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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 64, Issue 8 - Dec 2014
Volume 64, Issue 7 - Nov 2014
Volume 64, Issue 6 - Sep 2014
Volume 64, Issue 5 - Aug 2014
Volume 64, Issue 4 - Jun 2014
Volume 64, Issue 3 - Apr 2014
Volume 64, Issue 2 - Feb 2014
Volume 64, Issue 1 - Jan 2014
Selecting the target year
Communication Characteristics of Fashion Shows Using Digital Images
Hong, Hye Rim ; Kim, Young In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 1~15
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.001
In the fashion industry, the thing that shows the latest trends and makes issues is the fashion show. The function of fashion shows is changing from a promotional mean to a method of communication with customers. Recently, some fashion shows have used digital images and omitted traditional parts of a fashion show such as models, stages, garments, music and audiences. In this study, 30 fashion shows that used digital images were selected from the 2000-2010 collections of Paris, Milan, London and New York, and its communication characteristics were analyzed and discussed. The three categories of the communication characteristics are as follows: First, the shows used digital images as stage sceneries or effects to create desired stage effects. The digital images were used as extra tools to reinforce the concept of the fashion show. Second, the fashion shows used real-time videos to extend its presentation into the virtual space. The interactive videos were designed to encourage audiences to actively participate in the show. Third, the digital images were the focus of the show for the internet-only digital fashion shows. Since the Internet is not constrained by time or space, multi-faceted, communication between audiences and fashion designers or among audiences is possible. In addition, the number of audience it can reach is higher than traditional fashion shows. Digital images will be used more often in the fashion shows. In the future, fashion shows will try to become more interactive with audiences through the use of new digital image technology.
A Study on the Current Condition of Fashion Education in Korea and China
Im, Soon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 16~32
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.016
This study aims to compare the current conditions of fashion education organizations in Korea and China. The results are as follows: 1. As for the departments related to fashion in Korea, the department of clothing was most frequently found in the fields of everyday science and natural science and design was most frequent in art related fields. 2. As for the departments related to fashion in China, the department of design was usually found in the fields of spinning and weaving, art, fashion, and others, and a college was dedicated to is having departments related to the fashion industry, much larger in scale compare to Korea. 3. Subject analysis found that both Korea and China put the most weight on the subject of design than any other fields. 4. Subject analysis of the fashion related departments in Korea found that all three department groups put considerable weight on clothing design and clothing composition subjects with other subjects having greater parts in the curriculum. 5. As for the departments related to fashion in China, design-related subjects were most frequently found, irrespective of the title of the fashion department, and the subjects concerning fashion marketing were widely distributed. 6. It seems that the curriculum for fashion colleges in China have been affected by the characteristics of the university before absorptive integration and setting based on the local characteristics rather than by the characteristics of the college. 7. For the curriculum of Korea, it is necessary to divide theoretical and practical ones and to develop practical subjects in association with experts in actual fields. China needs to take into account the local characteristics due to its global curriculum and large area.
A Survey of the Current Production and Sizing System of Korean Children's Wear Brands
Kim, Min-Jung ; Uh, Mi-Kyung ; Park, Sun-Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 33~46
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.033
The purpose of this study is to present basic data for the standardization of the sizing system for children's wear by investigating the current production and sizing system of Korean children's wear brands. The result of conducting a survey of 20 brands show the following: first, regarding the age bracket of Korean children's wear, it ranged from 3~15 years old. Most of the brands divided up the sizes into 4 or 5 different groups. Second, the utilization of a bodice basic pattern was low during the manufacturing of a pattern, and the basic pattern had been used for the item. Third, the designation of garment sizes were done using height or height-chest measurement or height-waist measurement. Fourth, the brands used the smallest size as the basic size in most cases. Most of the brands had similar deviations for any grading deviations. In conclusion, it appears necessary to restructure the unity of size designation and the sizing system in order to establish the sizing system of children's wear, which features diverse age brackets and various body types.
