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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 63, Issue 8 - Dec 2013
Volume 63, Issue 7 - Nov 2013
Volume 63, Issue 6 - Sep 2013
Volume 63, Issue 5 - Aug 2013
Volume 63, Issue 4 - Jun 2013
Volume 63, Issue 3 - Apr 2013
Volume 63, Issue 2 - Feb 2013
Volume 63, Issue 1 - Jan 2013
Selecting the target year
The Characteristic of a Functional Design for a Commercial Outdoor-Wear Jacket
Lee, Young-Wha ; Seo, Moon-Jung ; Seo, In-Kyung ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 1~16
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.001
The objective of this study is to analyze the characteristic of a functional design for a commercial outdoor brand jacket based on 3 types of functions : windproof, waterproof, and cold proof. To analyze the design and fabric characteristics of outdoor jackets by function, 903 men's and women's outdoor jacket images were selected from the catalogues during S/S 2009 - F/W 2011 of the 6 brands: The North Face, Columbia Sports Wear, Kolon Sports, K2, Arcteryx and Mont-Bell. These brands were selected based on their high market share and brand awareness of the outdoor brands in Korea. In this study, design elements analysis was conducted as following 8 elements: hood/collar height/central front flap/waistline/pocket location/ventilation for the body part/sleeve patterns/cuff for the sleeve part. Fabrics were analyzed by the frequency of fabric types used in the 3 jacket types. According to the result derived from the analysis of the six brands of outdoor wear jacket design trends by year, detachable hood and a co-use of velcro and elastic bands have been mainly designed for all of windproof, waterproof, and cold proof jacket to all in order to respond quickly to changes in the external environment. For reinforced storage function on trekking, the number of pockets has been gradually growing, and a function was being developed to connect an electronic device to a pocket. The method, result, and collateral observations relevant to each of these phases are described. Outdoor jacket design characteristics were investigated for outdoor brands, which can provide data to suggest more accurate functional design, and satisfy functional design needs. In this regard, this research was significant in the sense that it suggested preliminary data to reconsider competitiveness of the brand products.
The Impacts of Store Attributes and Shopping Orientation on Store Patronage for the Imported Fashion Multi-Brand Shop
Lee, Jee Ah ; Lee, Soo Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 17~30
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.017
An understanding of store patronage behavior is a critical issue for retail managers, especially when it comes to a new kind of retail store, as it enables them to identify and target potential customers. Reflecting this managerial need, this study is focused on the fashion multi-brand shop, specifically investigating its store attributes, customers' shopping orientation, and store patronage. Accepting the shifting marketing paradigm from 4P's marketing mix to 7P's marketing mix, the 7P's marketing mix is employed in this study to measure the store attributes, including people(sales oriented and customer oriented), price, place, promotion, physical environment, process, and product. The store attributes significantly influencing patronization are found as customer oriented sales people, product, physical environment, and process. The shopping orientations of the customers, 222 female adults aged from 20s to 40s are found as ostentatious, pleasant, fashion pursuant, rational, and addictive. The consumers who are ostentatious, pleasant, and fashion pursuant are highly likely to be patronize to the fashion multi-brand shops.
A Study on the Yi Mae-Bang's Salpurichum Costume
Jeong, Ye-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 31~48
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.031
It goes without saying that Yi Mae-Bang, as the sole owner of two of the intangible cultural assets including No. 27 Seungmu in 1987 and No. 97 Salpuri Chum, is a top-notch Korean traditional dancer. Moreover, in regards to traditional clothing, he is also known as the only traditional dancer who directly performs on stage as well as analyzes traditional clothing in order to apply them into his own dance performances by designing and producing them to meet his artistic spirit. In order to examine how Yi Mae-Bang's unique and creative stage clothing was developed, and what kind of process it went through to possess its unique style, which draws the attentions of people with its harmony of beauty and dance, this research first examined the change of the composition through the yearly picture data. Before 1984, the composition of the Salpuri Chum clothes changed by putting on 'Jeogori' on the 'Mudong-Bok' without the 'Kweia' (sleeveless), and in 1999 'Mudong-Bok' became widened with the decoration of embroidered hem making it more attractively colorful. after 2000 it became more splendidly adorned by embroidering hem on widened Mudong-Bok and tucking 'Kweja' in the layers which created silhouette like a dress that is seemingly wider and luxuriant than a skirt. One of notable features of Yi Mae-Bang's Salpuri is that its cloth and cuff ribbons are lightly colored in different colors enclosing the tip part. As for the ribbons, it was also changed as time went by from direct-cutting of the cloth just like the A-line of Mudong-Bok to drawing a diagonal line less than 5cm above the ribbon and 8cm below the ribbon so that it takes the form of getting widened as it gets to the lower part, and its length was also elongated in proportion to that of the bottom of Mudong-Bok.
