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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 63, Issue 8 - Dec 2013
Volume 63, Issue 7 - Nov 2013
Volume 63, Issue 6 - Sep 2013
Volume 63, Issue 5 - Aug 2013
Volume 63, Issue 4 - Jun 2013
Volume 63, Issue 3 - Apr 2013
Volume 63, Issue 2 - Feb 2013
Volume 63, Issue 1 - Jan 2013
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Plural Eclecticism and the Aesthetic Characteristics in Stage Costume - Focused on the World's Top 4 Musicals -
Jun, Yuh-Sun ; Kim, Jang-Hyeon ; Kim, Young-Sam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 1~13
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.001
The purpose of this study is to examine the trend of plural eclecticism in costumes appearing on the stages of the world's top 4 musicals based on the general researches and establishments made of the mentioned concept. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, the aspects of eclectics appearing in overall pieces can be defined as situational eclecticism. It can be attributed to the dramatic elements contrasted in the storyline of the musical and occurs in mixture with various situations. Showing combinations of costumes from varying situations at once in the same stage makes the audience feel the dynamic elements of the piece. Second, the aspect of temporal eclecticism, which can be seen in the 'Phantom of the Opera' regarding mixture of crinoline style and art nouveau style, resulted from the partial mixture of classical elements for maximizing visual beauty in the historical pieces. Third, the aspect of spatial eclecticism can be observed in the musical 'Miss Saigon', which used costumes that combined multicultural elements by exposing different spaces and cultures such as America and Vietnam. It eclectically expresses the unique cultures and costumes of each country. Fourth, 'Les Miserables' shows the aspect of situational eclecticism, through its use of mixture of situations in various aspects, and in particular, the male and female costumes that blur the boundaries of life, death, and costume, the mixture of people's costume and aristocrat's costume, and the situational elements where the good and evil are contrasted are integrated eclectically to make the story dramatic.
The Characteristics of Black Culture Inherent in the American Casual Fashion Design
Yum, Misun ; Kim, Youngin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 14~28
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.014
This study aims to identify the elements of black culture and use it to analyze the formative characteristics of casual fashion items as well as the symbolic meanings presented in the graphic designs of the items. First of all, in order to distinguish the identity of black culture, this study made a division into racial, social, and artistic aspects based on cultural specificities of Stuart Hall, a culture theorist. This was for a theoretical review and based on this review, a theoretical framework was developed to analyze the characteristics of American casual fashion design of black people. The case study selected 1719 fashion images of 137 male brands and 33 female brands from websites of companies manufacturing casual wear of black people in America. The following is a summary of the study results. The conceptual characteristics based on specificities of black culture can be categorized into ten attributes: playfulness in order to digest human grief and emotion positively, satire of the mainstream society, spontaneity through emotional expression from the heart, abstractness of various emotions elating suffering, humor trying to express negative aspects as the meaning of light and innocent laughter, dependence with passive attitudes toward discrimination and master-slave relationships in history, resistance against discrimination and disadvantages, African orientation and primitiveness pursuing natural conditions, aggressiveness against violence and unfair treatment, and confidence and defiance against social deprivation and corruption. Based on the results of an analysis through formative classification system founded on racial, social, and artistic aspects of black people, specificities of black culture are of formative characteristics of their casual fashion design. These elements are presented on graphic t-shirts through strong colors, loose silhouette, and details with many pockets. These characteristics were reflected in symbolic meanings presented in the graphic.
