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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 64, Issue 8 - Dec 2014
Volume 64, Issue 7 - Nov 2014
Volume 64, Issue 6 - Sep 2014
Volume 64, Issue 5 - Aug 2014
Volume 64, Issue 4 - Jun 2014
Volume 64, Issue 3 - Apr 2014
Volume 64, Issue 2 - Feb 2014
Volume 64, Issue 1 - Jan 2014
Selecting the target year
Characteristics of Fashion Purchases and Clothes-wearing Tendencies of Women in their 30`s Using Online Shopping
Joo, Mi-Young ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 1~19
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.001
The purpose of this study is to do an in-depth examination of Korean women in their 30`s on the characteristics of their online fashion shopping, clothes-wearing, and presentation. In-depth interview and quantitative analysis were conducted as study methods. Results of this in-depth analysis showed that the factor with the most significant influence in their lifestyle was "childbirth." Childbirth was a major factor during fashion shopping and clothes-wearing. Also the results showed that the reason they used online shopping was for convenience, efficiency, rationality, pursuit of information, variety, and hedonism. In particular, women in their 30`s had a higher motivation for efficiency and rationality compared to those in their 20`s, and of those women, married working women showed the highest preference for fashion soho malls. Meanwhile, full-time homemakers, who pursued rationality, used open markets to search for fashion items based on price. Furthermore, the factors that women in their 30`s considered during online shopping were price, design, purpose or situation for wearing the clothing, respectively. Compared to the women in their 20`s, they emphasized recommendation, product properties, credibility, economy more than women in their 20`s. Factors such as marriage and childbirth were more influential than occupation. Meanwhile, the factors that women in their 30`s considered for wearing and presentation were time, place, and occasion(TPO), which all showed high importance in in-depth interview and quantitative analysis. Other factors were `suitable image to self` and `covering up body figure.`
The Goth Style Expressed on Costumes of Tim Burton`s Films
Jung, Eunyoung ; Lee, Younhee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 20~36
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.020
This research aims to identify and analyze the expression elements and features of Goth style observed in clothing of unique characters in movies directed by Tim Burton, and to build the database on diverse features movie costumes, so that such data can be used to develop new fashion design. The research-classified features of Goth style into romanticism overturns Satanism, grief, and sensuality. The results are as follow; First, Goth expressed romanticism by reminding the gloom and fear of medieval times through the image of clowns, medieval knights, werewolves and vampires. Second, The costumes in Tim Burton`s movies overthrew the rules in reality using flexible changes, ambiguity of gender, distorted human beings, half-man-half-beasts, and ghost images. Furthermore, the positive expression on characters in gloomy and fearful costumes showed the overturn of common idea and value system in a society. Third, Tim Burton created fear using the image of a live dead body, shape of a devil, shape of death. Also, accessories suddenly changed into arms in his movies. He expressed Satanism by positively describing satanic shapes and shapes meaning death. Next, characters in Tim Burton`s movies are mainly losers, aliens or outsiders. Sorrow, alienation and darkness inside them expressed the sadness through embodiment of mean animals in darkness, masks, veils and extreme black costumes. Finally, Sensuality was rarely shown in Tim Burton`s movies, but expressed in various ways including pursuit of new beauty in excessive exposure, skintight silhouette, suggestion on sexualized violence and frightfulness.
Analysis of Taste of Middle-aged Korean Men Based on Self-image and Fashion style
Kim, Hee-Yeon ; Kim, Young-In ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 37~54
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.037
The purpose of this study is to define the tastes of middle-aged Korean men by analyzing their characteristics, such as self-image, and fashion style. This study was carried out by using the Q methodology for survey research. The results of this study are as follows; First, the self-images of middle-aged men were classified into `comfortable, calm, neat, and gentle,` `realistic, active, sociable, and familiar,` `sensible, emotional, romantic, and rational,` `refined, emotional, luxurious, and sophisticated,` and `aggressive, sensible, realistic, and rational.` Second, by analyzing the congruity of clothing form, fashion accessory, and fashion color types, this study was classified into the following 10 fashion styles: `modern classic,` `sophisticated,` `town casual,` `traditional casual,` `comfortable,` `chic casual,` `contemporary,` `gentle classic,` `classic sporty,` and `soft classic.` Third, this study analyzed the self-images and fashion styles of the men, and produced the following personal tastes of middle-aged men: `success-oriented,` `ability possession,` `internal stability-oriented,` `freedom-oriented,` `self-satisfaction,` `individuality compromise,` `emotional release,` `stability-oriented,` `practicability-oriented,` and `youth effort` types. By combining those types with social dimensions, this study produced the following tastes of middle-aged men: `stabilized traditions,` `achievements with high sociality,` `youthful individuality,` `active self-realization,` and `realistic, logical pursuit.` The results of this study can be used as a meaningful data for developing the marketing strategy, which reflects the middle-aged men`s changed tastes.