A Comparative Study on Characteristics and Aesthetic Value of Asian Traditional Costumes - Emphasis on Buddhist, Hindu and Islamic Costumes -
Seo, Bong-Ha ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 47~64
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.047
A variety of traditional costumes have been developed in Asia due to different natural and cultural environments and they are still worn by people in many areas. Traditional costumes in Asia have been formed under the influence of various ideologies, as well as technology and social structure. Three Asian religions(Buddhism, Hinduism and Islam), which have undeniably strong influence on traditional Asian cultures, have great effects on the styles of traditional costume in each region of Asia. The purpose of this study is to compare the characteristics and aesthetic values of traditional Asian costumes. To do this, the author used images of traditional costumes, which were taken in person by the author, in each region of Asia as reference. Unlike the traditional costumes in the West, which expose the body shape, traditional Asian costumes have nonstructural features in construction, form and wearing rules. They are also decorated with religious symbols and other ornaments, which is different from functional and non-decorative modern clothes. Each traditional Asian costume has unique characteristics. The costume under the influence of Buddhism shows the beauty of concealment that features trans-spatiality and abundant silhouette. On the other hand, the Hindu costume shows the beauty of symbolization represented by very colorful and complex ornaments, while costume in the Islam regions shows the beauty of restraint with clothes that wrap up the body in accordance with its strict religious discipline. Asian religions also represent philosophy, culture as well as an ethnic group. They have influenced entire Asian cultures including the arts, aesthetics and social structure and decided the style of costumes.
Reproduction of Kwanmo worn during the Hoeryeyeon(會禮宴) Performances in the reign of King Sejong - Focusing on Jinhyunkwan, Pybyun, Buyongkwan -
Cho, Woo-Hyun ; Cho, Hyun-Jin ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 65~77
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.065
This paper is on the reproduction of kwanmo, which is worn by the dancers in Taepyeongjiak at the National Classical Music Institute, focusing on Jinhyunkwan, Pybyun, Buyongkwan. Taepyeongjiak is a performance of the court banquet called Hoeryeyeon held during the 15th year of Sejong'reign(1433). The Hoeryeyeon performances were held on January 1st and December 22nd, to strengthen the good relationship between the King and his officials. The reproduction of kwanmo worn by the dancers was reproduced for the modern performances on the basis of the literature and relic research. The results of the study are as follows. Jinhyunkwan is the kwanmo that is associated with the literature and it comes from an old Chipokwan, is confirm that liang(梁) of Chipokwan's characteristic vanished. Pybyun is kwanmo which is associated with the military, comes from Jeolpung. The incision line was formed to make the corn shape, and this became the liang(梁). Buyongkwan is corolla adorned with lotus, and is highlighted with colored string of beads. Unlike other corollas, its gilt lotus was adorned with purple-yellow braids.
Principles of Coloration for Hoecha and Sucha Applied to Seok
Choi, Yeon-Woo ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 78~90
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.078
This paper examines the way that the principles of coloration for Hoecha(繪次) and Sucha(繡次) were applied for shoe making in ancient China and Korea. Hoecha is the principle of drawing, and Sucha is the principle of embroidery. Hoecha and Sucha is the application principle of the five colors(五方色) from the five elements(五行: metal, wood, water, fire, and earth). Hoecha matchs a color with the opposite side color, and Sucha matchs a color with the beside color. A shoe consists of Sinul(body of shoe) and ornaments attached to it. According to the ratings of shoes, Hoecha and Sucha were differently applied for coloration of Sinul and its ornaments. In general, shoes were classified into Seok and Gu. For Seok, which was the high-ranked shoes, Hoecha was applied, while Sucha was applied to Gu, the low ranked shoe. As Hoecha was originally a principle of coloration for patterns on tops(jacket. 上衣), it was applied to the high ranked shoes i.e., Seok. Also, as Sucha was a principle of coloration for patterns on bottoms(skirt. 下裳), it was applied to the low ranked shoes i.e., Gu. Thus, black was decorated on red Seok, blue on white Seok, red on black Seok, yellow on hyeon(玄: a kind of black color) Seok, and white on blue Seok, all of which were applications of the principle of Hoecha. As the application of the principle of Hoecha to Seok was also done for red Seok for males and females in late Joseon, and red Seok for the crown prince in the period of the Korean Empire, black decorations were used for red Sinul. However, for blue Seok, worn by females in the period of the Korean Empire where Ming's systems prevailed, black decorations were used, which was an application of Sucha. Though there had been no discrimination between genders in the application of Hoecha and Sucha originally, the low ranked principle of coloration was applied to Seok for females.
