appeared in the National Young Casual Brand Advertisement
Kwon, Haekyung ; Kim, Munyoung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 143~157
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.143
Fashion products are goods purchased based on cultural and psychological values derived from a brand image as well as on the physical value of the product itself. Management of brand image has been one of the most important marketing strategies in the fashion industry. In this research, three best-selling young casual brands were tested with 200 male and female subjects to compare brand image, logo image, and advertisement image. The objective of the research were as follows: 1) to explore the effect of advertisement on the purchase of young casual wear and brand image management status through advertisements of domestic brands, and 2) to investigate differences in consumer perception on brand logo image and advertisement image. The results showed that most of young casual brands are depending much on star marketing rather than developing differentiated brand image through advertisements as indicated in brand image management status. Failure in development of differentiated and consistent brand image is a barrier to the long-term and continuous advancement of young casual brands. Therefore, more efforts should be made for the reinforcement of brand image for the consistent growth of domestic young casual brands.
An Analysis of the Cotton Fabric armour(綿甲) in the late Joseon Korea - with Emphasis on the Remaining Artifact in the National Museum of Korea -
Park, Ga Young ; Song, Mi Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 4, 2013, Pages 158~167
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.4.158
The cotton fabric armour for lower class soldiers can be found from the historical records of the mid-Joseon Korea. And the records show that the form and the structure of the armour was modified in the late 19th century in order to provide better protection from gunshots for the soldiers in the midst of the invasions from the West. This is a survey and research of the only artifact of the cotton fabric armour remaining in Korea - for its form, dimensions, and design. Using the historical records as reference, we can confirm the structure and characteristics of the cotton fabric armour of the Joseon period. This cotton fabric armour, preserved in National Museum of Korea, is a vest-type armour made of 30 layers of cotton. On the right shoulder, there is a button for tying knots and strings were tied under both armpits. On the surface of the cotton fabric armour there were some characters and patterns stamped in black. Presently, this artifact in Korea is the only specimen relic of its sort, but there are some other related relics in foreign countries including helmets and belts. Continuous researches would help extend the scope of armour study beyond the traditional researches that only focuses on the armours of the officials, thus helping us to understand the military costumes in traditional Korea.