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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 64, Issue 8 - Dec 2014
Volume 64, Issue 7 - Nov 2014
Volume 64, Issue 6 - Sep 2014
Volume 64, Issue 5 - Aug 2014
Volume 64, Issue 4 - Jun 2014
Volume 64, Issue 3 - Apr 2014
Volume 64, Issue 2 - Feb 2014
Volume 64, Issue 1 - Jan 2014
Selecting the target year
Formative Elements of the Facial Image of Korean Women and the Effects of Makeup Design
Baek, Kyoung-Jin ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 1~20
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.001
The purpose of this study is to suppose makeup design based on formative elements of facial image according to the facial image type of Korean women in their 20s. For this study, literature review were performed. Surveys were conducted twice for empirical research. The survey targeted 220 university students in their 20s. SPSS 12.0 statistics program was used to analyze the results, and T-test, ANOVA, Scheff
test. The results of the study are as follows. First, it was concluded that the effective structural formative elements are different according to the types of facial image. Second, by analyzing the differences in perceiving naked facial image and modified face shape image, modified skin color image, modified makeup color image of all types of facial image, it was found that the formative elements are different according to facial images, and that there are differences in the effectiveness of each factors.
Stereotyping of Social Network Service with Contents of Fashion and Fashion Design Process Using a Method to Form Network
Im, Min-Jung ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 21~36
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.021
The purpose of this study is to suggest an effective fashion design process using social network services(SNS) as a method to develop designs. Fashion design process was systemized through literature study. The characteristics of social network, and element and method of network formation were investigated, and then design processes using SNS were suggested through survey study. This was done by applying formation of network and its method in SNS with contents of fashion to stage of process to develop fashion design. The study results are as follows. First, Fashion design process using SNS is composed of 5 stages. Second, SNS types with contents of fashion were classified to five types: blog, community, connection of fashion web service and SNS, fashion SNS, and fashion SNS game. Among them, types where development of fashion design and product distribution was done by formation of network are connected type of fashion web service and SNS, fashion SNS type. Fashion design development can be done by compiling, having contests, and cooperative work. A method that can be used for making assessments and decision is voting and predicting the market. Third, Fashion design process using SNS is composed of the stages such as planning, compiling, analysis, decision, implementation, and formation of network. It was analyzed that by connecting stages of collection and evaluation of information through participation of users, new contents were produced and there was a structure that was cycled continuously.
Characteristics of "Glam" Fashion in David Bowie's Costume
Yang, Soohyun ; Lee, Younhee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 37~51
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.037
The purpose of this study is to devise a wide range of expression and direction in fashion by analyzing the wardrobe of David Bowie, a musician who represents Glam Rock, for "glam" characteristics. Research was done using dictionaries of musical terms, dictionaries of attire terms, internet, papers and books published in Korea and abroad and other materials. The results of this study showed four characteristics, and it can be summarized as follows. First, resistance refers to the deviation from the norms set by a mainstream society. The resistance in Glam Rock was expressed in depreciative and anti-social characteristics, and Punk elements were expressed by using studs and metallic materials. Second, androgyny in David Bowie's costume expresses the innate nature of gender by freely integrating or tight silhouette costumes. Third, the fantasy in Bowie's costumes is a concept as opposed to what is real and is expressed by using avant-garde and playful expressions. Distorted, exaggerated and avant- garde expressions express decorative and bizarre fantasy by using the images of an astronaut. Fourth, the folklore in David Bowie's costumes uses the patterns and images of different cultures, and is expressed as through integration of exotic components, including the usage of costumes with Oriental colors and shapes. Furthermore it represents geometric shapes and curves, using the images of Kimono.