A Study on the Cultural Products using the Mugunghwa Motif in Museum
Kim, Yeo Kyung ; Kim, Jeong Min ; Hong, Na Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 49~64
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.049
Mugunghwa, one of the most prominent national symbols of Korea, is a significant design source for producing cultural products. However, there has been a limitation to reflecting the identity of Korea using the design due to a lack of study and analysis of characteristics of Mugunghwa in history. Therefore, the researchers analyzed the design characteristics of Mugunghwa in cultural artifacts such as costumes, money, and stamps. Based on this, the study puts forward the following suggestions. First, the patterns of Mugunghwa should be categorized as a solo figure, a flower with pastels and the stem and a group of flowers as a unit. Second, there are two ways of expressing the flower: using realism and abstraction. Mugunghwa comprises of five pastels with elongated depth in the middle. The pastels spread out like the spokes of a wheel from the center; leaving a feeling of unevenness and the rims of the pastels are shaped in waves. The study puts forward the following suggestion: First, find the prototypes for different design characteristics. Second, develop motifs and patterns that reflect the given prototypes. Finally, apply the design to most popular cultural items such as T-shirts, neckties and bags. The ultimate purpose of the study lies with the hope that it will contribute to promoting the Korean beauty throughout the world.
A Study on the Methodology of Excavated-Costumes - With a Focus on the Cases of Excavated Costumes from the Grave of Nor Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family -
Chung, Young-Ran ; Song, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 65~78
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.065
This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.
Study on the Form and Character of Gold Thread in Weave with Supplementary Gold Wefts·Embroidery
Sim, Yeon Ok ; Lee, Seon Yong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 79~93
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.079
In the Korean literature, records of systematic gold thread manufacturing such as gold foil(金 箔匠), gold foil bonded with fabrics(付金匠), gold foil bonded with paper materials(金箋紙匠), refining gold(鍊金匠), cutting gold(裁金匠), and making gold thread(絲金匠) can be easily found. We can infer from these literatures that the Korean people used to make gold threads. However, is not existent the gold thread making technique. Thus, a research was done using 67 pieces of gold thread artifacts used in textiles craft of Korea, China and Japan. The purpose of this research was to identify the characteristics of the Korean gold thread by studying the artifacts' form classification, gold foil, glue and the base. First, gold thread is divided into flat gold thread and wrapped gold thread. Wrapped gold thread was made in more various methods such as with a paper on the flat gold thread, metal thread and wrapped gold thread with gold foil on top. Compared to the flat gold thread, wrapped gold thread uses a thread that has a thinner and wider. Through this analysis, even making of the base of the gold threads was different according to the type. Secondly, we looked into the characteristics of materials according to form structure of the gold thread. After analysis of experiment results, we could know that to attach Korean gold thread, glue and the mixture of materials such as Red soil(朱土) was also added. The kinds of the base of gold threads were identified as paper, leather and intestines. Among those materials, for paper, Korea's Dakji, China's Sangpiji(桑皮紙) and Jukji(竹紙) and Japan's Anpiji(雁皮紙) seemed to have all been used, so because of the difference among countries, we can prove that Korea has also produced gold thread. By looking at the research, the base of gold threads and making features hugely vary according to the area.
The Style Characteristics and Illustration of Armors Worn by high Navy Officers During the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592~1598)
Lee, Joo-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 94~108
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.094
This study is about the armors that high navy officers of Joseon wore during the period of Japanese invasion of Korea(1592~1598). The kinds of armors that these officers wore during this period are Sueungap, cheolgap, pigap, jigap and myeongap. Sueungap, cheolgap, pigap are all described in literatures, which were released in that period and the early Joseon period. According to publications that were released during that period, Yuyeopgap was a type of an iron armor. Armors that are recorded in only literatures published in the early Joseon period include swaejagap, gyeongbeongap, dujeonggap, hwangdongdujeonggap and dudumigap. Myeongap is found only in publications that were made in the above war time. The styles of armors are largely classified into chalgap and dujeonggap. The chalgap-styled armors used gapchal as their main component. Dujeonggap-styled armors used fabrics and dujeong. The names and the manufacturing methods of the gapchal did not changed since its creation in the early Joseon period until the above wartime. But, their shapes were considerably changed between the two times. This is clearly shown in armors that were found in the moat of the Dongrae-eup fortress. Dujeonggap-styled armors that were used during the period of the Japan-Korea war were a successor to those of dujeonggap-styled armors of the early Joseon period. But the former armors were different from the latter in that they had no gapchal inside. They are well represented by Jeong Chung Sin's armor.