Study on Garment Design Application of Tube-Shaped String
An, Hyosun ; Lee, Inseong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 91~101
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.091
String, as clothing material, has played a functional, symbolic and decorative role in garment traditionally. The string has a shape of continuous line, which is one of the basic elements for the design: points, lines and sides. It can effectively represent the silhouette by making our vision flow to a certain direction. This study reinterprets the traditional form of string in a new modern way by developing "Tube-Shaped String" which has an empty hole in the middle. As a creative attempt, the new tube-shaped string can be used for fashion design by applying it to unique shapes, colors, textures, and draping expressions. In a role dimension, this string can become the main fabric material. The methods of the study are as follows. First, it examines the traditional shape and role of string in the history of garment. Second, it studies modern designers, such as Christian Dior, Ann Demeulemeester, Dolce & Gabbana, and 3.1 Phillip Lim, who have applied the string to their design, and have explored the various potentials of the string in the past four years. Finally, based on the theoretical research and practical analysis, this study creates a new tube-shaped string, applying its own technique to fabricating three garments: jacket, dress, and body suit. As a result, each garment shows unique silhouettes, rich texture and color, and rhythmical movement. The unique silhouettes reflect the shape and movement of different bodies. The texture and color are created through the shades of the string which come from the overlapping strips. The garments come with an unbeatable aesthetic design compared to conventional uniform design. As a new material in clothing, this tube-shaped string can be developed to satisfy the public, which has widely varying tastes in fashion.
Kitsch Features Expressed in Contemporary Fashion Accessories
Kim, Sooyoung ; Yoon, Jeong-A ; Lee, Younhee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 102~119
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.102
The purpose of this study is to develop various designs through renewing and changing perception of accessories by examining various and arbitrary Kitsch. For the method of this study, literature review was mainly used for research of formative characteristics in Kitsch fashion. 798 pieces of work from fashion magazines and website with a focus on Milan, Paris, London and New York collections, in the decade of 2000-2010 were collected. The results of this study are as follows. First, the characteristic of exaggeration is classified into two types: the visual exaggeration, which is characterized by psychological expression through excessive images and (2) the collecting exaggeration, which is not simple but a want of large quantities. Second, the characteristic of satire is classified into two types: (1) the imitation-satire, which satirizes messages to societies with creative humor by using easily consumed materials and (2) the resistance-satire, which is destructive and offensive against isolation and desolation of a capitalistic society. Third, the characteristic of amusement is classified into two types: (1) the playful-amusement, which raises a laugh slyly by using clever materials and (2) the childish-amusement, which involves childish imagination and humor-sense because of desire to be a child. Fourth, the characteristic of nostalgia is classified into two types: (1) the romantic character expressing a departure from modern society, which is desolate because of the urbanization process, and (2) the intermediate character recreating an esthetic category by interacting with different and relative elements. Fifth, the characteristic of inappropriateness is expressed through a deliberate mistake, and it denies existing senses of beauty by overturning common sense and creating new senses of beauty, expressions in distortion and modification of stereotype.
A Study on Instructional Methods for Illustration Using Digital Media
Yun, Un-Jae ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 120~130
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.120
The present study aimed to find out the most effective instructional method for illustration to aid the
-century post digital generation learners in their education. Although the literature discusses government-led enactment and revision of educational policy and curriculums and research reports by the Ministry of Education and other government agencies as well as many other research articles deal with futuristic instructional methods, the instructional methods in practice have not fully changed yet. Illustration is a means of visual communication and a subject that best represent 'expressionism' and 'speed' of the post digital generation. The present study exemplifies instructional methods to establish the need for lesson plans that best suit individuality of students and for re-training instructors. Also, the feedback process with students proved that the post digital generation learned Photoshop quickly and improved creativity via image synthesis even in short-term instructions. The present findings can be possibly used as reference data for instructional methods for illustration using digital media that best suits learners of the post digital generation. This being said, further studies should delve into specific instructional methods.
