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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 63, Issue 8 - Dec 2013
Volume 63, Issue 7 - Nov 2013
Volume 63, Issue 6 - Sep 2013
Volume 63, Issue 5 - Aug 2013
Volume 63, Issue 4 - Jun 2013
Volume 63, Issue 3 - Apr 2013
Volume 63, Issue 2 - Feb 2013
Volume 63, Issue 1 - Jan 2013
Selecting the target year
A Study of Korean Culture of Embroidery Art in Modern Times
Kwon, Hea Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 1~13
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.001
This study examines the processes and characteristics of modern Korean embroidery art from the beginning of Korean modern times to 1945 which was the year of independence from Japan. An objective basis is presented by the analysis of articles and illustrations from the press and publications of the corresponding times. The significance of this study is to research the modern Korean embroidery art, which connected traditional times with modern Korean culture in order to investigate its identity. Due to Korea's modern embroidery art being started in the Japanese colonial times, there are some limits in it because of it being influenced by Western modern embroidery art and Japanese embroidery design. However, modern Korean embroidery art expanded from the private space to public space such as schools, open lectures and exhibitions. It has also accepted diverse foreign embroidery forms, which have been commercialized and accepted as art. The embroidery craft as commerce and art has given women the chance to achieve economic independence and to improve their social status. Modern Korean embroidery was art for the modern woman who had been educated in academic art, as well as a liberal art for wealthy housewives. It was the foundation of economic independence for poor rural women. It can be concluded that Modern Korean embroidery art has been accepted and developed by women in modern times.
The Comparative Study of the First Ladies' Fashion Style from a Perspective of Modernism and Postmodernism - Centering around Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama -
Lee, Misuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 14~26
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.014
The purpose of this study is to compare and analyze Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama's fashion style from a perspective of modernism and postmodernism. The method utilized in this study was first, to examine the properties of modernism and postmodernism. Next, we explored the types of role performance of the first ladies and the application of their fashion as an aid to their roles through the precedents of the research concerning modernism and postmodernism. The results of the study are as follows. First, there was a trend of formalism and anti-formalism. Jacqueline Kennedy made her public appearances wearing a formal dress in order to express the first lady's authoritarian figure of restrained elegance. The fashion of the first lady aspired to formalism. Meanwhile, Michelle Obama followed more of a free style by eschewing the typical formality of the first lady. She created diverse styles utilizing a variety of items, which were not interrupted by form or by using heterogeneous items. Second, there is a trend of elitism and populism. While Jacqueline Kennedy preferred only haute couture designers' costume in order to show the prestige and dignity of the upper class, Michelle Obama patronized unknown designers' clothing or mid-level casual brand goods that the public favors in order to interact with the public through her fashion. Third, while modernism regards totality or unity to be important, postmodernism puts an emphasis on the eclecticism by pursuing complexity and diversity through the deconstruction of an indigenous genre. In case of Jacqueline Kennedy, this tendency featured monotone clothing color, which presented a unified full set dress that excluded decoration. Michelle Obama, in contrast, mixed and matched formal dresses and a casual cardigan or felicitously mixed luxury brand or low to middle priced brand goods.
The Computerized 3-D Clothing Simulation for the Evaluation of Men's Working Pants
Park, Gin Ah ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 27~42
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.027
The study was aimed to develop men's working pants patterns through the computerized 3-D virtual clothing simulation system and to verify the effects of the 3-D simulated outfit by comparing it to the images of the actual outfits. The average body measurements of South Korean men aged between 30 and 39 used for the simulation in order to generate a 3-D virtual model and to realize outfits of men's working pants for the workers in the heavy industry in South Korea. And also the preliminary questionnaire survey results on certain aspects of the working pants such as type, detailed design preference and discomforting parts were taken into consideration. Both the simulated and real images of the developed working pants were compared in terms of the ease amount according to parts of the working pants, the position of seam lines, the appearance of darts and pleats, and the effects of the fabric surface according to expertise panels' subjective 5-point scale evaluation. The results throughout the study were (1) the basic working pants item worn by subject workers were the straight one pleated pants. The most discomforting parts of the working pants were in the order of body rise, thigh, hip, waist, pants hems and knee girth. (2) the drafting factors of pants patterns differed by the men's body features, which was related to the allocation of suppression amounts between waist and hip girths into darts and hip curve amounts on the waist line level of the pants. (3) the similarity of the virtually simulated and real images of men's working pants resulted in an average of 4.5 to the ease of appearance, 4.6 to the seam lines, 4.1 to the fabric surface effects in a 5-point scale, which means that the two were highly alike.
