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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 65, Issue 8 - Dec 2015
Volume 65, Issue 7 - Nov 2015
Volume 65, Issue 6 - Sep 2015
Volume 65, Issue 5 - Aug 2015
Volume 65, Issue 4 - Jun 2015
Volume 65, Issue 3 - Apr 2015
Volume 65, Issue 2 - Feb 2015
Volume 65, Issue 1 - Jan 2015
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Characters' Costumes in the Disney's Animations
Lee, Ah Lam ; Chun, Jae Hoon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 1~16
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.001
This study aims to provide a new perspective on Disney's animations, by examining how Disney systematized and transformed his own ways of cognitive systems of producing meaning through the costumes of his characters. For this purpose, 10 Disney animations of which the main characters were costume-wearing humans were selected and analyzed. First, the characters' costumes of the passive female heroines were much different from those of the active female heroines while the costumes of male heroes did not have any common characteristics. Second, the characters' costumes according to the settings of the animations had different aspects: the Western-Europe-based animations exhibited the appropriate costumes of the set times, but the non-Western-Europe-based animations exhibited the imaginative costumes of Disney rather than the appropriate costumes of the actual countries. Third, the costumes played the role of expressing the situations of the animations, and had their own repetitive conventions in each animation. Changes in the situations or the upward mobility of the status could be found easily through the costumes, but such distinctiveness became less visible in the later animations. Disney displayed his own distinctive formula of visual aesthetics through the characters' costumes. But it is recommended that we should have the critical views on the cultural messages of Disney's to prevent fixed ideas or cultural prejudices.
A Study of Impression Formation According to Men's Accessories Wearing and Hairstyle
Song, Won-Young ; Lee, Myoung-Hee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 17~32
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.017
This study aims to examine the differences in impression formation according to the accessories and hairstyles worn by men, and to investigate the relation between men's appearance and occupation inferences. The subjects were 320 female university students residing in the Seoul metropolitan area. First, wearing eyeglasses gave an impression of more intelligent image and less mild image. It was evaluated that the men wearing neckties have a high dimension of intelligence, and men wearing no necktie have a high dimension of progressiveness. Men with classic hairstyles had a high dimension of intelligence, while men with sports hairstyles had a high dimension of progressiveness, conspicuousness, and attractiveness. Second, metal rims on glasses had a high dimension of empowerment and attractiveness when a red necktie was worn, while horn-rimmed glasses with no necktie had a high dimension of conspicuousness and progressiveness. The men with sports hairstyles, with no eyeglasses had the highest dimension of progressiveness when a red necktie was worn. Third, it was evaluated that wearing a cloche hat or baseball cap had a low dimension of empowerment, while wearing a necklace had a high dimension of empowerment, conspicuousness, and progressiveness. Fourth, the men who wore a suit, eyeglasses, and a necktie with a classic hairstyle were deduced to be professionals, with high-ranking or white-collar jobs. It was found that when men wore a suit with a sports hairstyle, no eyeglasses, and no ties, they were inferred to be engaged in a service job. The baseball caps were strongly associated with technical or simple labor job.
A Study on Slow Fashion Related to Convergence Design
Lee, Dal A ; Ahn, In-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 33~47
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.033
The purpose of this study is to understand the ideas of characteristic of convergence design related to slow fashion design. Convergence design in digital stage can be defined as a social phenomenon which different function of product move toward one direction for greater efficiency. Slow fashion is based on the Slow Movement. (This is a movement with similar principles to the Slow Food Movement, as it promotes an alternative mass production, such as fast fashion.) The aims of this research are to study slow fashion that has appeared in the fashion industry through various approaches for convergence designs, and to find the possibility of use for slow fashion. The research method consisted of carrying out case studies and analyzing literatures and proceeding cases. The characteristics of convergence designs are classified into technical convergence, emotion-oriented convergence and complex convergence. Technical convergence has an effect on slow fashion as a multi-functional design. Second, emotion-oriented convergence affects social-cultural design. Slow fashion related to a complex convergence design reveals emotion-oriented deign. Slow fashion is related to convergence design is to expect contribute to provide a good source for the future fashion industry and fashion market.
A Study on the Design Characteries of Chi-pao Brand in China
Ying, Liu ; Soh, Hwang Oak ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 48~61
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.048
Chi-pao is a kind of traditional clothes; it is regarded as a national costume, playing an irreplaceable role in the Chinese history. As China developed, the strict requirements on dresses did as well. History is a double-sided mirror,; we can know the past and we can find the direction ifor future development. when it comes to reform and openness, China imports foreign culture and exports domestic culture as well. This essay uses the history of Chi-pao as the background, consults the reference to analyse the brand of Chinese domestic Chi-pao characteristics, summarize the fashionable trend. Recently, Chi-pao is worn in many kinds of important occasions such as foreign affairs, public performances and so on. The purpose of this essay is to analyze the current situation of Chi-pao, make Chi-pao more international, and show the Chinese history to the world.
