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REFERENCE LINKING PLATFORM OF KOREA S&T JOURNALS
> Journal Vol & Issue
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
Journal Basic Information
Journal DOI :
The Korea Society of Costume
Editor in Chief :
Volume & Issues
Volume 65, Issue 8 - Dec 2015
Volume 65, Issue 7 - Nov 2015
Volume 65, Issue 6 - Sep 2015
Volume 65, Issue 5 - Aug 2015
Volume 65, Issue 4 - Jun 2015
Volume 65, Issue 3 - Apr 2015
Volume 65, Issue 2 - Feb 2015
Volume 65, Issue 1 - Jan 2015
Selecting the target year
A Study on the Characteristics of Maximalism in Men's wear
Kim, Ji Hye ; Yoo, Youngsun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 1~13
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.001
The purpose of this study is to make a contribution to men's fashion by analyzing changes related to excessive and decorative expressions of latest men's wear design in the viewpoint of Maximalism, and using the results to develop a new fashion style. Results of the study are as follows: The characteristics of Maximalism in men's wear collection in the last 5 years can be classified as 'Fusion Maximalism, 'Decorative Maximalism', 'Exaggerative Maximalism', 'Humorous Maximalism', and 'Duplicative Maximalism'. The characteristics of each type of Maximalism can be summarized as follows: First, Fusion Maximalism creates new men's fashion style by fusing designs from different cultures in clothing items as well as dismantling gender boundaries in clothing design, and by having designs which transcends time and space. Second, Decorative Maximalism expresses ambiguous decadence by implementing feminine decoration that applies handicraft technique, as well as exaggeratedly using details and trimmings of contrasting images, and applying women's clothing items. Third, Exaggerative Maximalism represents extreme avant-garde that changes the idea of fashion design by changing the styling or the exaggerated silhouette. Fourth, Humorous Maximalism expresses not only the creation of new men's fashion look, but also expresses humanism with exaggerative enjoyment and pleasant ideas. Fifth, Duplicative Maximalism expresses creative design by implementing vivid images of different period and culture, and reproducing successful images of the past into modern fashion.
An Observation on Dries Van Noten's Collections (1) - Focus on Women's Collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W -
Park, Shinmi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 14~34
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.014
The aim of this paper is to analyze the relationship between the inspirations and designs of Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W. From the research purpose the following questions arise: how are the brands of Dries Van Noten developed and what are the important features? What are 'the roots of inspiration' for Dries Van Noten's women's collections from 1994 S/S to 2014 F/W, and what are the aesthetic criterions of Noten's works? How are the roots of inspiration categorized, what are the features of each category, and how do these roots of inspiration influence the Noten's designs? The paper is a practical reference of how ideas turn to practical works and what is the relationship between inspiration and design. Researchers utilized a qualitative research method to provide a systematic review of the previous studies. To sum it up, roots of inspiration of Dries Van Noten's women's collections can be classified into seven categories: 'ethnic', 'trend & style', 'flowers', 'artists', 'interpretation', 'fabric & pattern' and 'multiple contents'. Through the roots of inspiration, sensibility of Belgium, inquiry of ethnic & oriental, Artists, England, longing of street fashion, 1920's & 1950's trend & style of French high fashion, romanticism, atmosphere of medieval, gypsy, punk and hippie are extracted and applied to the designs through cross impact. The identities of Dries Van Noten's women's collections are fusion and harmony of cross culture and diversity.
A Comparative Study of Satisfaction of Protective Clothing for Riot Policemen and Policewomen
Kim, JiHyeon ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 35~50
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.035
Protective clothing for riot policemen is a special clothing with a purpose of protecting body when putting down a riot. It is a protective clothing for Korean policemen and women in conducting their official duties. It should bee able to safely protect a person wearing it from external threats and symbolically represent the authority of police in management of riots or demonstrations. Functions required for protective clothing for policemen are safety, activity, body fitness in terms of functionality and comfort, convenience, design in terms of wearability. This study investigated and analyzed status of wear and degree of satisfaction on 6 functions of protective clothing of riot policemen, which are to be used as basic data for future development of protective clothing for riot policewomen. The study result shows that men have higher satisfaction in all functions of protective clothing, which indicates a need for development of protective clothing for riot policewomen. As for men's satisfaction rate, it was in order of comfort < convenience < activity < safety < body fitness < design, suggesting a need for improvement in comfort. As for women's satisfaction rate, it was activity < comfort < convenience < body fitness < design < safety, requesting an improvement in fit for active movements.