A Study on the Morphological Feature of Baeja Excavated from the Tomb of Sim, Su-ryun(沈秀崙)
Lee, Young Min ; Cho, Woo Hyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 55~66
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.055
Baeja(背子), which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun(沈秀崙, 1534-1589), a civil official, has a distinctive pattern. Two rectangles are connected by button knots on both shoulders and below the armpits, and surround the front and back of the upper body. Also, the back is shorter than the front, while the center-front is not opened. It also has a round neckline without a collar. Jeojuji(楮注紙), which is a traditional Korean paper made from mulberry bark, is put between the outer shell and lining of this clothing as an interlining. The purpose of this study is to perform a morphological feature analysis of the Baeja to examine its characteristics and name, and clothes with similar features, attire relic, pictorial and ceramic materials as well as precedent studies were used in the analysis. The Baeja, which was excavated from the tomb of Sim, Su-ryun, has the same pattern as Yangdang(裲檔), which was worn in the ancient northern region and China. Its composition and the way it was worn are very simple. Also, the shorter back length can be used as evidence that it was worn as everyday outer clothing, and not in a ceremony. Jeojuji, used as an interlining, made it easy to sew and maintain attire pattern and played a role of maintaining warmth. Therefore, this Baeja is presumed to be an outer clothing simply worn in the everyday life for convenience and warmth. In regards to its morphological feature, it was most likely a Yangdang in Joseon Dynasty.
Exaggeration Shown in Contemporary Knit Fashion
Yoo, Jinhee ; Lee, Younhee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 67~82
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.067
This research aims to explicate how we reveal our identity and emphasize beauty in our passion for beauty. It also attempts to find out our sense of beauty in exaggeration of visual expressions. The purpose is to represent how the contemporary knit fashion is various and exaggerated in our modern fashion world, and also to give the direction of new knitwear designs through the visual analysis of exaggerated knit fashion. Literature research was done by studying reference books and magazines, leading papers and based on a dissertation thesis. This study collected 787 designer`s works published in the world`s big Four collections from the 2000 S/S to 2011 S/S, in 23 seasons during 12 years. In answer to 9 experts about the criteria of classification, 520 works were chosen and analyzed according to the standard of exaggerated knitwear. The result of the study is the followings: The type of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion was classified in three categories; Enlarge exaggeration, reduce exaggeration and transform exaggeration. As a sub-category, enlarge exaggeration was classified into three categories; Volume expansion and the expansion by the material, gauge and larger composition application expansion. Reduce exaggeration appeared as mini-reduction, skinny-reduction and transform exaggeration was respectively classified into deformation of the shape and patterns. The characteristics of exaggeration shown in contemporary knit fashion appeared as the new formative sense. In terms of fuller sense and surface, using various materials, gauge, changes in the composition represented challenges for textiles. The exaggerated contemporary knitwear expressed sex appeal using tight-fitting effect. Contemporary knit fashion simplified the design by taking advantage of the strong elastic attributes. It showed the beauty of women, expressed variability and limitless knit characteristics beyond the conventional thinking. In addition, it has been well represented as a form of freedom, amusement and diversity.
