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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 63, Issue 8 - Dec 2013
Volume 63, Issue 7 - Nov 2013
Volume 63, Issue 6 - Sep 2013
Volume 63, Issue 5 - Aug 2013
Volume 63, Issue 4 - Jun 2013
Volume 63, Issue 3 - Apr 2013
Volume 63, Issue 2 - Feb 2013
Volume 63, Issue 1 - Jan 2013
Selecting the target year
Gothic Chic in High Fashion
Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 1~17
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.001
As style is the center of subcultural identity and the clothes and adornments are the most visible symbol of its membership, the style of Goth symbolizes the strong subcultural identity and acts as the practical basis to demonstrate commitment to the subculture. In the turn of the third millennium, fashion designers have drawn upon and extracted elements from many subcultures to use in their collections. High fashion designers have introduced the Goth style since its inception in the 1980s. The energy and authenticity of Goth has been considered to be desirable in high fashion. The aesthetic property of Goth subcultural style defeats the established notion of standardized fashion and stimulates new consciousness, which makes room for diversification and subdivision. This study attempts to forecast the trends of the 21st century via researching the diffusion of Goth style in high fashion. In order to investigate the aesthetics and styles of Gothic chic, along with literature research, this study investigates the fashion collections from the late 1990s to 2000s as well as the images of street fashion magazines.
The Costumes of 18th Century Joseon Dynasty from Lee Ok's Writings
Choi, Ji-Hee ; Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 18~34
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.018
This paper examines the costumes of 18th century Joseon dynasty that appears in the writings of Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815). The main characteristics that can be inferred about the clothing from his writings are as follows. 1) It suppose that the color of first grade(一品) official uniform was purple. The popular color for the bride's ceremonial dress was red. 2) It was likely that only bridesmaids or married women were allowed to wear Jokduri(ceremonial coronet). 3) White clothes were only preferred in Yeongnam-udo, whereas other regions mainly wore blue, which differs from the national preference for white clothes that was prevalent in the end of the Joseon dynasty. 4) Once cotton was harvested, it only took 5 days to convert it into cotton cloth and be sold on the market. Cotton cloth was one of the most important products during the latter half of the Joseon dynasty. It was common practice in markets to sell expensive costume materials as counterfeits or fungible goods with the intent to cheat. 5) The buddhist monk's hat is various that short cylinder form(短桶帽) and jade or gold headband button(玉圈 金圈) attached shape, etc. Consequently, Lee Ok's writing is a suitable reference for researching Joseon dynasty clothing, since it includes detailed and various descriptions of everyday clothing worn by strict noblemen, which is difficult to find elsewhere.
A Study on the Classification and Versatility of Sarong
Shin, Heysung ; Lee, Eunjin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 35~50
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.035
This thesis is based on the study of formativeness and versatility of Sarong. For the aim of the research, Sarongs were classified into two types: rectangular and tube, using its original form as the basis. These two types of Sarongs were divided into more detailed groups depending on the purposes of attire, such as skirts, dresses, and capes. To look into the formativeness and versatility of Sarong, the usage of wear and expression methods were observed based on these categories. The following results were found regarding the versatility of Sarong: First, Sarong has a wide degree of versatility in terms of usage. It can be worn as a skirt, a head scarf, a dress, a cape, or used as a carrier or even a sleeping bag, based on one's intention. The change of usage is often accompanied with the change of forms, as can be shown by the longyi of Myanmar, the tube type Sarong, which is used as briefs. Second, Sarong has a wide degree of versatility in terms of function. Variations of instrumental and expressive function of Sarong are observed simultaneously. The physical function sometimes coincides with the changes of usage as mentioned above. The way that Sarong's are expressed in different social situations changes depending on the wearer's social status, religion, or origin. So by looking at the way a Sarong is worn, others can tell if a person is going to social events such as festivals and weddings. Third, Sarong has a wide degree of versatility in terms of design. However, even if same usage and function is pursued, the design can be different based on an individual. This is because the external change of Sarong is affected by individuality or aesthetic sense of the wearer.
A Study on the One-Piece's Design Apply to Cheollik
Cho, Min Sug ; Lee, Mi Seok ; Kim, Chung Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 51~60
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.051
The study is intended to produce a modern Cheollik style one-piece dress that stays within the traditional concept of beauty. Specially, the study focuses on Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty among various traditional costumes as its motif. As the Joseon Dynasty changed, the forms of Cheollik changed with it. People of all classes from the commoners to king wore it. Cheolik was different from other traditional costumes because the top and bottom were connected and so it was an easy to wear one-piece clothing. Initially, the ratio of upper and lower parts was one to one, but later on, the ratio changed to 1:2 as the topcoat became wider and length of the skirt was lengthened. Diverse types of pleat emerged such as fine pleat, opposite pleat and long pleat. Collar and string were also diversified and studied by applying the components. To study it, the author considered the previous studies about Cheollik first. Then, the Cheollik of the Joseon Dynasty was reproduced. Thirdly, with the motif of Cheollik components, the materials suitable to a one-piece dress design were selected, dyed naturally. Finally, One piece dress design was utilized by using the components and features of Cheollik. 8 pieces of one-piece dresses were made as an ordinary dress and the materials such as ramie, Oksa, hemp, silk, Yeon-hwamun dan and artificial silk were used. Hopefully, other traditional costumes can develop as a practical and ordinary dress.