An Observation on Mid to Late Twentieth Century Korean Fashion - Focus on First Generation Korean Fashion Designer, Nora Noh -
Park, Shinmi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 52~75
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.052
The purpose of this research is to classify the historical features of mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion with a focus on 'Nora Noh', who is a first generation Korean fashion designer. The specific questions of this research are as follows: how did mid-to-late twentieth century Korean fashion and the Nora Noh brand develop and what is the relationship between the two? What are the important features of Korean women's fashion design in the mid-to-late twentieth century? What are the characteristics exhibited in each decade in Korean women's fashion and Nora Noh's fashion? This paper conducted the research by focusing on the Korean fashion development as a background of simplification in the way of dressing and specific historical incident. Researchers deployed a qualitative research method providing a systematic review of the previous studies by analyzing content as well as eleven oral statement interviews and the case study of Nora Noh. The result shows that Nora Noh is one of the first generation of Korean fashion designers who led fashion trend and system in Korea. The designer also influenced Korean commercial fashion in the 1970s and American fashion trends in the 1980s.
Socks Design Development Based on Design Preferences Research
Pan, Rui Nan ; Kim, Ji Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 76~90
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.076
The purpose of this study is to develop high-valued added socks by utilizing consumer design preference research in design. The study was performed by investigating literatures including previous studies, and researching the recognition and design preference of consumers. As a final step, socks designs were developed to reflect the results of the research. Gender differences have been found in the choice of socks. Women put more importance to the design, color and trend and prefer geometric, animals and plants patterns, and unique images compared to men. In terms of fashion interest level, 'high' group preferred design, color, and trend than 'middle' and 'low' group, and also preferred geometric, abstract patterns. Women's and unisex socks were designed for people in their 20s, the age group with the highest level of interest in fashion, after taking results of the consumer design preference research into account. Main themes for the lady's socks are 'Soft Shape' and 'Line Composition' in order to express delicate, soft sensibility. For the unisex socks, 'Daydreamer' and 'Free Zone' are the themes used to express young energy and the sense of freedom. 12 styles were developed by creating 3 styles per theme using Photoshop CS5 and Illustrator CS5 programs. As a result, it is confirmed that design strategies in segmented market are necessary for the high-valued added products. Also, the understanding of changes in consumer's tastes and needs through regular market research is needed for the competitive socks design planning.
Luxury Brand Consumption Values and Signal Preference Based on Cultural and Economic capital
Lee, Minhee ; Lee, Yuri ; Ahn, Minyoung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 91~105
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.091
As luxury goods market has expanded and has become more affordable, luxury consumption value has become more diversified. The purpose of this study is to classify visible characteristics of luxury consumption by the degree of logo clarity, and to explain this classification in relation to personal luxury consumption values. Also, the study utilized the concept of cultural capital, in addition to the concept of economic capital, in order to aid understanding of current new luxury consumption trend and give directions on brand signal strategies for luxury brands. In order to develop a survey that could measure an individual's cultural capital, focus group interviews, each composed of 5 women in their twenties and thirties, were conducted. Then, the survey was conducted on 230 females residing in Seoul who have purchased at least one product from a luxury brand within a year. The results suggest that luxury consumption can be explained by 'self-oriented value' and 'others-oriented value' as suggested in precedent studies. However, no significant difference was found between economic capital and these two luxury consumption values. However, the more cultural capital one possesses, the more one is likely to pursue 'self-oriented consumption value'. In studying the correlation between luxury consumption values and preference for brand signal clarity, respondents with 'self-oriented consumption value' has shown low preference towards highly visible brand logo when design and quality were equivalent. Also, respondents with 'other-oriented consumption value' has shown high preference towards highly visible brand logo.