Discourse On the Male Body Represented In Fashion Advertisement
Park, Seon-Ji ; Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 29~39
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.029
In this study, the image of the male body represented in fashion advertisement is analyzed based on discourses on the male body. Fashion brand advertisements, which emphasized the images of the male body, were selected from two magazines: GQ, a men's magazine, and VOGUE, a representative women's magazine. The published dates of the selected images were from Feb. 2010 to Oct. 2012, and these images were used for the analysis. The study results of the discourse on the male body appearing in fashion advertisement based on the discussion of changing masculinity suggests the following 4 features: i) macho, powerful and muscular male representing the hegemonic manhood; ii) refined and decorated male representing the wealthy and disengaged figure of a successful businessman; iii) androgynous male represented by the deconstruction of masculinity and femininity embedded in gender; iv) as an aesthetic object, the male with sex role of changed from a subject to an ornament, whose body becomes the object of voyeuristic view. This study tried to grasp the ideal and modern masculinity, and in particular, attempted to offer suggestions in different approaches to the male body image depending on the consumer type in order to enhance the brand image. This new masculinity is thought to be a foundation on which the advertisement and products suitable for the demands of future customers can be produced.
A Study on Chinese Students' Clothing Purchase and Wearing Condition
Nam, Young-Ran ; Kim, Ji-Young ; Choi, Hei-Sun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 40~55
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.040
The purpose of this study was to find ways to increase sales and enhance of the competitiveness of the Korean fashion brands expanding into the Chinese market by conducting a survey of the Chinese female students in order to gather data regarding their preferences and features so that clothes that are more suitable for Chinese women can be designed. For this study, a survey was conducted to 305 students attending universities or language schools located in the metropolitan areas near Seoul who had exposure to Korean clothes. The study results can be summed up as follows: According to the analysis, the Chinese students preferred comfortable, practical, and casual styles. And the analysis shows that they prefer achromatic monotonous colors rather than vivid colors or splendid and complex patterns. The students felt that Korean clothes reflected the trends very well, and they also showed very high satisfaction with the design. The most common way of gathering information for their clothing purchase was through Internet search and magazine advertisements. The survey showed that the biggest strength of the Korean fashion brands was their ability to reflect the fast changing fashion trends in their designs, and they were very much satisfied with their diverse designs and colors. Among the domestic fashion brands, they prefer domestic SPA brands such as MIXXO, SPAO, and 8IGHT SECONDS.
A Study on the Construction of Court Dresses in the Daehan Empire - focused on the coat pattern -
Lee, Kyung-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 56~68
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.056
A purpose of this study is to do fundamental research of construction of coat patterns in the Daehan Empire in order to make replicas of the costumes. This study is composed of literature research, investigation of artifacts, and experiment of pattern making. The results of this study are as follows. First, even if the 15th Court Dress Rules regulated color, fabric, number of flower, width of braid, and size of button, there was no regulation regarding the shape of the coat. The analysis of the photos in those periods shows that the style of the tailcoat was different from that of today in the length of the front, the shape of breast and collar. Second, six artifacts in the collection showed that the shoulder line and the sideline were located on the further rear side than the current tailcoat. This can be confirmed in the western and Japanese pattern book, and especially the pattern drafting method in the books published in Japan in 1900s is different from current one in setting base lines of front bodice and back bodice. As a result, based on several experiments, this study proposes how to make coat patterns. The shoulder line, the sideline, and the princess line should be located in the back of the dress similar to the shape of swallowtail coats of 1900s. The front bodice should be constructed without the composition line in order to add embroidery on it. The collar, which shape looks like long half moon, should form V-shape neckline in the front breast when adjusting dress. The sleeves should be constructed top and down, and it should curve more than the modern design.
Study on Costumes of Greek Mythology Gods in Films
Rhew, Soohyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 69~83
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.069
This research is to analyze costumes of Greek Mythology Gods in films using Morris' semiotics. In film "Clash of The Titans", Zeus' costume of shining gold armored body suit and long manteaux expressed the limitless sublime. The definite form contouring body shape of his costume also demonstrated classical beauty. Hades' costume of dark colored armor, long manteaux, and transformation via smoke also described the limitless sublime. The unbalanced and irregular shaped armor showed ugliness. In "Percy Jackson & The Olympians: The Lightening Thief", the armor and long manteaux of Zeus showed the limitless sublime. The beauty of his body and his sophisticated business wear indicated classical beauty. These features were also present in Poseidon's costume as well. The limitless sublime and ugliness are implied in Hades' look by portraying him as having a monster body with horns and wings, and his costume of punk look. In "Immortals", gods of Olympus wore clothing that was reminiscent of Egyptian times, which represented a time of strong royal authority, in order to expose the limitless sublime. Classical beauty was shown in the beauty of their body. Titans' costumes and look of non-human being were composed of black and red to present ugliness. The inherent meanings of Gods' costumes are death of god, patriarchy, and the good triumphing over the evil. The Greek gods are not held in the same reverence in the contemporary society. However mythology inspires lots of visual creations. The results help to accumulate a creative design database for fashion.