Purchase Intention of Fashion Products in Private Shopping Malls - Focused on Usefulness of SNS and Shopping Value -
Cho, Yunjin ; Seo, Sangwoo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 61~71
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.061
As an emerging e-retail model, private shopping malls are transforming the traditional retail systems. These malls are expanding in Europe and the United States and have recently arrived in Korea. This study investigates the relationships among the usefulness of SNS(Social Networking Sites), shopping values, and purchase intentions for fashion products in private shopping malls. The analysis was based on a survey of consumers, aged between 20 and 39, who recently purchased fashion products from a private shopping mall. Two hundred samples were used in the final analysis. The study employed descriptive statistics, Cronbach's alpha, confirmatory factor analysis, and structural equation modeling. The relationships among usefulness of SNS, shopping values, and purchase intentions was verified through structural equation modeling. More specifically, the usefulness of SNS significantly influenced the utilitarian shopping values as well as purchase intention of fashion products. Utilitarian shopping values, in turn, significantly influenced hedonic shopping values and purchase intention. Further, hedonic shopping values had a significant effect on purchase intention.
A Study on the Characteristics of Fashion Illustration in the Fashion Industry
Lee, Eun Jin ; Choi, Yoo Jin ; Kim, Jung Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 72~86
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.072
This research aims to analyze the expressive characteristics of the fashion illustration in various fashion products such as clothing, accessories, other fashion products, and magazine advertisements. Targeting 223 items of products that had adjoined fashion illustration from 2000 to 2008, which had been collected through from magazines and web sites using the fashion illustration expression categorization (expression technique drawing style, body expression, expression image, attaching method to product) based on the theoretical background and the general trends by products. In frequency analysis results, painting technique and graphic technique were of great importance in the expression technique, and shading drawing and contour drawing were of great importance over all product groups for the drawing style. In body expression, exaggerative expression was the highest; simple expression and realistic expression were of great importance over all product groups relatively. In particular, there was a very distinct difference by fashion products in expression image. Humor image has the most importance in fashion clothing and fashion accessories. Casual image is the most important in magazine advertisements, and feminine image is the most important for other fashion products. Lastly, in attaching method to products, finished goods printings made up the largest proportion over all products. In fashion clothing, textile printings was the highest in proportions. Stitch in fashion accessory, the original form of commodity in other fashion products. This study will become a very valuable source in fashion products development using fashion illustrations.
A Reconsideration of the Establishment & Revision of Official's Gongbok During Emperor Hongwu's Reign of the Ming Dynasty
Lee, Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 87~101
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.087
This paper researches the system of the official's gongbok(公服) during the reign of emperor Hongwu(洪武帝) in the Ming dynasty, and it is based on DaMingLing(大明令), DaMingJili(大明集禮), HongwuLizhi(洪武禮制), ZhusiZhizhang(諸司職掌), DaMingHuidian(大明 會典), MingTaizuShilu(明太祖實錄), and MingShi(明史). Official's gongbok is consisted of clothes, belt(帶), bokdu, scepter(笏), and black shoes. The system of official's gongbok wa schanged through three stages. First, the system of the Yuan dynasty(元代) was maintained in January, 1368, which was the first year of the emperor's reign. Second, the gongbok system was established in November, 1368. The system stated that the clothes had to be red-colored(赤色) regardless of rank and the belt was divided into okdai(玉帶), seodai (犀帶), gumdai(金帶), and kwangsoeundai (光素銀帶). Third, the system was revised in June, 1391, which was the 24th year of his reign. According to the rank, the clothing colors were divided into scarlet(緋色), blue(靑色), and green(綠色). The belt was divided into okdai, seodai, gumdai, and ogaggai(烏角帶). 'Hongmu26nyunjung(洪武26年定)' recorded on the Wanli's edition(萬曆本) of the DaMingHuidian has the meaning of ZhusiZhizhang regulations.
Evaluation of Thermal Physiological Responses and Comfort in Dox Fabric
Im, Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 102~114
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.102
This study performed the evaluation of skin temperature, heart rate, humidity and temperature inside clothing, and subjective sensation to estimate the physiological responses of the human body and its feeling of comfort for developing value-added dox fabric. Experiments were performed on five healthy adult women whose average age was 21, at climate chamber in which temperature, relative humidity and air current were set up below
, 0.2m/s, respectively. Two kinds of clothes were used for the experiments: 100% cotton and dox clothes. The clothes were identical in size and form, and the attire consisted of long-sleeved shirts, long trousers, and socks. The experiment was performed for 30 minutes using ergometer. The results are as follows. 1) It showed low skin temperature of forearm, breast, back, forehead and lower leg in exercise, but high skin temperature of them in recovery. However skin temperature of thigh and foot increased from rest to recovery. 2) It showed significant difference (p<0.001, p<0.01) in average skin temperature between cotton and dox clothes. Cotton clothes had a higher average skin temperature compared to dox. Not only was there a significant difference in temperature inside clothing (p<0.001), this was also the case with humidity inside the clothing (p<0.001).