A Study on Classification of Breast Shapes for Women in Their 30s
Kim, Hyo Sook ; Kim, Ji Min ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 106~117
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.106
The purpose of this study is to provide basic information for the development of well-fitting and comfortable brassieres for women in their 30s, based on the classification of breast shapes by utilizing 3D body measurement data of women in the age group. The result of processing the measurements from the 3D body scan data through RapidForm 2006 shows that while the vertical body measurements decrease, the horizontal measurements, which indicates the degree of obesity, increase proportionally with age. Also, the relevant measurements for upper breasts increase proportionally with age, while the measurements for lower part of the breasts decrease as the degree of sagging increases. Four composition factors of the breasts were identified through the factor analysis: Factor 1 is the level of volume in the breasts and the surrounding area; Factor 2 is the position of nipples and the shape of upper part of breasts; Factor 3 is the position and vertical length of the breasts; Factor 4 is the shape of lower part of breasts; and Factor 5 is the shape of inner part of breasts and degree of width between both breasts. The breasts have been categorized into three distinctive shapes: Breast Shape 1, Breast Shape 2 and Breast Shape 3. According to the results of the cluster analysis, the largest percentage (36.68%) of women in their 30s falls into the category of Breast Shape 2 with small volume and flat upper breasts, followed by Breast Shape 1 (32.66%) with large volume in the upper and lower parts of breasts, and large side to side area, and Breast Shape 3 (30.65%) with average volume and width between breasts.
Analysis of EEG by Tactile Sensation of Fabric
Lee, So-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 118~130
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.118
The purpose of this study is to measure the touching stimulus level of EEG for fabrics to create a reference data for product planning of clothes with touching characteristics of high satisfaction. The subjects were composed of 6 female college students and their EEG level was measured while they touched 6 kinds of Korean traditional silk fabric. The results are as follows: 1. Shantung and Myoungju showed the highest and the lowest values of alpha for the touching stimulus respectively. The fabric of Shantung showed high values of alpha, beta, theta, delta, gamma, high-beta and SMR for the touching stimulus. 2. The values of beta were the highest with Shantung and the lowest with Nobangju for the touching stimulus. 3. The highest values of theta and delta for the touching stimulus was assigned to Shantung and the lowest belonged to Gabsa. 4. The highest values of gamma for the touching stimulus was assigned to Shantung and the lowest belonged to Gongdan. 5. The highest value of SMR for the touching stimulus was assigned to Santung, and the lowest belonged to Gongdan and Nobangju. 6. The highest values of high-beta for the touching stimulus was assigned to Shantung and the lowest belonged to Gabsa and Gongdan.
Study on the Fashion Design by Utilizing the China's Tibetan Dress Culture
Chen, Qiu-Qi ; Suh, Seung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 131~149
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.131
Tibetans are one of the ethnic Chinese minorities, and this research examined the characteristics and features of their traditional costumes by investigating their historical, geographical and cultural background. This research also examined the cultural elements according to their characteristics based on Tibet's nature, religion, arts culture such as the Jang-po, Chin-sam, Kam-kjun and belts, which are used to fix the costumes. Based on such studies the traditional Tibetan costumes were set as a motif and were expressed appropriately into a contemporary style. By studying the composition of its costumes and its costume culture, the characteristics of the Tibetan costumes could be classified into four features. First, the 'variability of form' expresses a new type depending on how it is worn. Second, the 'color contrast' shows a strong visual contrast. Third, the 'difference of materials' combines different materials into one. Fourth, the 'symbolic meaning' grants meaning to the wearer. As a result of this study, by using the characteristics of the Tibetan nature culture, religion culture and art culture as a basis, two suits of clothes for each characteristics and six suits of clothes were produced as a fashion design product.
A Study on the Effects of Wearing of a Black Dress and Accessories on Image Perception
Kim, Sungmin ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 150~161
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.150
The purpose of this study was to examine the differences in image perception, and to investigate the differences in age and income inferences according to the wearing of accessories with black dress. A quasi-experimental method was used for this study. The experimental design was a
corsage) factorial design. The subjects were 610 female college students residing in Seoul. The model in the stimulus photographs was a woman with straight long hair. She wore a black one-piece dress with round neckline and short sleeves. The findings indicated that the wearing of a necklace enhanced individuality, attractiveness, and cuteness in women. Professionalism and individuality were heightened when she wore an earring. The red corsage enhanced individuality, but it had a negative effect in professionalism. As for the effect on interaction, attractiveness was more highly perceived when both necklace and large earrings were worn without a corsage. The absence of both necklace and earrings led to a low perception of professionalism, attractiveness, and individuality. The wearing of a necklace was more strongly linked to older age and high income than not wearing it, and it was perceived as more youthful if earrings were not worn. As for interactions, the wearing of small earrings and a red corsage was linked to the oldest age.