Study on the Digital Storytelling Types and Characteristics of Fashion Designer Brands
Hong, Yun Jung ; Kim, Young In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 43~57
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.043
The purpose of this research is to systemize the fashion digital storytelling by analyzing the communication method and its elements, and extracting the characteristics and processes of digital storytelling. Based on the previous study on the characteristics and types of storytelling the following things have been researched: 1) the process of digital storytelling in the communication process, 2) the concept and the feature of the academia of digital storytelling 3) storytelling in the document research. On the groundwork of the document research, we were able to sort out the various types, and formed a system of the features in the fashion digital storytelling cases, mainly in the four collections (Milan, Paris, London, New York) from 2000's to recent years of 2010. The types of fashion digital storytelling are episode type, narrative type, and creative type. The characteristics of each of the types are as follows. Firstly, the episode type communicates through the digital media based on the information or fact of the fashion designer brand. Secondly, narrative type communicates with the consumers using previous literature or an existing idea of the original cultural form that is rearranged in digital story expressed by the digital media. Lastly, creative type makes the designer's and consumer's susceptibility and creativity communicate through the newly made story, which expresses the unique originality of the designer. It seems that the cases and studies of using the fashion digital storytelling will increase because of its short history and lack of the case study. Fashion designer brands will show their brand image using the digital storytelling because they are able to better express originality, creativity and imagination of the fashion designer, which were factors that could not be conveyed through fashion alone.
A Study of Formative Characteristics of Steampunk Fashion
Choi, Yoo-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 58~75
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.058
Steampunk is a term generally used for one of the S. F. subgenre in literature, arts, fashion styles, and lifestyles. This study clarifies formative characteristics as well as the meanings of steampunk fashion style based on its attributes in movies and animations. Attributes of the steampunk are blending time, blending technology, and introspection against science development. In order to have an objective research, this study researched frequency of the fashion item, color, accessory of the collected fashion image, and after interpreted that consequence. Men's steampunk fashion was composed of men's basic outfit such as shirts, vest, jacket, pants, and coats of the 19th century. Black color took up the largest proportion for color. In accessory, top hat, goggle, and steam-powered weapons, in order, were most commonly used. Women's steampunk fashion was composed of shirts and long one-piece dresses, long skirt simply applied 19th victorian style fashion. Yellow, brown, and black color took up the largest proportion of fashion color. In accessory, top hat, belt trimming, corset, and boots, in order, were most commonly used. It is the characteristics of the steampunk fashion that represents retro-future fashion, as it features steam-powered mechanic esthetics, a kind of DIY subculture and transcending division of nationality, class, and gender.
A Study of 'Asymmetry Triangle-Gusset' with Shirts [Jeoksam and Hansam] in the Early Days of Joseon Dynasty
Jin, Deok Soon ; Kim, Jin Kyung ; Song, Mi-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 76~89
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.076
This study is about 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' Jeoksam and Hansam in the early days of Joseon Dynasty. A study was done regarding the records of Jeoksam and Hansam in literature, the present state of the excavated 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam, and finally a deduction of the reason for the appearance of the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing Jeoksam and Hansam. The width of front length of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing in the early days of Joseon Dynasty is 29.5~35 cm and the width of one breath of the sleeve is 29.5~35 cm. The width of 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' is 9.5~16 cm and it is relatively big. Comparing to the width of one breath of the sleeve, it is almost 1:2.2~3.6 ratio. Therefore, when the sleeve was cut, the Mu was linked in order to save fabric the gusset of sleeve had to be folded and turned, and finally it became asymmetric. As a result of the above consideration, since the width of upper garments of
century was big, the wearing of short tops of Jeoksam or Hansam without side vent as a small 'triangle-Mu' was uncomfortable. Because of this reason, the size had no option but to become bigger. So, during the
century, a period where mass production of fabric was difficult, the 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' type was considered to be a reasonable cutting method. After the middle of
century, it can be estimated that 'asymmetry triangle-Mu' clothing disappeared according to the narrow aspect of clothing type.