The Influences of Impulse Buying on the Emotion of Regret According to Product and Shopping Mall Types and the Differences of Regret Solution Efforts by Impulse Buying Consumer Types - Focusing on the Internet Purchase of Fashion Products -
Ji, Hye-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 109~120
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.109
The purpose of this study is to find out the various impulse buying factors which influence the emotion of regret in the internet purchase of fashion products and to measure the differences of regret solution efforts according to impulse buying consumer types. This study surveyed females in their 20s~40s for empirical analysis in August 2012, and it targeted women who have experienced impulse buying of fashion products in the internet mall. 297 subjects were collected for the data, and they were subjects who were selected through online convenience sampling. This study surveyed females in their 20s~40s for empirical analysis in August 2012 who have ever experienced impulse buying of fashion products in the internet mall. Data were collected for 297 subjects who were selected through online convenience sampling. For statistical analysis, descriptive statistics, factor analysis, regression analysis, cluster analysis, and ANOVA were carried out using SPSS for Windows 12.0. The results of this study are as follows. First, it was identified that impulse buying by refreshing, accidental, promotion, recommendation stimulus have significant influence on the regret of consumer after impulse buying. Second, there are significant differences in the factors of impulse buying which influence the regret according to the impulse buying products and the shopping malls. Third, there are significant differences in regret relieving behavior according to the impulse buying consumer types. This study will help internet shopping malls to find out the action plans to handle consumers' regret from impulse buying.
Study on Competitive Fighting Game SSF4 Han Ju-Ri's Fashion
Yoon, Kyoung Hee ; Cho, Woo Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 121~133
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.121
The globalization of the world, fueled by the Internet, made possible for individuals to access the cultures around the world, other than their own, easier than ever before. But among those rapidly sought out sub-cultures, the video gaming industry, once a niche market mostly for nerds and geeks, now has become one of the biggest entertainment businesses in the world. In a video game, one of the critical elements that could determine its success or failure is the characters featured in the game. And as the countless number of animated characters from many different video games from the past few years have become incredibly popular among the audiences around the world, the expectations from the fans also grow higher every time a new game comes out. Ultimately this has forced the video game developers to come up with more unique and interesting characters for their video games. And at this point, where a video game character is more than just fictional fantasy but a brand to be recognized, it is worth paying proper attention to the video game characters that represent Korea. Hence in this study, we will take a look at Han Ju-Ri, a Korean character featured in Super Street Fighter IV, a competitive fighting game developed by Capcom, one of the world's most recognized video game companies that started its life as an arcade video game, developer but eventually ventured its business into the online world. The study will propose a complete overhaul of the character by incorporating Korea's own traditional looks.
A Study on the Generative Structure of the Meaning and the Binary-Opposition in the Convergence of Fashion Design and Technology as a Emotional Method - Focused on Fashion Design Collections -
Lee, Jee Hyun ; Kim, Jieun ; Ryu, Lim Jeong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 134~147
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.134
Today, the convergence of fashion design and digital technology has become a popular method and accordingly been tried variously in the fashion area. This study aimed to analyze the character of the collaboration with fashion and technology, and the meaning of technology as emotional expression methods. Selected designer's collections, literature and other related studies were reviewed in order to analyze the generative structure of the meaning and the binary-opposition in the convergence of body, fashion design and technology. Literatures and selected designer's collections were reviewed and quantitatively studies were performed to classify the convergence of human bodies, fashion design and technology through Greimas Semiotics rectangle based on binary-opposition of meaning and isotophy analysis. The research presents three types of fashion technology methods: mechanical movement, light/digital media, and virtual image. The convergence of fashion and technology was classified as the direct convergence and the indirect convergence. The direct convergence was characterized by variability and has automatic, independent movement, but the indirect convergence was shown closed and to have contradistinctive images.