Study of Fashion Design Applying Underwear Forms in Joseon Dynasty Period - Focused on Natural Dyeing (Indigo (Jjok) and Tannin) -
Lee, Eun Ja ; Lee, Mi Seok ; Kim, Chung Ho ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 51~61
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.051
This study examines the types and forms of underwear worn during the Joseon Dynasty period, and the purpose of this study is to apply the Joseon underwear design elements into designs of modern clothes, and make clothes that have practical use. In addition, it examines natural dyeing in the production of works, using a dye that contains tannin to increase color fastness. This study, first, looked into the types of female underwear during the late-Joseon Dynasty period through literature research and literature study. Second, the study chose artificial silk material (rayon), which was applied with dye containing tannin, and then with indigo (Jjok) and a different dye. Also, the study tested color fastness by washing the material, and rubbing fastness was tested if the material was either dyed with indigo. if it was dyed first with dye stuff containing tannin, and then with indigo dyeing color. Third, using the underwear types in the Joseon Dynasty period, the study developed and produced a dress, a skirt and pants that could be worn in modern life on a daily basis by applying Mujigi-chima (underwearskirt), Dan-sokgot (slip), Salchang-gojaengi (loosedrawers) and Sok-baji (bloomers) forms. Dresses applying underwear skirt using naturally-dyed artificial silk, dresses applying Salchang-gojaengi, dresses applying Dan-sokgot, skirt without a crotch designed in the form of pant swith an open crotch, and pant skirt with a crotch-applying pants with an open crotch were produced. In the future, hopefully, various studies of collaborations of Korean traditional clothing, and natural dyeing will continue to kee) the tradition alive.
Design Development of Shirts in Outdoor-Wear for New Senior Women's Using 3D Simulation Software - CLO 3D -
Ji, Kyoungha ; Choi, Yoonmi ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 62~73
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.062
The aim of this research is to propose the final shirt design modified for new senior women that fulfills their emotional and physical needs. The modifications were based on the results of in-depth interviews and literature search, and the study was conducted in order to understand the desires and preferences of senior women, as consumption of outdoor-wear by the group continues to increase. To develop the design of outdoor-wear that satisfies the physical and emotional qualities and preference of the new senior women, six different designs with lines, combined materials, as well as materials that were layered, pleated and draped were proposed using virtual-dressing simulation software. Then, the modified designs were derived from the six original designs by reflecting the opinions collected in the in-depth interviews with eleven women in their 50s. The responses in the interviewed showed a preference for lines, pleats and layers, as these features made the clothes look trendy, gave it a slender-look, and improved the body shape of the women. As the color is the critical factor for outdoor-wear, there was an overwhelming preference for primary colors by the women, which was in contrast to their color preference in general clothes. A sleeve design modification was proposed to convert the half-sleeves to 3/4-long sleeves in order to account for changes in body temperature at menopause, and to satisfy the aesthetic needs for covering wrinkles. Research of new senior outdoor-wear designs will help segment and differentiate strategies for the increasingly fierce competing outdoor market, as well as l provide directions in the design creation process using the simulation of 3D virtual model.
Qualitative Study on the Response of Consumers Experiencing Products' Being Sold Out on the Internet Shopping Malls
Kim, Joo Hyun ; Lee, Jin Hwa ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 74~87
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.074
It is common for popular products to sell out, and be out of stock. The purpose of this study is to examine the responses of consumers who have experiences of shopping online, and finding their desired products unavailable from being sold out. In order to carry out the study, in-depth interviews were conducted with ten recruits who were recruited from the Internet community, Soul Dresser, which is part of the Korean web portal, Daum. First, the cognitive reaction of the interviewees showed both positive and negative responses when they found out that their desired product was sold out. However, in the case of emotional reaction, all of them showed negative reactions. Observations showed that consumers researched and found similar products including price when they realized that their desired products were not going to be re-stocked. And in cases of similar products not being available, the consumers looked to buy other types of products such as bags, shoes, and other accessories.
A Study on the Utilization of Illustration for the Identity Design in Fashion Brand
Beak, Jeong Hyun ; Kan, Moon Ja ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 88~102
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.088
The purpose of this study is to investigate the examples of using illustration as a strategic factor of composing brand cultures and as a factor for brand identity design. Through analyzing the external characteristics and the internal characteristics of illustration, this study will give suggestions on ways to apply the examples to real design. Illustration in external characteristics is investigated as a case of applying it directly to fashion design and to fashion marketing. Most of the fashion items were printed or weaved and most of the bags, shoes, and accessories were printed on the cover, attached as a patch, and expressed three-dimensionally. Illustration in internal characteristics is investigated as fixing and expansion of brand image, improving artistic and emotional value of brand, vitalization of masstige items, and cultural support and expression of social responsibility. The three themes used to develop the illustrations of "Hello ZIBI", which was used in this study, were "Graphic", "Forest" and "Flower", and these were based on modified brand symbol. Casual brands grafted fashion item designs onto T-shirts, bags, hats, and scarves. Marketing items were designed as shopping bags that could reflect brand image, as well as other items, such as key holders, mug cups, and tumblers, with designs that targeted specific age groups.