Effects of In-store Experiences on Store Satisfaction, Sportswear Brand Preference and Purchase Intention - Focus on Moderating Role of Impulse Buying Tendency -
Han, Ye-Ji ; Hwang, Sun-Jin ; Chun, Ho-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 90~105
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.090
The purpose of this study was to explore how experiential factors in sportswear stores influenced store satisfaction, brand preference, and purchase intention among potential consumers, and to reveal the moderating effects of impulsive buying. The subjects of this study were 306 male and female adults in their 20s and 30s, who had visited sports brand stores within the past year. To analyze the data, Cronbach's
, structural model analysis and path analysis were performed. The results of this study were as follows. First, there is a strong relationship between store satisfaction and experiential factors in sportswear apparel stores. All experiential factors significantly influenced store satisfaction in a positive direction. Second, consumers' store satisfaction positively influenced on brand preference. Third, consumers' store satisfaction had positive influences on their purchasing intention. Fourth, consumers' impulsive buying tendency showed significant moderating effect on the experiential factors. Consumers with low level of impulsive buying tended to be influenced more by 'think', 'relate', and 'sense' experiential factors on their store satisfaction. However, consumers with a high level of impulsive buying tendency revealed that they were more likely to be influenced by 'act' and 'feel' experiential factors.
Types of Overlapping Technique in Contemporary Fashion
Lim, Ji-Ah ; Kim, Min-Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 106~124
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.106
Compared to traditional fashion design, modern fashion design is used as a means that creates original and multiple types of beauty beyond fixed and standardized concept and form. Overlapping technique is the most suitable means to shed classical, authoritative and conservative form and it enables diverse borrowing and quotation for creation. This study aimed to analyze overlapping techniques that are expressed in art, architecture and fashion to find out its characteristics in the field of fashion. The result of this study is as follows. Based on theories of visual perception and advance research, types of overlapping technique were classified as pile, repetition, penetration and transparency. When comparing overlapping techniques in modern fashion with those of painting and architecture, fashion was distinctive in that it had movement and communicativeness through overlapping of fashion and the human body. Therefore, the overlapping technique has wide application and adaptation and can cause specialty, movability, communicativeness and collectivity, which can arouse psychological inspiration.
Morphology of Seok in the Great Han Empire Period and the Origin of the Korean Seok's Morphological Characteristics
Choi, Yeon-Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 125~142
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.125
Soek(Xi) was the highest ranked shoe that was worn with the primary formal dress in East Asian countries including ancient Korea and China. This article examined Joseon's Seok as discussed in previous studies, and it explored factors such as the wearers' status, wearing situations, its morphology, its materials, and its colors in the Great Han Empire period (1897~1910), and then extracted three morphological characteristics of the Korean Seok to examine its origin. The results of the study are as follows. For women, the Seok in the Great Han Empire period was worn with Won-sam(圓衫) and No-eui(露衣) as well as Jeok-eui(翟衣), and hence its range of wearing was extensive. Also, red Seok was worn with deep red colored Dae-sam(大衫)-styled Jeok-eui in the Joseon period(1392~1897), and blue Seok with deep blue Jeok-eui in the Great Han Empire period. This suggests the possibility that wearing of deep blue Jeok-eui occurred after 1906 in terms of the use of blue Seok. As for its morphology, its leg-less form was maintained into the late Joseon period, and there were no great changes in its name. The characteristics of the Korean Seok's morphological structure consisted of a shoe leg, the wood-less bottom and pearl ornament. As a result of the examination of the origin of those characteristics, it has been clarified that the form in which Gu, Eok, Jun(純), are attached in the structure with a shoe leg originated from the combination of Hwa(靴) and Li(履) after the two types of shoes were alternately worn in the Song (宋) period. Also, it was confirmed that the woodless bottom appeared between the periods from Wei Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝) to Sui(隋), and the pearl ornament occurred in the Jin(金) period.
Development of a Down-alternative Outdoor Jacket design
Lee, Dal A ; Moon, SunJeong ; Chung, Sham Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 143~155
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.143
The outdoor apparel market has been growing very fast recently, and consumers are spending more time doing outdoor activities for their leisure. As the outdoor apparel market is growing, it has started to combine functionality with style to provide more diverse designs and colors for all ages. The increase of interest in heathy life-styles, outdoor activities, and leisure has lead to a rise in demand for outdoor apparel. Now outdoor apparel have become a part of people's daily casual wear in addition to being worn for outdoor activities. This study is focused on a outdoor jacket design which is used as down-alternative material and the purpose of this study is to design outdoor jackets using a down-alternative fabrics that improve the thermal and lightweight effects for clothing comfort, and increase the satisfaction of wearing down-alterative outdoor jacket. The research of this paper was done by using a questionnaire survey. The survey was used to examine the male customers' outdoor activities, purchase behaviors, place, expense and design preferences. Then, down-like fabric was used to make the prototype down jacket and its design, function, and satisfaction with wearing compared with other brands down jacket products were analyzed. Although duck down fabrics are representative of outdoor jackets, they have many problems that need to be solved such as feathers falling out or its vulnerability to moisture. They have competitive prices compared to down jackets so down-alternative jackets are able to gain more proportion of its market share.