Quantitative Research for Investigating Internal Structure and the Influence on Brand Attachment, Commitment, Loyalty of Fashion Brand Authenticity
Seo, Sangwoo ; Lee, Yuri ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 148~163
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.148
The purpose of this study is to examine the attributes and internal structure of fashion brand authenticity, which is a new concept of brand association. For quantitative research, a total of 591 samples of consumer survey were taken from 24th of August to 7th of September, 2009. The results of this study were as follows: 1) The scale for the fashion brand authenticity was developed, which consisted of 33 questions. These questions estimated a total of 8 dimensions, including heritage, authority, relationship to place, consistency, non-popularity, trend leading, originality, and ethics. 2) The internal structure of the fashion brand authenticity was confirmed. The internal structure was constituted into core attributes and promoted attributes. 3) The relationship between the fashion brand authenticity and consumer related variables were found. The core attributes of authenticity were putting positive influence directly on brand loyalty. However, paths through brand attachment or brand commitment were not found. The promoted attributes showed that it had a direct negative influence on brand loyalty, but it has also showed positive influence on paths, which underwent brand attachment and commitment.
A Study on the Origin and Clothing Composition of the Yemou
Chang, Inwoo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 164~175
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.164
This study examined the Yemou(a hat for a dead woman) from the ladies' clothes excavated from the Lady Lee's tomb in order to trace the significance of the clothing composition and its social origin in the Chosun dynasty. The compositional characteristic of Yemou covers the body of the hat which is not connected with the cover, Wonsal which has a round shape that covers the face of the dead body, and two Gae(a ribbon on the backside of a hat). Seongho Lee-ik(one of representative Confucian scholars in the Chosun dynasty) stated in his book entitled "Seongho Notes", that the structural elements of Yemou originated in Yum(wrapping cloth for the head of a dead body). According to Seongho, Yemou's body part came from the scarf used to cover the head. Wonsal(the cloth of round shape for covering the face) and Gae were derived from Yum made of two ends of long cloth for covering and binding the head of a dead body. Yongjae Kim-kunhang(one of Confucian scholars in the late-Chosun dynasty) demonstrated in his "Yongjae Collection" the social background of the emergence of Yemou. Yemou was the hat produced from the process of nationalizing the Chinese courtesy of clothing. In other words, Bokgun(a man's hat) in the Chosun dynasty replaced the Chinese Yum. Unlike the Chinese custom, man and woman in the Chosun dynasty wore different clothes respectively. According to the clothing custom of the Chosun dynasty a woman wore a female hat, Yemou instead of men's Bokgun.
(A) Study on the Formative Characteristics of Embroidery Panels of Hwarot at the Victoria and Albert Museum
Kwon, Hea Jin ; Kim, Jiyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 7, 2013, Pages 176~188
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.7.176
This research examines embroidery panels of Hwarot belonging to the Victoria and Albert Museum (the V&A). There are a total of seven objects and are all disassembled into clothe pieces. They were classified into two groups according to their acquisition year. One group, four objects, was acquired by the Museum in 1920. Considering their materials, embroidery threads, techniques and formative characteristics of patterns, it can be assumed that the objects formed an original dress, Hwarot. Although they look very similar to the embroidery patterns of Hwarot belonging to National Folklore Museum of Korea, they are more finely embroidered with very thin embroidery thread that uses the Jarisu technique. There are some differences in used embroidery threads and embroidery skills between Hwarot artifacts of the National Museum of Korea and the V&A. The embroidery of the National Museum of Korea used thicker threads and longer (approximately 0.7cm) Jarisu stitch techniques. With these details, they would have been made in different time periods. Comparison of the V&A and Changdeok Palace' Hwarot objects show that their patterns' motifs are almost similar but the pattern units, expressions and embroidery techniques are different. Regarding the colors of their patterns, it is noticeable that the peonies are generally expressed in reddish and the lotus patterns are expressed in either bluish or purplish color. It seems that they are contrasted with red-colored flowers and show harmony between yin and yang symbolically. Three artifacts of another group were acquired in 1925. Two of them show patterns almost the same as those of the sleeves of Hwarot (no.33156, no.33158) in Chicago Field Museum collection. The pattern of the remaining object is very similar to Hansam of Hwarot (no.33158).