Inherent Properties of Fashion Accepted as Art through Expansion of Contemporary Art
Suh, Seung-Hee ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 84~96
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.084
In researching the ontological status of fashion, a good grasp of fashion can decide the direction of fashion study. Fashion is sometimes considered an area of industry far from art from a point of view of purity of art, in spite of its aesthetic value and expression. However, art properties can be differentiated from the purity of art in modern aesthetics, and fashion properties which were the reason for that fashion to be considered as non-art can be affirmed as the same with properties of contemporary art properties. Therefore, the purpose of this study was to suggest the possibility that general properties of fashion can be accepted in the art arena through justifying art properties deviating from the purity of art. It can provide a boost to fashion's cultural status. For the research method, a literature review and case analysis were carried out through specialty publications related to art history, aesthetics, and fashion, regular publications and websites specializing in fashion, and art museums. Through the research, art properties deviated from the purity of art, which are; tactile sense, impermanence, dailiness, and commercial viability, were justified as being the same as fashion properties. These art properties were not general properties of fine art in modern aesthetics, but the ones occurring in contemporary arts. These properties, now present in contemporary art, can no longer disqualify fashion as a non-art.
Development Paradigm of Repression and Desire Embodied by Body and Clothing
Jeong, Ki-Sung ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 97~112
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.097
In this study, physical, social and psychological repression embodied by the body and clothing are referred to instinctual, power and creative desires, respectively, from the point of biological, social and aesthetic views. Desire refers to a behavior to overcome men's imperfections with individual security, sense of belonging and the pursuit of an ideal, which are obtained by living as a social creature. Repression through the body is sub-categorized depending on whether it is temporary or permanent. Repression expressed through clothing is seen through revealing/concealing, contraction/expansion, and deconstruction/ reconstruction. What enables human beings to embrace changes in fashion without fierce resistance or backlash is the changes of formativeness demonstrated by repression through the body and clothing. The aesthetic values drawn from the exhibition of repression and on the body and clothing are categorized into narcissism, fetishism and aestheticism. While narcissism is an instinctive desire grounded on the originality and confidence of the self that results in refusing repression, fetishism is a desire for power that expedites repression in the pursuit of materialistic value or sexual fantasy. Aestheticism is a desire for creativity that symbolizes the body-and-clothing repression in the pursuit of aesthetic idealism. Repression evokes desire, and the pursuit of desire leads to another repression. The aesthetic values of desire for instinct, power and creativity can be substituted with each other for interpretation according to the attitudes of an initiator, a user and a spectator.
A Study on the Mannequins for the Display of Hanbok
Kim, Yeo Kyung ; Kim, Jeong Min ; Hong, Na Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 113~126
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.113
The purpose of this study is to analyze the current use of mannequins that are designed to display Hanbok and put forward suggestions for improvement. In order to carry out the study, an analysis on the mannequins that are currently in the market was conducted along with a survey with professionals who are in charge of the display. The significance of the study is that it has gathered the opinions of professionals who are currently participating in the displays of Hanbok to lay the foundation for improvements. As Hanbok is a flat-pattern costume unlike the Western ones, the most prominent way to display is to lay them on the floor or hang them on the wall. Nevertheless, the mannequin displays are needed to show the beauty of Hanbok as the silhouette can only be completed when it is put on a body. A new type of mannequins that can portray the distinctive features of Korean beauty more effectively need to be developed. Although the museum and enterprise slightly differ in their preferences and requirements for the mannequins, both agree on the following criteria; the shape should be adjusted: the protruding breasts of the mannequin are not suitable for Hanbok, the body should be disassembled: all parts of the body should be separable and it should be flexible at the joints so that it can produce various poses, the face should represent the "koreaness" and the material should be soft. Based on these findings, we put forth the suggestion that a more suitable mannequin should be developed to portray the beauty of Hanbok.