Survey on Actual Conditions of Nurses Uniforms
Lee, Mi Kyung ; Lee, Jeong Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 83~96
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.083
This study aims to analyze the design of current nurse uniforms, investigate the state of nurse uniforms, and uniform design preferences in order to ultimately develop functional nurse uniform, which satisfy their needs. First, observing photos of nurses` campaign on wearing a badge showed that opening of top uniform almost always incorporated buttons, and sleeves were mostly set-in half sleeves while collars tended to be mandarin collars. The colors were mostly white for both top and bottom, while the top showed a bit more variety in colors. White tops often incorporated hospital logos on them. Second, in terms of the nurse uniform distribution, each nurse is given one top and one bottom per year. In addition, either a cardigan or a jacket on top of the regular summer uniform constitutes the winter uniform, whereas the availability of cardigans differed by hospitals. Third, the main source of contamination of uniforms was blood, and the level of satisfaction was all low in terms of the design, function, and material of the uniform, calling for the enhancement and development of new uniforms. Design preferences were two-piece with pants, color preferences were blue and pink, and pattern preferences were hospital logo, stripes, and check patterns in the listed order of preference. Complaints were usually made on the contamination of front pocket of the top, lack of sufficient pockets for storage, and tightness of the sleeves. Some preferences on finishing were the princess seams, mandarin collar, set-in half sleeves, and button closing on top. The preferred belt was a mixed form of straight-lined belt and rubber belt, and straight lined hem and spandex blended fabrics were favored for the clothing.
Analysis and Design Development of Animal Expression Methods Applied in Kids` Wear
Kim, Chanju ; Ro, Mikyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 97~110
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.097
Animals, as a part of nature, have much influence on children`s emotional development and are one of children`s favorite subjects of design. This study analyzes the differences in animal expression methods and types of animals, in relation to gender and item based on a collection of children`s clothing and accessories that use animal as their theme. The collection consists of 148 clothing and 75 accessories (total of 223 items), which were collected from on-line shopping sites for children`s clothes. Analysis results showed the following observations. Animal expression was categorized into four methods: emblem, illustration, character, and pattern.(The most common method was character, followed by pattern, illustration, and emblem. In relation to gender and clothing item, animal expression methods varied widely:(character was the most popular for) boys` t-shirts and accessories, while girls` bottoms and dresses. As for (animal) types, Mammalia was the most common, followed by birds and insects. Dogs and puppies were popular both genders.(However, differences in preferences existed as) boys liked big and wild animals such as bears, tigers, and foxes, while girls liked small and cute animals such as rabbits, cats, owls, and butterflies. Based on these results, six types of animals (rabbits, elephants, large-beaked bird Toco Toucans, fish, penguins, and bees) were selected as themes for kids` vest designs and, among them, three designs were made.
Evaluation of the Image of Korean·Chinese Airline Crew`s Uniforms
Shao, Chiqian ; Lee, Mi Suk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 111~123
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.111
The purpose of this research is to prepare basic data necessary to develop uniform design by examining the uniforms of Korean and Chinese airline crew. Advanced research, various literature materials related to uniform, as well as a survey on the images portrayed by the different uniforms of the airlines were used as research method, and this was used to investigate its functions and components. The survey was conducted in Incheon International Airport and Gwangju airport from September 1st to 30th of 2013, - targeting 350 people consisting of Koreans, Chinese, and other nationalities who have the experience of using Korean and Chinese aircraft. The research findings are summarized as follows. First, the images of the uniforms were classified into 5 elements: attractiveness, activity, noticeability, femininity, and traditionality. The analysis showed that Korean uniforms, except for Jin Air, received high marks overall, while the Chinese uniforms received lower marks compared to their Korean counterparts. Second, the results were analyzed based on the nationality of the respondents. In regards to Korean airline crews, attractiveness, activity, noticeability, femininity, and traditionality showed statistical significance with Korean respondents, while the significance was seen in attractiveness, activity, femininity, and traditionality for the Chinese respondents. Femininity was the only feature with any significance for the third nation respondents. On the other hand, with regard to Chinese airline crew`s uniform, Korean respondents showed statistical significance in the following features: attractiveness and traditionality, while the Chinese and the third nation respondents did not show any statistical significance in any of the elements.
A Comparative Study on Costume design of Mask Play -Focusing on Korean Mask Play and Italian `Commedia dell`arte`-
Im, Jeong Mi ; Soh, Hwang Oak ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 124~137
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.124
The purpose of this study is to produce an essential guideline for making costumes for traditional Korean mask plays by doing a comparative analysis between traditional Korean mask plays and Italian `Commedia dell`arte`. The results of this study are as follow. The costumes of Korea`s mask plays were mainly used to show difference in social status. Analysis showed that costume features, such as color, fabric, and silhouette, were not important to the traits of the character. On the other hand, the costumes in the Italian `Commedia dell`arte` were used to express the characters` traits. The colors, fabric and silhouettes were exaggerated compared to everyday wear. This enhanced the looks of the character, and it kept on developing with the demands of the culture consumer. This study was performed to support further development and success of traditional Korean mask plays.