The Study on NCS Development for the Production of Hanbok
Suh, Seunghee ; Kim, Jung-Sook ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 62~74
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.062
The purpose of this research is to analyse the process of development and verification of 'National Competency Standards' of Hanbok production, which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. As the result of this research, the definition of the duty in Hanbok production is 'to conduct a series of step-by-step processes of planning and developing fabric and design, then making pattern, cutting fabric and sewing.' The competency unit for Hanbok production is analyzed in 10 categories: analysis of market trends, design plan, production and manipulation of fabric, production process plan, sample making, pattern making, cutting out, sewing, finishing sewing, inspection of the product quality. Competency unit elements of each competency unit are as follows. 1) analysis of market trends: to research market trend resources, to analyse consumers' buying trend, to analyse industry changes, 2) design plan: to develop design, to plan fabrication, to draw flats, 3) production and manipulation of fabric: to develop fabric planning, to prepare fabric manipulation, to conduct fabric manipulation, 4) production process plan: to grasp design, to plan sewing method, to prepare a specification sheet, 5) sample making: to make a sample pattern, to cut sample fabrics, to sew sample, to finish sample making, 6) pattern making: to measure body, to make production pattern, to adjust production pattern, 7) cutting out: to care fabrics, to lay out patterns, to cut out fabrics, 8) sewing: to sew a garment, to sew a lining, to attach a lining, 9) finishing sewing: to neaten edges, to attach trims, to press to finish, 10) inspection of the product quality: to confirm correspondence with the specification sheet, to inspect appearance.
A Study on Jongi-sim used in the Costumes of Joseon Dynasty
Oh, Suk-Kyeong ; Hong, Na-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 75~91
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.075
This study is about Jongi-sim(Paper used for interlining) used in costumes of the Joseon Dynasty. Terms related to Jongi-sim include 'Anji(按紙)', 'Soh(槊)' and 'Gyeok(隔)'. Anji is a term that refers to Jongi-sim used on padded clothes. Soh refers to stiff and thick paper inserted between fabrics. Gyeok is predicted to be a term that refers to the use of paper as both interlining and lining. Chojuji(草注紙) was used for Jongi-sim in Cheolik, Aekjueum, Baji and Dae among kings and crown princes' ceremonial costumes. Chojuji and Jeojuji(楮注紙) were used in women's royal costumes such as Jeogori, Hosu and Chima. Doryeonji(搗鍊紙) was used in Dae and Yangyieom. Gongsangji(供上紙) was used for the interlining or lining in Yangyieom. Excavated costumes that used Jongi-sim for the entire clothes are Cheolik and Jangjeogori. Jongi-sim placed in Git(collar) was sometimes placed together with cotton. Geodeulji of Jangot used paper in invisible parts as to replace fabric by paper. Danryeong and Dapho attached Jongi-sim to Mu, and stiff paper was inserted.
A Study on Modern Applicability of Traditional Colored Thread Quilting Technique
Lee, Mi Seok ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 92~104
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.092
Colored thread quilting is sewed up padded with Han-Ji (한지, korean paper) string using colored thread. This showed up geometric pattern with repeated line of straight, diagonal, curve. According to geometric pattern, Colored thread quilting showed visual effects. The purpose of this study is to present manufacturing techniques, kinds, use, shape of traditional colored thread quilting. furthermore, This study has produced fashion items that can be used in modern life by using techniques of colored thread quilting. According to the fashion items, It present succession and utilization of techniques of colored thread quilting. This study was conducted in the following manner First, It studied traditional colored thread quilting techniques through the documents consideration, previous researches and by surveying antiquity in the museum. 2nd, It tried to make a reproduction about techniques of traditional colored thread quilting. 3rd, This study has selected and developed item and design of fashion items that can be used pragmatically in modern life by using techniques of colored thread quilting. And Fashion items that have been produced in this study is a total 10 kinds that was composed of Vest 4ea, Pendant & Brooch 6ea. Colored thread quilting is a unique technique of thread quilting that combines powerful practicality with decorativeness only in korea. These technique hope that it can developed more variety of items in modern life.