eWOM Information Search Behavior of Cycle Wear
Choi, Jin Woo ; Lee, Yuri ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 156~170
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.156
The purpose of this research is to scrutinize the cyclist's consumer behavior by analyzing the eWOM information search behavior of cycle-wear according to benefits sought and involvement. The research was conducted through an online survey and the respondents were 291 men who wore cycle-wear and searched information via online. The results of this research are as following. First, the benefits sought from wearing cycle apparel are composed of five sub-factors such as, ideal body figure, brand ostentation, comfort ease, personality, and economic feasibility. In addition, the cycle-wear involvement consisted of two sub-factors: cycling involvement and fashion involvement. Second, the eWOM information search behavior of cyclists was different depending on the benefits sought by the cyclists. When the cyclists pursued ideal body figure they searched more information of design and color, while cyclists put more weight on the information of design, color, and brand when they sought brand ostentation. Moreover, the valence and the type of the information were dissimilar depending on the benefits sought. Third, the sub-factors of eWOM information search behavior affected the eWOM effect distinctively. The price information was the only factor that influenced the eWOM effect among the contents of the information. The valence of the information influenced the eWOM effect, and the effect of positive information was stronger than negative information. Additionally, the subjective information also affected the eWOM effect. Lastly, the effect of the benefits sought influencing the eWOM information search behavior varied by the difference of the cycle-wear involvement. For example, when they are both high in the involvement there were various benefits sought affecting the eWOM information search behavior. However, when only the cycling involvement was high, and they pursued personality, the price information was not important to them.
A Study on Military Costumes of Hunryeondogam in the Mid and the Late Joseon
Yum, Jung Ha ; Cho, Woo Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 171~187
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.171
This is a study on the military costumes of Hunryeondogam, which was the center of Five Military Camps in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty. I confirmed the characteristics and system of military costumes of Hunryeondogam by document research and positive research. The military organization of Hunryeondogam was comprised of the high-ranking military officers such as Hunryeondaejang, Junggun, Cheonchong, Byeoljang and Gukbyeoljang, the mid and low ranking military officers such as Pachong, Chogwa and soldiers. And the military costume of Hunryeondogam included Gapju, Yoongbok and Goonbok for military officers and all kinds of military uniforms for soldiers. Imjin war and ritualized military ceremonies in the era of peace had influence on the military costume. Officers, for example, were wearing Dangap and soldiers were wearing Cheolgap or Pigap that depended on the branch of the army. Politically, kings in the mid and the late Joseon had organized military organizations to strengthen their royal authority. I think that the policy can be effectively seen by observing the military costume system. The qualitative differences in cloth materials and the presence or absence of patterns of Goonbok, the qualitative differences in the decoration of Jeonrip and the presence or absence of Yodae were able to distinguish the identity and the rank. An assumption can be made that these things could have been affected by social causes, such as frequent trips of the King and stable society. This cause could be influence on substitute Yoongbok with Goonbok that from the low ranking military officers to the high ranking military officers of Hunryeondogam. The societal changes in the mid and the late Joseon dynasty are reflected on the military costumes system of Hunryeondogam.
A Study on the Formative Factors and Characteristics of Spanish Fashion(I)
Lee, Keum Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 63, issue 8, 2013, Pages 188~208
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2013.63.8.188
This study aims to find out factors of historical specialty and cultural ethnicity that influenced the formation of Spanish fashion as well as examine the characteristics of Spanish fashion by comparing its historical costumes, such as folk costume and court costume with contemporary fashion of major Spanish designers in the 20th century. Documental investigation and analysis of visual materials were used as research method. The study results are as follows: The major factors that affected the characteristics of Spanish fashion in the history include the geographical features, invasion of foreign nations, cultural heritage of various ethnic groups, strengthening of the national power, advancement of international trading through the newly developed routes, and influence of religions such as Christianity, Islam, and Judaism. Featuring the coexistence of variety and heterogeneity, the ethnicity reflected in the culture harmoniously embraces various spirits such as conflict and coexistence, individualism and collectivism or regionalism, and exclusion and tolerance of religions. In addition, the characteristics in the cultural phenomena include passion, sensuousness, individualism, sense of reality, sense of chic, and the people-centeredness. The basic Characteristics of Spanish fashion include the sensuality of excessive zeal, decorativeness of gorgeous handicrafts, exoticism of people-centered variety, extreme contrast of harmony, touching artistry of chic, and fantastic surrealistic wits.