Study on the Evolution of the Traditional-Style Soryebok in Korean Modern Dress
Lee, Kyung-Mee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 162~175
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.162
This study focuses on Korea's traditional-style soryebok, in terms of its foundation, progression, and structural features. The research methods employed here include literature analyses of relevant laws and an official daily gazette, and practical analyses of artifacts and photographic documents. Especially, the artifacts of heukdannyeong(black uniform for officials with a round neck) in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) were examined, which was regulated as soryebok in Eulmiuijegaehyeok. The term "soryebok" firstly appeared in "使和記略"(Sahwagiryak) written by Park Yeong-hyo, a foreign envoy to Japan, in 1882. Emperor's invitation written in the book asked him to wear daeryebok at the ritual and soryebok to the banquet. Soryebok was not adopted in Gapshinuijegaehyeok in 1884. However, several illustrated documents of the modern banquets at that time reveal that sabok, which was included in the 1884 reform, was used as soryebok. According to the Gapouijegaehyeok in December 1894, courtiers were required to wear heukdannyeong as daeryebok, and add juui(topcoat) and dapho(sleeveless coat) as tongsangyebok when they visited the royal palace. In Joseon's first daeryebok system, the term "tongsangyebok" that had been used in Japan was employed before soryebok was used. According to Eulmiuijegaehyeok in August 1895, the term "soryebok" originated from a costume ritual for courtiers of the Joseon Dynasty. Soryebok featured heokbannyeong chaksupo, samo (winged hat for officials), sokdae(belt), and hwaja (shoes for officials). There are around 24 artifact pieces of heukdannyeong in the form of chaksu(tight sleeves) in the following locations: garments of Prince Heungwangun and Wansungun, the court artifacts, Korea University Museum, Yun Ung-ryeol's family housed at Yonsei University, and Kyungwoon Museum. Artifacts have mu(godet) pulled back and a topcoat-like triangular mu. In conclusion, heukdannyeong, traditional-style soryebok has significance in the history of modern dress because streamlined traditional clothes and newly introduced Western dress system were able to be combined.
Accessing motivations of DIY(Do-It-Yourself) clothes through online community
Kim, Ji-Yeon ; Lee, Kyu-Hye ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 4, 2014, Pages 176~187
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.4.176
Although DIY(Do-It-Yourself) clothes are not popular in Korea, they continually reflect emerging DIY trends. Previous studies have approached the technical aspect of DIY clothes or have considered them only as an aspect of consumption tendencies. The purpose of this study is to look into online communities to investigate distinctive elements, which form the DIY clothing culture. Participant observation of texts and pictures from the online community's postings about DIY was conducted and used for the analysis. Research results showed that personal and social factors motivated DIY clothes. Personal motivations are comprised of factors such as practical creativity and personal enjoyment. Practical creativity occurred when someone wished to express aesthetics and personality in DIY clothes; personal enjoyment refers to the pleasure and utility that one feels when one makes DIY clothes. The social motivations were comprised of factors such as a desire to show off and to expand social exchanges. The desire to show off involved wearing DIY clothes and then finding satisfaction from reactions of people who notice it. The "expansion of exchanges" was not only about sharing information about DIY clothes in an online community but also about distributing or giving real goods (materials or tools for DIY clothes and finished goods) as gifts. Furthermore, some "DIYers" made DIY clothes sustainable by pursuing economic feasibility as an additional motivational factor. When they had expertise and commercial traits, they established businesses in the form of independent creative firms, transforming themselves from productive consumers to producers.