A Study on Design Identity of Fashion House - Focused on Saint Laurent House -
Hwang, Hyerim ; Park, Eun Kyung ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 105~124
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.105
This research was started to study how the design identity of an overseas fashion house was formed, changed and connected. For the purpose of the study, Saint Laurent House was selected as the subject of the study, because it began as a couture house and launched the
for the first time among the designer brands, and also contributed to the development of modern women's fashion. Literature survey on related books and papers was performed to study the Saint Laurent House. Then, fashion collection photos of the house from 1962 SS to 2014 SS were collected to analyze and compare the features of the designs. The photos were collected from related books, fashion magazines and internet sites. The results are as follows: The features of Yves Saint Laurent's early designs were contemporarily sensational with their couture tradition. His representative designs including Le Smoking, Pea Coat, Loose Fit Blouse, Safari Look, Jumpsuit, Ethnic Look and Art Look became the signature looks of the Saint Laurent House. His designs expressed the liberation of sex, multi-cultural sensitivity and the fusion of art and fashion. His successor, chief designer Tom Ford designed with strong sensitivity of his own. He dealt with Yves Saint Laurent's design themes and signature looks in sensual as well as trendy and sophisticated way. Stefano Pilati showed the Parisienne chic and elegance. He re-made the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent with his own design style using new materials or cutting technique. Hedi Slimane reinterpreted the signature looks of the house with his rock' n roll mood for young, modern women while reflecting the spirit of Yves Saint Laurent's early stage. In conclusion, the design identity of Saint Laurent House is not just a fixed one. By the subsequent chief designers, the signature items and design spirit of Yves Saint Laurent have been succeeded, reintroduced or changed to be trendy and to reflect the designers' design sensitivity. All of these make and maintain the design identity of the fashion house.
Study of 'Education-Training-Certificate of Qualification' Design for the Fashion Accessories Production Based on the National Competency Standards
Suh, Seunghee ; Lee, Shin-Young ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 125~143
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.125
This study is to propose an 'education-training-certificate of qualification' design of fashion accessories production, which can be applied to education in universities and individuals. It is based on the National Competency Standards (NCS), which was developed through the '2013 National Competency Standards Development Project' for the fashion accessories production. FGI (Focus Group Interviews), which is a research methodology, is carried out on target groups of educational experts and specialists in the field of fashion accessories production. Through this, five courses were suggested; first, 'fashion accessories design' course was proposed for the education and training of 'design development' and 'development of raw materials'. Secondly, 'fashion product production' course was proposed for the education and training of 'production of samples'. Thirdly, 'fashion product manufacture and planning' course was proposed for the competency element units: 'calculation of cost', 'determination of mass production model and price', 'planning of the main manufacturing process' and 'ordering of raw materials'. Lastly, 'mass production of fashion products' course and the 'field practice of fashion product manufacture' course were proposed for the competency element units: 'planning for mass production', 'preparation for mass production', 'mass production' and 'inspection of completed products'. In addition, a new certificate of 'technician of fashion accessory production' was proposed in order to test qualified skills for the fashion accessories production. The test is composed of a written examination of short-answer questions, technical drawing and production.
Textile Design for Baby using the myth of Buldoje
Kim, Hyun-Mi ; Jang, Ae-Ran ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 144~156
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.144
This research aims to develop textile patterns using mythical motives based on Buldoje in the Jeju myth. this textile design is not only decoration effect by filling the space, but also plays the original role of a pattern by expressing its symbolic meaning. The research methods are as follows: 1) Using integral analysis on materials related to the myth of Jeju and Gime used in Buldoje Gut, where Halmangbonpuli story is performed to set formative elements for textile design and their meanings; 2) Designing motive by composing formative elements; 3) Coloring properly; and 4) Layout motives. Adobe CS5 (Photoshop, Illustrator) and TexPro, a design CAD program, were used for textile design. Motives were combined in a various ways. Two-directional, four-directional, set, rotating, toss layout techniques, which are frequently used in apparel design and able to reduce cloth use, were used in developing patterns. Coloring methods including tone-in-tone and Faux camaieu were used to deliver coherence and soft effects. Developed textile design symbolizes the desire for the conception of a child, birth, and health, so it is made on baby clothes. In doing so, the plan for development of a fashion-cultural product applying Jeju myth symbol is suggested.
The Analysis on the Torso Type Dress Form Developed Through the 3-D Virtual Body Modeling of the Korean Female Fashion Models
Park, Gin Ah ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 2, 2015, Pages 157~175
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.2.157
The study was aimed to develop a torso-type dress form representing body features of the female fashion models in Korea. To fulfill this purpose, 5 female fashion models aged between 20 and 26 having the average body measurements of professional fashion models in Korea were selected and their 3-D whole body scanned data were analysed. The 3-D whole body scanning method enabled to generate a virtual female fashion model within the CAD system by measuring the subjects' body shapes and sizes. In addition, the virtual model's body data led the development of a standard female fashion model dress form for the efficient fashion show preparation. In order to manufacture the real dress form for female fashion models, 3-D printing technology was adopted. The consequent results are as follows: (1) the body measurements (unit: cm) of the developed dress form were: biacromion length, 36.0, bust point to bust point, 16.6, front/back interscye lengths, 32.0/33.0, neck point to breast point, 26.0, neck point to breast point to waist line, 41.5, waist front/back lengths, 34.5/38.5, waist to hip length, 24.0, bust circumference, 85.0, underbust circumference, 75.0, waist circumference, 65.0, hip circumference, 92.0. (2) the body measurements differences between the developed and existing dress forms were highlighted with the body measurements of neck point to breast point and waist to hip length. (3) the body shape features of the developed dress form showed that bust, shoulder blade, shoulder slope, abdomen and back waist line to hip line parts were more realistically manufactured.