A Study on Fashion Design for Up-cycled Waste Resources
Park, Ju Hee ; Kim, Youn Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 138~154
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.138
The purpose of this study was to propose up-cycling fashion designs, based on guidelines derived from up-cycling fashion brand products and their required elements of the design. The study thus categorized required elements into environment, significance, economy, function, design, and material, then extracted a set of design guidelines. The guidelines for waste resource-based up-cycling fashion design include the followings: First, authenticity, taking mutual environmental relations into account. Second, rarity of products beyond the domain of standardized ready-made goods thanks to manual operation. Third, storytelling, reflecting the consumer history. Fourth, sustainability to signify the circulation of matters. Fifth, experimental characteristic to fulfill creative innovation. Sixth, changeability through interactions with wearers. The investigator decided design concepts based on them and created up-cycling design works with waste plastic bags, shirts, stockings, neckties, outdoor mats, and backpacks in a variety of formative expressive techniques.
The Dressed Female Body as an Object for `Gaze` in Korean Modern Figure Paintings
Park, Seon-Ji ; Yim, Eun-Hyuk ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 155~163
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.155
This study is designed to examine how the female body, as shown in Korean modern figure paintings, is expressed as an object for one`s gaze and the meaning behind it. The study analyzed the entries displayed during the Joseon Arts Exhibitions from 1922 to 1944, for a total of 23 times. The exhibition entries are considered to be the representative sources in regards to the history of Korean modern arts. This study examined the artistic works, which portrayed the female body as an object for gaze. Literature research was conducted to look into the general background of modern society in Korea and the significance of the body as an object for gaze, and empirical study was also performed to analyze the female body in modern figure paintings. This research reveals how the bodies of modern Korean women were seen under the structure of power. It is believed that the process of criticizing and complementing the bodies of Korean women, which was distorted by Japan, may lead to an objective analysis of the aesthetic consciousness of the Korean female bodies.
A Study on the Wearing Practice of the White Costumes during King Jeongjo`s Reign
Choi, Ji-Hee ; Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 164~178
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.164
Historically, white clothes have been passed down through the generations as the symbol of the Korean people. This study was motivated after coming across a text written by Lee Ok(李鈺, 1760~1815), a writer during the Joseon dynasty. Lee wrote that "Koreans mostly wear blue clothes." This raised questions regarding the wearing practice of the white clothes at the time of King Jeongjo`s reign(1776~1800), and led to further studies on the matter. The results show that discussions were held about changing the color of the government official`s changui(氅衣) from white to blue. An order was also given replacing white boots with black boots. Therefore, it is supposed that blue clothes phenomenon was influenced from the blue changui policy. However, this change was temporary as later generations wore preferred white with the exception being women`s skirts. Women preferred blue skirts to white skirts for a long period. Detailed analysis of the white changui showed that people were burdened by high dyeing costs, and this was a big factor as studies indicated a large gap in wealth disparity. In a society that put funeral and ancestral rites as one of its priorities, the white clothes could have been favored due to its multi-functional use. Also, the noblemen who set importance on Gija(箕子) Joseon connected white clothes custom to Gija. This connotes that the reason for wearing white clothes differed depending on the class. And as white clothes were widely worn, people developed different ways of wearing the clothes for aesthetic purposes.
The Study on Symbolic Color and Costume of The Seven Days Buddha in Thailand
Soh, Hwang Oak ; Kim, Da Min ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 64, issue 8, 2014, Pages 179~190
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2014.64.8.179
In traditional costume, colors have been used to express the religion, society, culture, custom, and other aspects of a country. This is mainly due to color being the most conspicuous visual factor of a costume. In Thailand, there is a symbolic color for each day of the week, and the purpose of this study is to contribute to deeper understanding of the Thailand culture in regards to color and its costumes. The study method is as follows: literatures and photos were researched for social and religious background of the seven days Buddha history, which was the source of the color a day culture, symbols and significance of each Buddha were studied and precedent studies were reviewed. The study attempted to investigate the effect of the symbolic color on costumes as it passed down from generations. Originally, the symbolic colors of seven days Buddha in Thailand was a religious component that was exclusive to the upper class. However, it has expanded to the lower classes today. Currently, it obtains an aspect of health and wealth gospel for oneself or others as well as being used to express individual personality because people regard certain color as their symbolic color.