Characteristics of Pattern Design from Dries Van Noten Collection
Kim, Chanju ; Ro, Mikyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 115~131
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.115
Dries Van Noten, one of the Antwerp Six, focused on recreating traditional attire from each region to complex contemporary attire and has shown designs that interpreted ethnic image in contemporary perspective from his very first collection. He has positioned himself as a designer with creative expression of ethnic image through broad use of various patterns. This paper analyze the use of pattern in Dries Van Noten's designs by season and item, and reflects on the characteristics of pattern use and influence on fashion image. Total of 887 clothing items were collected from Noten's collections on the Internet. Through analysis of frequency and percentage and cross tab of expression techniques, types, patterns of each motif, and classifications of print combinations, it was shown that Noten has applied six aesthetic rules in the use of pattern design. Pattern played the most significant role in his design. It was possible to achieve the balance of ethnic image and modern image with the mix of flower and abstract motives. Overall pattern was mostly used for practical purpose: border patterns and spaced patterns played a vital role in rendering uniqueness. Noten exhibited unity and variation in combining prints. He expressed the beauty of Oriental style by inserting solid color blocks in between patterns and decorations along trim lines.
A Study and Analysis on King Heungdeok's Prohibition of Clothing
Jeon, Hyun-Sil ; Kang, Soon-Che ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 132~150
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.132
The purpose of this study is to examine misnomers about King Heungdeok's "Prohibition of Clothing" by comparing the writings of Jeongdukbon [正德本] and Juzabon [鑄字本], which were different versions of the original texts of "Samguksagi [三國史記]", with 11 related books written between 1948 and 2012. In addition, this study is reconsidered the terms about several clothes as well as the values of fabrics. The study has come up with the following conclusions. 1. We suggested the correction about a misnomer in the 11 books and the misnomers for fabric items appeared most frequently. The records of Jeongdukbon about some of the items were different from ones of Juzabon, especially regarding noble woman's sash were written according to the record of Juzabon in most of the related books. However, when the commonplace woman's sash was taken into consideration, we could suppose that the record of Jeongdukbon was more reliable. 2. We examined the terms for Yodae [腰帶] and Yoban. It can be inferred from the original texts that the Yodae were different in material and function compared to the Dae [帶]. In other words, the wearing position of male's metal Yodae was the waist, whereas the females wore their Dae made of fabrics on their chest. An example of this can be seen from the female clay images of Tomb Yonggang-dong [龍江洞]. Moreover, female's Yo and Ban were distinct items on the basis of documents. For this reason, we suggested that Yodae and Yoban should be separated and written in books. 3. We suggested that Ju [紬, silk tabby] might be valuable according to an result of analysis about the value of recorded fabrics. Besides, Po [布, hempcloth] presumably were used as higher quality fabric than Myeonju [綿紬, silk tabby] on some items because Po was graded on the density by each class.
A Study on the Costumes of Superhero in the Movie 'Watchmen'
Kim, Seung-Ah ; Ko, Hyun-Zin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 5, 2013, Pages 151~166
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.5.151
In order to create a national myth and be able to control international society, America with her short national history, used popular culture to accomplish these goals. The medium fit this purpose the best was the use of superhero characters based on comics. Born and developed from the 1930s through the 1960s, which could be seen as America's national crisis era, superhero characters were thorough advocates of American justice and was perfect for the role of spreading the legitimacy of American ideology. From the 1970s, superhero characters became part of movies and became even more influential through the Hollywood's massive film industry and the box office success. American ideology in superhero characters symbolically appeared in movie costumes. Starting with Superman and Batman, the very first and typical superhero characters' costumes work as metaphors for realization of American justice. After the 1980s, superheroes were newly developed through a genre called graphic novel and the most representative piece of this genre is Alan Moore's Watchmen. In the Watchmen, which was also turn into a movie in 2009, six changed superhero characters appear ranging from a non-human superhero, villain superhero, superhero with mental disorder and superhero with sexual impotency, the characters were never-seen-before superheroes with different aspects that connote introspection and philosophical ideology. The changed type of heroes and ideology became another form of heroes, and this brought changes to character costumes that were never considered before. The superhero costumes that used to symbolize America now express different types of superhero by borrowing exotic mythical elements, undressing, pastiche and daily life clothes. The superhero characters and their changes in costumes from Watchmen imply American popular culture's introspective tendency. Amongst these changes, we need to raise our critical vision towards popular culture.