Study on Clothing Life of Korea-Vietnam Multicultural Families - Focus on clothing behaviors and attitudes toward traditional dresses -
Son, Jin Ah ; Nam, Yun Ja ; Kweon, Jun Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 127~139
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.127
This research is designed to provide basic data to study the life and culture of multicultural families in Korea by taking a look at the clothing behaviors and attitudes toward traditional dresses. To this end, quantitative research was conducted on Korea-Vietnam multicultural families and Korean families. The surveys of the Korean families were completed by 250 married women in Seoul, and those of Korea-Vietnam multicultural families by 104 married Vietnamese women living in Seoul, Gyeonggi-do and Incheon. The data were analyzed using frequency analysis, factor analysis, t-test, crosstabs and
-test. The findings are as follows: First, the comparison of clothing behaviors of the Korean families and the Korea-Vietnam multicultural families found that they had statistically significant differences in values towards clothes, clothes shopping orientation and clothes purchasing behaviors. The Korean women were more involved in clothes and fashion-oriented than their Vietnamese counterparts. However, the Vietnamese women in their 20s were likely to rely more on social trends than their own needs when purchasing clothes compared to their Korean counterparts. Korean families preferred to shop in department stores, while the multicultural families relied more on discount stores and outlets. Second, the comparison of the Korean families and the Korea-Vietnam families in attitudes toward their own traditional dresses and how often to wear them showed statistically meaningful differences. The Korean group had more negative attitudes toward Hanbok, the Korean traditional dresses than the Vietnamese group. The Vietnamese women showed more interest in information on Hanbok than their Korean counterparts. They also were wearing the Korean traditional dresses more often than the Korean families. In addition, the Vietnamese women showed a stronger tendency than the Korean women that they took pride in their country's traditional dresses and believed that they were beautiful.
A Study on Fashion Design Incorporating Korean-Style Motifs - Focusing on the Comparative Analysis of the Shape of Hanbok (Korean traditional clothes) Skirts and Skirt Silhouette -
Kang, Gyeong-Rim ; Kim, Jeong-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 6, 2013, Pages 140~149
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.6.140
The study aims to suggest new skirt designs through a modernistic application of the silhouette of Hanbok skirts. It also aims to promote the aesthetic beauty and excellence of Hanbok to the world by using Hanbok skirts that best express the beauty of Korea as motifs, and to promote a pride in Korean culture through a reinterpretation of Hanbok skirts. The study was focused on examining Hanbok skirts from the Three Kingdoms era to the Joseon Dynasty, and the skirts in each era were compared to western silhouettes to suggest design centering on the characteristics of each silhouette. As for the theoretical background, shapes were classified according to waist-grip, the width and length of a skirt, wrinkles and ornamental lines, before being compared to skirt silhouettes of western costume. As a result, it was found that Hanbok skirt silhouettes in the Three Kingdoms era were similar to the A-Line silhouette of western costume, the Empire silhouette of unified Silla, the H-Line silhouette of the Goryeo Dynasty, the Bell-Line silhouette of the Joseon Dynasty and the Bustle Style applied to ceremonial costume in the early Joseon Dynasty. The researcher suggested five skirt designs by applying the above-mentioned five silhouettes, confirming the research premise that Hanbok skirt silhouettes are as diversified as those found in western costume. Designs were suggested for each silhouette, and are expected to lead to the development of designs befitting future trends and concepts through detailed research and development on Hanbok skirt silhouettes.