Cultural Features in Modern Digital Fashion Shows Focusing on Hybrid Digital Culture
Cho, Wooin ; Suh, Seunghee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 131~147
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.131
Purpose of this study is to analyze the meaning of the hybrid digital culture and to find out the features of digital fashion shows appearing in the period of the hybrid digital culture as there have been almost no studies on the hybrid cultural values in the fashion shows and on the diachronic socio-cultural viewpoint of fashion show. The characteristics of hybrid digital culture were identified through the analysis of cases, and they were organized into three for this study; 'non-economic creativity', 'interactive communication' and 'transcendence'. Based on these characteristics, the features of hybrid digital cultures in the modern digital fashion shows were classified into the digitalization of presentation form and the acceptance by audience of digitalization using case studies. The features of digital fashion shows which appear through the presentation form in the digital fashion shows are as follows; 'Expansion of presentation media of runway' and 'Destruction of component factors of runway'. The features of digital fashion show in the perspective of audience's acceptance of digitalization are as follows; 'Audience's field experience through the live video', 'Participation by audience in interactive manner' and, 'Immersion in the virtual reality by the audiences'.
Development of Performance Uniform for Korean Classical Music Band
Kim, Yeo Kyung ; Kim, Jeong Min ; Hong, Na Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 148~160
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.148
This study proposed the design development of performance uniform for Korean classical music. To do this, we considered the state of the performance uniform of the Korean Classical Music Band through photographic data. The research targeted the performers in Korean Classical Music Band, and conducted a survey for the preference of type, pattern, decoration, color and fabric materials. Based on the results, we extracted the design of performance uniform, which is suitable for the environment of Korean classical music performance and meets the substantial requirements of performers. The performance uniform that the current national or public Korean classical music bands are using, has two types: Western clothing and Hanbok. The attire is influenced by the genre of the music that they are playing because one of its main functions is to deliver the music to audience effectively. In addition, there are some differences in the uniform based on the gender, but no division in the design of clothing according to music instruments. However, the result of the survey show that there was no difference in preference by gender, but there was some difference according to the division of music instruments. On this study, we reflected this result in the design, and proposed the design of an convenient outer garment for everyone to wear in the music performance band.
A Comparative Study of One-piece Dress Design based on Regional Characteristics of Street Fashion In China - Focused on Beijing, Shenzen in 2012 S/S -
Yoo, Jungmin ; Lee, Inseong ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 161~175
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.161
This paper investigates the differences between characteristics of street fashions due to regional and cultural differences in southern and northern region of China. Beijing and Shenzhen were chosen as representative cities for the two areas. Empirical research and literature study were performed for this study. Empirical studies were performed by using a total of 708 images of dresses, which were collected through direct imaging. Through discussion with experts, the collected data were classified into five categories; Modern trendy, Romantic, Easy casual, Ethnic, and Classical/Traditional. The data was analyzed by using cross tabulation and frequency analysis. Content analysis for each category was also conducted. As a consequence of this study, a significant difference between Beijing and Shenzhen were observed. As a city, which puts emphasis on practicality and modernity, Beijing showed a higher frequency of modern and trendy style than the other city. On the other hand, Shenzhen showed a higher frequency of romantic style and was distinguished as a city of femininity and decorative preference of fashion style. This study intends to contribute to the academic community of Chinese fashion and to help Korean clothing companies to be launched in Chinese market in the future.
A Study on the Perception of Korean Top Hat, the Gat, from the Late 19th to the Early 20th Century
Kim, Soon-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 6, 2014, Pages 176~191
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.6.176
This article focuses on the late 19th to early 20th century gat, the Korean top hat for men, to understand the diverse meanings behind the hat. During the late 19th to early 20th century, the Joseon Dynasty (1392~1910) was plunged into confusion and turmoil as it was nearing its end. It was a period of drastic changes in regards to philosophy and ideology. To that end, the hats of society mirrored such changing times, as well as the differences in the awareness of Joseon's internal subject entities and external observers. Based on the analyses of the relevant documents, this study takes a multi-faceted approach to the process in which traditional Korean hats, which were once a symbol of the Joseon civilization, became reduced to an outdated object, as well as observing the awareness and attitudes of the entities involved in such a pivotal process.