Improving the Development of Korean Fashion Illustrations Textbooks
Kim, Mihyun ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 103~112
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.103
This study examines the fashion illustrations textbooks that have been published in the domestic market, and identifies its characteristics and problems in regards to its use in developing creative students. The purpose of the study is to propose ways to improve the development of the fashion illustration textbooks. The research method of this study are as follows: First, the teaching materials on fashion illustration in Korea were researched to examine the current state of publication. Second, its contents were analyzed to identify its characteristics. Third, an improvement plan of educational materials on fashion illustration in Korea were proposed. As for the scope of study, 18 volumes of fashion illustration teaching materials published in Korea during 2004-2014 were targeted. It should be noted that translated publications, digital fashion illustration materials and teaching materials for specialized and professional organizations were excluded. Conclusions of this study are as follows: First, examination of the textbooks revealed that additional content is needed regarding theoretical understanding of fashion illustration, as well as illustrations of men and children, as there was an insufficient amount of those topics. Second, the contents on the illustration application using current trends were lacking in the unit on illustration application. Accordingly, it is necessary to develop contents that reflect these trends. Lastly, the textbooks should be packaged with compact discs CDs containing video clips to assist students to get a better grasp of the material. The result of this study can be used to develop new teaching materials on fashion illustration, and be utilized as basic information in the curriculum design of fashion illustration.
The Boutonniere Design in Men's Fashion
Kim, JungHee ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 113~125
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.113
The purpose of this paper is to study the
, a floral decoration, history of
, a floral decoration, with a focus on its aesthetics, its practical use and its traditional meaning. After the examination of its history, the paper, recreated the proceeds by taking into consideration both the contemporary men's fashion, as well as the
designs of the past. The three factors of contemporary
design, in brief, are its historical meaning, the visual aesthetics and the wearability. In this paper, the research and design steps are as followed below. First, the paper examined the history of men's fashion leading up to the twenty-first century in order to get a deeper understanding of the history of
. Second, the paper attempted to find the most suitable fabric materials and flowers for the
, in order to produce diverse
that can be worn in any season and occasion. As for the fabrics that can be used to make the
, organza can be used for the S/S season, and wool, tweed and suede can be used for the F/W season. The major characteristics that differentiate the kinds of
are the "Carnation" and the "Rose of Sharon". The 'Rose of Sharon'
as the symbol of our nation possesses an intricate meaning and practical function, so that this
is used as an alternative badge of the national assembly and other social-national institutions and their members. This idea expands into other social and individual features that the
is a differentiated fashion item that provides other personal styles and expresses individuality.
Performance Costumes and Stage Direction Characteristics Shown in the Nouvelle Danse Work - Focused on the Philippe Decouflé's choreography work and costume design of Philippe Guillotel -
Kim, Hyang-ja ; Kim, Young-sam ;
Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, volume 65, issue 5, 2015, Pages 126~141
DOI : 10.7233/jksc.2015.65.5.126
The purpose of this study is to examine the works of choreographer Philippe
and the performance costumes designer Philippe Guillotel, and identify the intrinsic values shown in the formative characteristics in their works. And it proposes a vision and a direction for the development and performance of modern fashion phenomenon of media convergence performing arts complex. The results were as follows. First, the performance characteristics shown in Philippe
's art pattern applies dynamic improvisation, decategorization reflected in the media interactivity, time and space of a variable scalability, complex artistic genres and transcends cultural boundaries. Second, the characteristics of the performance costume can be described as a co-existence between dynamics of aesthetic layers, 'Media body' represented by the interaction of the compounds with the technology, and integrated variable expandability. And aesthetic values inherent in the performance costumes are summarized as abstraction, playfulness, reproducibility, and theatricality. Modern fashion performance and limited production of the center 'costumes' in the fashion images can be used in diverse ways, and innovative marketing has gone through a change in image production. Metaphysical text of the advanced performance genre can be presented in a new perspective to fashion derivatives 'Media body'. And the aesthetics of popular culture kitsch, the grotesque, and surrealism in theater will produce creative stage direction.